BarryK

We'll be flying to Skopje in June, then the following day, leaving for Ohrid, where we'll be for a several days, then moving on to Greece.

Any suggestions on things not to miss in Macedonia? Also, does anyone know if there's any direct public transportation from Ohrid to Thessaloniki, without going back to Skopje?

sfowler

You will love Ohrid. While you are there be sure to see Sveti Jovan Kaneo [from the film "Before the Rain" -- say hello to the caretaker for me -- she's a pal of mine [Tell her the rakija drinker say hi!]

Also in Ohrid are Sv. Sophia, Plaoshnik, Samoil fortress, Sv. Climent [and the nearby icon gallery]. You can walk to all of these save Samoil. Last time we took a boat to Kaneo and walked up the cliff, then walked back. [In 2003 the going rate was about 200 denars for a half hour, but that was bargained for in Macedonian.]The boats are pretty rickety and the operators tend to smoke near gas cans, but I'm still here

You should also take a taxi or a bus to Sv. Naum -- see the church and rent a boat to go on the lake.

As for eating in Ohrid -- be sure you understand that the famed Ohrid trout are sold by the gramme. There afre pizza places -- we used to hang at Cosa Nostra, but the new fave is Don Vita. Be prepared for unusual toppings such as sour cream and the propensity of Macedonians to put ketchup on pizza. [Their ketchup is vert sweet] Be sure to sit and sip at one of the waterfront bars -- many of them turn into jazz clubs in the evening.

I don't think there is anything direct to Greece from Ohrid. I've always crossed at Gevgalia, but that was on the train that runs from Skopje. When you are coming from Macedonia the Greeks tend to give you a hard time at the border. Any crossing nearer Ohrid would probably not be convenient for Thessaloniki.

For your time in Skopje be sure to visit Skopsko Kale and the new National Gallery in an old Turkish bath. People still call it Daut pasha aman. In the evening just wander the downtown cafes near the river. Everyone "hangs at Dal Met Fu on Plostad Makedonija, but I prefer Gino's in The City Shopping Center [Gradski Trgovski Centar].

For more information you can take a look at my Skopje and Ohrid pages at Virtual Tourist:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/shrimp56

Feel free to email me at [email protected]

sfowler

Topping for BarryK.

Let me mention in passing how heartwarming it is to see this post and to realize how far the region has come since I first went there in 1997.

Macedonia IS a great tourist destination. Ask me and I can tell you about wonderful Roman ruins, charming cities, interesting museums and sites, great food & wine and even better people

BarryK

Thanks Sally. I looked at your website and you have some interesting stuff there.

I wonder if you ever made a sidetrip to Albania? As close as it is, it sounds intriguing, just from its past history...

sfowler

No I haven't traveled to Albania from Maceodnia. It is very close at Ohrid -- there may be buses to Tirana from Struga [near Ohrid and predominantly Albanian ethnicity] -- I know the diplomatic community in Tirana comes ot Ohrid for R&R, so there is motion back and forth. I've just always had too much to do in Macedonia

bethrich

Thank you all for this fascianting information. I have just found out that I will be teaching at the University in Skopje from January - June of 2006 thanks to a Fulbright award. Anyone who has or gets information on the best areas in which to live and where and how tot ravel - its would be most appreciated.

One question for BarryK and Sally - what's the best and safest way to fly to Skopje? I'll be leaving from Boston. Also, train service to Thessaloniki and Albania- any good? I have relatives in Korce, Albania, as well as in Greece.

thanks

BarryK

I booked Alitalia from Newark to Skopje via Milan. There aren't too many flights to Skopje. For a list of their daily schedule, go to http://www.airports.com.mk/ArvDep2.asp
You may be able to work backwards from there, finding flights from Boston to ?, and ? to Skopje.

There are 2 trains per day from Skopje to Thessaloniki (about 5 hours). I don't know anything about going to Albania

sfowler

I'm not sure about Albania either. Tirane is very driveable from Ohrid, although it would have to be in a car with Macedonian plates -- I'm not seeing any flights to there from Skopje. Albania is NOT ready for prime time.

bethrich I'd ask your relatives for advice -- or anyone you know who has visited them there. I have no idea where Korce is. And congrats on the Fulbright. My husband tried to get one as we would LOVE to spend a year/term in Skopje, but his interests just didn't fit into their little boxes. You'll find the university full of good people laden down by an stultifying completely uninnovative system. As a result my husband is looking at Tetova University instead -- and will probably teach there in summer 2006 with ATA. [He has done two stints in Pristina, Kosovo.]

As for neighborhoods. Almost any on the Vodno side of Skopje would be fine. Just avoid the carsija side. My "family" lives in Karpos III. I've visited people in Karpos IV, Vlae [?] and Kisela Voda. Public transportation is frequent, if pretty decrepit. Taxis are dirt cheap.

travelllover

Well, as I can see, there are only few posts for Macedonia, which is very sad because Macedonia is a really beautiful country!!! I must say that I do not live there, but I and my family spend every summer there. So, if you ever go there, I’ll tell you my favourite places and you try not to miss them!!! (I must say I did some research, mostly for the names)
If your destination is Skopje you must visit:
1. Matka- canyon on the river Treska, not so far from the city (Skopje), actually there is a bus going there… Only few minutes from the canyon there are few (5-6 I’m not sure) beautiful old churches.
2. The Stone Bridge- in the centar, on the river Vardar
3. The Fortress Kale (near the Centar)
4. St. Bogorodica and St. Kliment Ohridski (there are many beautiful churches, but don’t miss these two)
5. The Old Bazaar- with many small shops from the time of the Turks, Turkish baths, Kursumli An, Amams - Cifte Amam, Daut Pasa Amam e.t.c)
6. For shoping there are many malls, but the best ones are: GTC (Gradski trgovski - or something like that and Ramstore mall). You must check some of the coffee bars placed on the bench of the river Vardar (they’re actually in GTC)
7. If you’re young, and like going out, there are many clubs, Colosseum, Process and Trend are my kids favourites.
DID YOU KNOW THAT MOTHER TERSA WAS BORN IN SKOPJE? You can see the place where her house used to be (it’s near the city square)
Out of Skopje, here are my favourites:
Mavrovo - There is a lake and a ski centar, but I like it mostly in autumn.
And finaly Ohrid, my favourite city in Macedonia. There are enormous many old churches (check Plaoshnik - more that 15 centuries old, St. Jovan Kaneo, St. Naum - you must take a bus or taxi to get there, but it’s worth it, thust me, The Samoil Fortress and one of the oldest, cleanest lakes with very rare flora and fauna, protected by UNESCO e.t.c)
That’s all for now. You can ask me anything.

sfowler

Macedonia is the current destination of the month at another travel forum. You will find many useful links gathered there: http://tinyurl.com/n5o22