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-   -   Suggestions for my Italy trip? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/suggestions-for-my-italy-trip-1384442/)

ltr Jun 8th, 2017 10:46 AM

Suggestions for my Italy trip?
 
This might shock some of you, but Italy has never really been on my bucket list,so I have never researched traveling there, BUT the Norwegian $400 non stop round trip airfare from LAX to Rome changed my mind so my DD, SIL and 2 little GS ages 4 and 5 are off on an adventure in March. They have traveled with me internationally a few times, and the little ones do ok on long flights.

We will have 14 days on the ground, which equates to 12 full days. I am thinking of Rome for a few days, a train to Venice for a couple of days, before heading back to Rome for a few more days, but would love to hear others suggestions on where we should go. Nothing except airfare has been booked.

We are looking for a leisure type trip with lots of gelato and chasing pigeons in the piazza along with some museum visits, farmers markets, meandering down streets, etc.

Suggestions on what might interest the kids? Area in Rome to stay? We are hoping to book an apartment that is close to restaurants. We want good food, but will probably need to look for places the kids would be welcome.

I have some tour books and we are researching on line and thought I would ask for some ideas from you as well. (That is part of the on line research)

massimop Jun 8th, 2017 11:08 AM

Italy is totally fine with kids in restaurants (since obviously you won't be going to Michelin stars) but the dinner hour is very late: 7.30/8pm, and restaurants don't open before that. So highly recommend that you get an apartment for your family. You will have more room that way, and can even get a place with two bathrooms, which will help with your size group. Loads of professional agencies to choose from, and AirBnb is good for Italy.

Venice is a children't playground, with no end of fascinating things to do and see. However, the famous tidal floods of Venice that can inundate parts of the lagoon city in certain weather conditions can be very active in March, so be sure to get an apartment that is not in a typical flood zone. Best best is to stay near the Rialto Bridge area.

Rome has a few famous sights that are not kid-friendly simply because they get so crowded that knee-high kids can't see a thing. Hardest with small children are the Vatican museums, and it might be the case that the kids just really don't "get" many of the ruins like the Forum. If the adults really don't want to miss these sights then maybe taking turns babysitting is the way to go. There is really no problem taking kids inside churches to look at artwork or crypts or mosaics. No one will mind if they talk loud or run so long as services are not happening right at that moment. Museums of art are less kid-friendly, so again, you might want to take turns babysitting.

tuscanlifeedit Jun 8th, 2017 11:18 AM

In Venice, Campo Santa Margherita is a gathering place for families with small children. There are frequently kids playing there. If I had two little ones, I would try to stay near there. It's very central and there are lots of family eateries nearby.

tuscanlifeedit Jun 8th, 2017 11:20 AM

Ah, if the edit function were here.

I thought of something else: a great place to take kids in Rome is Ostia Antica. I've seen kids romping and running about there, having a great time exploring the ancient ruins. It's nothing like the Forum and it's crowds.

ltr Jun 8th, 2017 11:55 AM

Thanks so much for the info. I have always used VRBO or Homeaway but will check out AirBNB this time. Venice info is helpful and will start looking for a place near Campo Santa Margerita.

The boys are very active, so limiting their time in art museums is the best, but still want them to share some of the sights.

tuscanlifeedit Jun 8th, 2017 01:15 PM

ltr: active kids are what I was thinking of when I suggested Ostia Antica. It's a straight shot by train from central Rome, and only takes about 30 minutes. I think they could run their legs off there. I would pick a less crowded time to go, but any time will be less crowded than central Rome.

PalenQ Jun 8th, 2017 01:18 PM

Well about trains to Venice and back -to save lots of money be sure to book really early to nab discounted but limited in number tickets - www.trenitalia.com - book your own online. for lots on Italian trains and tickets - www.seat61.com (great tips on booking discounted tickets); www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com

frencharmoire Jun 8th, 2017 02:58 PM

It really is not necessary to go to museums in Rome to show kids or anybody the sights. The churches are overflowing with spectacular art, both inside and outside. The piazze have many fountains, and there is public sculpture everywhere. If you do want to take the kids to the museum on a rainy day, consider the Centrale Montemartini

http://www.romeing.it/centrale-montemartini-museum/

Your children can run their legs off in the Forum or any of the piazze of Rome, including St Peters or the piazza Navona, or the other smaller neighborhood piazze, plus the gardens of the villa Borghese, or the Spanish Steps. In March, Rome will not be as crowded as other times of year but the daylight hours will be shorter, and it will be cooler. You might not want to get on trains to take trips far from the apartment.

