tedgale trip report: Prague
Mar 23rd, 2005, 05:20 PM
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tedgale trip report: Prague
I will do this very synoptically as there is so much info available through other posts:
We were in Prague twice this trip: March 4-5-6 and March 19-20 leaving March 21. Decided to take one Stare Mesto hotel and one Mala Strana apartment.
Upon arrival, mindful of posts about nasty rip off cabs, we took the Cedaz shuttle to namesti Republicky (90 CzK or about 4 US dollars) and walked the 1 block to our hotel, Apostolic Residence on Staromestske namesti.
Perfectly satisfactory.
But another day we were passing through nam. Republicky when the shuttle was leaving for the return to the airport. There were about 12 people for, say, 8 seats. One person had been bumped from the previous shuttle 30 minutes before and was desperate but was told "No space". So budget travellers beware.
On our second trip we paid Cedaz 480 CzK for delivery from the airport to our apartment. Ended up on non-scenic tour of the city as others were dropped off halfway to the Polish border, as it seemed to me.
When first leaving FOR the airport, we hailed a cab: 450 CzK, no meter.
When leaving ultimately for the airport, we -- with the late onset of wisdom -- called a cab from our apartment land-line (AAA cabs; 14 0 14) and got a proper metered cab that cost us 352 CzK.
So it is AAA everytime, from now on.
Apostolic Residence: charming, romantic, quirky. We rented the 2 floor "attic apartment" -- really 2 bedrooms, 2 baths. We did not need the space but were bewitched by website photos of the beamed attic and oak floors. We're talking serious tree-felling to build this place.
Huge, spotless, rather sparsely furnished, loaded with atmosphere.
On attic floor, the bed is set on a dais, inset into a dormer-window-alcove.
Downside is late-night noise from square -- lager louts and football hooligans. Spouse crept down to sleep on lower floors, where double-glazing cut the noise to near-zero. I improvised earplugs and stayed put.
Noise aside, Apostolic has premier location. Also copious and delicious breakfasts provided at next door, same-owner Grand Hotel Prague.
Not really like a hotel, more an annex to G. H. P. Front desk is manned only intermittently; you have your own door key. But we liked the independence and privacy and the quirkiness.
Mala Strana apartment: Vlasska 8, booked through pragueaccommodations. Serviceable, modernized flat. No great charm apart from painted wooden ceilings but it was fine. Mala Strana is quiet, atmospheric, with few tourists diverging from the fastest route to the Castle. A real neighbourhood, once off the beaten track.
Meals: We kept promising ourselves to go to Restaurant David for a really "fine" meal but never did. We chose instead "authentic", non-touristy places that favoured hearty cooking:
1. Kolkovna, owned by Pilsener Urquell, in nearby Kolkovne street. If you eat their Farmer's Platter you will never stand up again.
2. Stoleti -- everyone says it's so imaginative and good but I thought it was just a nice, simple, unremarkable place
3. Baracnicka rychta; na Trziste 23. Next door to David but what a contrast. Simple restaurant and controversial late-nite music venue -- the posh Alchymist hotel folk are opening a building nearby and are fighting the noise from this place, according to this week's Prague Post. Broke down and finally ordered pig's knuckle -- what a meal.
4. U zavesenyho kafe; at Uvoz 6, near the castle. Student-y. My favourite place for lunch or an unpretentious dinner, if you can stand the smoking.
If you go, try a pancake (palacinta) dish, e.g. with bacon, with blue cheese and apple butter. A meal in itself and absolutely delicious. Not a place for small, delicate appetites.
Favourite sites:
The Loreta Abbey
The Strahov Library
Any Baroque church
The Kampa area, especially the small streets and squares south of the Charles Bridge
The Obecni dum -- municipal concert house with incredible Art Nouveau/ Secessionist decor -- all original, down to the light fixtures and door-knobs and all museum-quality
Wish I had done:
Dinner at Francouska restaurant, the world's most beautful restaurant, in Obecni dum
The Cubist museum, near the Estates opera house
The modern art museum in the Trade Fair building -- distant but apparently excellent
Overall:
1. These are not very warm people -- unsurprising, considering what they have been through
2. The rich-poor contrast is striking and shocking. I am unused, even in Africa, to seeing beggars literally prostrated before you, with heads touching the pavement.
3. Seeing the tourist traffic even at this season, I think Prague must be unbearable in spring and summer. Moreover the loutish element -- so-called "stag parties" seeking sex shows and cheap beer -- is very, very evident.
4. Notwithstanding the above, it is one of the great, beautiful cities of Europe and I am glad I have seen it.
A coda: Hoped for some months now that my spouse's work would get us to this corner of central Europe on a business trip. Finally gave up and booked us a trip to Prague.
Returned from Prague Monday night.
Tuesday morning, phone call: Can you be in Poland early next week?...Yes.
Tuesday afternoon, phone call from another consulting firm: Can you go to Egypt?... Yes, just before Kenya.
