Sunburned in Paris...
 

Hey Fodorites! I!|m just back from a week long visit to Paris (May 22-May 29). The trip could not have been better weather-wise. In fact, I spent so much time walking and sitting in the sunshine my face was sunburned and my arms got a farmer!|s tan from my short sleeved shirts! The following is my trip report. It!|s likely going to be long and detailed-just to warn you!!

First things first. I!|m a 23 year old female and this was my first international trip alone. I was so scared at the thought of traveling to France alone (I don!|t speak French other than hello, thank-you, good bye-the basics). I love to travel though and went to Paris December 2001 so I knew the city a little bit. I didn!|t know if I!|d be able to handle everything by myself. I!|m terribly disorganized and lose stuff at home a lot so I was afraid I!|d lose my money, passport, debit card, airplane ticket etc. The thing is I had the BEST time ever-and didn!|t lose anything-I am so impressed with myself! This trip was so much more enjoyable than my first Parisian trip. I think long sunny days played a major role in that. I guess the week before I was there it was cold and rainy.

Quick notes before my itinerary: saying !?Bonjour/Bonsoir!? and !?Parlez vous anglais!? when you want something works wonders. I only ran across one girl who actually said NO when I asked (in French) if she spoke English!KThat story later.

The French men are out in force if you are a single mademoiselle walking about the city (and I must say I dressed conservatively in jeans, t-shirt, and cardigan). Whether the men are middle-aged or young, I found that when just walking about the city the men will first say !?Bonjour!? and if that doesn!|t get a response !?Hello.!? Also, hearing that I was !?beautiful!? was a daily occurrence, however, this wasn!|t the case when I traveled to Paris with my boyfriend! ?? When I tried to shake guys!| hands they would kiss mine! I even had one middle-aged guy kiss me on the cheek and want me to return the kiss! I know that is the French thing to do, however, I was not comfortable kissing a stranger on the cheek!

On the subject of clothes, I figured since I didn!|t know anyone I didn!|t have to try to impress them with my clothing. I even wore white sneakers with grey pants and a black shirt-horror of horrors-the day I went to Versailles. For 7 days I brought: 3 long sleeve shirts, 4 short sleeved shirts, 2 cardigans, 1 pair of jeans, 1 pair of grey slacks, nightgown, socks, underwear, black shoes, and white sneakers. All this, with toiletries, umbrella, 2 books, water bottle, and misc. all fit in one school-size backpack.

I didn!|t like the taste of Parisian water (tap or bottled) on the last trip so I brought along some small generic already sweetened lemonade tubs from Wal-mart to mix with the water. I mixed the drink in a sports water bottle from home. This worked out well for me.

I brought 2 instant cameras with me instead of the !?real!? camera because I was afraid I!|d lose the real one-see above. My advice-take more cameras/film with you than you think you!|ll need. I went through the 2 cameras by the fourth day and the extra instant camera I got was 8.50 euro-which was mid-price. They had a 6.50 and 11.50 alternative. This, of course, is much more expensive than most single instant cameras cost in the states.

I only ate in a restaurant once during this trip. My hotel included a free buffet breakfast everyday so I filled up on that. I bought snacks at grocery stores or sidewalk vendors along the way. I avoided restaurants on this trip because I didn!|t enjoy any restaurant we ate at in Paris on the last trip, preferring quick sandwiches, quiche, pizza etc. Also, I am embarrassed about not knowing French, although I speak Spanish, so I wanted to avoid the restaurant situation for that fact. Not eating in restaurants also allowed me to save time and money.

I wore a money belt with debit card, copy of passport/driver!|s license, and euros in it. Carried passport in zippered compartment of backpack because of frequently needing it the first day of travel. I ordered 300 euros before my trip so I would not have to use my debit card for anything except the hotel bill. As a single female, I did not want to be accessing ATMs for euros and worrying about who saw me get cash and where I put it. For me, keeping a small amount of cash in a wallet and the rest in my money belt worked great for me. Everyday I would come back to the hotel and balance my expenditures with the remaining money. I ended up spending about 240 euro in seven days for everything except hotel and airplane tickets. The only problem I had was when I needed more money than I thought for the day and had to find somewhere to get the money out of my money belt. Bathrooms are of course great for this, however, I wasn!|t always near one. My solution? Go into a photo booth at the metro station (since I was already there) and since I!|m tall enough just turn my back and access my money belt. Don!|t know if anyone could tell what I did-but nobody bothered me about it.

