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Stokebailey, solo live in Richmond & London. Later Paris, Rome, and Thessaloniki
I've long wanted to go to Richmond, only having been as far as Kew Gardens before. When my husband Bob and I decided to meet our daughter Hannah in Thessaloniki, adding Paris – his choice – and Rome – because it was there – I added a short trip to London on my own. I ended up at the lovely Orange Tree Hotel in central Richmond because of a promotional email from Young's pubs. It appeared to be around 30 minutes’ bus ride from LHR, then another 30 or so by District Line into Central London. Attractive place, very reasonable rates.
When I missed my 18:00 connecting flight in ORD because of United mechanical issues, I didn't mind waiting for the 21:10 next flight out. I enjoy watching the flow of humanity in that enormous airport, and wasn't sure what I could do in a Richmond winter morning after my missed flight's 07:00 arrival. Arriving at LHR 11:15 sleep deprived, for the first time breezing through e-gates and missing initial diversion to a border official, I had my usual difficulty figuring out connection to Airalo e-sim. Searching for public transport on wifi Google maps, the easy bus I had expected was nowhere to be seen. Google did that idiotic thing of advising you to drive a car 17 minutes to a tube stop. Why hadn't I planned that part at home, saved it? The unhelpful young Information woman first directed me to Richmond by Underground at level -1. This not being my first rodeo, I knew that the Piccadilly line would not get me to Richmond. I persisted. Her next advice was Underground to Hammersmith, then District line. I could have taken 26 minute Uber or taxi, but Tube seemed the path of least resistance, and I believe in public transport. And I am cheap. District line terminates at Richmond Station, an easy half block from the Orange Tree. I entered through the pub, now caffeine deprived at 13:30. My initial impression of Richmond as a young and vibrant town began with the pub's fun and friendly vibe. The kind young hotelier fixed me up with a complimentary latte since I couldn't check in until 1500. Ah. She took my bag, suggested I have a seat since the place would would get busy later. Understatement. The sign board out front offered Six Nations rugby, and there was a jumbo screen set up next to the large one. Princess Anne appeared, shook hands with players about to play the Scotland -- Italy match. It was chilly and gray outside, cozy in there. Rugby is fun to watch in that situation, where people care about the outcome. Scotland quickly led. I decided to venture out just a little, get my second coffee at the sweet tiny Robin Cafe around the corner on Kew Road. £4 mocha came in a handmade cup. Artistic. Feeling revived and well cared for. Orange Tree Theatre is just across the street from the hotel. Small, and what look like interesting and quality productions. The world premiere of Churchill in Moscow starts Monday, starring Oliver Allam, most familiar to me from The Thick of it. Monday I go to London, but don't have anything scheduled that night. So it's a little tempting. Next month, Anna Chancellor, always Caroline Bingley to me, is featured in a play that deals with Charles II’s crowd. My favorite English monarch. My room 7 is on the top floor. Quiet, nicely decorated, with a comfortable bed, large tiled shower. £205 for two nights. Perfect for me. High quality snacks in the honesty bar, including longhorn beef crisps. Tasty. I am ridiculously attracted to British crisps. I used to get a different flavored bedtime bag practically every UK night, until I finally realized that it was the sodium that gave me leg cramps in the night. Not dehydration, not walking too much. Crisps. Despite this, I wolfed down every salty snack offered since the beginning of the trip. The lure of salt plus crispiness plus free food compensating for flight delays made me lose my head, which is why I am up in the middle of the night writing this, woken twice by ankle cramps. At home, before I learned not to eat salty things in the evening, I could take a spoonful of yellow mustard, works right away. Calling the desk here and asking about mustard just doesn't seem practical |
On for the ride. I got back myself Monday night but not sure I'll do a full on Trip Report. I really like Richmond/Richmond Park. Wow £205 for two nights. is a deal! Prawn Cocktail crisps are my downfall ;). Now go back to sleep . . .