PalenQ Jun 8th, 2017 03:22 PM

and they'll love gelato pit stops every few hours...

ltr Jun 8th, 2017 03:52 PM

The boys have been in several Museums, churches, temples nd shrines in Paris and in Japan as well as here in Los Angeles so it is not something new to them, but sculptures, ruins, and freedom to enjoy themselves will make this a more pleasant experience for all of us.

Centrale Montemartini looks interesting and I will add it to the short list.

Pal, I bought the Rick Steves new Italy book,but forgot how I really do not like the set up of his books, but will look on his website as well as Seat 61, which a really like for train travel.

Ostia Antica is exactly the kind of place they would like.

I am going to get them both inexpensive digital cameras with lots of memory.
Maybe create a treasure hunt or two.

The oldest likes to play "statue" when we take walks where he runs ahead and finds a place to stand very still until I walk by and comment what a nice statue it is, so maybe I can get them to recreate poses of statues we find.

I don't mind the short daylight hours in March, especially for a leisure trip, but eating late may be a problem for the boys, so an apartment is definitely in our favor.

Any other ideas?

suze Jun 8th, 2017 04:03 PM

All I know is I LOVE Venice, so I'd spend more than a few days there with your amount of time. There is plenty there kids would LOVE too and not necessarily museums or churches.

And I wouldn't do Rome at both the beginning and end of the trip, just because to me it seems a hassle getting the accommodations twice in the same city.

ltr Jun 8th, 2017 05:11 PM

Suze, the only reason we are doing Rome at both the beginning and end of the trip is because the tickets are round trip in and out of Rome.

I guess I could look into Ryanair to fly into Rome and catch the flight back home, but we have found that spending the last night or two in a luxury hotel and enjoying a couple of really good dinners ends our vacations on a high note.

I will think seriously about more time in Venice.
I have tasked my DD and SL with looking into places as well, so we will see what we come up with.

ellenem Jun 8th, 2017 07:22 PM

Suze is suggesting you head to Venice as soon as you arrive in Rome to avoid an additional change of lodging. It would be a long day.

Or land in Rome ad go directly to Florence for a few days, then Venice, then ALL of your nights in Rome at the end.

In Venice restaurants open a bit earlier.

Another family-oriented neighborhood is Santa Croce. Every afternoon there are kids playing with soccer balls and scooters in Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio.

janisj Jun 8th, 2017 07:36 PM

I agree. Even having to fly R-T in/out of Rome -- I'd still put all my Rome nights together at the end.

I would travel directly on to Florence by train, stay 3 nights. Train to Venice and stay 3 or 4 nights. Train to Rome for the remainder. Fly home.

frencharmoire Jun 8th, 2017 11:16 PM

How is someone avoiding "an additional change of lodging" by going to Florence to sleep instead of sleeping in Rome?

Check into Florence/Check out Florence
Check into Venice, Check out of Venice
Check into Rome, Check out of Rome

vs.

Check into Rome, Check out of Rome
Check into Venice, Check out of Venice
Check into Rome, Check out of Rome

?

Getting off the plane from LA with young children and laying on a couple more hours of travel to get to a city you weren't planning to visit (and that isn't particularly kid friendly) doesn't sound like an enhancement of your trip, especially if you enjoy final nights at a good hotel instead of an apartment as a grand finale to your adventure. Can't see why it would be a "hassle" to book a luxury hotel in Rome.

Plus, adding Florence would cut into the leisure time you have for Venice and Rome as a family trip, and both towns are much more interesting for families, especially Venice for young children. Kids also sometimes really appreciate comng back to a foreign city they've already "conquered". So I don't see the point risking being exhausted on arrival (you have no idea whether the flight will land on time) to include a city that doesn't aleady draw you just because it's inbetween Rome and Venice. The fast train now between Venice and Rome doesn't argue for breaking up the trip.

Getting to the airport in Venice is time consuming, especially when you factor in the need to get there early for security checks. The train is simpler (kids usually love it) and while I encourage you to pack light, there are not the tight luggage restrictions the budget airlines have. There are family and other discounts available for the train tickets booked in advance.

frencharmoire Jun 8th, 2017 11:55 PM

Forgot to add this:

If you've never been to Italy before, you might not be prepared for how crowded the most famous tourist sights are. Regarding museums & kids, the issue isn't the kids maturity or interest in what's inside. It's how tall they are. Museums in Rome and Florence, or historic chapels etc., can be so crowded that small children simply cannot see much for all the people blocking their view. While crowds are overall less in March (unless there are school holidays), famous interior spaces might still be packed to such an extent kids are squeezed.