Wednesday, May 21 Fly to Paris
El Paso to Houston-uneventful which is always positive
At the Houston airport I called my bank and told them I would be using my debit card in Paris (thanks everyone for that idea). The woman I spoke to said that was a great idea especially since I have a joint account with my boyfriend and he would still be using his debit card in the states.
Houston to Paris-after a 4 hour layover I was finally on the completely full plane. We were on the runway about to take off when the pilot says we have a problem. A minute later he comes back on and says we have an electrical problem and we have to return to the gate to have it fixed. Back at the gate everyone got out of their seats and it looked like a cocktail party. Once the problem was fixed about 45 minutes later, the pilot said we!|ll be taking off and not to worry because !?We have a good plane.!? His saying that made me worry! Flew Continental airlines and they did have good customer service. Because we had to wait for them to fix the plane they gave us a coupon for a free alcoholic drink or 250 ff miles. The movie options on Continental were not very good though (to me). Actually found the radio station more entertaining than movie/television shows!

Thursday, May 22
Paris! Thankful to have made it with my fear of flying and all. Continental had something I!|d never seen on American Airlines or British Airways flights. Continental showed a movie about the airport and the city before we got off the plane which was really helpful! It was also good to hear the French pronunciation of words. Glad we didn!|t have to take a bus to the gate like last trip to Paris. My plan for Paris was just to take everything slow and figure everything out. It was totally weird to be back to a place I was at a year and a half ago with my boyfriend who wasn!|t there this time. No problem with customs and immigration. Had not checked any luggage so getting out was a breeze. In addition to the free alcohol or ff miles for the plane problems, Continental had also given us a 5 minute international calling card. This was great to call my mom and boyfriend and let them know I made it safely.

Bought my RER ticket-7.70 euro-and made sure the train was going to my stop-Chatelet Les Halles. I kept my backpack on my lap rather than putting it in the luggage rack. Got to my stop and even after looking at my map I walked in the wrong direction ??! Figured out my mistake and easily found the hotel after that.

Hotel Emeraude Des Victoires in the 1st arrondissement. Could not be better located! A few blocks to the Louvre and Pompidou. 5 minutes (at most) walk to metro and RER Chatelet Les Halles. The hotel is on a quiet side street and close to groceries and restaurants. Only problem? Construction is taking place in the attached building next door. I could hear the jackhammer and other construction noises from 9:30 in the morning. The good thing is that they didn!|t do construction work at night. Night was relatively quiet. The bathroom had a large tub with shower, bidet, toilet, hair dryer, and pedestal sink. The bathroom made noises as water passed through the pipes from the people upstairs. Solution? I slept with the bathroom door closed and ear plugs from the airplane in. Earplugs are GREAT! The rooms are soundproofed so I didn!|t hear the television or footsteps of people above me. Other downside is that there is no air conditioning although it is a 3 star hotel. Breakfast is more than adequate: yogurt, cereal, toast, hard boiled eggs, ham, cheese, breads, fruits, coffee, and juice. It was 80 euro for one person including breakfast (more than I like to pay but I booked only 2 weeks before I went). If you want to stay here, make sure to ask if construction is still taking place in the building next door.

I got a very good self-guided walking tour in my first day. I headed out for Ile de la Cite for my first taste of Berthillon ice cream. On my way, I first stopped into Notre Dame to listen to mass. Moved to tears by the singing and incense. This was my first experience watching Catholic religious service. Next, walked to No. 31 to get authentic Berthillon ice cream from the source. Decided on a double for 3.00 euro and got chocolate and vanilla. Wow-the portion size was so small! More like a dollop than a scoop! Chocolate was better IMO. I guess you pay for the experience but not something I!|d do again. Walked to a bench behind and across the street from Notre Dame. Wrote in my journal until a lady came by and laid down on the part of the bench I wasn!|t sitting on. That made me a tad uncomfortable. Used the restroom behind Notre Dame for .10 euro and then walked along the Seine to the Louvre and Tuilleries Gardens.

Sorry this message is so messed up! I edited it and previewed it but the changes were not made. In the future, I will not post from Word...sorry and thanks!

