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Stokebailey and sometimes family: three weeks in London, Fife, Glasgow, and Avignon.

Stokebailey and sometimes family: three weeks in London, Fife, Glasgow, and Avignon.

Old Oct 6th, 2022, 11:03 AM
  #41  
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Still.

Anstruther Harbor.

Why not?

Royalty approved.
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Old Oct 6th, 2022, 12:30 PM
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Right to Roam laws in Scotland
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Old Oct 6th, 2022, 12:50 PM
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I like the sound of that, bilbo.

Two more from Fife, then off to Glasgow.


Lobster roll was £6 something.

Had to prove i was there, to my Old Course-loving friends.
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Old Oct 6th, 2022, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bilboburgler View Post
Right to Roam laws in Scotland
So would it have been legal to walk across a private club fairway? Not trespassing?
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Old Oct 6th, 2022, 03:04 PM
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Trespass doesn't really exist in Scotland except is special conditions, like railways or schools/government buildings but it depends a bit on why you are there, eg burglary, but you would have been fine and since in the whole of the UK it is more or less a civil crime not a crime against the state, they would have to pay lawyers to come after you rather than call any cops.

I think that is how it works Even in England which has thousands of miles of footpaths the worst you get for walking off the path is an ear bashing.

As always courtesy counts for a lot.
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Old Oct 6th, 2022, 07:52 PM
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I like a country that thinks like that, bilbo.

They probably wouldn't set dogs on me, either.
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Old Oct 7th, 2022, 10:28 AM
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I suppose the distillery didn’t want to let random foreigners wander around, not even one directly descended from several of the first kings of Scotland and Alba: some Malcoms, a couple of Kenneths and a Duncan. (I added that last part, possibly true, to annoy any lineage-deniers who’ve skimmed ahead to scoff.)



By the way, thanks to janis for saying there would be plenty to do in Fife for a couple of days. I could have stayed several days longer, puttered around the Coastal Path, eaten fish, been glad.



6-8 SEPTEMBER, GLASCOW. H now on her way to London



Why Glasgow? I’d heard “gritty,” wanted to see a place that produced James McAvoy, Armando Iannucci, Craig Ferguson, Peter Capaldi. Two nights and one full day was of course nowhere near enough, but I had a London rendezvous to keep. Coming to it from peaceful Crail might have made Glasgow seem that little bit more so.



Two buses and two trains got me to impressive Queen St. Station and George Square. Soot blackened statues with pigeons, towering red stone facades. It was disorienting. I found bus 6A, gritty ride to Lansdowne Crescent stop at the Tesco, then a couple of blocks to humble Albion Hotel on N Woodside Drive. Thank you, dfourh, for suggesting this general location. I never took the subway, but was glad to be in this residential area, walking distance to parks, University, museums, interesting places to eat.



The Albion turned out to be just right for my needs. Small room, ensuite first floor overlooking the river, I think £110 for two nights without breakfast. Clean, comfortable bed, quiet street. My only concern was a thick carpet on the steep curved stairs that gave my feet not quite enough purchase. I made myself a cup of tea with the kettle, looked out the window. Uniformed schoolchildren on their way home inspired me to get out and about.



I headed down Park Rd and across the River Kelvin to the University. Massive, ancient. Looked into the Hunterian Museum, unfortunately having puttered around a little too long to see much. Out, down past the impressive new James McCune Smith Learning Hub. Wonderful architecture. I stopped in to rest and enjoy the creative wide open space.



Then up Byres Rd in search of supper. It was a little rainy, but still too pleasant to sit inside. So this is the West End. I like it. Walking on the west side of Byres Rd down a funky little lane I spotted the Hanoi Bike Shop, a Vietnamese restaurant with tables out under an awning. Perfect haven. Eavesdropped, sketched, not really hungry, got takeaway. Back up Byres, past other promising-looking eateries. At Great Western Rd, to get back across the river, I passed Oran Mór in an immense former church. This was the second such repurposing I’d seen along a short stretch of Great Western Rd. How rapidly has Scotland become secularized? These old churches must be very expensive to heat and maintain, of course.



Back in my room, a little TV. New and exiting PMs fly separately to Balmoral to see the Queen. Separately? Not speaking?
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Old Oct 7th, 2022, 10:55 AM
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At Hunterian


A quiet byway, with food.
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Old Oct 7th, 2022, 01:48 PM
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<<Sunday morning I stopped into the quick mart to buy a newspaper, saw that Liz Truss had won. When I remarked on this to the counterman, he seemed mystified, took the paper and started reading headlines. My outland accent, or did he have any idea there was a PM race on? >>

Could be political ignorance, could be that the Scots feel less affected by doings in Westminster because they have a devolved government.

Still loving travelling with you and seeing Scotland through your eyes, especially the many places you are visiting that I've never been to, or visited so long ago I have completely forgotten about them .
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Old Oct 7th, 2022, 03:30 PM
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Albion Hotel stairs.
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Old Oct 7th, 2022, 03:43 PM
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Thank you. Ann. Might you have a Germany TR?

I asked my Crail hosts their views on Scottish Independence. They split their votes last time, don't feel passionately one way or another,. Chris thought a new referendum would have same result as the last one.
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Old Oct 8th, 2022, 10:36 AM
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<<Back in my room, a little TV. New and exiting PMs fly separately to Balmoral to see the Queen. Separately? Not speaking?>>

Sorry I missed this query earlier, Stoke. No, not speaking,

Last edited by Moderator1; Oct 11th, 2022 at 01:58 PM. Reason: removed some overtly political comments
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Old Oct 8th, 2022, 12:50 PM
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I'll try not to expose too much my ignorance of UK politics or economics, but I found PM Truss TV interview the next morning underwhelming. I know, safe to say at this time.


I began to get a little of the Glasgow flavor. The broad accents. Albion front desk woman had told me I could go anywhere I wanted, except the parks at night.

Wednesday morning she wanted to make sure everything was all right. Yes, it was. Coffee at Sonny & Vito's, a 20's fellow customer sang along with Janis Joplin's "Piece of My Heart." Down through Kelvingrove Park towards the Art Museum and Gallery, old plane trees fragrant and still green, past the Happy Bench and the Duck Pond to the Museum just as it opened. Beeline for café and just one more cappuccino. I could have stayed at the Kelvingrove Gallery and Museum a lot longer, both the natural history and the Scottish fine arts sides, but I'd decided to make it to the Oran Mór for their 1300 lunchtime event, A Pie, A Pint, A Play. New works staged, this week Sally.

Any of my doubts about repurposed churches disappeared at the Oran Mór. The main floor is now an inviting pub. You buy your ticket there, then go deep into a basement, collect your pint at the bar, get a vegan or meat pie. Almost full by the time I settled into my folding chair. Capacity two hundred or less? The show was terrific in every way. Witty lines and original concept, topical, well-acted. Unfortunately it was only on for that week; go see it if you can.

https://www.broadwayworld.com/scotla...asgow-20220907

That evening was free, so on impulse I took a 6A bus to Theatre Royal to see Bugsy Malone, a classic musical I'd never seen. I got a good seat for not much money. Live orchestra, interesting and effective sets, excellent dancers. Then the principals started doing their thing, appeared to be between ~11 and 14 years old. Pre-adolescent. Cute, with mostly very good singing voices, but full-on dang juveniles. Sometimes rushing their lines, as kids will do. Bugsy stood a head shorter than his leading lady, who really did sing very well. It was entertaining, certainly, but by intermission I felt I'd gotten as much out of it as I could hope for. I didn't like standing out for a bus much later at night, anyway, so i slipped out.

Next morning, another easy bus to Central Station. I understood when the barista asked if I wanted chocolate on my cappuccino, just because I'd been asked that before. Yes, please. Huge line for the 0930 Avanti West train to Euston; 0830 one had been canceled. I hated to leave Scotland.

Last edited by stokebailey; Oct 8th, 2022 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Oct 8th, 2022, 01:09 PM
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I'd have tried it maybe eventually.

Kelvingrove breakfast, with porridge and berries.

A beautiful country.
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 08:44 AM
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LONDON WITH H, AND SUDDEN SAD WORLD NEWS, (AND OUR PERSONAL NEWS JOLT) September 8 - 14



We had already booked a 1br apartment in Parker Mews, Covent Garden, through SnoozyStays when MC came aboard. We decided to keep it for the location, though a little tight for three. The girls could share a double bed, and there’s a sleepable couch. Quiet gated mews, ground floor with not much street noise even though right up against Gillian Lynne Theatre stage door. Perfectly adequate for us, and great for walking, bus routes. The Snoozy guys were very responsive to our little concerns.



Our daughter H is the one who had gotten her KCL Master’s and then worked awhile in London, still has several friends there. She had arrived the day before and gone salsa dancing near the Temple, an easy walk, home late. She brought me my contactless credit card from home, and my tattered bus route map. By this time we realized our phones would not work for calls, despite previously being assured that they would, and we were restricted pretty much to wifi. Data otherwise is very pricey.



We met up in time for supper. Both of our girls are subject to fits of frugality that don’t always dovetail with my own. In this case, when H suggested waiting until 19:30, the last half hour when Itsu sushi goes half price, I thought that sounded just fine. Neither of us had tried this chain, ubiquitous in London, but there was one just around the corner. Contactless cards only. We set out into a light rain with umbrellas, had a perfectly fine meal as the staff turned chairs up, decided to walk to Trafalgar Square.



We’d heard that the Queen had taken a serious turn in Scotland, family hurrying to her bedside, but two days before I’d seen the photo of her smiling as Ms. Truss loomed over her to shake hands. Seemed fine. As we turned onto the Strand we saw a lighted kiosk with her portrait, and both of our spines tingled as we read “1926-2022.”



The next morning was my birthday, and H as always wanted to make it lovely for me. I’d gotten us the last two front row seats for The Seagull months back, Harold Pinter Theatre. I requested coffee and pastry at Monmouth Coffee, where in 2016 I'd eavesdropped on John Cusack telling his tablemates that Donald Trump would “burn the house down.” At the time I didn’t understand the phrase.



Then back down to Trafalgar Square, sill looking pretty normal, and through the Admiralty Arch down the Mall towards Buckingham Palace. Mostly pretty normal still at 09:30. We walked in the street, where workers cleared wet leaves from the gutters. Closer to the Palace still a small crowd. Bunting was being hung -- bright red, white and blue against the fading trees – while news crews staked out positions nearby. Though sudden, this event was not unexpected, was well prepared for. People hurried up with bouquets, and police directed them to an orderly queue where they could lay their tributes against the fence. Not many flowers yet.



H found us bus 29 that took us from Victoria St. to Hampstead, near the bottom end of the Heath. It’s always fun riding through Camden Town, past where we once caught the last bus back from Blues Kitchen. We planned to walk up to Kenwood House.



We settled on Silverberry for lunch, were glad we did. Back patio with umbrellas, sweet servers, just the kind of food we wanted. Just as my lunch was served, we got a family WhatsApp from Bob, newly arrived in Paris:
:
“I just got pickpocketed on a crowded metro. Took my wallet and all my credit cards and 100 euros, and my drivers license! Looking for my hotel now and then will go to police. I have no money or way to get it at this point.”




Flashback to August.

Me: Here’s a money belt.

Bob: I don’t need it. My pants have lots of zippered pockets.

Me: Well, at least don’t keep everything in one place.

Bob: (husband equivalent of yeah, yeah.)



Though I mentioned this exchange to a few others, and now several of you, I deserve wifely restraint award of the year for never reminding him. He felt, and still feels, plenty bad already.

The sweetness of servers was key here, as we mooched off their wifi, worked out what we could possibly do, waited for MC -- back in the Midwest and getting herself ready for the trip while teleworking -- to wake up and pitch in.

Last edited by stokebailey; Oct 11th, 2022 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 09:27 AM
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Quiet Square.



Waiting.
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 10:39 AM
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Sorry about the diversion and to return to your delightful TR, [whatever one thinks of the concept of royalty] what a momentous time to be in London! But commiserations to your DH, and kudos to you for your admirable restraint.
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 12:05 PM
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We have deleted a few posts. Let's keep politics off of the general forums.
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 02:09 PM
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​​​​​​
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Old Oct 11th, 2022, 02:36 PM
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Stokebailey,
Do the fish and chips restaurants in Crail and Anstruther have a dining room? Or is it only take-away? Per janisj, we plan on spending 2 nights in Crail. Do you remember how many rooms your B&B have?

Glasgow looks very interesting. I like gritty. Not sure if we will have time to visit, though.
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