You will need to have some rainy day back up plans for your destinations, but I would gravitate toward lesser known museums (and try the scuolae in Venice, the Carmine & San Rocco, plus glassmaking & mask making activities), but when it's good weather to be outdoors, it's most enjoyable to do outdoor sightseeing, and in Rome & Venice there is plenty, enough to keep you occupied for weeks

5alive Jun 9th, 2017 12:51 AM

We took our kids to Rome when they were 5, 7 and 10. Just hanging out in the piazzas and eating gelato will make them love Rome. Then duck into a church for 10 minutes and check out the art, then run around and chase pigeons.

Tuscanlifedit is definitely right about Ostia Antica. It is a place you can explore everywhere. Be wise though--you could actually lose kids if you let them get TOO far ahead. It's a whole ruined city. Also, be sure to bring the Rick Steves Rome book. It had the best descriptions of how to find the 18-seat toilet, the big bakery oven and the tile signs that showed the different guilds.

My son who was only 5 still remembers the Colosseum and how huge it was. We hired a private guide for our family and it was one of the best decisions of that trip. Daniella can tailor her talk to your kids. I remember she mentioned what kind of snacks the audience would buy during the shows.
Here is a link: http://www.rome-tours.com/

Our kids really loved castles, so we took a day trip out to Bracciano to see the castle. Bracciano is on a lake. Decent castle and some armor that held their attention. It was easy to take the train from St. Peter's station, but we didn't time it well and at least at that time, the castle was closed mid-day for two hours. http://www.odescalchi.it/#!/en/home

There was another great looking castle at Sermoneta but it was closed in December when we were there. I am not sure that Sermoneta has a train, either, you would have to hire a driver.

SunnyHanny Jun 9th, 2017 02:19 AM

Hi, you should definitely think about spending your holidays in northern Italy. The scenery is breathtaking and you can find family friendly hotels on http://www.belvita.it/en/

ellenem Jun 9th, 2017 03:24 AM

My suggestion to travel immediately to Venice and then to Rome avoids one hotel change.

By suggesting the addition of Florence in a new paragraph, I thought it would be understandable that it was just another suggestion the OP might consider, not one that avoids a hotel change.

Sorry if anyone was confused.

janisj Jun 9th, 2017 07:31 AM

frencharmoire: I only included in Florence because I thought it would be a nice place to visit. Didn't mean to muddy the waters. Don't go ballistic. If JUST Venice and Rome is the plan then I'd travel directly on to Venice . . . thus eliminating extra to-ing and fro-ing.

PalenQ Jun 9th, 2017 01:43 PM

but would love to hear others suggestions on where we should go.>

Not sure what the brouhaha is over janis' suggestion of heading to Florence straight off and putting Florence into the itinerary.

OP wanted ideas and that's what she/he got

Nice to end up in Rome or wherever they fly out of.

I too think Florence would be a nice place to visit.

ltr Jun 9th, 2017 07:13 PM

I actually thought about Florence as well. I was going to check to see if it could be done as a day trip from Venice, or if it was feasible to add another stop.

Visiting a castle might be fun. I loved seeing the castles on the Rhine in Germany. We could also rent a car and do some short day trips from either Venice or Rome.

My SIL has had several back surgeries and is not the most mobile person so staying in one place for a few days is preferable. When we were in London he stayed at the flat a few afternoons when the walking was too much for him. That, coupled with traveling with the little ones is the reason for a leisure trip rather than trying to see every sight we can. We can always go back and see more the next time.

Thanks for reminding me about how little the boys will be able to see with the crowds in museums. Nothing spoils a day like two jet lagged bored kids.

PalenQ Jun 10th, 2017 08:40 AM

Visiting a castle might be fun.>

Can't think of any real castles convenient to your trip.

suze Jun 10th, 2017 08:57 AM

Well one of your ideas I definitely would not do! :-)

<rent a car and do some short day trips from ... Venice>

That seems like it would be a huge hassle for little reward.