Great start, Stragic! Made me remember my first trip to Paris at 23 (except I wasn't nearly as knowledgeable as you--ain't internet great?). And I agree about the size of the scoops at Berthillon--really like just a spoonful. I also agree with eating snacks--it's no fun to eat in a restaurant by yourself, but at this stage in my life, I don't know how many more restaurant meals I'll get in Paris, so I'd better take advantage of them.

Friday, May 23
A wonderful bird-song day. Visited Pere Lachaise cemetary. I did not buy a map (sold outside the cemetary gates) because I only wanted to see Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison's gravesites. Walked around a lot and was reminded I was at a cemetary when I saw people leaving what I think was a funeral service at the Columbarium area. I found what may be the only toilet in the cemetary. It was my first experience with a toilet that is a hole in the ground-but it was free! Jim Morrison's grave was crowded and IMO not the most awe-inspiring (unless, you're a fan).

Finished at the cemetary, I took the metro to Pigalle (I had purchased a carnet of tickets that morning). I had originally planned on doing a self-guided walking tour of Monmartre from my DK Eyewitness book, however, I knew that a Paris Walks tour was about to begin so I decided to do that instead.

Taking the Paris Walks tour of Monmartre was one of the best decisions I made on my trip! I paid 7 euros for the student rate (regular rate is 10 euros). The guide, Iris, was/is amazing at storytelling! Make sure NOT to miss this tour. Found this walk better than the London Walks Jack the Ripper tour.

The tour concluded at Sacre Coeur. There are pay toilets right down the hill from the basilica (can you tell how important I think knowing where a toilet is? Wish I had knowledge of where toilets were located ahead of time so I wouldn't waste my time trying to find them!)

I wanted to climb to the top of Sacre Coeur so I went inside the basilica to find the entrance. A good mistake. I got to get a quick look around the basilica's interior before going outside to find dome entrance. The entrance to the dome and crypt is accessed by walking downstairs on the left side of the basilica (when you are facing the front of the building). There is also a sign, but signs never help me!

Climbing to the top cost 5 euros per person. I believe the crypts are free. When I was there, I did not pay money to a person but rather a machine that gave me a ticket. Make sure you have a bill that is not wrinkily if you plan to do this. It took me forever with my bill!

The view from the top of Sacre Coeur is AMAZING! There are even benches built into the wall so you can sit down for as long as you like and enjoy the view. It was virtually empty when I was up there, which was great! I love being able to stay as long as I want at places that have great views-Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur-as oppossed to being told when to leave-Pantheon, Notre Dame.

As I decended the steps into the crypt I could hear women singing. After a quick walk around the crypt (empty except for 2 other people) I went back into the basilica and sat down to listen to the service. Although I couldn't understand what was being said, it didn't matter.

When I left Sacre Coeur, I grabbed a seat on a bench near the bottom of the hill so I could look back up at Sacre Cour and the beautiful green grass and flowers that are there. I watched a group of guys try to peddle their bracelets? Just say no if you don't want to be bothered...and I didn't want to be bothered. Walked into a grocery store and bought dinner and returned to a park we had visited on the Paris Walks tour earlier that day.

The park is great-directly behind Abbesses metro stop. In this small park I sat at the "I love you" wall and watched children playing at the playground. There is a water fountain in this park if you want a free drink or refill for your water bottle.

After dinner, I walked DOWN the Abbesses metro steps instead of UP like the last time I was in Paris. Walking DOWN went a lot faster and was more enjoyable! Took metro to Concorde. Saw the fountains, obelisk, and the Arc de Triomphe in the distance. I also checked on the hours for the Magritte exhibition at the Jeu de Paume before walking back to my hotel through the Tuileries Garden.

Near my hotel, on Rue Coquillere I stopped into a small grocery store. When the owner realized I didn't speak French but was trying he asked where I was from. I said America and he said I was a "good American girl." So much for anti-Americanism in France, huh?

Love the report so far stragic! Having been a solo woman in Paris myself in February 2002 (my friend left a few days before I did), and with a solo trip to Italy, Switzerland and Germany coming up in August(well, I'll be visiting a girlfriend in Germany so will only be solo part of the time), I love hearing about other people's solo adventures.

Can't wait for the next chapter!

