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Originally Posted by leifields
(Post 17702408)
- KarenWoo – I’m glad you are enjoying this report and thanks for your compliments and nice words! When I look at the pictures of that area, I feel like returning soon and doing other hikes/walks that we didn’t have time to do. But we do have other new places in our travel list. The Grindelwald-First hike is - 3 km each way, about 2 hours (3.7 miles total). We took and spent more time there. There were a couple of spots with more incline of the path with lots of gravel, but not steep, where I had to hold my DH’s hand because of my balance. And there were maybe two spots with mud. The Panorama walk to Kleine Scheidegg is very easy and shorter. Sils Maria looks beautiful, too! It looks like you had to change trains 3 times when you traveled from Luzern to St. Moritz. That is something that we normally wouldn't want to do but you said it worked very efficiently. Did you have to walk far with luggage when changing trains? |
Originally Posted by swandav2000
(Post 17702706)
Hallo!
Late to reply but have been following from the beginning! Enjoying this! Thanks so much! s |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17702733)
leifields, thank you for this information. I printed your itinerary for possible ideas if we do visit Switzerland some day. The hikes look like something we can handle, and the whole area looks beautiful. I am sure all of Switzerland is beautiful!
Sils Maria looks beautiful, too! It looks like you had to change trains 3 times when you traveled from Luzern to St. Moritz. That is something that we normally wouldn't want to do but you said it worked very efficiently. Did you have to walk far with luggage when changing trains? Thanks for your comments and continuing to follow along! |
OMG, the photos of all those cheeses in the Coop in Luzern!!!
When we were in Switzerland 2 summers ago, due to my poor planning, we had a one hour "break" in Brienz. The town is so pretty and peaceful (once you step away from the train station). The wooden sculptures are great, and one of your photos is of the water playground where my son spent a long time playing. Have never been to Sils Maria. Following along! |
Yk – Glad you are enjoying it😊.
Thanks for your comments and continuing to follow along! |
Oct 8 – Sils Maria - Furtschellas Mittelstation and Zuoz
Today’s plan was to take the gondola to Furtschellas Mittelstation, hike to the viewpoint at Marmorè and then the descent to Curtins in the Fex Valley. From there we would stop at Hotel Sonne and come back to Sils. We had breakfast at the hotel and then walked to the Furtschellas gondola station in Sils. It was a fresh, sunny, beautiful morning. It was easy taking the gondola (free with the “Guest card” from the hotel) and arriving at Furtschellas Middle station. From there we walked to the viewpoint at Marmorè. It provides stunning panoramic views over Lake Sils and Lake Silvaplana, peaks and valleys. Going up the path a little further we found the path to descend to Curtins. Right in the beginning there was a very steep descent which we saw I couldn’t make it. So, we decided to go back to the middle station and took the path in the direction of Sils. It was a long and not so easy descent to me (about 2 hours), but we enjoyed the views, nature and paths. By 12:30 pm we were back in Sils and tired, so we went to the hotel to rest a bit and freshen up. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d82da44cf6.jpg Breakfast at Hotel Maria https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96d0240695.jpg Going up on the Furtschellas gondola https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b5ac7633d.jpg Viewpoint at Marmorè https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e4a516f21.jpg View of Lake Sils https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3bfc9fa423.jpg Hiking back to Sils https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c9db313d3.jpg Hiking back to Sils https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3efae4b46b.jpg Hiking back to Sils https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c8570ef07.jpg Hiking back to Sils Then we decided to take a bus and go to Zuoz (free with the Guest card - 1 hour ride). We started walking around and taking pictures of the pretty houses. It is a small village, with very few people around. After that, we took the bus back to Sils. Although I had the information about the Omnibus carriage before, as an option on how to get to the Val Fex, on the way back to the hotel I saw their sign and the point of departure was across the street of our hotel. So, I immediately decided that it was the way for us to go. I called them and made a reservation for the following morning. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19af095e5e.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c1ed35fb4.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9acd97317e.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbc7e86f20.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e419fc1bb.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...159bc357ec.jpg Wandering around Zuoz https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...164fe91d96.jpg Omnibus horse-drawn carriage information Then at 7:00 pm we went for our dinner reservation at restaurant Stüva da la Posta @Hotel Post. The service and the food were very good. DH started with barley soup and as entrée Grison buckwheat pizokel. I started with beef bouillon and as entrée gnocchi with sage butter sauce. Total CHF 85.50 including water. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6efb69c7bc.jpg DH's Grison buckwheat pizokel https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf1c18d8ef.jpg My gnocchi with sage butter sauce |
Beautiful views and delicious food - continuing to enjoy your travels through Switzerland. From your photos, the Engadin looks more traditional. Did it feel that way?
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I love the architecture in Zuoz: the designs, the shutters, and the windows! Delicious food, too. What is pizokel? Both dishes look very rich.