So I shall have many quiet Fodor-posting evenings this Spring.
We were in Prague twice this trip: March 4-5-6 and March 19-20 leaving March 21. Decided to take one Stare Mesto hotel and one Mala Strana apartment.
Upon arrival, mindful of posts about nasty rip off cabs, we took the Cedaz shuttle to namesti Republicky (90 CzK or about 4 US dollars) and walked the 1 block to our hotel, Apostolic Residence on Staromestske namesti.
Perfectly satisfactory.
But another day we were passing through nam. Republicky when the shuttle was leaving for the return to the airport. There were about 12 people for, say, 8 seats. One person had been bumped from the previous shuttle 30 minutes before and was desperate but was told "No space". So budget travellers beware.
On our second trip we paid Cedaz 480 CzK for delivery from the airport to our apartment. Ended up on non-scenic tour of the city as others were dropped off halfway to the Polish border, as it seemed to me.
When first leaving FOR the airport, we hailed a cab: 450 CzK, no meter.
When leaving ultimately for the airport, we -- with the late onset of wisdom -- called a cab from our apartment land-line (AAA cabs; 14 0 14) and got a proper metered cab that cost us 352 CzK.
So it is AAA everytime, from now on.
Apostolic Residence: charming, romantic, quirky. We rented the 2 floor "attic apartment" -- really 2 bedrooms, 2 baths. We did not need the space but were bewitched by website photos of the beamed attic and oak floors. We're talking serious tree-felling to build this place.
Huge, spotless, rather sparsely furnished, loaded with atmosphere.
On attic floor, the bed is set on a dais, inset into a dormer-window-alcove.
Downside is late-night noise from square -- lager louts and football hooligans. Spouse crept down to sleep on lower floors, where double-glazing cut the noise to near-zero. I improvised earplugs and stayed put.
Noise aside, Apostolic has premier location. Also copious and delicious breakfasts provided at next door, same-owner Grand Hotel Prague.
Not really like a hotel, more an annex to G. H. P. Front desk is manned only intermittently; you have your own door key. But we liked the independence and privacy and the quirkiness.
Mala Strana apartment: Vlasska 8, booked through pragueaccommodations. Serviceable, modernized flat. No great charm apart from painted wooden ceilings but it was fine. Mala Strana is quiet, atmospheric, with few tourists diverging from the fastest route to the Castle. A real neighbourhood, once off the beaten track.
Meals: We kept promising ourselves to go to Restaurant David for a really "fine" meal but never did. We chose instead "authentic", non-touristy places that favoured hearty cooking:
1. Kolkovna, owned by Pilsener Urquell, in nearby Kolkovne street. If you eat their Farmer's Platter you will never stand up again.
2. Stoleti -- everyone says it's so imaginative and good but I thought it was just a nice, simple, unremarkable place
3. Baracnicka rychta; na Trziste 23. Next door to David but what a contrast. Simple restaurant and controversial late-nite music venue -- the posh Alchymist hotel folk are opening a building nearby and are fighting the noise from this place, according to this week's Prague Post. Broke down and finally ordered pig's knuckle -- what a meal.
4. U zavesenyho kafe; at Uvoz 6, near the castle. Student-y. My favourite place for lunch or an unpretentious dinner, if you can stand the smoking.
If you go, try a pancake (palacinta) dish, e.g. with bacon, with blue cheese and apple butter. A meal in itself and absolutely delicious. Not a place for small, delicate appetites.
Favourite sites:
The Loreta Abbey
The Strahov Library
Any Baroque church
The Kampa area, especially the small streets and squares south of the Charles Bridge
The Obecni dum -- municipal concert house with incredible Art Nouveau/ Secessionist decor -- all original, down to the light fixtures and door-knobs and all museum-quality
Wish I had done:
Dinner at Francouska restaurant, the world's most beautful restaurant, in Obecni dum
The Cubist museum, near the Estates opera house
The modern art museum in the Trade Fair building -- distant but apparently excellent
Overall:
1. These are not very warm people -- unsurprising, considering what they have been through
2. The rich-poor contrast is striking and shocking. I am unused, even in Africa, to seeing beggars literally prostrated before you, with heads touching the pavement.
3. Seeing the tourist traffic even at this season, I think Prague must be unbearable in spring and summer. Moreover the loutish element -- so-called "stag parties" seeking sex shows and cheap beer -- is very, very evident.
4. Notwithstanding the above, it is one of the great, beautiful cities of Europe and I am glad I have seen it.
A coda: Hoped for some months now that my spouse's work would get us to this corner of central Europe on a business trip. Finally gave up and booked us a trip to Prague.
Returned from Prague Monday night.
Tuesday morning, phone call: Can you be in Poland early next week?...Yes.
Tuesday afternoon, phone call from another consulting firm: Can you go to Egypt?... Yes, just before Kenya.
So I shall have many quiet Fodor-posting evenings this Spring.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 06:57 PM
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nice report, I may try some of your eating suggestions next month.