From Venice if you want to add extra things besides exploring the central area, why not go by boat out to one or a couple of the islands right there? Or a day trip you can do by train?

ellenem Jun 10th, 2017 01:56 PM

If you want to do Florence as a day trip, it is closer to Rome--just 90 minutes away by train

massimop Jun 10th, 2017 02:24 PM

Italian castles only very rarely resemble Rhineland castles. And very often Italian castles have no interior decoration at all. They really developed from military forts (the Roman "castrum") or were where important political people went to hide against assasination attempts. The Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome has precisely that history, but you really must read up ahead of time to actually figure out how the castle functioned that way, because it is not automatically obvious to a visitor.

Also, take a look at Castel Sant'Angelo in pictures. Very short & stubby, and not at all the kind of "fairy-tale" castle like kids who see Disney movies expect (and the interior is bare walls of stone)

https://www.italyguides.it/en/lazio/...stel-st-angelo

In Venice the term "castle" is almost interchangeable with "palazzo", and the interiors there are more like the private mansions of very rich people, not what many American's think of as a European castle of royalty, with turrets and moats.

However, if you want that, take a day trip from Venice to Ferrara, which has everything you could possibly want in a castle, including dungeons, moat and drawbridge:

http://www.ferraraterraeacqua.it/en/...estense-castle

Both Rome and Venice will present significant challenges to your SIL if walking on uneven surfaces and frequent stair climbing bother his back. If that is the case, try looking for an apartment with an elevator in Rome and consider staying in an area with flat modern sidewalks rather than cobblestones (the Prati neighborhood).

In Venice, consider staying either close to the Grand Canal, so your SIL can make maximum use of the vaporetto on the Grand Canal or stay near the Strada Nuova, which will minimize the need to constantly climb up and down stairs to cross over canals on bridges.

5alive Jun 10th, 2017 07:05 PM

I also got the warning before my trip that castles in Italy aren't great. I don't disagree, but I wanted to take my kids to things they were interested in.

Bracciano (castle name is actually Castello Orsini-Odescalchi if you want to wiki it), is well decorated with furnishings in many rooms and has a decent amount of armor. The view over the lake was absolutely lovely. I liked some of the castles I saw in England more--but still, this is a legit castle and I don't think the boys will leave disappointed.

We did go to Castel Sant'Angelo too. Definitely agree that this is NOT what you're thinking of as a castle. I had read up on it ahead of time and kind of explained it to them. Also the armory was closed despite its own posted hours. Being so very close to the Vatican Museums, this location was a 45-min to 1 hour stop. The highlight was looking out over the Tiber River. Given your husband's mobility issues though, I'd suggest you skip it.

Saraho Jun 11th, 2017 01:30 AM

I love staying near the garden out past Arsenale in Venice. It is perfect for children. Lots of room to run, plus some playground equipment. There are several convenient vaporetto stops so not much walking is necessary. It is also close to the Grand Canal.

PalenQ Jun 11th, 2017 10:12 AM

Bracciano (castle name is actually Castello Orsini-Odescalchi if you want to wiki it), is well decorated with furnishings in many rooms and has a decent amount of armor>

yeh nice old town on large volcanic lake - Tom Cruise (?) or some famous celeb got married in it.

dreamon Jun 11th, 2017 07:42 PM

As well as playing 'statues', you might want to get the kids to count the number of lions they see in Venice. We found it got our kids looking around them more, rather than just following along. Gelato rewards were on offer to add enticement but probably weren't necessary as the kids found it fun.

dreamon Jun 11th, 2017 07:46 PM

Also, it is awfully easy to get separated in Venice - especially when it's crowded - so I would make sure the kids have your mobile number and the name/number for your hotel written down and kept in their pocket or backpack. Unlikely to be needed but made me feel more comfortable.

5alive Jun 11th, 2017 10:59 PM

Palenq--yup, Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes.

PalenQ Jun 12th, 2017 12:04 PM

5alive - I was there just after the wedding and postcards of the ceremony were being sold everywhere (at a time when they still sold postcards!)

ltr Jun 12th, 2017 01:35 PM

So many good suggestions. Thanks everyone for the ideas. I will be checking in with you soon as I read through these and pinpointing everything on a map to get a better idea. Love the thought of counting the lions. We do worry about the kids getting lost, so will make sure they have our contact info written on something. They make tags you can buy on the internet to attach to your shoe laces. Just thinking of someplace where they would not lose the info.

PalenQ Jun 12th, 2017 02:42 PM

4- and 5-yr-olds getting lost? Maybe put a GPS on them? Tags make sense.

dreamon Jun 13th, 2017 03:39 AM

What is your point, PalenQ? Clearly, you've never known the panic of realising that your child is no longer by your side.


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