Stresa & Borromean Islands
 

I haven't seen this topic come up much, but on various train trips, I have been enchanted when passing this area along Lago Maggiore. I am seriously considering taking the train after attending several days at the Montreux Jazz Festival this summer down to this area for a few days to explore.

Questions are:
1. Is there enough to do there (i.e. explore) if I alloted three nights and four days?
2. What would be a good base to stay while in this area?
3. Can this be done without a car?
4. Would it be too quiet for my lively tastes (I'm not into discos or wild partying, but do like to stay up late drinking wine and listening to music if available).

Thanks for any insight.

We spent a week in Stresa and certainly never got bored (but we did have a car and used it). I think 3-4 days would be perfect. There's plenty to do without a car because boats will take you to venues all over the lake, including bustling markets on certain days. In Stresa itself, there are plenty of cafés and bars for evening activity; not sure about music. You might want to consider staying on Isola Pescatore, but I think you'd sacrifice some evening entertainment (though you could go to Stresa and take a late boat back).

When in Stresa we never used our rental car, HuisClos. I agree with StCirq description of Stresa. I believe the longest we stayed was three nights if memory serves me right but I could sure enjoy staying longer if possible. We never stayed on Isola Pescatore but those that have usually seem to enjoy doing so. If you decide to do that I personally would stay one night there and the other two nights in Stresa. Enjoy and I am sure you will!

We've also stayed in Stresa but we did not have a car. It was very easy to get to by train from Switzerland. We were there 3 nights, I believe, or maybe 4. We bought a multi-day boat pass so we could just hop on and go. We were never bored for an instant. We stayed at a hotel that looked out over the lake and had a small balcony, so it was a treat to have wine in early evening and relax after a day of fun.

Thank you for your responses -- very, very helpful! Does anyone have any recommendations for a hotel -- the one artsbabe described sounds lovely! Ok, I know the next question will be "what's your budget" and what can't I live without. I would like to max it at $350/night if that's possible in the area, but we generally prefer 3 star hotels, so anything under the max would be even better! We don't look for luxury nor do we shirk it, but try to avoid stuffiness at all costs. Don't care about noise, and don't even mind "worn" so long as the place is clean, and the people who run the hotel are friendly. Would like a view, but that's always on my wish list, and a place to get coffee in the morning.

Can you tell me a little more about the mult-day boat pass, and if anyone knows the location of the cable car (Mottarone) and how you get to that if staying in Stresa, that would be terrific!

We took the train to Locarno, and the ride was lovely! Looked around Locarno and came back via boat to Stresa. It was a great day. We tried to go on the cable car (Mottarone) but it was closed. We stayed at the Regina Palace and it was nice.

My hotel recommendation is quite a few years old now, so take it with a grain of salt, but it's the Hotel Italie et Suisse, right across from the main boat dock with lovely views. We had a gigantic room with a balcony, the breakfast was enough food for me for an entire day, the place was clean but not fancy, and the owners were incredibly helpful and friendly.

Hi, HC - here's another vote for stresa and the borromean islands. We spent a whole fortnight there when i was expecting my firstborn [she's now 22!] and we had a great time.

you should find loads to do in 3-4 days.

We spent 3 nights there last summer at the end of July as a first trip and I thought that was enough. We are in our mid-late 50's and even we found it a bit snoozy :)

We drove over from France where we had been attending a family wedding and we basically just parked the car up the hill on the street in Stresa and then walked everywhere or were taking the boat. We stayed at the Hotel Saini Meuble' which I would not recommend only because it is not overlooking the water. It basically was on a street just behind the main square but just faced another building across the narrow street-so not much privacy or breeze.

Also, this is minor maybe but the owner or desk guy-not sure which he was pushed us to reserve a meal at a restaurant in the square that was awful-really touristy and just plain bad. And I always think it is terrible to waste a meal in either Italy or France! We should have gotten up and left but were too embarrassed since the people were obviously friends with the owner.

I think I would definitely spring for a water view and air conditioning for the quiet as well possibly. Italie and Suisse seems like a good choice since I know you can get a room overlooking the water, although it doesn't seem to rank very high on trip advisor.

Out favorite meal was at

Il Vicoletto
Vicolo Del Poncivo,
8838 Stresa, Italy
tel: 0323932102

Last year it wasn't even listed on trip advisor-now it is listed as number 1!

If you like to stay up late, check out the bar/ristorante L'IdroVolante, which is right next the the cable car entrance. The jazz is mostly on tape, but the pasta is homemade and they occasionally do live music I've heard, and for my money, it's the sweetest spot on the lake.

http://www.lidrovolante.com/index.html

To get to the cable car, and to L'IdroVolante from central Stresa, just walk toward the lake. When you reach the promenade, turn left onto and keep walking along the lakeside promenade, for just a bit more than a mile. It's at the end of the promenade. I guess you can also take a boat there.

