sap

If you had to choose between either of these two chateaux in Burgundy, which would you pick? Would it be reasonable to combine them both with Chablis earlier in the day and Nolay at the end (circling from a base in Vezelay), or do you think it's best to just stick with one? Any thoughts based on experiences in Chablis and Nolay are welcome, too!

StuDudley

Nolay - do you really mean Noyers??? Nolay is south of Beaune & is only mildly interesting (I think there is an antique shop there that my wife enjoyed). Noyers is close to the other three sites you mentioned.

You can easily visit all 4 sites - assuming you really mean Noyers. I would get to Ancy le Franc as soon as they open in the AM. The guided tour will probably start within 30 mins of the opening time - you want to be on the first tour. Then drive to Noyers for a look-around & lunch. This is a small town - pick up a walking tour map at the tourist office. I don't recall any shops that attracted my wife, but just wandering through town is enjoyable. Then get to Tanlay as soon as they open after the lunch closing to pick up the first after-lunch departure. Then off to Chablis (we did not visit Chablis).

Stu Dudley

sap

Oops, sorry. Yes, I did mean Noyers.

Is the reason you recommended doing Ancy le Franc in the morning because it's more popular than Tanlay (as opposed to seeing Tanlay in the a.m. and Ancy in the p.m.)? I was looking for a nice, logical loop without any backtracking on the driving, so I'm not sure it would be worth dipping down to Noyers before going back up to Tanlay, which I think might add at least half an hour to the driving. If it's not recommended that I see Ancy in the p.m., I think I would skip Tanlay.

Are there any other interesting villages that work within that loop in a relatively straight progression?

Thanks, as always, for your fab input.

StuDudley

They are both nice chateaux - I can't recall if one is better than the other. Michelin rates them both as two star attractions. I would try real hard to visit both.

There was no reason I recommended seeing one in the morning & the other in the afternoon. Whatever makes the most efficient loop would be the best. The only thing to consider is the "dead" lunch time when there are no tours. We've visited perhaps 30-40 chateaux in the Auvergne & Burgundy. We always found that it is best to catch the first departure in the morning & first in the afternoon after lunch. Sometimes if you take a later departure (16:00 for example) you may have to wait past 16:00 to start because the 14 & 15 departures got behind schedule.

According to the brochure I picked up while in the area:

Tanlay - 1 hr tours starting at 10, 11:30, 14:15, 15:15, 16:15. Closed on Tues www.chateaudetanlay.com

Ancy le Franc - tour departures at 10:30, 11:30, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 July & Aug 9:30 departure - Closed Monday www.chateau-ancy.com

So - you catch the 10:30 Ancy tour which probably finishes at 11:30. Drive to Noyers & visit & have lunch (we did that) from noon till 13:30. Then drive to Tanlay & catch the 14:15 tour, which probably finishes at 15:15 (allow time for taking photos of the exterior of both chateaux before or after the tour). Then visit Chablis from 15:45 to 17:00 - then back to Vezelay. We got to Tanlay about 30 mins before the tour started & had a nice time relaxing in the garden/forrest.

BTW, Chablis rates zero stars in the Michelin Green Guide.

Based on reading a couple of books to establish our itinerary when we were there for 2 weeks, We did not choose to visit any other villages in this immediate area (Tanlay/Ancy) - not even Chablis - and we LOVE cute little villages.

Stu Dudley

StuDudley

Looks like Tanlay sold their web site name to a dating service. if you go to www.routedesducs.com - you'll see a pic of the chateau, but the www takes you to the dating service also. This is a very nice chateau.

Stu Dudley

sap

Thanks, Stu. I see your point about the dead lunch hours. I can't believe how much that throws me off when I'm planning. I think I'll drop Chablis, too. BTW, I think the site for Tanlay is now www.chateaudetanlay.fr/

Michael

If I had to choose, I would take Tanlay over Ancy-le-Franc; the interiors with the trompe l'oeil gallery and the mural in one of the towers make it more interesting. Moreover, no photography was allowed in Ancy-le-Franc when we were there.

Laidback

Per usual I agree with Stu, skip Chablis unless you are more interested in their wine than touring splendor, and use the Route des Ducs site he mentioned. We would hate to choose between Tanlay and Ancy-le-Franc...which child to you prefer kind of choice, and you don't have to unless your time is very tight. Noyers is a charming little medieval town, that I would choose as a location if making an old "sword and cape" movie. One absolutely unique place you can visit on this same loop is the Fontenay Abbey, a UNESCO world heritage site.

sap

Yes, I will skip Chablis and I'm sure I can drink their wine elsewhere. Doing both Tanlay and Ancy-le-Franc is quite doable, then and that'll be the plan. I definitely want to see Fontenay Abbey and it's scheduled for the following day. Thanks, Laidback. (With a screen name like that, you must be a Slow Traveler.)

Sue4

Glad you can do both of those chateaux - well worth it! I remember Ancy-le-Franc had beautiful rooms and decorations. I was the only person on the Tanley tour, and the guide was wonderful. I could understand his French and really enjoyed him. Amazingly, that chateau is still occupied by the original family (but only for a week or so a year!). It was quite interesting. In the time between those two chateaux (and a quick lunch) I went to Tonnere and saw the interesting "Ancien Hopital".

The truth is, I loved everything about Burgundy!
I would love to go back.