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-   -   St. Gilgen or Hallstatt? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/st-gilgen-or-hallstatt-290830/)

TexasAggie Jan 23rd, 2008 02:57 PM

St. Gilgen or Hallstatt?
 
DH and I visited Hallstatt for a day on our family trip last June and found the area beautiful. We are planning to stay there for 2.5 days, 3 nights on our upcoming trip in mid-May. Recently I've come across several posts from Fodorites whom I respect highly, and they recommend St. Gilgen as a better base for the Salzkammergut region.

I'm certainly open to staying elsewhere and am hoping to discover why St. Gilgen makes a better base. It looks like a larger town but as if it still small enough to retain character and charm. Accurate?

bobthenavigator Jan 23rd, 2008 03:19 PM

Hello Aggie, I suspect you mean me, among others.
Hallstatt is magical but rather remote. I assume you will want a day trip into Salzburg which can be done by car or train in :30 from St. Gilgen. It is just better located. Spend one of your days going to Hallsatt--it is worth a day. But, the Wolfgangsee area is a base location for all of the Salzkammergut including Berchesgarten in one direction, Salzburg in another, and Hallstatt in the other. Email me for some pics of St. Gilgen, which is still small and quaint. BettyK also has a great photo gallery.

TexasAggie Jan 23rd, 2008 03:27 PM

Hi bob,
Yep, you and bettyk are the two posters who I was referring to :-) You both are wonderful sources of info on the area, and many others, so I pay attention when you guys have a strong opinion.
We will be visiting Salzburg for a couple nights at the end of the trip and were there last year for 3 days, so we actually will not be daytripping there during our time in the Salzkammergut. Our plans were to spend the 2.5 days entirely in the Salkammergut area. There were enough remaining things we wanted to see in Hallstatt to fill 1 full day but we would definitely we wanting to explore other lakes/villages for the other day and a half. That noted, it does sound like St. Gilgen is a better base?

bettyk Jan 23rd, 2008 08:20 PM

Oh, what a dilemma! If you had asked me this question before September when we spent 3 wonderful days on Wolfgangsee, I would have definitely said Hallstatt. We fell in love with Hallstatt on our first trip there in 1999 and have been back 3 or 4 times since. But last year, we decided it was time to branch out and be adventurous so we stayed in St. Gilgen.

From St. Gilgen, you can take the boat to St. Wolfgang, a lovely little town for wandering and shopping. Then take the steam train up to Schafberg for the most amazing views over the Salzkammergut. I checked my trip report notes and found the following:

We sailed on the popular Wolfgang Amadeus and it took about 30 minutes to get to St. Wolfgang. Wolfgang is a beautiful little village with many more shops and tourists than St. Gilgen. Considering that this was Sunday, just about every shop was open. We walked toward the Bergbahnhof where we would get on our steam train to the top of the Schafberg. We came to the lovely lakeside church which had unbelievable views over the Wolfgangsee. Once we reached the Bergbahnhof, we decided to get a bit of lunch then we took the 2 PM train up the mountain. The train ride up to the top of the mountain takes 50 minutes and makes one intermediate stop not far from the top. It is rather bumpy going up but the views are just awesome. Once on top, you have to make your return reservation right away and since the next train at 3:10 was already full, we had to wait until 4:10 to get back to St. Wolfgang where we would catch the last boat to St. Gilgen at 5:08 PM. Since we had over an hour before our train left, we walked a bit and found a nice wooden bench to sit on while we contemplated the amazing sites before us. The Schafbergbahn is the steepest cog railway in Austria and has been running from St. Wolfgang to Schafberg since 1893. In a little over 45 minutes, it travels 1190 meters of altitude over a track 5.85 km long. On a clear day, you have a 360° panoramic view of the Salzkammergut lakes. Today we saw Wolfgangsee, Mondsee, Attersee and Traunsee. You can also see some of the most majestic mountains in the region including the Höllengebirge, Dachstein, Löser, and the Watzmann. A few clouds started creeping into our very blue skies and the air became chillier. Before long, it was time for us to get in line for our return train, which would be a diesel this trip. We arrived in St. Wolfgang about 15 minutes before our boat departed for St. Gilgen. This time we got to ride on the 1873 Franz Josef I steam paddlewheel boat.


Just reading that makes me yearn to go back.

bettyk Jan 23rd, 2008 08:38 PM

I might add one other thing. While St. Wolfgang was larger and had more going on that St. Gilgen, we were glad that we had not stayed in St. Wolfgang. We liked the fact that St. Gilgen was smaller and quieter yet there were still souvenir shops, grocery stores, good restaurants, etc.

We also took a fiaker ride in St. Gilgen on our last day. In retrospect, we should have done it on our first day but we thoroughly enjoyed the ride and the driver! We'd never ridden in a fiaker before but thought St. Gilgen the perfect place for our inaugural ride!