Of all the islands, I most enjoyed Isola Madre, wihich is the furthest out and probably the least visited. Also, the palazzo of the Isola Bella is particularly tasteful (can't say the same for the garden!)

If you take the cable car up, get a map from the tourist office first so you have some idea of where to hike.

Personally I found Stresa not particularly interesting (I'm not into gardens) and as a town not all that appealing. (Lots of bus tour groups.) Were I to return, I'd hang out at L'IdroVolante, but bring a book. Can't recommend a hotel.

My information is older than I would like, HuisClos, one time we stayed at the Hotel Palma or Hotel LaPalma. It was very nice with a beautiful view (we had a room in the front). The other times we stayed at a hotel recommended by an Italian friend in Milan and we were very happy with it too as again we got a room with a view but I can not remember the name of it. It might have been the hotel StCirq posted about as the hotel was across from main dock. So I am not really any help. I would check out the hotel reviews on TripAdvisor.

The Italie et Suisse and the LaPalma are just about next door to each other. If recollection serves, the LaPalma was a bit more upscale.

HuisClos,

My visit to Lago Maggorie was in 2000 and we did stay at the Hotel Verbano on Isola dei Pescatore. We just loved it. Very nice hotel, great restaurant (excellent food and service) for dinner with the wall facing the lake entirely of glass.

Dead quiet at night. The isola was tiny, but a short fun little exploration walk to take. We even discovered the tiny church and cemetary.

Our room was on the ground floor and shared a gigantic terrace facing the lake and the views. We were the only ones who used it a couple of sunny afternoons for some late wine. Perfect!

We visited all 3 islands. Isola Bella seems to be the most visited and the villa gardens are over the top, but nice. The villa is a very interesting tour.

Isola Madre has beautiful gardens with peacocks and pheasants roaming. Skip the villa tour, it's empty of any furnishings (or at least it was back then).

We also took the boat up to Villa Taranto to see the botanical gardens. Very nice, huge, amazing greenhouses and some nice fountains too. We went in mid-May, normall the height of the azalea bloom, but missed it due to early and abnormally warm spring weather. That weather was really nice!

We arranged with Hotel Verbano for a private boat to take us back to Stresa to catch an early train. No problem.

Stresa itself was nice too although we just strolled. Didn't eat or shop there.

We only stayed 2 nights and would have loved one more. Would have liked to go up the cable car or taken the hydrofoil up to Lugano.

Buon viaggio!

Our visit to Stresa was a number of years ago, too, but we stayed at the Hotel Astoria. We did a great trip to some little town on the lake and took what was a large metal basket up, up and up to the top of a large hill/small mountain. Great views and a lovely trip up and back in these basket things.

Thank you StCirq, yes that would be the hotel we stayed in the other times. As many Italians our Milanese friend stays in nice hotels but he doesn't believe in paying any more then necessary. The way I am feeling I would love a long relaxing week at Stresa right now, or rather when it warms up in that beautiful area.

We too love Maggiore and Stresa adnhave stayed there twice over the past 25 years. Here are some pics of both Orta and Maggiore in 2007.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4173

If there's a way to get to Orta without a car, Huis Clos, I would highly recommend you do that. We spent a day at Orta and it was one of the highlights of our stay in the area.

We stayed there 3 nights, but the first day was when we landed in Milan and picked up the car. So the first day was sort of wandering, getting oriented and having an early night. the islands themselves easily take a full day and we spend theother exploring a couple of villas and gardens. (We used it as a couple of days to relax and slow down - since we had both been incredibly busy at work and wanted a few days of slow exploring.

And there are numerous other places to explore - but a car is really a big help. I think you could easily spend 3 or 4 days

We stayed 3 nights in Stresa at La Palma.
Loved Stresa and loved the hotel.

In 2009 we stayed three nights in Stresa at Hotel Fontana.
It is not one of the larger grand hotels, but it is on the
main street with them. It was very reasonably priced, simple furnishings, clean, good breakfast and a very helpful owner.
He and his family live there. They have rooms with views of water, but it is in the distance. The hotel is not in front of the main boat docks but closer to the cable car and smaller boat dock. There was a small cafe/bar with a nice outside deck overlooking the water with great views right by the cable car. Everything is in easy walking distance. The shops, restaurants, etc. are nearer the main boat dock. Visiting Isola Bella and Isola Madre will take most of one of your days. We are seniors and as jpie stated we found it a bit snoozy at night also. Well worth a few days visit however.

Bookmarking

We stayed at La Palma and thought the hotel very pleasant, huge rooms, bathrooms, balcony and well placed in Stresa. Highly recommend it.
Schnauzer

Lugano is on lago di Como, not Lago Maggiore (which has the town of Locarno at the northernmost end of the lake).

During summer months there is regular bus service to Lago d'Orta.

Also, HuisClos, there is a classical music festival in Stresa in high season, and you either want to be there for it or avoid it. I am not sure of its dates.