Saturday, May 24
This was the only gray, drizzily day I had in Paris. Because of the weather, I changed my plans and opted for the ballet at the Opera Garnier. I figured if the tickets were sold out I would at least get to see the building.

Once at the Opera, I found the ticket booth and the woman told me seats were available in all prices for the Spectacle des Jeunes Danseurs. I opted for the mid-price seat at 19 euros. I had two hours before the ballet started so I set out to find Galaries Lafayette. I walked down every wrong road imaginable-even with my map! Turns out GL is directly BEHIND the Opera-I felt so dumb-but I know this for next time!

I had missed breakfast at the hotel so I was really ready to eat. I noticed that GL had a self-service restaurant/cafeteria on the 6th? floor so I knew that would be great for me-NO FRENCH! GL has a SPECTACULAR interior and it smells DIVINE inside!

Upstairs at the cafeteria, I bought a pasta with white sauce and ham by pointing at it :). I also bought a chocolate mousse(?) dessert with vanilla pudding around the base. This cafeteria is great and sells "real" food and sandwiches etc. but the price is high. 7.50 euros for one plate of pasta. 3.50 euros for dessert. Sandwiches cost 4.50 euros here but I had seen them most often sold for 3 euros at other places. I did not buy a drink because I had my sports bottle and could pour its contents into one of the many empty glasses that were stacked around the seating area.

Found an empty table with a view of the Eiffel Tower no less! When I went to get a glass, I saw a lady getting water from a fountain and putting it in her glass. Great! I found free water and did not need to empty my bottle. Once she was finished, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get the water to come out! Oh...looked down and saw that the fountain was activated by stepping on a peddle on the floor. This trip made me realize that things take longer to figure out when you're alone (at least for me anyway!)

Lunch was good-not great-but I wasn't expecting fine dining. Walked back to the Opera where every time an usher gave me directions to my seat (in French) I guess I looked confused and they told me in English where to go. Upon entering my box seat at Number 16 seat 3, I thought I had made a good decision. However, I will NEVER sit in a box seat again if I can avoid it. I think it is definitely worth the extra money to be able to see the entire stage straight on as well as the cieling of the theatre, opera, wherever. I had such great seats at the theatre productions in London last December that this seat was really disappointing. I was close to the stage, yes, but I didn't get to enjoy the beauty of the Opera Garnier's interior as much as I would have otherwise. Also, I believe this was the only ballet performance during my visit, however, I would recommend spending money to see a professional ballet if you have the option rather than this type of performance by young people. I realize this is why the tickets were so reasonable, however, I would spend more money for a better seat and a more elaborate production next time (if that option is available).

After the Opera, I bought my 5 day museum pass at the metro station. Although I am a student and could get discounted rates, I like the idea of being able to skip in line. Compared to my last Parisian visit, however, the lines were extremely shorter this time. I wonder if it is because tourism is down or if I hit the right sites at the right time. So, for this trip the museum pass did save me some time in line (ALWAYS good) but not as much as my last visit.

I took the metro to the Pompidou Center where I took the escalator all the way to the top. What a view! Forgot to mention last time that this is another wonderful place where you can stay as long as you want and admire the view...from the inside of a building too which is good depending on how hot/cold it is outside. If you don't want to stand around looking at the view, and who prefers to stand when they can sit?, you can find a seating area by walking towards the area where temporary exhibitions are held. There you'll find some of the most comfortable couches and chairs ever-all with a GREAT view!

I love modern art, so after resting in a chair for awhile I looked around. My favorite were the 2 Dali's and 2 Magritte's there. I just sat on a bench and stared at them...yes, my jaw probably was on the floor! There is another piece there that I found SO HILARIOUS called The Suspects. "Silent Night" is playing but it a grating version (almost like fingernails on a chalkboard) while a spotlight shines on different "suspects" like a dog, human, elephant...I know, it's one of those things you have to see/hear to appreciate but I thought I'd throw it in!

On my way back to the hotel, I was walking down Rue Rambuteau and stopped at a sidewalk cafe that sold quiche, breads, and pizza. Here again, the locals were extremely nice to me and spoke to me in English when they realized I didn't speak French. Nothing about politics was mentioned. We talked about the various parts of the United States and how he was going to be studying here next year while he heated up my Quiche Lorraine. He told me I was very polite and I smiled the entire way back to the hotel.