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tripplanner001 – I couldn’t give a general opinion about the Engadin because I only visited a small part. I saw that Sils Maria is not a touristic spot where the crowds go. That is different from the BO area. I think it appeals to travelers looking for a quieter, more intimate alpine experience with scenic views. And maybe a traditional place for Swiss travelers and tourists from Germany, France and other neighbors.
Thanks for your comments and continuing to follow along! KarenWoo – I also loved seeing the architecture and those so creative designs of the shutters and windows in Zuoz and in many other towns of that region. Pizokel is a traditional Swiss pasta specialty from the canton of Graubünden, similar to Spätzli but often larger, chunkier, and sometimes made with buckwheat or added potato. Then typically served with melted butter, breadcrumbs, cabbage, cheese, and bacon. I’m glad you are enjoying it and thanks for continuing to follow along! |
I love your photos; you certainly are covering a lot of ground! Again, thank you for sharing.
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Originally Posted by Trophywife007
(Post 17703078)
I love your photos; you certainly are covering a lot of ground! Again, thank you for sharing.
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Oct 9 – Sils Maria – Val Fex
Today was another beautiful sunny day with warmer temperatures for this season here and we were excited to go to Val Fex with the horse-drawn carriage. We got our reservation for 10:45 am – one way to Hotel Fex – CHF 25.00 each. We were going to walk the way back to Sils (5 km – 3.10 miles). They advised me to be there some 20 minutes before. The horse-drawn carriage ride was a highlight of our time in Sils Maria. A pleasant and smooth ride with wonderful views of this valley. The location of the Hotel Fex is so beautiful. We had a good slice of nusstort admiring the view in a nice weather. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cfff89dfe.jpg Hotel Maria https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cdef5270a.jpg The carriages getting ready. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48e343fdd0.jpg The carriage ride https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66cce6ff69.jpg During the ride - Val Fex https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f53900ae61.jpg Views during the ride https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b417e95519.jpg Passing in front of Hotel Sonne https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac87488d24.jpg Views during the ride https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37bf68a5db.jpg Hotel Fex https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16257c6c29.jpg Hotel Fex https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...270ccdb79e.jpg View of the Val Fex valley from Hotel Fex The walk back was gorgeous, with a lot of stops for pics and for a picnic in a perfect spot seating on a bench with a view. We were back in Sils by 1:50 pm. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74463afc0b.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96c4dcb6aa.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f730f254e.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10b9274a83.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...186e64f7cc.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3fb05b4f4.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60caf1fd9f.jpg The walking back - Val Fex https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ff8f8ea3b.jpg The way back https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...302eee2586.jpg Sils Maria Then we decided to take the bus to Silvaplana Surlej (Corvatsch) and from there take the cable car up to Piz Corvatsch to see the view (all free with the Guest card). The views going up were very pretty, but up there at Corvatsch peak (elevation: 3303 meters), it was covered by many clouds and with lots of snow. We took the next cable car down 20 minutes after and got off at Murtèl station to have an idea of how the trail to Fuorcla Surlej was for hiking tomorrow. There were snow and ice on the beginning of the steep descend to the trail to Fuorcla Surlej. I noticed that it would be better if I had a hiking pole to give me some support. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c08353e1f2.jpg View from the Corvatsch cable car https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffb7bc2a75.jpg View from the Corvatsch cable car https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18d4b7e891.jpg View from the Corvatsch cable car https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92d7b765ee.jpg On top of Corvatsch peak (elevation: 3303 meters) Then we took the gondola down and took the bus back to Sils. By 5:00 pm we decided to have dinner again at the restaurant La Passarella. Today I ordered the squash soup (delicious!) to start, and we shared a big fresh salad and a flammkuchen with speck and spinach. To drink, a Calanda beer and water, and for dessert chestnut cake – the best I ate ever! Total CHF 54.00. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37f1e09c0e.jpg My squash soup at restaurant La Passarella. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...268edfe415.jpg Our flammkuchen with speck and spinach https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...949726e43e.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1625d8463f.jpg At restaurant La Passarella. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...523694bb3b.jpg Our delicious chestnut cake. That was a very good day! |
It really looks a wonderful day. I love the walk in the Fex Valley.
So peaceful and unspoiled. I‘m enjoying seeing it again through your eyes. |
The carriage ride looks like a lot of fun! How long was the walk back? Was it flat or hilly?
That chestnut cake looks scrumptious! |
- Adelaidean – Yes, the Fex valley is lovely to walk!