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Interesting mix of destinations ! Following along.
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On for the ride
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Aw, janis! :sleep: I couldn't do it. More caffeine, and the very nice Continental breakfast, and I was up and at em.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31c0911215.jpg Complimentary, always nice. As my lawyer brother says, no additional charge. |
Originally Posted by ANUJ
(Post 17630472)
Interesting mix of destinations ! Following along.
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Always good to see you, bilbo.
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Side note about my minimal packing attempt for a 3 1/2 week winter trip. Expecting temps between 32 and 55F. My under seat bag barely holds: One lightweight Merino dress One thicker turtleneck Merino dress Cashmere cardigan I wore a linen dress and cashmere pullover on the plane, and that worked fine. Low suede boots Black tights Umbrella Other doodads. It weighed 16.8 lb at home, and I won't add much else. |
Originally Posted by stokebailey
(Post 17630512)
Always good to see you, bilbo.
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When I came back check in at 1500, there was a scattering of people watching the Scotland-Italy game. After a brief rest, I came down to the pub to head out, and the place was packed. Mobbed with young people holding beverages, enjoying the game and the scene. Barely room to squeeze through and out the door. The Ireland - England match was on, with loud cheering for the Irish.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b146d717ff.jpg Fun atmosphere. I headed down to the Riverside in the gathering dusk. The bridge is said to be oldest remaining in London. The river seems a little high; from last week's storms? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4888fb1bb9.jpg Lots of people out walking. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54cf1c5519.jpg New moon over Thames Bridge. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e82c2db5b.jpg I expected the water to be flowing the other way https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b78dd864ad.jpg Next to the Boathouse. Floating restaurant I guess, but difficult to get to dry shod right now. |
"I expected the water to be flowing the other way"
The river is tidal as far up river as (I think) Teddington Lock) so yes, it does flow upstream at times. |
Stoke, your TR is sooo atmospheric. And a breath of fresh air to read. Nice to see your nocturnal inclusions too. Never trust anyone who does not like Richmond, yeah?
Your mention of rugby and crowds reminded me. Our group of friends here in Toronto is about to lose a crucial member. He's about to return home to his birthplace Glasgow, apparently for good. He has a serious health condition and could go any moment. The rugby content above here struck a bell coz that same pal has been trumpeting his intent to attend as many footie games per week as his schedule will allow, even though he has never really been a serious fan of that sport! (a knock on Stoke's hotel room door; 4am) Stoke (startled awake, alarmed): "W-WHAT?! WH-WHO IZZIT?" Staffer (direct; efficient): "Front desk here maam. (now spoken as reminder/question) Your mustard request?" (sound of staff feet padding away and back downstairs) Stoke limps over to the door and cautiously opens it. We hear the slightest creak. Outside the door, a cauldron filled with fresh mustard. |
Originally Posted by janisj
(Post 17630569)
The river is tidal as far up river as (I think) Teddington Lock) so yes, it does flow upstream at times. |
You are very kind, xebec.
Oh, your Glasgow friend. Maybe he watch his team win many games. I Love it. That delightful scenario would have been a dream come true, if only I had been able to dream. |
A little more about Richmond.