Stragic, I agree--modern art is so much fun. Next time you need to visit the Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris on avenue President Wilson. I think it's free because it's a city museum.

LVSue-Thanks for the tip on the Museum of Modern Art! I've never heard of it before and it sounds like something I'd really enjoy.

stragic,

Thanks for this great report. I leave on Thursday for my solo venture into Paris. Your info on costs if very helpful!

Topping a wonderful post, with many thanks for a great report.

I agree worth topping. Suze, I asked you before but did not see an answer. Did you name yourself after my favorite parisian apertif?

Sunday, May 25

Versailles today for the fountains! This was the day I decided to wear white sneakers with gray pants-and I'm still glad I did because of all the walking I did :) This was also the day when I asked the girl selling tickets if she spoke English and she said "No." Well, that meant I had to get my ticket in French. Off the top of my head "Un billet ROUNDTRIP Versailles Rive Gauche-Chateau Versailles." I got a ticket but it was not "ROUNDTRIP." I knew this because it cost 2.45 euro and I had learned from a Fodorite that roundtrip is about 5 euros from Paris to Versailles.

When you are trying to go to the Chateau de Versailles watch the signs CAREFULLY in the RER C station because if you're not you may end up at the other end of the line-Versailles Chantiers. Just a heads up-go in the direction of Rive Gauche. Also, make sure the train you're on is actually going to the end of the line at Rive Gauche. Here's my story:

A train was just about to depart when I reached the RER C platform. Rather than sticking to my original idea of going slow and making sure I knew what I was doing and where I was going, I hopped on the train without carefully evaluating the board that lists the train's stops. Just after me two Asain girls got on the train and asked if this train went to Versailles. I said "Yes...I hope so." But by the time I had the I hope so out the doors were closed and we were moving. They looked paniced when I said that. My second philosophy-when I don't follow my first about taking it slow and figuring things out-is that you can ALWAYS get off the train and find the right one.

These girls were freaked out though! They went up and down the aisle with their map asking if this was the right train. I just sat on the train writing in my journal until I felt a tap on my shoulder and the two girls said we have to get off at this stop. I totally was NOT thinking and followed them! Once off the train at Issy, they told me we had to get off here and wait for the next train because the one we were on did not terminate at the Chateau. I still don't know if the first train actually did end up at Rive Gauche but everything turned out well in the end (I made it to Versailles) and I got to speak to these two girls (early 20's) who turned out to be university students from South Korea on a two month trip across Europe. They said that I should visit S. Korea and eat a famous food there called kimchi. They even told me that Paris was dangerous and I should be careful about pickpockets since I was carrying a backpack! :) I had to smile when they said that because girls my age (not my mom) were telling me to be careful!

Once at the Rive Gauche station, a crowd of people exited the train. There were two many people to properly exit through the correct turnstiles so my new friends and I (and several others) crouched under the incorrect turnstiles in order to escape the mess. At the McDonald's across the street from the station, the girls and I exchanged names and said goodbye. They were going to have to wait in line for their tickets whereas I had my museum pass.

Absolutely no problem finding the entrance for museum pass holders-I believe it is entrance B. This was one location where having the museum pass to skip lines was invaluable! Once inside I found the State Apartments and Queen's Apartments-there were so many people-it's true what you hear about crowds (at least on a Sunday around noon.) You do not have to pushed along with the masses if you do not want to be. Because I was alone I just staked by claim on a spot and stood there observing. If you're lucky you can catch some commentary from tourguides passing by. Does anyone know if Versailles offers free guided tours? I know they have tours that cost money. Either way, I was lucky to overhear some commentary in English and Spanish that I could make out and it did contribute to my understanding of what I was looking at. The Hall of Mirrors-I really couldn't appreciate it because of all the people, however, the gardens outside the windows looked very inviting! My favorite room of those covered by the museum pass is the Queen's Bedroom. An unexpected find was David's painting "The coronation of Napoleon I and Josephine." I really liked this painting from seeing it in books, however, seeing it in person (with its immense size) was amazing!

