JeanneB,

I would imagine it's much easier to find your way out of Perugia than into it on a first go, so taking a train there to pick up a car rental is a good idea. I hope you will consider a stay in Perugia, because it really is a fantastic place if you enjoy cities.

As to the repeated suggestion of Siena, I'm sure phieaflefan will find enough in her research to get a feel for whether she'd like it, but I get such a hemmed-in feeling in Siena, and find its lack of any vegetation (especially around the campo) to be close to depressing. (I also don't happen to care for Sienese art.) So while I think Sienna is an amazing place to see, because it is so well preserved and you get a real education in what it must have been like to live in the middle ages, I can't recommend it as a place for "low-key sightseeing" and decompressing. I'd sooner recommend the Isle of Elba.

ness:
Yes, Perugia is more and more tempting. I'm glad you clarified that about driving in and out. I still have to get more books and study that question. I keep reading about the "escalators"...now my interest is really piqued!

Phieaglefan:
There is also a bus to Assisi. I've never read about it before, so can't say what the coaches are like.
http://www.sulga.it/autolinee/orari_trovati.asp

I meant to say "Rome to Assisi".

Thanks for the links! We're still debating.
H

Hi--
I just got back, traveling with my parents.... I'd vote for Siena.

It's a small-town feel when you're inside the old city walls--- very walkable-- accessible-- and not at all overwhelming. We were stunned by the Duomo (more so than Florence) and just enjoyed walking around, eating in small cafes, and just poking around.

If you decide to drive, my vote would be to spend the time in an even smaller Tuscany town (Montalcino or Montepulciano--- but still make your way to Siena. It shouldn't be missed.)

Just my 2 cents...