Big fan of the Italian Riviera here. Plenty of hills and great food.

Okay, great, thanks so much. I've booked three nights at Cenobio dei Dogi, which should give me 2 1/2 days. Half-day for chilling in Camogli, a day for SML and perhaps some hiking, a day for Genoa unless I decide that I'm enjoying relaxing more than I usually do. I was last in the Cinque Terre May 18 years ago and the villages and trails were crowded then, so I probably won't revisit.

Now to build the exhausting parts around the relaxing portion.

Really hope you enjoy Camogli and the Dei Doge as much as we have over the years. A combination of luxury by the water and the grit and fun of a real fishing village. I'll search for and send recs for some of my favorite restaurants when I get time later.

Some tips from our August 2017 trip to Camogli.

Look for the new municipal elevator just outside the Dei Doge parking lot to take you to the upper part of town where the train station is without needing to do a long walk.

Chiavari makes a nice day trip by train, perhaps even better than SML. Beautiful arcaded streets, gardens and tall buildings and a nice market square. Do not, however, recommend Sestri Levante further down coast. but do recommend Rappalo and its beautiful cathedral

Restaurants we enjoyed:
Camogliese overlooing the water on the main street. Good pesto
Jullia, Dei Doge outdoor (sort of rooftop) terrace with lovely views, more pesto and capon negro, an architectural salad creation native to the area that I recommend you try. Quite fun. Vento Ariel at the second fishing harbor also has it.
Porto Prego on fisherman's harbor, nice modern ambiance (recently redone) and nice outdoor seating. ate there twice

One word of warning on Dei Doge, watch out for the breakfast coffee--killer.

lower town is ok
 

We couchsurfed in Bergamo a few years ago, and out host lived in the Lower Town. I found it more "realistic" than the upper town that looks more like a touristy old town to me :) You can go up the hill from the lower town. From Bergamo, you could also go and explore lovely towns on Lake Como.

Julie, thank you very much for the specific information, especially about restaurants.

Thanks, SueBi, for the upper/lower town info too!