Sunday Night Restaurant in Florence
Dec 13th, 2004, 06:15 PM
#22
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"Authentic" in Florence has sadly become an oxymoron. Does anybody remember Florence in the late seventies when everybody shared the bathroom in the hall, very few locals spoke English, and Mamma's fabulous trattoria meal cost $12, including wine? Ah, the good old days.
In terms of tourist to local ratios, Florence is worse than Venice because the art is more popular and it's a much more affordable city to visit. It seems the entire city has become one big Piazza San Marco. Natives will tell you that January through March is the only time tourism is tolerable. The tour buses and the umbrella brigade begin at Easter and get worse with each new day.
Florence is remarkably small and, in order for any new restaurant to open and succeed, it must cater to tourists. Even if it didn't and it turns out to be good, word would spread so quickly, it wouldn't stand a chance at being non-touristy for long.
Well known food critics swear there's plenty of mediocre food in Florence. If your tastes are simple or Olive Garden makes you smile, most places will please and satisfy and even seem authentic (after all, you're eating in Florence).
Most American tourists don't want to work at language when they're tired and hungry so they seek out and often recommend restaurants that cater specifically to English speaking patrons. A few of these restaurants are, indeed, very good but many are genuinely lackluster.
It's very easy to find great food in every one of Italy's most popular cities and you don't really need to break the bank to eat well. But you do need to research and take the time to read.
In terms of tourist to local ratios, Florence is worse than Venice because the art is more popular and it's a much more affordable city to visit. It seems the entire city has become one big Piazza San Marco. Natives will tell you that January through March is the only time tourism is tolerable. The tour buses and the umbrella brigade begin at Easter and get worse with each new day.
Florence is remarkably small and, in order for any new restaurant to open and succeed, it must cater to tourists. Even if it didn't and it turns out to be good, word would spread so quickly, it wouldn't stand a chance at being non-touristy for long.
Well known food critics swear there's plenty of mediocre food in Florence. If your tastes are simple or Olive Garden makes you smile, most places will please and satisfy and even seem authentic (after all, you're eating in Florence).
Most American tourists don't want to work at language when they're tired and hungry so they seek out and often recommend restaurants that cater specifically to English speaking patrons. A few of these restaurants are, indeed, very good but many are genuinely lackluster.
It's very easy to find great food in every one of Italy's most popular cities and you don't really need to break the bank to eat well. But you do need to research and take the time to read.
Dec 14th, 2004, 09:51 AM
#23
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If you are looking for a trattoria where the dining room is filled with many of the same locals - including many if the Carabinieri who walk across the street for lunch and dinner - try Tratorria Roberto on Via Castellani. Franco grows his oun vegatables and herbs, mama makes the tiramisu and the two sons wait tables. Their melanzane is wonderful, as is the polpo. And is the fresh pasta with lemon sause is on the menu, don't miss it!
I have been dining with this family for 8 years, nearly every night I am in Florence, and I love it here.
I do not care for Il Latini - mediocre food, abrasive service and too touristy for my taste - and Quattro Leone is nice for what it is but I will tell you they definitely treat their Italian patrons better than the tourists with larger portions, better prices, and what annoyed me most, they will do NO special requests, however small and insignificant.
To each his own, however, and I do understand that.
I have been dining with this family for 8 years, nearly every night I am in Florence, and I love it here.
I do not care for Il Latini - mediocre food, abrasive service and too touristy for my taste - and Quattro Leone is nice for what it is but I will tell you they definitely treat their Italian patrons better than the tourists with larger portions, better prices, and what annoyed me most, they will do NO special requests, however small and insignificant.
To each his own, however, and I do understand that.
