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Oct 20 –
After spending an inordinate amount of time trying to work out the bus/train logistics to various hikes and becoming overwhelmed with the sheer number of options, we threw in the towel and opted for the ‘no plan’. We went down and then back up the hill to the Tiefencastel railway station, making a detour to the Tiefencastel Dorf bus stop to check out the routes, and then caught a train to Thusis hoping to sort things out when we got there (3.80 chf each). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fc29de366.jpg Tiefencastel https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52eb927fb5.jpg Tiefencastel Dorf bus stop Funnily enough, there was a giant Coop grocery store right next to the Thusis train station…a level walk and an elevator ride takes one up to the massive store. I would have loved to find it a few days ago. We live, we learn. Soon after arriving in Thusis we decided to forgo hiking altogether. We walked the mile or so down to the Lidl store so I could look for a particular chocolate bar I’d found in Grenchen and wanted to take home. Success! Then we trudged back up to Thusis, peeling of clothing as we went as it had gotten quite warm. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b032c0b78.jpg Near Lidl, Thusis https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c77c5b780.jpg Near Lidl, Thusis https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a685d3f81.jpg Near Lidl, Thusis Hungry, we called into Pizzeria Bernina, where we had a long and very windy alfresco lunch on their terrace, surprised that the conditions didn’t drive more people inside; perhaps they didn’t have COVID certificates. (57.50 chf with drinks, excellent pizza, everyone here spoke Italian). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f37e3f611.jpg View from our table at Pizzeria Bernina https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc42892bb2.jpg Pizzeria Bernina We eventually sought out the tourist office, then wandered through town killing time while we waited for it to re-open after lunch. Then followed a long chat with a very helpful young man where we learned about everything we’d be missing due to lack of time and anticipated bad weather. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc7b617304.jpg Thusis https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...656d238f34.jpg Thusis https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7414994bc.jpg Thusis https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...053c261afe.jpg Thusis Thusis is now on our radar for next time. Then it was back to the Thusis railway station, where we had a drink while awaiting our train (3.80 chf each), me chuffed to be given a proper glass for my wine (it’s a wino thing, the nicer the glass the better the wine tastes, no?) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e7d7fbcc1.jpg Thusis railway station https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b3189a0c9.jpg Thusis railway station Back in Tiefencastel we began the fight with the washing machine. A key preloaded with francs was needed to use the machine, and I suspect we used more than we needed given the baffling assortment of knobs. No directions in English, so we tried to decipher the German, and ended up pressing random buttons until something happened. This is a recurring theme for us in Switzerland. Laundry day tends to be frustrating, but we only pack for a week, so it’s a necessary evil. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11f2c304e4.jpg Tiefencastel https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8a368a7a8.jpg Washing machine An unproductive day as far as hiking goes (although we managed to log five miles without stepping foot on a hiking trail), but sometimes a person just needs a day to chill. To be continued… |
Oct 21 –
We were interested in the Viamala Gorge, which boasts cliffs up to 300 meters high, and is only a few meters wide in places. It’s said to be the largest and most impressive gorge in Graubünden, and consists of bridges that span the narrow ravine at a height of 70 meters and a descent into the gorge via 321 steps. But, bad weather was predicted, so instead of exploring the gorge, we decided to undertake the Burgenweg Domleschg, a 16 km hike from Thusis to Rothenbrunnen. https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/tours/burgenweg-domleschg The Domleschg is considered one of the most beautiful and diverse valleys in Graubünden and is home to most of Switzerland’s castles. Unwilling to commit to the entire 10 miles in potentially bad weather - let alone climb some of those steep hills – we chose to walk it in reverse - we took the train to Thusis, connected to a bus to Tomils and began the trek there (7.20 chf each). https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/tours/burgenweg-domleschg This was a lovely wander through countryside, small villages and agricultural areas (complete with some incredibly pungent smells – in Switzerland the farmers spray what I suspect is liquefied livestock poop on their fields several times a year and it stinks like you would not believe), and included several privately owned ruins and castles. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ec0370457.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1901ebab99.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b531efedb3.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17118f90e2.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7a6ce6f17.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc6d5c1568.jpg Burgenweg Domleschg We took a break in Fürstenau - the “smallest city in the world”, where I immediately fell in love, and where we stumbled upon the pretty terrace of Casa Caminada, which will forever be remembered as the place I tried my first Hugo Spritz (excellent!) and where we were treated to roasted pumpkin seeds and some of the best bread and herb butter we’ve ever had (19.50 chf for a Hugo and Weissbier). https://www.fuerstenau.ch/ From there we continued walking to Sils im Domleschg, where we caught a bus back to Thusis and then a train back to Tiefencastel (5.60 chf each). It never did rain. In fact, the sun came out and the autumn views were glorious - I took a gazillion photos, just to lose them forever when I made a stupid computer mistake. Damn. Back in Tiefencastel, we made an encore visit to the Albula & Julier Restaurant for one final dose of Grisons Capuns (42.40 chf, Capuns and sparkling water). Another 7.5 mile day. To be continued… |