Maudie Jan 23rd, 2008 10:02 PM

Bookmarking - I have been following your posts TexasAggie as we are planning a trip around the same areas for May 2009. I hope you do a trip report!
This also answers one of the questions I have about where to stay in the Salzkammergut, I was leaning towards St Gilgen.
Best wishes for a wonderful trip.

WTnow Jan 23rd, 2008 10:53 PM

Hi TexasAggie,

As you know, we just looooved Hallstatt and spent 3 nights there this past fall. We found plenty to do in that time and they also had an octoberfest going on which added to the excitement and beauty.

We also saw St Gilgen and frankly we were disappointed by it as I had heard great things about it. There is really no comparison between the two in my mind, with Hallstatt being the MUCH more beautiful and charming one.

That said, I understand where the other posters are coming from and perhaps it will better meet your needs. I just thought I would give another perspective.

We found Hallstatt to be one of the prettiest places in Europe, so if it was me, i would stay the whole time in Hallstatt. It is rare to have the opportunity to soak up this kind of beauty.

You will have a wonderful time no matter what you decide!

farrermog Jan 24th, 2008 03:56 AM

Not only is St Wolfgang a lovely little town, the local pharmacist stocked a (non prescription) magic potion (herbal I assume) for hayfever when I was there in the late spring of 1986 and suffering terribly with swollen eyes. Almost instantaneous relief after a few drops on the tongue - it sure beat anything I've had from Big Pharma. Regret I didn't keep the small bottle it came in.

Hallstatt has a more spectacular setting than the Wolfgangsee towns/ villages, but was very quiet when I was there. Others may have a view on the merits of using Bad Ischl, midway between those, as a base (with easy bus connections to the Wolfgangsee, train to the Traunsee, & etc).

ira Jan 24th, 2008 04:26 AM

Hi TA,

>Our plans were to spend the 2.5 days entirely in the Salkammergut area.

You might find my trip report useful.

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=35014078

((I))

bettyk Jan 24th, 2008 07:08 AM

Hallstatt IS one of the most beautiful places we've ever been. If you just want to stay in Hallstatt and soak up the beauty, I agree, and would have no problem with that. But the OP has been to Hallstatt.

I just feel that St. Gilgen is a good BASE for spending a few days in the area. I think if you look at our photos, you can't possibly think that St. Gilgen and Wolfgangsee would be disappointing.

http://travel.webshots.com/album/561...XxDcvw?start=0

TexasAggie Jan 24th, 2008 07:26 AM

Hi Everyone,

Thank you all so much for the input! I actually escaped the office early last night and was so happily surprised to discover all this feedback and information this morning. I appreciate it all greatly. I'll be looking over everything for the next couple days and will let you all know what we end up choosing :-)


Maudie Jan 24th, 2008 01:53 PM

Beautiful photo's Betty, well done!

bettyk Jan 24th, 2008 02:07 PM

Thanks, Maudi. It was an amazing trip!

Maudie Jan 24th, 2008 10:58 PM

Betty, if I may hijack TesasAggie's post, can you please give me a link to your trip report? I thought I had saved it but now can't find it.
I have clicked on your name but you have soooo many posts it will take me ages. Thanks so much

bettyk Jan 25th, 2008 10:38 AM

LOL! Yes, Maudie, here's the link to the 2007 trip report:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=35079647

Maudie Jan 25th, 2008 04:12 PM

Thanks Betty, that's great and will give me some reading to do as we celebrate our Australia Day long weekend.

TexasAggie Jan 25th, 2008 05:11 PM

Wonderful trip report betty! I read it previously and just printed it to read again this weekend :-) Your pictures are lovely as well.

After a lot of back-and-forth, I've decided to go ahead and stay in Hallstatt for the 3 nights... but drive to St. Gilgen for one day and see the town and take the boat across the Wolfgangsee to St. Wolfgang. Perhaps it is just the time of year (we are both accountants in the midst of busy seasons that will stretch to almost the beginning of out trip), but the idea of spending a couple very lazy, very slow days in the middle of our 16-day trip sounds very appealing. We love Austria, so if we fall in love with St. Gilgen during our day there... well we will just have to stay there on the next trip!

Thank you ALL for your input, your links, your photos, and your advice. I appreciate it all very much. Even though we won't be staying in St. Gilgen, I was able to get so much information on what to see and do when we visit.

I hope you all have a wonderful weekend! - Jill

bettyk Jan 25th, 2008 05:24 PM

Aggie, you can't go wrong either way. Hallstatt is a perfect place for a relaxing couple of days and you'll enjoy your outing to Wolfgangsee as well.

TexasAggie Jan 25th, 2008 05:52 PM

Thanks betty!
And ira, I just perused your trip report again as well. Your memory for detail is truly amazing and your wit makes the report such a fun read.

ira Jan 26th, 2008 09:04 AM

Thank you for the kind words, TA

DaveB Jan 26th, 2008 09:52 AM

This is to BettyK, I checkd out your pictures and WOW! Absolutely stunning! May I ask what kind of camera your DH uses? Or is he just an exceptional photographer? Very impressive.

bettyk Jan 26th, 2008 10:00 AM

DaveB, thank you so much for your kind words. DH will be thrilled! He uses a Canon EOS 30D. This is about the 3rd digital camera he's bought in the last several years. He started out with an old Sony Mavica, then went to a Canon Rebel and now the EOS 30D. He's been an avid photographer for the last decade or so. Last year, he attended a National Geographic Photography workshop and now shoots a lot of his photos in a "raw" format. Greek to me!!

But a couple of his albums on webshots have been "featured" which is a big deal considering the talented photogs on that website.

Thanks again!

sunstar Sep 22nd, 2009 06:41 AM

How is the hiking or walking adventures in the Hallstatt or St Wolfgang area? It does sound as though that St Wolfgang might be a better base for hiking or walking activities. I'm so used to taking those walking adventures in Switzerland where everything is laid out so perfectly, where every connecting train or cable is just minutes away, I am just not sure on what base would be the best for those who have walking excursions in mind. Anyway, any ideas on this? I thought about maybe flying into Munich and training into this area, but that seems about 7-8 hour train ride to get into the area from Munich. I prefer trains. I hate driving so trains is my main travel preference. Anyway, any ideas?

sunstar Sep 22nd, 2009 06:43 AM

I just noticed the last post was way back in January 08 so I can forget about getting back any input on this anytime soon. LOL What happened to this forum? Did it dry up?

bettyk Sep 22nd, 2009 08:38 AM

sunstar, we were just in St. Gilgen (near St. Wolfgang) over the weekend. Unfortunately, we aren't hikers so I can tell you which area would be best.

sunstar Sep 22nd, 2009 08:54 AM

Hi Betty, I read some of your other postings. I read where you stayed in the seemingly more peaceful and more quite St Gilgen. I tend to prefer a town that has a little more activity. That brings back those debates we had in the Swiss forums about village people liked. Grindelwald or Wengen? There seems to several things that could pose some time problems for me here. One is that train thing from Munich into this area. I dislike long train rides;however, there does not seem any way around this problem. At least it looks that way to me at this time. I just returned from the Zermatt area also. I had a fabulous trip where the weather was great. So good in fact I got a good suntan from the mountain sun and my shoulder length hair is really good and blond now. You can not beat that. I thought I would try this Hallstatt area after talking with this couple who had just been to Hallstatt area. I met them in Zermatt while I was there and they really enjoyed Hallstatt area. They advised me to fly into Munich area. Anyway, thank you for your response Betty.

swandav2000 Sep 22nd, 2009 09:14 AM

Hi sunstar,

I just spent five nights in St. Gilgen on the St. Wolfgangsee. I spent three days walking & biking -- I wrote up a trip report you can check if you'd like. It's called "Five nights in St. Gilgen."

s

swandav2000 Sep 22nd, 2009 09:16 AM

Sorry, should have said --

Though I stayed in St. Gilgen, most of my hikes started at St. Wolfgang. It's really easy to get to the start of the walk (or from the end) by ferry --

s

sunstar Sep 22nd, 2009 09:22 AM

Swandav2000, good to see you again. Yes I most certainly want to read about your travels in this area. It has been more than 20 years since I was last in Austria and NOT to hike on that trip.

swandav2000 Sep 22nd, 2009 09:32 AM

Hi again!

If you haven't already seen it under the Trip Report section, here it is:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-st-gilgen.cfm

Be happy to help with any questions!

s

sunstar Sep 22nd, 2009 09:39 AM

Yes I found it and found it very interesting. The older I get, the more my trips are becoming less about hiking and more about hanging out. I did a few good hikes my last trip, but actually did more hanging out. The lake excursions and visits to the lake villages just sound wonderful. On rest days, the day after a good hike, I can see my self hanging out. Ty for the link Swandav2000.

joannyc Sep 22nd, 2009 10:06 AM

I loved Hallstatt (2 nights), St. Wolfgang (2 nights), and St. Gilgen (ferry from St. Wolfgang). Beautiful area, could have spent more time there.

bettyk Sep 22nd, 2009 10:27 AM

We have been to Hallstatt a number of times and it is indeed a beautiful area. But it is not exactly "lively".

You can't beat the Salzkammergut area for amazing scenery.

We are still traveling -- right now in Germany -- until next week.

As far as Austria, we spent 3 days in Zell am See and then 3 days in St. Gilgen (our second visit). Zell was also gorgeous with the Grossglockner at it's doorstep. We did a day trip to Kitzbuehl.

Whereever you go in Austria will probably be beautiful.

joannyc Sep 22nd, 2009 10:45 AM

LOL! No, Hallstatt is not exactly "lively"... especially in late September when I was there. The first night, I was the only guest in the hotel, 2 additional rooms were occupied the second night. ;-)

But, it also worked out because I wasn't tripping over daytrippers getting around town. And, I got to park "in town" instead of the lots outside.

I've heard that Zell am See is also beautiful! Just didn't have enough time to get there.


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