Once you exit the stairs from the Queen's Apartments and go outside you will be near a toilet-so use it! It cost .40 euro to use. Next, I walked down the hill towards the Fountain of Neptune. Before you walk down the hill, you have the option of riding the trolley/train around the premises but for a fee. I decided to walk. Once I reached the bottom of the hill I saw a gate you can enter/exit from without a ticket and a few shops were right there. Exited and looked for a grocery store or sandwich place but did not see one. There are a few restaurants right here but again that wasn't for me. Went back in the gates and sat on a bench watching the Fountain of Neptune-no water yet-and had some snacks I'd brought we me. ***Bring more food than a bag of chips and some chocolate if you don't want to buy the expensive food at Versailles.***

I decided to keep walking to the Petit and Grand Trianons. This is a long walk, so keep that in mind. However, I believe you can appreciate things more when you're walking by them rather than driving by them. Plus, as I walked down the tree lined lane I could stop when I wanted and take pictures of the horses in the pasture next to the lane-something you can't do when you ride the trolley. This walk was completely lovely! Oh yeah, another thing about the trolley. If you ride it, you get to the Trianons with other people so you are likely to have a group with you as you are looking around the buildings. Although these two places were far less crowded than the chateau, I liked the fact that since I didn't arrive with a group I was fortunate to have rooms to myself at times. It does come down to lucky timing though.

You can/must check your bags when you look at the Trianons which is nice. Just remember to take what you need: camara, journal, whatever so you don't have to go back for it. I prefer the Trianons over the chateau simply because there were fewer people there and I could appreciate it more. These places are covered by your museum pass-so DON'T buy tickets for them if you have the pass. There are toilets (.40 euro) near The Grand Trianon and they sell candy bars in all the restrooms for 1 euro. I was thrown off a bit by the selling of food in a restroom but was hungry enough to buy a candy bar!

I walked back towards the chateau but saw a sign that said I was near The Grand Canal so decided I would go look at that. I could hear classical music playing and see over the tree tops that the fountains had started. At the Grand Canal you'll find a great place to sit on the grass and watch people in row boats sail by or you can watch the fountains for free from here! The catch is you're not very close to the fountains and you cannot view all of the little ones that are scattered throughout the gardens. However, if saving 6 euros per adult ticket (Gardens are not covered by the museum pass) appeals to you then just watch from the Grand Canal or you can also view Neptune's Fountain-with water :) for free as well. Continued in a further edition :)

Here is the long overdue conclusion to this trip report...

I sucked it up and bought the 6 euro ticket to the gardens. Glad I did! I realized walking in the gardens that I hadn’t seen Paris until this trip. The last trip we took, I really didn’t see or feel Paris like this time. I wonder why?

After walking through the gardens, I ran to visit the chateau again. Got in just before closing and did the same tour through the building as I did this morning. Versailles was MUCH emptier in the afternoon. I stood in the Hall of Mirrors for a long time and I took a photo when it was as clear as it was going to get. After finishing the tour for a second time, I saw a bookstore that was still open so I bought a picture book of Versailles-duh-I should have bought it before so I would have had more information on what I was looking at. Either way, now I can look at it and plan the NEXT visit!

As I left Versailles, I walked backward admiring the chateau. I needed to buy my train ticket back to Paris. I got behind 4 American teens crossing the road to the station and overheard one of the girls say they needed tickets too. I followed them and one girl told me you just have to say Paris and you will get a ticket that will allow you to go anywhere in the city. For me, saying “Paris” was a lot easier than trying to construe a sentence in French.

Took the train to Chatelet Les Halles and bought chocolate bread on the way. Returned to the hotel where I put my stuff up. I thought my Eyewitness book said Pompidou was open until 10 pm on Sunday so I walked that way, stopping by the same quiche place as last night.

I almost went to the wrong vendor but the guy who previously sold me the quiche waved to me from across the street to come to his shop. I bought another quiche and a coke and was off after my new friend asked if I was coming back tomorrow. The quiche was on a paper plate this time so I sat in front of the Pompidou-it was a beautiful Parisian blue sky with sun and shadows. As I was eating my food, some guy came over to me so I said “Laizze moi sil vous plait.” I think that translates to leave me alone please. It was the first time I said that on the trip and it came out easier than I had imagined.

After finishing my picnic dinner, I went into the Pompidou. After speaking to a museum worker, I found out that the Pompidou had closed at 8 pm. I left the building and went to the fountain with modern art that is on the west side of the museum. I walked back to my hotel a different way, however, when I saw just groups of guys standing around, I changed direction and walked to the hotel the way I knew.