<<Back in Tiefencastel we began the fight with the washing machine. A key preloaded with francs was needed to use the machine, and I suspect we used more than we needed given the baffling assortment of knobs. No directions in English, so we tried to decipher the German, and ended up pressing random buttons until something happened. This is a recurring theme for us in Switzerland. Laundry day tends to be frustrating, but we only pack for a week, so it’s a necessary evil.>>
lol, Mel, you reminded me of an episode when we were staying in Wengen and needed to do some laundry - there were similarly indecipherable instructions but we had the opposite experience and in retrospect I think we somehow used someone else's money! Perhaps you also paid forward for someone else's load. Loving the photos but not envying you the walking up and down to the stations and your accommodation. Still I suppose it walks off the lunches! |
Oct 22 –
Our next stop was only a few hours away, so we had a leisurely morning. We packed and tidied up the apartment, walked the steep hill down and back up to the recycling area to drop off our recycling, and then made our way down that steep hill one last time, but only as far as the Tiefencastel Dorf bus stop, thereby avoiding the big hill up to the railway station. From there we caught a bus to Chur via the massive Lenzerheide-Arosa ski area with some 225 km of slopes (24.20 chf each). We’d spent several nights in Lenzerheide one December a few years ago, and it was interesting to see the area in a different season. The area was hopping, the streets and lakes busy, the leaves a vibrant yellow. Lenzerheide is now on our list for a return autumn visit. Our bus driver was a maniac, whipping around those steep switchbacks entirely too fast for my tastes and making me a bit bus sick. Once in Chur we walked from the bus station down to the train station and connected with a train to Ziegelbrücke. Here I left Bill with the luggage; the weather had turned cold and wet, so he retreated to the warming station. I dashed to catch the connecting bus to Grabenstrasse in Bilten, having purchased a bus ticket in advance via the SBB app (5.20 chf return) then walked about five minutes from there to the Läderach factory. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdeff21a7d.jpg Snaps from the train https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c31148985c.jpg Snaps from the train https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9aea7c39c9.jpg We’d originally planned to visit Läderach as a side trip from Rapperswil, but when looking at bus and train routes, we discovered we could kill two birds with one stone. The factory has undergone an extensive remodel since we last took a tour there in 2019. The showroom and shop is much bigger and there’s now a café. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to linger. I headed directly to the bulk section, where they sell what I assume are ‘seconds’ at heavily discounted prices. I loaded up on an assortment of goodies, including my personal favorite, champagne truffles. Our detour had served multiple purposes; the obvious one of acquiring chocolate, freeing up our only full day in Rapperswil for other activities, and delaying our arrival until 4 pm, the non-negotiable check in time for our apartment. Then it was back on the bus to Ziegelbrücke to rejoin Bill and our luggage, and then on to a train to Rapperswil, our home for the next two nights. We were met by rain, gloom and a near empty Old Town. Our apartment was easy to find for a change, situated next to a jewelry shop a couple of streets over from the train station. We weren’t quite finished with steep climbs though; it was on the third floor, accessed by two flights of steep skinny stairs. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...828671b0cc.jpg Stairs to our studio apartment in Rapperswil The studio apartment was tiny, the smallest accommodation of our trip thus far, but it was comfortable, relatively quiet, exceptionally well equipped and every inch of space was thoughtfully utilized. After getting settled we sought out a restaurant we’d discovered a few years ago, The Spice House, Bill leading us there as if he’d just been yesterday. Oh to have that man’s sense of direction. The food was excellent, spicy Tandoori chicken for Bill (which he described as nuclear, just the way he likes it) and Tandoori Paneer Tikka for me, which got a bit of Bill’s drive by spice (64 chf with shared rice, shared garlic naan and sparkling water). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...940172f84c.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f98382f5fc.jpg The Spice House To be continued… |
annhig -
You'd think we'd have figured out the washing machines by now, but no...glad to hear we're not alone. |
I loved Thusis, Mel, glad you did. Very charming, a great transport hub, loads of good places to eat, and a most stunning landscape.
