Switzerland-Brief Trip Report

Old Apr 13th, 2004, 02:58 AM
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Singletail
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Switzerland-Brief Trip Report

This report is not meant to be all-inclusive but, hopefully, it will be helpful to some.

Just to provide some basic background: I was approached by my next-door neighbors who were contemplating a trip to Switzerland with their 15 y.o. son during his "Easter Break" from school. They had never been to Switzerland before as my partner and I had. Before I knew it I found myself deep into the planning of this trip. Not wanting to assume the role of "total tour guide" I made certain that the other couple gave direct suggestions as to the itinerary and the hotels.

The main purpose was to get a general overview of the country, with particular emphasis on alpine areas and also a visit to Geneva.

We departed from Washington National on Friday, 2 April on a Continental flight to Newark and connected there for the leg to Geneva. I had booked the tickets last August and got a fare of $419 each (economy)inclusive of taxes.

The flights went smoothly (767 on the Newark-Geneva segment) and the in-flight entertainment system approached that of Virgin Atlantic's with lots of movie selections and interactive games available. What is different from Virgin's system is the fact that you cannot start the movies whenever you wish. The food over was, I susppose, somewhat typical; we were glad we had brought our own snacks, water, etc., which helped.

Arrived in Geneva and were through Immigration and Customs very quickly. Walked from the Customs area directly into the Swiss Railways station which is adjacent where we had our Swiss Rail passes validated.
I had used one of the several ATM machines in the baggage claim area to get Swiss Francs without difficulty.

Train service from the airport station is frequent and we hopped the next one into the center and Cournavin station; from there we took a cab to the Hotel Eden, a three-star place located across from the Botanical Garden on the Rue de Lausanne. The hotel was the other couple's choice; they had a triple room with a lake view and we had a double with a lake view. Hotel rooms were of decent size; bathrooms tiled throughout with separate shower and tub. The hotel is about a 15-minute walk from the center of the city (we walked it several times).

When we arrived only the double was ready so we stroed the luggage there and walked across the street and into the B. Garden for a look around. Quickly settled into the restaurant (Perle du Lac) outside with a great view of the lake and the famous "jet" fountain which is very impressive. Had some wine and great mixed salads for lunch...a relaxing couple of hours by the time it was over.

Weather was mild and the flowers just coming into bloom. Lots of forsythia, primroses, some tulips, etc.....looked to be a couple weeks behind us in the mid-Atlantic area.

Geneva has been described by some as "sterile" but we later had a very nice walk along the lakefront where a lot of the more well-known hotels such as the de la Paix and the Beau Rivage are located. Lots of people strolling and having ice cream at the numerous stands along the waterfront.

That evening we found a small, rather rustic restaurant a couple of blocks off the lake which served mainly Italian dishes but also fondue which two members shared and enjoyed thoroughly.


 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 03:18 AM
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Singletail
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Sunday 4 April. Up at 7 AM for the breakfast in the hotel's small dining room. The usual deal: coffee, orange juice, rolls of various types, cheese, cold cuts, jams and jellies.

Walked to the train station and took the first train to Lausanne, less than one hour away. This was the first day of the lake boat services "Spring and Summer" schedule and we transferred to the funicular across from the Lausanne station and took that down to the lakefront at Ouchy. Got a 10:00 AM departure which made stops along the way at places like Cully, Pully, Vevey, etc.; we got off at Chillon for a tour of that fortress (our second visit; the other couple's first). They thoroughly enjoyed the walk-through, as did we. The place was not crowded although there were a couple of teenage groups going through at the same time.

Walked back along the lakefront to Montreux where we explored the town a bit and had lunch...Italian food again which was soon to become a "staple" of this trip fo4r some reason.

Train back to Geneva and everyone simply crashed for the rest of the evening!

Monday 5 April. Up for breakfast and off on the train to Montreux again. I had, during the planning stages, "suggested" we might base ourselves in Lausanne but the other couple were absolutely intent on staying in Geneva (they began to see the un-necessity of that as this progressed).

Took the rail trip up to Rochers de Naye and it was spectacular. Changed trains at Caux where we were joined in the car by a mother and her very young daughter who was decked out in ski clothes, boots, etc., and had very casually tossed her skis into the "wagon" that was being pushed in front of this one-car toonerville coach. Off we went into the clouds! The "train" moved in fits and starts as there was ice on the overhead power wire which caused some difficulty for the motorman...lots of dramatic flashes of green light as we proceeded slowly into a virtual "white out" situation.
Arrived at the ski lift...t-bar NOT operating and two ski patrolmen jumped one; one immediately conferred with the mother and told her in no uncertain terms that the conditions were too undsafe for any downhill; the child was obviously disappointed.

Arrived at the station at the summit and soon found ourselves to be the ONLY folks up there; view totally obscured by snow and mist...great fun anyway but what to do until the next train down...well, eat and drink, of course.

Had the "cafeteria" with its numerous stuffed animals on the walls to ourselves. Had some of the greatest fondue ever and some wine along with it. Believe me, there was no pain being felt on the trip back down.
This would definitely be a "must do" for anyone wanting a fabulous trip up with views over Lac Leman...clearer weather would have helped but we didn't regret the decision and would do it again.

Train back to Lausanne from Montreux where we explored the older part of the city and the cathedral. Found a nice restaurant nearby..yes, it was Italian (did I mention that one member of this party is Italian-American???) and we had absolutely fabulous food. I'll try to find ther name of the place if anyone is interested.

Back to Geneva for the night.
 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 03:39 AM
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Tuesday 6 April: Up early for breakfast and check out. Taxi to the train station and on the 9:05 Cisalpino for Brig. I had forgotten how many vines there are under cultivation in Vaud and the rail trip along the lakeshore was a reminder. Arrived in Brig on time at 11:00AM. I had booked rooms at the Hotel Victoria across the street from the rail station as this was to be a one-night pit stop for a trip up to Zermatt and the Matterhorn later that day and our Glacier Express trip the next morning.

Got to the Hotel Victoria only to be greeted by a sign on the door saying the place wouldn't be open "for the season" until the 10th! I had made the reservations through the Minotel booking service on-line and had paid for two rooms (a double and a triple) in advance.

Fortunately, someone from inside the hotel came out and when I showed her my written reservation confirmation she directed us to the Hotel Europe next door where we were instantly accommodated with rooms that had great mountain views, and balconies.

Stored the luggage and took the train up to Zermatt. I've done this spectacular segment several times and this 1 hr 20-minuite repeat did not disappoint anyone in the group. Unfortunately, when we got to Zermatt we learned that the views from both the Gornergrat farther up and the Kleine Matterhorn were both obscured by clouds and snow so we opted to walk around the village. Had ice cream (Italian gelatto...need I say more????..it was great) and took the train back to Brig.

Showered and changed and hopped on a train for the 35-minute ride through the 12-mile long Simplon Tunnel to Domodossola in Italy so our Italian-American traveler could have dinner in that country!!!

Had one of the best meals ever at the Hotel Eurossola across from the train station...elegantly served four courses...this place would be worth staying in just for the food and presentation...have never had minestrone soup served with a baked puff pastry crust on top before and one of the thickest and juciest filet mignons I've ever seen. I'm not a foodie but this place was a real find.

Back to Brig on a train that we almost missed at 11:34 PM..we were alone in the car with three Italian policeman and their very friendly "vicious attack dog" German Shepherd who kept trying to get my rail pass out of my pocket...he was sweet but I wouldn't want to be on the bad side of him.
 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 03:55 AM
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Hi, I'm enjoying your report. On my way to Venice or Milano by train, I never thought of stopping at Domodossola but after reading your last post ... Was your dinner at Hotel Eurossola expensive?
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Old Apr 13th, 2004, 03:56 AM
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Wednesday 7 April: Did I say this report was "brief"????forgive me for getting so wordy. Today, took the Glacier Express from Brig to Chur. All I'll say is I've done this trip three times and it NEVER disappoints. Lots of snow up in The Goms and the great vistas and views. We had bought food at the local Migros in Brig along with some wine and spent most of the 4 1/2 hour trip oohing and ahing and eating and drinking. If you want some of the best of Swiss scenery in an easy, relaxing day with NO driving, this is one way to do it.

To Lucern from Chur by train that evening for a two-night stay at the Hotel des Balances. Had great riverview rooms with balconies overlooking the Reuss and the "Jesuit Church." Service in the restaurant at the hotel the first night was excellent and the food very good.

Lucern never disappoints; the swans on the river are still there looking for handouts and the place remains "charming" in many respects. Our traveling companions LOVED the place and spent the next day exploring while we did some shopping and general hanging out.

Good Friday 9 April: Took the "Golden Pass" route over the Brunig Pass back to Montreux and this took up a majority of the day. Again great views with snow at the higher elevations.

Good Friday is a national holiday in Switzerland with lots of local folks traveling to ski areas, etc; trains were full.

Back to Geneva for one night in the hotel and then the flight home on Saturday, 9 April.

Some general observations that may be of interest:

Money was easy to obtain in numerous available ATMs.
People were friendly and helpful throughout.
For those of you who have this mistaken notion that Europeans don't were sneakers, trainers, tennis shoes, whatever you want to call them, THINK AGAIN..they were being worn everywhere we went in Switzerland, as were denim trousers, by both men and women.

People in restaurants were dressed in everything from coats and ties to more casual dress.
 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 03:59 AM
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Singletail
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As I recall the meal for five came to about $200 US. I would never have even considered going to this town except for our Italian food lover and when I told him we could easily "eat dinner in Italy" he was all for it.
I still cannot get over the service and presentation...just goes to show that wonderful dining experiences can be had in less than four star places.
 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 04:30 AM
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Singletail,

Thanks so much for posting your report! I love this region and thoroughly enjoyed "visiting" there this morning! Wonderful!

s
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Old Apr 13th, 2004, 04:38 AM
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Thanks for the trip report; I never get tired of reading Swiss travel stories. Isn't Lausanne a gracious old city? I wonder that more of our folks don't stay there. On my first ($5 a Day book in hand) trip to Europe around 1970, my friends and I spent several nights in a house called Pension des Fleurettes. We had a huge corner room with a balcony view over the city and the lake and mountains in the distance. Memories are still vivid, though these days I head for villages rather than cities. Thanks again for taking the time to let us enjoy. J
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Old Apr 13th, 2004, 04:46 AM
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Hi Singletail, thanks for your answer reagrding the dinner in Domodossola.

"oohing and ahing and eating and drinking". That's the best way to spend your holidays! Made me smile
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Old Apr 13th, 2004, 04:53 AM
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Well, I obviously wasn't very "brief" in the actual telling, was I? But i agree about Lausanne and it would have been better as a "base" for those first couple of nights but the others really wanted to stay in Geneva...considering how much we DIDN'T do there and how much, when they actually saw it, LOVED Lausanne I was thinking to myself, "I knew I was right" but am glad I didn't insist because I wanted it to be "their" trip in the end...I was happy to go along for the ride.

If we had had more time I would have also included a couple of days around Interlaken as Iam sure they would have enjoyed that, too....but there never seems to be enough time..sigh!
 
Old Apr 13th, 2004, 04:54 AM
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Every time I take that Glacier Express trip I find myself "oohing and aahing"...I just never get tired of it..and it was very relaxing to kinda glide through the area on the train.
 
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