I think a tourist could do worse than staying at the Orange Tree and traveling back and forth by District line. I've just finished my complimentary Continental breakfast, and have until 13:00 to check out, since I booked directly. When may I ever have another chance for no additional charge breakfast that includes tiny heart-shaped tubs of Marmite? Possibly never. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d9b91225f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26696c2a27.jpg I managed to stay up until 2100, never quite mastering. the smart TV, then slept the sleep of an honest person on the very comfy bed. Sunday morning, yesterday, I took the 371 bus to Richmond Park gate. Sunshine. Many ?10K race runners kept left on the muddy paths. I lingered awhile near the table where helpers handed out water, shouting encouragement: Good job! Brilliant! Good job! I had to call: Good job you all! The main encourager replied that she would rather tell them to hurry up, because it was Cold! Selfless encouragers need encouragement, too. What a fine park. I was glad I chose to go there for the first time, instead of back to Kew Gardens, where the entrance fee had almost doubled to Peak Season the day before. I remember fodorites reminiscing about paying 3p or whatever in the good old days. Ancient trees, some of them 800 years old. They are still pollarding trees; where I come from, it's called topping and is considered bad management. Since it's been going on many centuries here and in France, I trust that they know how to do it right. There's another maneuver, where the tree is cut right down to the ground and a thicket grows up. I think that's what happened to this holly, the likes of which I'd never seen. Ancient trees are a joy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a88fbd69aa.jpg Charles I apparently first enclosed the park for himself and friends to hunt. I think it's wonderful that anyone can enjoy it now. It was very well utilized that Sunday morning, though chilly. We can't cower in our rooms and wait for good weather. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b96a7035dc.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e643afd9da.jpg I had a fine, long walk. Managed not to see any deer. Maybe they're laying low because the cull is going on. I would certainly go back again and again if I lived around here. By the time I left, traffic on the street north of the park where the bus had come was backed up a quarter mile, and the bus going that way was full. Bailing out on the breakfast room, where Sky News is reminding me of US politics. I get more than enough of that at home. Maybe I'll try another walk to the Riverside. |
janis, thank you for reminding me about tides. Where we live, along the Mississippi that I glimpse maybe a few times a year, tides are not a thing. I see now the dramatic difference from Saturday night. Thank you for humoring me on which way the river might flow
I asked this man working in a boat, not wanting to seem too ignorant, if left was upstream and right was toward London. He confirmed that. BTW, janis, I quote you as an authority on London questions. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e0e60361b.jpg There is something so satisfying about sitting and watching a river flow. People walk by me along the Thames path. Does this swan belong to the King? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c67e363941.jpg Not that I would harm a feather on his head. |
Mute swans only belong to the monarch
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I forgot to book Sunday roast until 2 days before, when the website indicated it was full. When I asked that morning, they booked me in for 2pm. Just the thing after a brisk winter's walk, and the timing helped me decide on the park versus Gardens.
Sunday roast is understandably popular there, given the atmosphere, the open wood fires, the food. When I told the server I might need a box for leftovers after, he offered a child's plate. Perfect. £11! And in many ways better than my roasts, that can't compete with crispy duck fat potatoes. I wasn't sure what to do with Yorkshire pudding, so I treated it like bread. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a905baf5d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b19a7aa9e.jpg Rainbow chard on the bottom was a tasty surprise. |
Later afternoon, strolling down Kew Road, I thought I would check out one of the attractive alleys that lead to the Green. As it happened, I took the Ted Lasso one with the Prince's Head at the end. The beautiful green, with plane trees and sunshine, dads teaching toddlers football, couples strolling, students giggling. Pretty darn idyllic. I sat for a long time and drank it in.
After the last sun rays faded, I turned my attention to the Ted Lasso phenomenon. When earlier searching online for things to do in Richmond, I saw Lasso tours for hundreds of GBP. Hundreds! Possibly including a photo with Jason Sudeikis cutout, but still. There is an official Lasso store near the pub, and I admit the Greyhounds logo is cool. You can buy a jersey with Kent on the back. I thought the first season had a lot of charm, but they kind of lost me after that. I'm not one much of one for psychological backstories. Why Ebenezer Scrooge turned out the way he did, sure. My friends and loved ones, sure. I asked one of the hotel guys how the locals felt about the filming, and he said people liked it, and Marvel filming around Kingston. I can see how it would add some excitement. Closing off that alley wouldn't be such an inconvenience, unlike say a Jason Bourne car chase through Paris. The Prince's Head was standing room only when I peeked in. Arsenal had just scored an early one against Man City. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b92822cbd.jpg Almost tempting. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c5be2d6ca.jpg I barely stepped inside. Seems nice. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4583e593aa.jpg Old world charm. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1a3b6da91.jpg I saw a mid-century apartment for sale, facing the green, in one of the real estate agent storefronts. £1.5 million or so. |
Yorkshire pudding options
pour the gravy into the centre and eat your way in or get "golden syrup" and do the same |
Oh stoke, you are reconciling me with London...