You really had some wonderful experiences, I’ve been googling furiously since reading this :) |
Adelaidean -
Yes, Thusis looks like a great base for next time. Wonder if I might find an apartment there that doesn't involve climbing a mountain? |
> Did you take the hike to the glacier at Lac de Moiry?
No did not go to the glacier. We came over the Col de Torrent, went down to the dam, spent nights in Grimentz and St-Luc before exiting the valley over Meidpass. Even with all the hiking I gained weight on that trip. The steps to your Rapperswil apartment do look intimidating, as does Bill's tandoor chicken. |
Nelson -
I'd have loved to read your hiking report (had there been one, hint, hint). You're much tougher than I am. |
> You're much tougher than I am.
Less intelligent is more likely. I made a stab at a trip report but it wasn't flowing so I gave up. Do appreciate yours, great work, thanks. |
Oct 23 –
The medieval old town was deserted when we wandered out around 8:30 am on a quest for chocolate croissants, in this “town of roses” situated on the upper end of Lake Zurich. Then the sun appeared and people came out of the woodwork to enjoy this spectacular autumn day. We explored just about every inch of the center...first St Johann church and Rapperswil Castle, the city’s landmark, which sits atop the Lindenhof, a long rocky hill that extends through the city and dates back to the end of the 12th century. We gazed down at the deer park where fallow deer have lived since 1871, watching an optimistic buck follow several does, and then wrangle his huge rack through the slats of a fence in order to reach the fruit high on a tree on the opposite side. Hilarious. We took in the views from above the Schlossberg, home to the oldest vineyard on Lake Zurich and just stunning on this beautiful day. Then came a long wander through the cobblestone streets and along the waterfront and marina, watching the swans and following a lakeside path to nowhere in particular, managing to log five miles just being tourists. By now restaurant terraces were full, people were strolling the streets and kids were enjoying pony rides, having a ball. On a whim we wandered into Manor, a department store with a large supermarket and food hall in the basement; what a find. We purchased some lunch items, showed our COVID certificates and pulled up a table. There’s a huge Nespresso machine in the self-service area and having never seen one before, I had to get a photo, which amused the other patrons to no end. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed5a42b8ea.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...769d51fb87.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d77576d27.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e978ca9c22.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a84a7c467d.jpg Rapperswil church https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25336f04ec.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd4adf4dec.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28ef68a1ac.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...629434fab8.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7f7941d41.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6156075404.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21fb9b76a5.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2727c8c076.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33a4dfec8c.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92e0cd677e.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14a42e49e2.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91883dd56d.jpg Rapperswil Bill eventually retreated to the room with a beer and a book, but it was too pretty for me to stay indoors, so I wandered out again, revisiting the castle on the hill, people watching and stumbling upon a wedding photoshoot. I’m not sure which was more entertaining, the wedding party and photographer or the myriad people who stopped to photograph the photoshoot. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d9f98ae2d.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b48e8dd44.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f20534411e.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3749f1b3f3.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04d03fd17e.jpg Rapperswil https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6e046f112.jpg Rapperswil Later that evening we wandered out again in search of dinner, ending up at the Istanbul Bistro for a quick meal of kebabs (21 chf). Our month long visit was quickly drawing to a close. To be continued… |
Wow! I have finally had some time to sit and read through your amazing story Mel.