I didn't go inside Municipal House last time, but it's high on my list this time, including the cafe.
Glad you enjoyed your trip.
I didn't go inside Municipal House last time, but it's high on my list this time, including the cafe.
Glad you enjoyed your trip.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 11:33 PM
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Elaine: Re municipal house restaurants: Francouska is the famous one; opposite it is the equally striking cafe, which I would not recommend.
We dropped in to the latter for dessert and a Cointreau around 10 one evening and immediately felt "Tourist trap": slack service; over-priced, dull food and a generally desolate, disconsolate air to the place.
In the basement are the picturesque Plzenska bar and the American bar (closed when we were there).
We dropped in to the latter for dessert and a Cointreau around 10 one evening and immediately felt "Tourist trap": slack service; over-priced, dull food and a generally desolate, disconsolate air to the place.
In the basement are the picturesque Plzenska bar and the American bar (closed when we were there).
Mar 24th, 2005, 01:13 PM
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There are some very nice cafes on Tynska, off of Old Town Square--very quiet, away from the maddening crowds.
Whilst I didn't find the people of Prague to be as warm and gregarious as the Greeks, for example, I thought that most people were friendly if you tried to be friendly first. So many people helped me in the Metro without even being asked. I did notice, however, that the women who worked in the shops (like Moser) did not approach any would-be customers. You had to approach them for help. (They obviously don't work on commission.)
Missing Restaurant David was a grave mistake. I can still taste my foie gras from my dinner there in July.
Whilst I didn't find the people of Prague to be as warm and gregarious as the Greeks, for example, I thought that most people were friendly if you tried to be friendly first. So many people helped me in the Metro without even being asked. I did notice, however, that the women who worked in the shops (like Moser) did not approach any would-be customers. You had to approach them for help. (They obviously don't work on commission.)
Missing Restaurant David was a grave mistake. I can still taste my foie gras from my dinner there in July.
Mar 24th, 2005, 01:32 PM
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Tedgale, thanks for posting a very interesting and helpful report. I keep planning to take a trip up to Prague when I'm in Vienna but never get around to it. If I do go, I will keep your observations in mind.
What's your final verdict? Are you glad you picked Prague for this trip or do you wish you had gone somewhere else? Would you like to go back?
And AggieRose, what the heck is your problem?
What's your final verdict? Are you glad you picked Prague for this trip or do you wish you had gone somewhere else? Would you like to go back?
And AggieRose, what the heck is your problem?
Mar 24th, 2005, 01:54 PM
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Btike: I'm not clear what your problem is, either. AggieR yawned (I'm not sure it that's an approval or disapproval of the report). That's Ag's prerogative. I'm not impressed with the report, either. What's with the OP's disclosure of personal phone calls at the end of the report - this is immaterial to the report, as far as I'm concerned.
Hey, this is a public forum and if you are hurt by criticsms, then don't post!
Hey, this is a public forum and if you are hurt by criticsms, then don't post!
Mar 24th, 2005, 02:15 PM
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My fervent congratulations on remembering the names and spelling of Prague sites.Especially after indulging in pilsner My biggest challenge was in deciphering the Czech tongue-phew. However I did find Prague despite the obvious downfalls to be so beautiful and also such a stark example of the effect of Communism particularly as you travel out from the city center.
My biggest challenge was in deciphering the Czech tongue-phew. However I did find Prague despite the obvious downfalls to be so beautiful and also such a stark example of the effect of Communism particularly as you travel out from the city center.
Mar 24th, 2005, 02:46 PM
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BTilke: My final verdict is that I had a stimulating time and am glad finally to have seen Prague. But I am not in a hurry to go back, unlike Rome (which we also visited on this trip and to which I would move tomorrow if I could).
Too, the substantial "rough" tourist element does make a difference; I'm not shocked -- but these are not people I want to be around, on a holiday.
Too, the substantial "rough" tourist element does make a difference; I'm not shocked -- but these are not people I want to be around, on a holiday.
tedgale!
Mar 24th, 2005, 05:08 PM
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I would not go to the Francouzksa restaurant in the Municipal House for a "high end" dinner. It is a beautiful restaurant with atmosphere, but to me it's pricey and just isn't that good. If you want to enjoy its beautiful space, and it is wonderful, go there for lunch.
Mar 24th, 2005, 05:24 PM
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Why, my stars, tedgale, what ever do you mean about the louts and the blossoms?
LOL (I hope that's not what people really mean when they refer to "Golden Prague"
I've booked one of the infrequent English tours of Municipal House for our arrival afternoon. Assuming we don't fall asleep, maybe we'll have a coffee in the cafe, just to savor the atmosphere.
LOL (I hope that's not what people really mean when they refer to "Golden Prague"
I've booked one of the infrequent English tours of Municipal House for our arrival afternoon. Assuming we don't fall asleep, maybe we'll have a coffee in the cafe, just to savor the atmosphere.