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I’ll be at the Orange Tree next week! It is definitely worth it to sign up for promotions (which happens automatically if you ever use the WiFi) as I got three nights for 210 GBP. One night was free.
I love Richmond. Not all Ted Lasso tours are so expensive. I went on one and it was not expensive. Maybe 30 GBP. I really enjoyed it. Learned not to buy the biscuits in the window of the shop on Ted’s street because they might be coming from Tesco and repacked! I didn’t know one could order a child’s portion of a Sunday roast - thank you for mentioning this! |
That photo of the night sky, the car lights and street light, and the red hat is absolutely fabulous. One of the best photos I've ever seen on Fodors, and that's saying something considering the many great photographers on here.
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Oh, kerouac!
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Originally Posted by rialtogrl
(Post 17631162)
I’ll be at the Orange Tree next week!
I didn’t know one could order a child’s portion of a Sunday roast - thank you for mentioning this! Coquelicot, thank you! I liked the way that one turned out. Happy accident. |
I saw the Royal Shakespeare Company production of Kyoto last night at @sohoplace. Devastating, hilarious, tragic.
I had almost decided I didn't have the energy, then rechecked a couple of reviews online: NYT called it 'thrilling,' and the Guardian said 'gripping.' What kind of fool wouldn't rouse herself for that? Especially since it's an easy #14 bus from Russell Square to Tottenham Tube station, practically next door. It was thrilling and gripping. I can't discuss the politics of it here, but it's set in the distant past starting 1987 when global climate change talks began. Monday I took a bus down to BFI South Bank for the 18:00 showing of Hard Truths. I like Mike Leigh, wanted to see something British.. The theater was mostly full, except around the edges. I've been to the Mediatique before, enjoyed bits of old films, and used to really like the movie star postcards you could get at the shop. Somehow those are gone, replaced by a smaller, more artsy selection. The protagonist is an angry middle-aged black woman. Perplexingly angry. It's not a movie I liked in the usual, satisfying sense, but it has stuck with me. Speaking of perplexing: getting out of the BFI building then back up to the bridge and bus stop. Once there, it is a cinch. |
Getting around:
Southeastern Express train took 19 minutes from Richmond station to Waterloo, including one stop at Clapham. 490 bus, per schedules posted near a bus stop, seems to go between Heathrow to Richmond station,. The tfl app also mentioned a two buses option including the Superloop. I like to stay above ground when possible. |
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Playing Mozart outside Tottenham tube stop, a hard way to make a buck. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f03184e34.jpg The Kyoto set. Second balcony seat , just fine. |
Loving your report. Thanks for taking the time while you’re on your trip!
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Thank you, Yanky.
I find the Celtic Hotel's old fashioned atmosphere comforting. Most of the staff has been there for several years. For a small town person at heart, feels good to be recognized. The woman serving breakfast, for instance, has been there since before my time. When Hannah was getting her Masters at KCL, her dorm was just down the street, and she would sometimes come have breakfast with me. It's a student area, with UCL across the Square. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6583b5737.jpg The lounge. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd72064f5e.jpg You can get a full English breakfast to order. I stopped in at SKOOB bookstore, downstairs on the north side of Brunswick Center. They have a fine selection of used and new books, including lightweight Penguin paperbacks good for traveling. The Tesco across from Russell Square tube stop fills with students searching for the best meal deal. Sometimes me. Handiest place to get the Guardian newspaper, too. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b10654a39a.jpg SKOOB https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e9bdab0c6.jpg The excellent Fortitude Bakehouse is in the alley just behind the Celtic, in the old Horse Hospital building. |
Enjoying your TR, stokebailey !