We rather like the Hotel Royal
It is very close to the cable car and you can get boats close by.
It is very pleasant to walk into Stresa along the Lakeside promenade. There is also a well established passegiata in the evening with families strolling along beautifully dressed.

Well, Lugano seems to have moved.
It is , of course, on Lago Lugano and is worth a visit.

From Montreux you could train to Domodossola and switch to the Centovalli train to Locarno. This is a famous scenic ride. Of course, you end up in Locarno. There's quite a bit to do there. Maybe stay a night there, then take a boat on to Stresa.

There is also a day trip from Stresa: train to Domodossola, Centovalli train to Locarno, boat back to Stresa.

Thank you everyone for helping me fill in the blanks on this -- keep them coming!

For all who provided hotel information, thanks much -- I will research each one, but the ones mentioned by StCirq and LoveItaly seem to be the best fit. Sounds like I may need A/C -- do you recall if they have that?

zeppole -- thanks for the info -- although I would have liked to have been there for the classical music festival (they're doing a JS Bach cello concerto which would be the bomb!), that will happen late July after we've left. Have you been to L'IdroVolante recently? I'll check it out.

Mimar, I like your idea -- sounds like a good idea.

Bob -- incredible photos -- makes me very excited! Re: Lugano, lol!

On gardens: I don't know if I'm a garden person or not. I loved Giverny, and have been to botantical gardens, like on Victoria Island and the Huntington in Pasadena, and the prim and proper garden in Versailles. I love passing by the lavendar and sunflower fields in Provence. But have never been to Kew gardens -- never had the interest. Maybe it would be something I'd enjoy, since I like being outdoors and taking photographs. Would this be too stodgy?

Lago d'Orta: since several of you mentioned it and I looked at Bob's great photos, if you know without me googling it, how far is it by bus?

Thanks again!

Yes! Bob is right! Sorry, I should have typed Lugano.

Lugano, lake or town, is still not reachable by hydrofoil from Stresa, and without a car I believe it's close to 4 hour journey one way.

Huis Clos, we were typing at the same time.

I haven't revisited Stresa, but friends who use it as a regular overnight for Malpensa tell me that L'idrovolante is going strong, for lunch and dinner.

If the bus to Lago d'Orta is operating in September, it's about an hour ride.

I enjoyed the garden on Isola Madre more than Isola Bella (which is a grotesque). Both have exotic birds, but Isola Madre have more. But what's really nice about the Isola Madre is the puppet theater inside the villa. When I visited, it was not necessary to take a tour. (Likewise the palazzo on Isola Bella.)

I actually thought the town of Baveno looked nicer (boat to the islands stop there as well), but I'm not sure it has a train station, although I can't imagine that a taxi from the train station costs that much. Anyway, I didn't stay there. But as much as you can, I think you'll want to get out of the touristy core of Stresa itself. It's not that big, and you can walk along the lake, take boats, cable cars or hang out at L'Idrovolante.

There are no end of formal gardens and villa gardens dotting the lakeside, but not many except those on the islands are reachable without a car.

The best gardens on Maggiore is the Villa Taranto just outside Verbania and north of Stresa. The ferry boats do go there, but plan on 2 hours in the gardens---lovely.

By the way, some visitors to the Isola Bella miss the "Shell Grotto", and it is a fairly unique site. It's another reason to go into the palazzo, instead of just touring the garden (also "grotto-esque)..

http://www.italiannotebook.com/art-a.../shell-grotto/

I'll check all of this out, thanks. I was thinking the shell grotto was like the blue grotto -- strange to be calling it a grotto. However, it looks interesting, if not ornate. Also sounds like a good place to go on a warm day.

Any thoughts on temps in mid-July? Is air conditioning a must?

What is there to explore in Locarno? I like Mimar's description of scenic ride.

If you get to Locarno and have time another little boat trip over to Ascona allows you to see a small artsy village
with a beautiful lakeside promenade with terraced cafes and
restaurants. Cobbled lanes lead to the old quarter full of artisan galleries and little craft shops. Ascona is 3 km from
Locarno and can be seen in a quick stroll or savored for the day.

Thanks zeppole and bob,

Locarno, not Lugano. Like I mentioned, it's been a few years and since we didn't make it there, I was confusing my "L" towns.

Best bang for your buck -- and time -- while sightseeing in Locarno: take the 3-leg trip up to the Cimetta ski area. Leg 1 is a funicular railway leaving from next to the main Locarno train station and going uphill to the Madonna del Sasso church. The church has great views over Lago Maggiore and the Alps. From there you catch a gondola up to Cardada, a park and picnic area. More views plus hiking. Moving ever upward, leg 3 is a ski lift to Cimetta for a 360 degree view of mountains and lake. All this shouldn't take more than a couple hours or so, unless you linger to enjoy the views.

More sightseeing from Locarno: as I said, you can boat to the Borromean Islands and Stresa. And you can take the comfortable Swiss postal buses back into the mountains for scenery and hiking.

Has anyone stayed at the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees?