Apres_Londee

Ack, I should be asleep but I got caught up reading. Really enjoying your report!

I just googled Dominot and the first thing that came up was Dominoe's Pizza but a couple of links down was his wikipedia page: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominot La Dolce Vita is one of my all time favourite movies, I'm going to have to pull it out and watch for him.

Apres_Londee

Wait, here he is!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sDoAc3e-lQ

annhig

hi apres,

thanks for the links. I had a desultory look for things about him when we got home but hadn't bothered since. I would never have guessed he was 80, but now I think about it, it makes sense.

I'm sorry to have kept you away from your bed!

2010 - glad you enjoyed reading about Orvieto, and sorry you missed the funicular. I'm sure that we'd have "missed" it too [in both senses of the word] if i'd not read about it on fodors. many thanks to the poster who mentioned it, and apologies for having forgotten who you are!

annhig

Vai ragazzo!

i can now say with confidence that that's one of the things that the italian crowds are chanting at a rugby [and i suppose a football match]. [calcio to the italians]. they also shout "ITALIA, ITALIA" at full pitch, start singing the italian national anthem at regular intervals, and generally behave just as I imagine the the crowd in the colosseum would have acted. scarey!

Match day had dawned very bright and from our point of view, surprisingly early. that rather threw our plans, because we'd been thinking about having brunch at a nearby restaurant that we had seen offered it on a Sunday. However, we were up much too early, and wanting breakfast. so we let our feet take us towards the piazza navona, and we ended up in the little bar where we'd bought our milk on the first night. why there? it was full of italians have their breakfasts, AND there was a table for 3 - perfect.

by now we were well-versed in the Roman breakfast routine - order your drink [due cappucini e una cioccolata calda per favore] at the bar, and point to the pastry you want to accompany it, which will be handed to you in a serviette. there is a vast variety of these croissant-type offerings - plain, with apple, with custard, or chocolate, or ...then pay at the end. in this case, €6.90 - quite a bargain.

What next? we needed some bus tickets for getting up to the rugby stadium, so we called in at a "tabac" and bought our tickets - 6 x €1 for today, one each, there and back. we'd researched the buses, and we could either catch the no 280 all the way there, and walk back to the stadium from the terminus, or walk up to the piazza del popolo and catch the tram from there. as we'd never been that far north in Rome, and wanted to explore a new area, that got our vote, but it still left about 2 hours or so before we needed to set out.

well, as we'd been walking, we'd found ourselves looking down the via della concillazione at St. Peter's, but it beig Sunday, we didn't think that it was the most sensible day to go visiting the Pope, so we turned our back on it, and made for the Castel san Angelo. we'd never visited it before, and frankly, I don't think I'd bother again, especially at the full price of about €9 per adult, and €6 for a student. However, for reasons we never established, they were having a half-price sale, and we all got in for €12.

we spent an hour or so exploring the castle, with the customary exhibitions of armour, guns and uniforms and then went up to the roof - definitely the best bit for the terrific views over Rome. then we grabbed a coffee in what must be one of the most scenic cafes in Rome, and made our way back to the apartment, which now took us about 5 minutes, rather than the 10 we were taking when we first arrived.

What clothes to wear? it was a lovely warm day, but we were concious that it might turn cold later; OTOH, we didn't want to be weighed down by coats and jackets...and then I noticed DS's shoes. "You can't wear those, they're falling to bits"
"well, I can't wear the others, they HAVE fallen to bits" was the reply. I'm sure that other parents have had to accompany a child who is insufficiently clothed or shod, but this was beyond a joke. another 3 days plus the trip home to go, and DS had no footwear that was worthy of the name.

"I'll be fine, there's no problem" said DS, and truly there was very little I could do about it, as his feet are twice the size of mine, and quite a lot bigger than DH's too. so with his soles flapping about as he walked like some latter day Charlie Chaplin, we set off. thank goodness it wasn't wet! we'd decided to start off by walking along the river, and then to turn off to the piazza del popolo by the ara pacis, which seemed to be the plan of lots of other England supporters too, as there were loads of people walking in the same direction, bedecked in England shirts and scarves. DH and DS had decided to wear their Cornwall rugby shirts [by their black and gold shall ye know them], and amazingly in one bar, we found another 18 Cornish supporters, all from a small village near our home - hi guys!

By the time we were near the piazza del popolo, the streets were thronged with england and Italy supporters, and all the restaurants were heaving. not sure what to do about eating and what woudl be available closer to the ground, we were looknig around when I spied a shoe shop, and not only a shoe shop, but a shoe shop with a SALE! poor DS, before he knew what had happened to him, he'd been dragged in there and made to try on some shoes. "il piu economico, per favore" [mangling my italian, but never mind] and the assistant kindly found some that she thought might suit. Many are the hours that I've spent with DS in shoes shops, sadly rarely happy ones. but somehow, what with my determination, and the assistant's patience, we found a pair that fitted and only cost €29 - a real bargain.

then it was back out into the throng, and a phnoe-call to DH [who had mysteriously disappeared when I'd first spotted the shoe shop] who said he'd found a restaurant and got a table, so would guide us in, a bit like a heat-seeking missile - or in this case, a pizza-seeking one! this turned out to be an outside table on the street just on the edge of the piazza - so lots of scope for people watching as we ate our lunch. sadly, this proved to be the least satisfactory meal that we had - the food was OK, but with drinks and a whopping great 15% service charge, it cost about €85 - we should have known better!

we did take the chance to buy a programme from a seller who gave us a nice lecture about the way to address him [Scusi was his preferred apelation] so we were able to look at the teams, and MOST important, check on the words to the italian national anthem, which DS was looking forward to singing. then replete [sort of] and adequately shod, we set off to find the tram. However, we soon realised that this would be difficult if not impossible - they were digging up the road where it should have gone, and there was no sign of a place to get on it! so along with everyone else, we squeezed past the barriers in the middle of the road, and set off to walk to the stadium. Really it wasn't too bad - it's a dead straight road, with lots of bars along the way should one wish to imbibe, a few cafes and restaurants [all heaving], and after about 20 mins, we were there - well, almost. in fact, a bit like a hill with a false summit, the stadium was not exactly where we thought and it was about another 10 mins further on when we came to a square which was full of places selling beer.

yes, that's right, beer. did you know that italians like beer? certainly rugby supporting italians do, if the no of stalls selling beer near the ground were anything to go by. and lest you say that they were for the Brits, not a bit of it...they were full of supporters of every hue. but we wanted gelati. and just like a policeman, there's a never a gelateria around when you want one. in fact we walked all round the square and there were a number of restaurants and bars catering to the pre-match lunch trade [and very nice they looked too - memo to self for next time] but sadly no gelateria.

"perhaps there'll be one inside the stadium" we said, so we crossed the road, went through the very cursory security cordon [I've no idea what they were looking for and by the look of it, neither did they] and immediately realised that we were gonig to be out of luck, because inside, apart from some stalls selling porchetta, it was "beer, beer, beer" all the way. we had to really fight our way through the crowds, and then the throngs at the gates to get to the seating [not very safe, if truth be told], but finally we were through, and climbing up what was really only some temporary scaffolding, to get to our seats, which turned out to be way above the pitch, but with a pretty good view, all things considered.

with only 15 minutes to go it seemed impossible that they would get everyone seated by kick-off, but with a very few exceptions they manamged it, and we were off. First a pretty decent rendition of "The Queen" by the england supporters, who made up about 1/3 of the crowd, then it was no holds barred for the Italian anthem. I noticed that we were not the only Brits joining in - I hope it's not a treasonable offence!

To be honest, it was downhill after that - England played pretty badly and didn't deserve their win. the italian crowd was very involved - screaming at their favourites, shouting at the ref, turning down their thumbs when a bad tackle was shown on the big screen - watching them was better than watching the match! all this fuelled by the beer that was in constant supply by vendors who came past every 5 minutes or so - no chance of getting thirsty.

leaving was easier than arriving - we managed to slip out of a side exit, and started to walk back towards the city, along with several thousand other folks. again, it seemed impossible to get on a tram or bus, so we just walked along with everyone else - at least it broke DS's shoes in! we almost stopped off at a very nice tea-shop we found en route, but decided we'd rather get back to the apartment and have one there, so we walked back through the piazza, and then along the river, which by now was all lit up and very pretty.

After a welcome cuppa, supper was at the ristorante il fico, just round the corner from the apartment on monte giordano. we'd spotted it when going past on a number of occasions, and liked the look of it, so this time, we decided to go in. starters were fiori fritti [for me, of course] and for DS and DH, fried baby octopus, which were delicious. tehn I had that old favourite, saltimbocca, DS had a veal chop [very good] and DH, who won't eat veal on principle, had a steak. with contorni, a 1/2 litre of wine, water, coffee, and a very luscious chocolate pud for DS, it all cme to no more than we'd paid for a fairly mediocre lunch! the service was good, and the food was delicious. A hit!

after that feast, we were pretty pleased that we had only to stagger around two corners to get home, and in no time we were tucked up in bed, looking forward to another day.

KK_Cat

Thanks Ann, another good day by the sounds of it (apart from the match itself of course!). I like the sound of the boys Cornwall jerseys of black and gold. Our own (Kilkenny, Ireland) colours are the same (although we say black & amber). A few years ago we were in Paris for a week and when we came home I met a local man who commented that he had seen us at mass in Sacre Coeur the previous Sunday! My nephew was with us and wearing the Kilkenny jersey and it does stand out in a crowd. He was 9 at the time and we used to wash out the jersey most nights and make him wear it all the time as we had also discovered that it stood out in a crowd and made us less likely to lose sight of him in busy streets

We were in Castel Sant Angelo in 2006. I can't remember much about the building (that in itself says it all I suppose) but I agree there is a fabulous view from the top, I have some great photos taken from there.

€29 shoes - must have a look at some shoe shops ;-)

annhig

hi KKCAt,

it was a good day. in fact, so good that I'm taking DH to Paris to see the last match of the 6 nations for his birthday. the fact that it means I ge tto go back to Parisis by the by!

those stand-out jumpers are useful, aren't they? we lost DS at epcot once when he was about 9, and you wouldn't believe how many boys there were of about that age wearing navy hoodies! Even now he's 19, I still find them useful.

interested in €29 shoes? - look out for some more shoes in the next exciting installment....

MissPrism

I got back from Rome yesterday by overnight train.
I went with Canon Chasuble and my daughter and it's interesting that we each had our own highlight.
Daughter's was the Scavi tour, the Canon loved the Borghese and I really liked our trip to Ostia.
http://www.initaly.com/regions/latium/ostia.htm
I hadn't realised how much there was there and how well preserved it is. The station to it is quite close to the Protestant Ceremony, well worth a visit.
We also saw a very good Caravaggio exhibition.
We stayed in a very nice flat
http://www.friendlyrentals.com/en/ap...t-2589-220.htm
literally a stone's throw from the Pantheon with a little supermarket just round the corner and a coffee bar just across the road where we leaned on the bar with the locals enjoy our breakfast coffee and croissants.
We walked everywhere apart from taking the train to Ostia.
Sadly Bernini's beautiful Four Rivers fountain in Piazza Navona was again surrounded by scaffolding and we had to peer at it through the holes.

annhig

hi missprism [love the screen name btw]

we went to Ostia on our first trip and were equally impressed. However, in two visits, we have yet to make the Borghese - an excuse to return perhaps?

we were lucky that last time we went, abotu 4 years ago, the piazza navona was blessedly free of scaffolding.

thanks for posting. that apartment looks nice!

annhig

On with Monday!

over supper the night before [very good, we still talk about those yummy fried baby octipi] we had discussed what we wanted to do the next day. for DS, top of the list was going back to St. Peter's to climb the dome, something he's wanted to do since we went to Rome the first time, and he wasn't going to let us leave without doing it. However, we knew that we'd need to be up early as the queues later on were likely to be grim. DH said he wasn't too fussed [I think he was being lazy and wanting a morning in bed!] so DS and I were up by 8am, and having breakfast at the little bar round the corner by 8.30. this time, our third visit, we were greeted, if not like old friends, certainly like welcome acquaintances, and I suspect that people who are lucky enough to be able to make extended stays in cities like Rome, will pretty quickly be able to develop a string of places where they are known and welcomed. one day, perhaps?

what a difference two days had made in the weather. whilst not exactly warm, there was no sign of the snow that we'd trudged through on our last visit to St. Peter's, and it was sunny with some blue sky - a good omen for a climb up to the dome. By 9am we were in the very short security queue for entry into the Basilica, and five minutes later queuing up to pay our €7 each [€5 if you don't take the lift which by-passes the first 200 steps]. the entrance to the dome is through some large doors to the right of the Basilica, and is well signposted. after paying, follow the signs and you soon come to the lift, which takes about 8 people at once.

At the top of the left, or the staircase, you exit onto the roof of st. Peter's and anyone who didn't want to climb further [or at all] could stop at that level and enjoy the view of the vatican, the statues, and a very handy cafe. [and some even handier loos!]. however, if you opt for the full monty, there aren't any signs, but follow the common herd up some steps, and through a door which leads onto an enclosed balcony over the main aisle of the cathedral, the main attraction of which is the chance to get up close and personal with some of the mosaics that encircle the inside of the building. they are amazingly intricate with fantastic gradations of colour and detail and I could have spent quite a long time looking at them had it not been for the press of people coming through this space, on their way to the dome.

We had eventually to tear ourselves away, and going through a door that says "up" [or something similar] we found ourselves at the bottom of a very narrow and steep staircase that followed the shape of the inside of the Dome and with only one choice, up we went. and up, and up. Just as i was beginning to think that I couldn't go any further, there was a bit of a ledge by a tiny window, and with another lady of a certain age, took the chance for a rest. Surely it couldn't be much further? as there was no alternative, after a short breather I set off again, and thank goodness, after about another 50 steps, a landing appeared. this is then followed by a series of shorter, wider flights of stairs, and finally a narrow turret leading to the very top. Phew. we'd made it.

You know that tiny dome that you can see when you're standing in front of St. Peter's? with those tiny people no bigge than pin-pricks? though it's not exactly big when you get up there, it's much bigger than it looks, with a wide balcony encircling it rewarding the energetic folks who have made it to the top with a terrific view over the city, and [to me at least] an unexpected one into the Vatican gardens, including a very impressive water-feature and and something that had it been bigger, might have been called a potager. we spent a good 10 minutes up there, before deciding that we ought to start down - a much easier business than coming up!

we were quickly down at roof level again, and it was only then that its delights became obvious; as well as a close-up view of the beautifully weathered and aged roof-tiles of St. peter's, you can go up close to the back of the statues that overlook the front of the basilica, which look massive from so close up. there is also, as I said above, a cafe and toilets, which would be very useful for anyone who had either got to the bottom of the stairs and decided against going further, or someone who never intended to go "all the way" but still wanted to enjoy as much of the experience as possible.

we walked down the last 200 steps as quickly as the lift had taken us up, and emerged into the Basilica, spending a last few minutes drinking it in again, and looking up to the internal balcony where we'd inspected the mosaics, high above us now in the roof-space. but we had sadly to tear ourselves away as we'd arranged to meet DH at about 10.30 at the end of the ponte vittorio emanuale so that we could catch the bus to DS's next "must see" - the colosseum.

kwren

Thanks for pointing out this trip report to me! I'm so excited to go to Rome and am loving all your details!

kismetchimera

The apartment seems very nice annihig and the location is super.I will keep in mind nest year, I plan to travel again to Europe with my daughter.

I returned from Rome a month ago and already feel nostalgic thinking about it.
Enjoyed reading your report.

annhig

thanks, Kwren & Kismet.

kismet - the apartment would be perfect for two, or a couple with a small child. it was a bit tight for the three of us, but the situation, which is excellent, more than made up for it. I'd certainly stay there again if it were just me and DH.

in fact, you've both done ME a favour as i realise that i didn't finish the report! how did that happen? I'll do my best to finish it asap.

kismetchimera

Last October I was traveling with my granddaughter and we stayed for 4 days at Residenza Canali ai Coronari..Great location,we had a nice large room and a good Buffet Breakfast.

I remember that everytimes we walked to the Pantheon there were some very handsome Carabinieri standing by and Brooke would always says..I love Italians Men..

I must say that the Young Carabinieri were Gorgeous.

KK_Cat

Just a quick note to follow up for any future Fodorites who may browse this thread (and Annhig who might be curious Purely based on the recommendations in this thread I booked the Casa di Clelia apartment that Annhig and her family stayed in for myself and my parents. We just returned yesterday after a week in Rome staying in the Apartment. I fully endorse all of Ann's comments. It is in a fantastic location and was perfect for us as you can walk to so many places especially the Vatican which was a leisurely 10 minute walk (you could do it in 5 if you felt so inclined).

We did cook in the apartment (nothing complicated) and the single bed in the 2nd bedroom was so comfortable that last night when back in my own bed I resolved to buy a new mattress! As my parents need a fair bit of rest time we came back to the apartment during in mid afternoon for a while before heading out again, so it was lovely to have a "home" rather than a hotel room.

Ann's hint about going to the roof of St Peter's in the lift without actually going to the top of the dome was fantastic, there is no way my parents could do the dome climb but they were thrilled to get the opportunity to walk around the inside of the dome and look down into the church which you get to do without actually having to go up to the Cupola itself.

After a visit to the Forum we went up in the Panoramic lift at the back of the Vittorio Emaluele II monument - that is one amazing view and no extra money for the giant binoculars they have up there either. Even though it was right in the middle of the day there was no queue at all for it - straight into the lift. Parents even got it half price (the benefits of being an EU citizen over 65, better still the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine and Galleria Borghese were free for them

annhig

KK-CAT,

I'm so pleased that the casa di clelia worked out so well for you. DS did not comment on the comfortableness of the single bed - perhaps he's spoilt at home!

I do think that the location is ideal, as is the flat if you are two or three people. I'm glad that the subterranean design of the bedrooms didn't disturb you - I know that a few posters were put off by that, but IMO the convenience of being on the ground floor made up for that.

where next for you and/or your parents?

KK_Cat

Hi Ann, If anything I think that the bedrooms being in the basement gave us a better nights sleep. We live in the country here in Ireland and are used to peaceful nights, during our time out in Rome there seemed to be ambulance sirens going somewhere constantly! Only having to deal with one flight of stairs was an advantage to us as my parents would not have been able to go up and down several flights in the apartment, there were enough steps to deal with already elsewhere around the city

Not sure where is next yet, possibly Berlin. The only definite we have so far is Orlando in Nov 2011. I'm a bit of a Disney fan, and the sun doesn't hurt either ;-)

Regards
Anne Marie

annhig

We live in the country here in Ireland and are used to peaceful nights, >>

do you find that you can sleep through the foxes, owls and cockerels, but wake at the sound of a motorino? that's us too.

i haven't thought about that benefit of subterranean sleeping, but now you mention it...

if you like Rome, I'm sure you'd like Berlin. the same buzz, lots to do, cheap food...