Thanks again for continuing to follow along.😊 - KarenWoo – The way back to Sils from Fex Valley is about 3.10 miles. We took 2 hours with lots of stops for pics, a picnic and a stop in Crasta, trying to visit the little chapel which was locked. It is a paved road, mostly descending in a smooth way. At the last 8 minutes we reached a trail through the little gorge of the Fex stream that had a steeper descent, but it had a rail for support. You can also choose to follow the asphalt road that passes by the Hotel Waldhaus and has also a more pronounced descent (the way the carriage uses). Thanks for continuing to follow along. |
Oct 10 – Sils Maria - Fuorcla Surlej and Soglio
Last night when we returned to the hotel I asked Michèle, a very friendly and helpful receptionist of the hotel, if they had hiking poles to rent or lend. She graciously said they could lend them to me for the day. A lovely sunny day again! We had breakfast and were off to take the 15-minute bus to Silvaplana Surlej (Corvatsch) and then the cable car to Murtèl station. We arrived at the Murtèl middle station after 10:00 am. This steep slope you need to descend right in the beginning of the trail was full of rocks and ice. I was insecure and afraid to descend. After some time and with the help of my husband and using one of the hiking poles, I made it. We took about an hour to walk to Fuorcla Surlej and there is a small section of the trail where we cross part of a glacier with thick ice. And before you reach the lake there is some ascent. Beautiful views of the lake, peaks and glaciers. The way back descending the mountain was easier. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d8c52e00e.jpg View from the cable car to Murtèl station. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c0ee4835e.jpg View from the cable car to Murtèl station. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfe981cc5c.jpg Walking to Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...478a361af3.jpg Walking to Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a18dd235e5.jpg Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0085f77887.jpg Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76be666773.jpg Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d40672a6bb.jpg Fuorcla Surlej Then we went back and took a bus ride over the Maloja pass to Soglio (Bus 604 - about 1h9min, with a change to Bus 624 in Promontogno). Free with the Guest card. It is a beautiful and exciting ride with valley views, the amazing skills of the driver in those sharp hairpin bends of the Maloja pass, and lovely hamlets. Soglio has such an extraordinary location with gorgeous views of peaks, mountains and valleys, stone houses and alleys that bring you back in time. I loved it! We got there around 2:45 pm and started wandering around but also locating the two restaurants I had selected for our lunch. We were hungry. We checked both and decided on the Hotel Restaurant Stüa Granda. It has great view to admire the mountains, and the food was very good. I had Chestnut ravioli stuffed with alpine cheese and red chicory, with gorgonzola sauce. DH had Beetroot risotto with Gorgonzola fondue, fermented lemon and caper powder (CHF 63.50 including Valser water). I liked what they say in their website: “Special treats are always worth a journey”. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47ad81c1fe.jpg Soglio - stunning views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01030cb8a9.jpg Soglio https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b0e838876.jpg Wandering around Soglio https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f124be6e0.jpg Wandering around Soglio https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40b11c91d5.jpg Wandering around Soglio https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...959f540f52.jpg Soglio https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de0ed0c227.jpg Hotel Restaurant Stüa Granda https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3f32a766f.jpg My Chestnut ravioli stuffed with alpine cheese and red chicory, with gorgonzola sauce. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a89ced98a.jpg DH's Beetroot risotto with Gorgonzola fondue, fermented lemon and caper powder. Before going to the restaurant, we stopped at the TI and asked if the hike descending to the Chestnut forest had any steep rocky part. She gave us a detailed map and said we could take the bus down and get off at Plazza stop, and from there take the Bregaglia trail via the Chestnut forest to Castasegna. We did that. At Plazza, we talked to a friendly Italian speaking resident across the street (she pointed us for the entrance of the trail), and then a Swiss tourist came to talk to DH (in English) asking about politics. Then we started the gorgeous trail through the enchanting chestnut groves and ancient paths (part of the Via Bregaglia trail). It is one of the largest chestnut forests in Europe. It was the time for their “Festival della Castagna”. The trail passes under a waterfall and a dark tunnel and goes down on arriving in Castasegna. The view of the trees and huts billowing smoke against the high mountains and blue sky in the background was something really beautiful! Castasegna sits on the border of Italy. In Castasegna we found the Pasticceria Salis da Lu e Lu where we had a quick stop for a chestnut cake. Then we took the Bus 604 back to Sils. One thing that I noticed in Switzerland (at least in the areas I visited) is how cleverly the towns are planned and organized, placing the train station across a bus station and a nearby supermarket. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb916a2b18.jpg Plazza https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61ced48472.jpg Walking the Via Bregaglia trail https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de681b85ab.jpg Walking the Via Bregaglia trail https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5845dac8a5.jpg Walking the Via Bregaglia trail https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4bc0c8544f.jpg Walking the Via Bregaglia trail https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...275257b313.jpg Walking the beautifuk Via Bregaglia trail. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...001a466493.jpg Honesty farm stand https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...331bcffa2a.jpg Arriving in Castasegna https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a5056daef.jpg Castasegna https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1b5ed2525.jpg Sunset in Castasegna while waiting for the bus. |
Glad you enjoyed Soglio and the chestnut trail, one of my favs.
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Wow!!! These are beautiful trails. I am book marking this for my Switzerland trip. Thanks for sharing.
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I'm following, too, since the beginning, and appreciate a lot every sentence and every picture. Thank you very much to take the time to share them!
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Some more of my favourite places.
Lovely autumnal landscapes. Your report is such a delight, thank you. |
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