You have opened my eyes to so many new areas and so many tempting places to visit. We admire your amazing hiking stamina and capacity yet realise that we are simply not well enough trained or brave enough to tackle long cold walks in some mountain areas. I guess my growing up in hot Perth was not a good training ground! Your frankness when some things are frustrating is also welcome: I have a lower tolerance for things going awry than my dh and sometimes it is good to read that I am not alone. Using the laundrette in Wengen was also a challenge for us on our first visit. After getting things all sorted, money organised and then readying ourselves for a quiet drink whist the washing happened we discovered that it was not permitted at lunchtime - or something similar. On another note I love Campari and as the weather warms up here I have just started my summer Campari drinking and absolutely love the bitterness and indeed drink with only a splash of soda or blood orange. It is about as close to sitting and sippng in a sunny Italian square that we are likely to get at the moment! Now I will re read, check map, make notes and again a huge thank you. Somehow we live in hope that maybe 2023 will see us able to return to Europe and do some catching up travel before we are too old. Meanwhile as it is an unusually cold and wet day here I ponder taking drive up to Hahndorf for hot chocolate as per your trips many years ago! |
Good to see you here love_travel! I just googled and Chocolate @ No. 5 still appears to be in business.
Have one for me. (and thank you very much for your nice comments, they're much appreciated) |
Mel, thought you’d appreciate this incredible Filisur photo I came across
https://medium.com/ukka/landwasser-v...d-8dba6ec2a8c8 |
love_travel, it sure is an unpleasant day today, Hahndorf should be quiet!
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That is very cool Adelaidean! Not sure what I like more, the photo or the guy's last name:lol:
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Originally Posted by love_travel_Aus
(Post 17304065)
Wow! I have finally had some time to sit and read through your amazing story Mel.
You have opened my eyes to so many new areas and so many tempting places to visit. We admire your amazing hiking stamina and capacity yet realise that we are simply not well enough trained or brave enough to tackle long cold walks in some mountain areas. I guess my growing up in hot Perth was not a good training ground! Your frankness when some things are frustrating is also welcome: I have a lower tolerance for things going awry than my dh and sometimes it is good to read that I am not alone. Using the laundrette in Wengen was also a challenge for us on our first visit. After getting things all sorted, money organised and then readying ourselves for a quiet drink whist the washing happened we discovered that it was not permitted at lunchtime - or something similar. i do hope you make it to Europe soon. On another note I love Campari and as the weather warms up here I have just started my summer Campari drinking and absolutely love the bitterness and indeed drink with only a splash of soda or blood orange. It is about as close to sitting and sippng in a sunny Italian square that we are likely to get at the moment! Now I will re read, check map, make notes and again a huge thank you. Somehow we live in hope that maybe 2023 will see us able to return to Europe and do some catching up travel before we are too old. Meanwhile as it is an unusually cold and wet day here I ponder taking drive up to Hahndorf for hot chocolate as per your trips many years ago! |
No Chocolate at No 5 Mel - way too cold. We tend to get scared off by cold weather here!
But I am wearing a gorgeous purple scarf I purchased in Lindau - on what is a very cold 14C day here in Adelaide. Visited LIndau for a day about 8 years ago and really still want to return to the whole region. Annhig: yes indeed. And only last night at the pub after choir rehearsal a fellow chorister was enthusiastically recommending a visit to Cornwall as soon as we are allowed to travel. So before I had read your response (above) you were in my thoughts. Doubly clinches it. |
Originally Posted by love_travel_Aus
(Post 17304479)
No Chocolate at No 5 Mel - way too cold. We tend to get scared off by cold weather here!
But I am wearing a gorgeous purple scarf I purchased in Lindau - on what is a very cold 14C day here in Adelaide. Visited LIndau for a day about 8 years ago and really still want to return to the whole region. Annhig: yes indeed. And only last night at the pub after choir rehearsal a fellow chorister was enthusiastically recommending a visit to Cornwall as soon as we are allowed to travel. So before I had read your response (above) you were in my thoughts. Doubly clinches it. |
Originally Posted by love_travel_Aus
(Post 17304479)
No Chocolate at No 5 Mel - way too cold. We tend to get scared off by cold weather here!
But I am wearing a gorgeous purple scarf I purchased in Lindau - on what is a very cold 14C day here in Adelaide. Visited LIndau for a day about 8 years ago and really still want to return to the whole region. Annhig: yes indeed. And only last night at the pub after choir rehearsal a fellow chorister was enthusiastically recommending a visit to Cornwall as soon as we are allowed to travel. So before I had read your response (above) you were in my thoughts. Doubly clinches it. |
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