Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Student Now Living in France .. observations

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Student Now Living in France .. observations

I'm an American college student who just moved to Pau last week for 8 months. I thought fellow travelers would be interested in my observations thus far ... 1) Before my trip, I bought two French culture books [one called "Savoir Flair: 211 Ways to Survive French Culture" -- or something like that -- and "Culture Shock: France."]. I have found the books to be helpful about unknown customs. For instance, I never knew that the Maitre'd needed to be signaled for the order and the check. Otherwise, he [or she] will wait .. and so will you. 2) The French really do take showers and shave. I live with a family, and they take showers every day. And I haven't been around any stinky French men. Also, I haven't seen an women with armpit hair or unshaven legs [and I've been to the beach in Biarritz]. 3) The French aren't as hostile as it is assumed -- even in Paris. When my friend and I were traveling the Metro with all of our luggage, two business men helped us carry our luggage up the stairs [they don't have lifts!]. And a random male student crossing the street stopped to ask what hostel we were staying at; he wanted to give us directions. I guess the students may be friendlier, but everyone is saying "Bonjour," "Bonsoir," or whatever. 4) Don't even try to expect the French to understand "Eiffle Tower" even if you use your best french accent. In french it is "Le Tour Eiffle." 5) I have never encountered a rebuff because of my french. Granted, my accent is slightly Californian, and I don't understand a lot, I still put on a smile, use "Excuse-moi, je voudrais ..," and try to communicate. 6) Many people of all ages wear jeans and athletic shoes. Even french students in the bars wear cut off jeans and athletic shoes. 7) In Pau it is very humid .. not as bad as Florida, but it's a shock for me because I'm from California. My host mom, who is an accountant, will wear the same spandex/polyester outfit for a few days. I find this amazing because after one day my cotton shirt stinks from the weather. 8) People do take their dogs everywhere. There is dog crap on the streets [particularly in Paris .. not in Pau thus far], but it isn't EVERYWHERE. Just watch out .. 9) They do eat foreign food .. I've had pork snout, for one. The supermarkets sell horse .. and oddly enough, I haven't seen a lot of poultry or beef. 10) Two interesting cultural differences I've noticed: my family doesn't use napkins at meals, and I don't see people wearing sunglasses .. Like I said .. I'm here for 8 months .. so if I come across any other interesting situations, I'll post them.

Hooray for you! Keep up the postings because you are rendering a distinct service to travelers based on your personal experience. Question: is the old air training field still in existence near Pau? Many WWI fliers were trained there.

My experiences have been much the same as yours, although I have never been fortunate enough to stay for 8 months. Perhaps some of our older snobs will take some hints from your commentary. Being prepared & making even the slightest effort to 'fit in' can reap tremendous rewards. For all the French & Paris bashers - read & learn. Your next trip could be much more enjoyable. I look forward to your future posts. (& hope to join you in March).

Genesea- Great Post- Keep em coming!! I suspect you are getting good treatment because : 1.You do speak even a little french 2.you are young and a woman When I have been to Paris,( I do NOT speak ANY french and rely on a Berlitz book for all my help), I found the worst place was the tube- We actually had no problems in the shops or restaurants... My major question is: As an AMERICAN in France now, how much ANTI Americanism are you running into? THe reason I asked is a friend was there last Spring and had tons of anti-americanism and she spoke fluent French...

Wow. I want to offer a different view about France this spring. I was in France for a week at the end of April and did not encounter one, not one instance of anti-Americanism. I was in Troyes 3 nights, Chaumont 1 night and Paris for 4 nights so I was in a variety of locations with vastly different sized populations. I have 5 years of 20-year-old French from high school and college. I can speak a little and understand less. I always use bonjour, monsieur/madam, merci, and “parlez-vous anglais?” Maybe it was different for me because I knew about the election with Chiraq and Le Pen. Whenever I ran into someone who spoke English I would ask them about their politics. Most were stunned that I even knew the election was happening. I guess they expected all Americans to be oblivious of any politics but their own. I had some really interesting conversations as the French voting and tabulating process was explained to me. Had a couple of nice jokes made too about hand counting in France being faster than machine counting in Florida. I’ve gone prepared with local topic issues in foreign countries for several years now. It’s an interesting way to learn about a local viewpoint. And with the Internet it’s easy to find topical information for a foreign country. Now I could have missed some things. If someone muttered an ugly slang phrase at me as I was in a line, I wouldn’t have understood it. But to best insult someone, do it in their native tongue.

Genessa: Please keep posting.

Yay!!! Genesea!! Do keep posting, I will be watching for more. This is interesting, seeing life in France for a young American, with an open mind. Have a great time! kate

Great posting and perspective. David, As an American living in Europe, I agree with you. Europeans generally feel that Americans live in a vacuum (they do) and don't know much about any other politics than those of the US. So, come prepared with questions and some knowledge! Everyone likes to talk about themselves and sometimes, they are as critical of their own country as of the US! So, there goes a lot of Anti-Americanism! I have also found that sometimes I am happier not to be fluent as I am sure that I have missed some major slurs! But, is that any skin off my back...makes my life easier! ;-) I expect the best treatment, give it and usually receive it. Cheers! Jan PS>>>But I have learned to say F%$# off in Swiss German! ;-)

nice job of posting genesea, maybe one of the reasons you have not seen beef or poultry becouse of some of the problem they had in europe in general in past few years. peaple are peaple every where ,treat them nice and they will treat you same. good luck with your studyies and have fun.keep us informed and always smile!!