I stopped at St. Eustache and noticed that one side is clean and one side is dirty. Hmm. Back at the hotel I watched the French version of The Firm before going to sleep. Today was a good day and I feel like I know Paris more. It feels easier. I love the sunshine until 9:30 at night. Sunday in Paris is a good day because it is calmer.

Two years to complete a report! That's got to be a record!

Better late than never (hopefully)...

Monday, May 26

I stood in line to climb the Notre Dame towers from 10:45-11:45 am. I was up and back down by 12:15. I wanted to stay up there as long as I possibly could because of the time spent waiting.

At one point, I had the bridge section between the two towers to myself-before a security guard told me to move on so the next group could come through. It was absolutely gorgeous with the sun shining up there. Saw gargoyles and Sacre Cour and the Eiffel Tower among other landmarks. It was such a nice weather day!

Onto the Cluny Museum and Pantheon. In the Cluny Museum I stopped in the King’s Room (I think that’s the name). The light in the white room was stunning. I appreciated these bodiless heads and headless bodies more this time around.

After the Cluny, I had a picnic of chips and lemonade. Went to the Pantheon and bought ticket to climb to the top. I did a quick walk around inside and down to the crypts where Voltaire, Rousseau, and both Curries-Marie and Pierre-are buried. Back to the entrance to wait to climb the 206 steps to the top.

WOW! Climbing the Pantheon was AMAZING! Such a view-inside and out. After the Pantheon, I visited St. Etienne du Mont. It is a beautiful church and not crowded. Next, I picnicked in the Luxembourg Gardens having first visited a grocery store that only sold frozen food. They did sell cookies to go with the ice cream so I bought those to eat with my chips and lemonade. My picnic site overlooked the Palace du Luxembourg and I had a great place to rest my feet. Ahhh…to sit down.

I headed to the Louvre next where I meant to see the Mona Lisa first, but Venus de Milo wouldn’t let me. After walking through THE SAME gallery back and forth 3 TIMES, I was finally on my way to Mona. But as I was climbing the stairs to her wing, Venus whispered my name and I turned around and saw her nude figure.

Before I could look closely at Venus, however, a bench to sit on called my name louder! Feet…need…a…break! I want my pictures to be good but my memories to be better.

I was able to view Venus up close because there are no crowds-very similar to the lack of crowds at Versailles. I love an empty museum! I ended up seeing Winged Victory before Mona too. I wonder what Winged Victory’s face looked like because everyone admires her headless. I found it ironic that she’s lost her head, arms and feet yet is still named Victory.

I was able to walk right up to the Mona Lisa and leaned on the barrier. Mona won the staring contest I had with her. I guess I beat Winged Victory by default (no eyes).

I walked back to the hotel watching an amazingly beautiful sunset and blue sky. I love to see the blue sky over Paris buildings. Today was a really good day but a BIG walking day.

Stragic -- thanks for a great report on Paris! Lots of good tips. We're going in July for first time for 7 nights and we've been wondering if that's too long a time in Paris (before we head out to the countryside). But after reading your report.....I can see that having built-in time to appreciate the city without rushing from one site to another is the key to enjoying Paris. Thanks again.

Great trip report!!

I didn't know you could climb to the top of the Pantheon!

sandi-You could climb to the top when I was there-it's definately worth doing.

Tuesday, May 27

Magritte is AMAZING! I absolutely love his work. Brilliant. Magritte’s work was displayed as part of a temporary exhibition at the Jeu de Paume. Magritte is a genius. I planned on visiting the Orsay first but they were on strike.

While having a picnic on a grassy lawn in front of Hôtel National des Invalides, I saw crazy French lovers making out. I’ve changed my mind about public displays of affection. Making out in public is cool-BUT-only if you’re in Paris. It made me wish I had someone to love on in Paris.

After lunch, I visited the Rodin Museum. The gardens were really beautiful with fully bloomed roses. I was not entirely impressed with the Rodin Museum until I found two Van Gogh paintings hanging inside. This was an especially nice find since the Orsay was closed today.

After touring the inside of the museum, a large house really, I went to the back gardens past the fountains and found a spot to rest on one of 10 chaise lounges. I found this amazing and relaxing although the chaises are wooden without cushions and a bit hard. Some people were able to actually sleep in the chairs. I, however, took the opportunity to take my shoes and socks off and write in my journal. It was like being in someone’s backyard but with strangers.