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Splendid TR, stokebailey. That was a huge Yorkshire pudding! And thanks for a new word, pollarding.
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Aw, thanks, yk and TDud.
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Duplicate
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Traveling alone has benefits. You can do what you feel like doing, or bail out if things prove not as much fun as you thought. A disadvantage comes if you don't quite know what you feel like doing, and don't have anyone to nudge you.
The day I saw Kyoto, I felt at loose ends. Started to go to the Royal Maritime Museum, changed my mind. Regrouped, walked over to the British Museum in the afternoon. I love that museum and all it offers, and I love seeing masses of people from around the world. What I don't love is massed humanity between me and the art. I wondered for a while, looking for a folding stool, then wandered another while looking for something to sketch. Indecisive and overwhelmed. I made a bad sketch of an Assyrian lion, then I made the mad decision, still carrying the stool, to buy an Egyptian cat postcard for a friend's birthday. The jostling, the seekers after souvenirs. Soon it was closing time, and we were herded to the exits. I still had a couple of hours until curtain time, wasn't hungry, didn't want to go to a pub. Luckily, the wonderful L.Cornelissen art store down the block was still open. It restored my soul, mostly. |
Speaking of crisps:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f87c02497f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55c8e55e82.jpg They sell these in Rome. Called crinkle chips in the Italian ingredients, made in Milan, they are above average. Amusing packaging a plus. |
I had too few full days in London this time, and trying to optimize them might have made me more scatterbrained the previous day.
First stop, Arôme Bakery in Covent Garden. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b53232dab6.jpg This was not my day to try something new, though their honey French toast is said to be the thing. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecdf464468.jpg They make an almond croissant that you can take away and eat all day. I have been rereading Patrick O'Brien's most excellent Aubrey/Maturing series, full of 19th century British warships, so I devoted my last day to a Thames Clipper to Greenwich and the Royal Maritime Museum. I like to relax and see London from the river, and it is a fine Museum. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e3e63b2ef.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...206eea769e.jpg So-called Traitors Gate. Queen Elizabeth I passed through here, and so probably did a few of my ancestors who backed the wrong sides. The front of the Maritime Museum is undergoing construction, so I tried walking up along a drive on the right side. That didn't lead to an entrance, but it did go past a RN burying ground. Near the fence, there was memorial to a man who would have served during the Napoleonic wars, then died a lieutenant in middle age. The Master and Commander books tell you what a melancholy position that was, never to be made a commander or a captain. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c8ed92f31.jpg |
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I'm still live, but in Thessaloniki on the tail end. In London, it was impossible to get away from this former footballer, advertising underwear and his abs in different poses. He's justifiably proud of them, of course. Even in Paris, there was a massive photo along the Left Bank of the Seine. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e68b6c061.jpg Echoed here at the excellent Archaeological Museum in Thessaloniki. This represented a breastplate, not tattooed flesh, and shows the enduring appeal of a toned belly. |
The Aubrey sagas are interesting and based mainly on the true life story of the amazingly named Captain Courageous.
Patrick ( not his real name) born and raised English decided, late in life, that he was Irish. Which you can see sort if happening in the books. |
Thanks, bilbo. I'll have to look into Captain Courageous.
This time through the books, I kind of skim the sea battles. The evening after Maritime Museum, I headed down to the London Coliseum for ENO production of Marriage of Figaro, my favorite. Lucky to get first row balcony seat and admire the ornate upper decorations. An unusually dressed young couple made their own dramatic entrance to a box. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9dbbce244.jpg Delightful and creative production. The set is a white wall with four white doors; during the overture the players fling them open, then closed, at dramatic beats, Just clever, surprising, played for farce. Same set throughout, except when it elevates to be walked under. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b401d45725.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58306184b7.jpg . Modern-ish costumes. A fun evening, culminating in the touching finale. Down a short hill to the Strand, good old 91 bus, and back to Russell Square. |
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