Man, I just posted a long reply and it mysteriously disappeared ... okay, here I try again: For those who think it is "Incredible" to mention that the French shower, I had my reasons. For one, my American-bred French Prof. has a French friend who has lived in Florida for several years, and this homme showers about one a week .. Also, my research has shown that travelers find the French very stinky .. well, that's not been the case with me. So more observations: 1) Public toilets generally do not have toilet seat or toilet paper .. and many are "Turkish Toilets" where you just stand over a hole ... yeah, it's kinda gross and I don't understand the toilet culture here. 2) For all those people on Fodors that say the French don't run, you are mistaken. Runners, you may now bring your running shoes because all ages will run in the street, on the track, or in the parks. It is perfectly acceptable to run on the road in spandex [for you men] and, actually, I haven't seen women running anywhere except on the track and in parks .. they wear pants and shirts [Women cover up a bit more compared to the US, Spain, or Italy. Amazingly enough, there is a law in Pau against sunbathing in public wearing a bathing suit.] 3) The French police don't seem as agressive as American police. They will wait patiently in their vehicles, and if you're seen smoking a joint ..oh well .. not a big deal. Heck, peeing in public is a "cool thing to do." 4) The French are taxed almost 20%, but their public services are great. Public education is cheap, and I hear that the universities cost a few hundred euros a year. Also, doctors make house calls and hospital services are very cheap. One American student received a house call, an x-ray, and medication at a cost of no more than 70 euros. 5) I have no experienced any Anti-Americanism .. the French don't dislike Americans, they just don't like the American government. However, my host parents' friend Francois believes that the French are indebted to America and should try to understand where Pres. Bush is coming from. He believes the French are too anti-confrontational. 6) I haven't heard about any WWI basesm but I did find out that there is a WW2 Concentration Camp nearby. 7) The French are, generally, very direct. If a guy wants a kiss, he'll ask for one. If he wants sex, he'll make that clear as well. They are not afraid to talk politics, and they will rib you if they get the chance [especially the French my age]. One Parisian found out that I was a conservative, a he just tried to put words in my mouth by saying that I must be a supporter of the war because I'm a conservative .. they really can be argumentative, and they like backing people into corners. But generally, everyone has been quite gracious and I haven't felt hated or out of place at all. I have a few words on American travelers: American travelers can be quite a pain because they assume that they an take their American ideals, preferences, and laws with them wherever they go. For instance, in a Parisian shop, there were several American women screaming at the shopkeeper because the shopkeeper wouldn't take a credit card unless the total was at least 15 euros. This is how I see it: I'm in another culture to experience that culture, for better or for worse. If I want my American lifestyle, then I should stay home. Sure, there is a culture difference [eating mutton for one], but I really don't miss the US at all.

Actually, according to OECD the taxation percentage in France is 45,7 %, not 20 % (which would be very, very low on European standards). But because taxation is progressive, it really depends on your income. Higher income, higher percentage. Lower income, lower percentage. Genesea, you are right about French healthcare. About a month ago it was chosen to be the best in EU. Now government authorities from other EU countries go there to check it out and learn. I am glad you like your life there. I studied in France for three years, and I liked it, too.

xxx, the OECD figure you are referring is the total amount of taxation (ie income tax + "social" taxes on your salary + local taxes + VAT + gas taxes, etc. )and, as far as I know, the rate is now slightly beyond 50 %, and is always brandished by right-wing politicians as a proof of how much a nanny state France has become, etc. Actually, in France most of the taxation is either indirect or made of contributions to the famous social services which are good, granted, but don't come cheap. A French executive contributes 27 % of his/her gross salary to Securite Sociale (which encompasses health insurance and the State pension scheme) as well as contributions to an unemployment benefit fund. And he'she has to pay direct taxes, in the vicinity of 20 % for a gross 25,000 euro income. To foster bigger families, there is a system called "quotient familial", whereby each child you have to support counts as 0.5 of the figure by which you divide a family's income. Eg: a couple and two kids, the only income being the father's, say 21,000 euros. This income is divided by 1 (father) + 1 (mother) + 1 (2 kids x 0.5) means that taxable income = 7,000 euros. This explains why 60 % of French households don't pay any income tax. You don't have to be on welfare for that. You just have to have one medium salary and three kids.

Genesea - It is enlightening to see a fresh, unadulterated opinion regarding the French. I encourage everyone who have had "negative experiences' to read & learn. Perhaps you brought it on yourself. Keep up the ggod work..

Was in Paris for a week in March. Everyone was quite friendly. The Parisian rudeness is a myth in my experience. If you're polite & respectful, so are they. Unfortunately not all Americans are.

xxx.re:rudeness-That is exactly what my husband told me years ago, when I was reluctant to go to Paris, I heard they were sooo rude! We went, and now after about 7 trips to France, I have yet to have a "rude" experience. the whole thing is sort of an urban legend..kind of like, all AMericans are fat, etc.

Great post Genesea. I'll be in Pau on Friday night. If I see you I'll give you a wave:)

Genesea- Are you the one from SLO looking for gifts to bring??? What did you end up taking as gifts from California?? Cal Poly Alumnus

Thank you Genesea for your refreshing & insightful observations - much appreciated! I also found generalisations about French rudeness to be nothing but a myth when I was there this time last year - I had ahead of the trip also taken the time to learn about customs & some french phrases which were invaluable. I found the people kind, polite & generous - the one exception was in my first interaction with a shopkeeper who (in my groggy jetlagged state having just arrived from Sydney) I did not make the effort to greet with a 'bonjour madame' & immediately asked for a phone card in English (what was I thinking???) - even than the response, while a little abrupt, was hardly rude. I learnt my lesson from that & made every effort from then on to do things their way as I was priveleged to be in their country. Thanks again!