I next toured the inside of Hôtel National des Invalides viewing Napoleon’s tomb from both the upper and lower levels. Upon leaving the museum, I watched a demonstration parade down the street. I found that to be pretty cool since I never see that in my small town. I guess this demonstration explains why I’ve seen so many police out.

The clouds were like Magritte’s as I sat on the Champs de Mar and picniced dead center of the Tour Eiffel. Amazingly amazing. I am so glad I chose this spot to picnic at. A guy approached me and asked in Spanish if I knew where the Arc de Triomphe was…I think I pointed him in the right direction.

I laid down in the grass to look at the Eiffel Tower but felt fat with my money belt on under my jeans. All the change in my pockets didn’t help either!

I felt I was getting sunburned sitting here. The sun needed to go lower or I needed sunscreen to stop my face from burning. The grass was as green as I thought it would be, but not as lush. It’s pretty patchy.

However, it was so spectacular laying down looking at the Eiffel Tower that I thought, “This is the best thing that’s happened to me. This is my thing. I am in my element here just totally chilling out. This is absolutely THE BEST.”

For me, Romantic Paris is the Eiffel Tower, Versailles, or Monmartre on a sunny warm, but not hot, day. As I sat looking at the Eiffel Tower, a French guy invited himself to sit with me and I heard the best pick up line ever, “Is your mother as beautiful as you.” After talking for a few minutes, I left-making sure I hadn’t somehow been victim of a pick pocket. Everything was fine, and it just shows that not everyone, even in a big city, is bad.

Back at the hotel, the BBC announced that Paris airports had no flights today because of a strike. I would love to stay in Paris longer but not because my flight is delayed due to strike.

Wednesday, May 28

I was up and out of the hotel room just as the maids were coming in. I went inside St. Eustache since I walk past it everyday. It was a great day for viewing stained glass.

I walked on towards the Pompidou where I sat in a comfy purple chair underneath the air conditioning vent on the very top floor of the building before going on to look at the artwork. This spot might be one of my favorite places in Paris.

It is great to sit and look at the view of Sacre Cour. This trip I have really taken to heart what someone on fodors.com wrote, “Don’t stand when you can sit and don’t sit when you can lay down.” That adage is so true and makes for a better trip.

Leaving the Pompidou, I saw an older couple with 2 sock monkeys dressed in blue cardigans tied over their shoulders and black berets on. The couple had their picture taken with the monkeys and said this is what happens when you don’t have kids. I thought, I would like to come to Paris with my mom before I’m old.

Onto St. Chapelle which is definitely better in the sunshine. I cared more for the stained glass colors than for the actual depictions (the details were small and hard to see). Looking up at the colors is dizzying. It seemed funny to me that the wealthy had to walk UP stairs to the nicer chapel. You’d think they make servants do that.

I walked from Saint Chapelle to La Samaritaine department store but the Panorama view was closed. Shopped for some jewelry but found nothing I really wanted for the cost.

After leaving the store empty handed, I had my first real French language interaction with a teen girl selling ice cream on the street. All in French, I asked her how much for a popsicle, flavors, exchanged money and said goodbye. Wow! That felt cool.

I had a picnic lunch outside the Louvre before going inside to check my bag (which was free). I think everyone should check their bags at museums because it is much more enjoyable. Saw some of the same things as before, Mona Lisa, Venus, and Winged Victory…but you can never really see them enough.

In the Tuileries Gardens I rested on my way to the Champs Elysee and Arc de Triomphe. I needed food, a drink and rest. Although it was a long day, I knew I would be thankful I saw everything again. After a quiche and coke for 7 euros from a store on the Champs Elysee, I stood atop the Arch de Triomphe viwing the Eiffel Tower as the burning red sun set.

I cried at the sight of Monmartre and Sacre Cour from the Arch de Triomphe because I am so blessed and lucky and thankful that I have had this super great opportunity.

I took the metro to the Eiffel Tower and ran to catch the 10:30 pm elevator to the very top. I think the Champs Elysee looks prettier at Christmas time from atop the Eiffel Tower because it is decorated with white lights. I caught the last elevator down the tower and ran to catch the metro and ran back to the hotel-I was back just after midnight. I was very sleepy but had to pack for my flight home tomorrow.