St. Cirq. question for you, si'l vous plait.
 

I just read your post about suitcases on TGV. We are taking TGV four times in June, and both my husband's and my bags are 24". Is there any place to put them? We also will have 2 small makeup bag sized bags. What is your advice? We will be in France for 4 weeks. Appreciatively, MAP.

MAP,

TVG's have room above the seats (like on planes only with a little space) for your luggage. You just have to be able to hoist them up (and down).

JoeG

Thank you, Joe. Do you think our 24" bags will fit? Merci.

Map
No problem.
Joe

Hi, MAP.

The overhead bins will undoubtedly accommodate a 24" suitcase, but you'll need to get to the train early to secure that spot above your seat for it, and you'll have to be able to get it up there - no mean feat. You may get lucky and get a TGV with most of the seats configured in groups of two and two facing each other, which allows for some room in the triangular area beneath - but my 22" just barely fit into that space - I don't know about a 24". I do know that I couldn't possibly have managed anything bigger than my suitcase without approaching cardiac arrest, and I'm pretty strong and fit. Once I've been in France for a few days and have collected a bottle of olive oil, a jar of pistou rouge, some vinegar, face cream, a few maps, a new guidebook, etc., the suitcase gets heavy - even a small one - and train travel requires a fair amount of energy and strength.
So my advice is pack as light as you can, and good luck.

Thank you, St.Cirq. I'll have to count on my husband for lifting, but good advice to pack lightly. Also appreciate your earlier tip about Lewis Katz. He did well by us! If you have any other helpful hints about eating in Lyon, Beaune, Amboise, I'm all ears. Sounds like your favorite in Paris, Ponte Vechio, has changed hands and declined in quality. Any comment? Merci. MAP

MAP: I don't know much about Burgundy - I always seem to be passing through with no time to stop, but if you're going to be in Amboise, take a little side trip to Bléré and have lunch or dinner at Le Cheval Blanc, one of my all-time favorites. In Amboise, l'Epicerie and the Lion d'Or are also good.
I don't know the Ponte Vechio - maybe someone else's favorite? I did note that the Bistro de Papa on the Avenue Bosquet had, I thought, declined in recent years. But there are so many other places to eat, it hardly matters.
Good luck with the packing.

I just came across a business card for the first restaurant that I ever dinned at in France and that was about seven years ago. I have a friend who has a Chablis vineyard near Chablis and on my second day in France he took me to a fantastic restaurant in Beaune and I would highly recommend it. The name of the restaurant is Caveau des Arches, it is in the center of town and not far form the Hospices de Beaune. When you enter the restaurant you go down a short flight of stairs then you go through an impresssive thick double glass doors entry and then you are in the "cave" restaurant with arched ceilings and tables set with white linen. I had a a five course meal that was about 128FRF (19.51€ or $23.10 also remember this about 7 years ago). I had escargo, a great salad, duck, a cheese course and raspberry tart for desert. The wine was additional.

This restaurant carried my friends wine and if you are in the area you might try it. Chablis Premier Cru -- Jean-françois BORDET, Propriétaire-Viticulteur.

If you would also like to visit his vineyard and taste his wines, contact Jean-François at 03 86 98 20 36 or 03 86 47 40 45, 8 rue de Mèré, Maligny, Chablis, France. If you do, please tell him that Randy recommended you to stop by. He speaks english, but if anyone else answers, good luck.

I forgot to mention, if you are in the Chablis area, try to visit the church at Vézeley and the Câteau de Vauban that is not from from Vézeley. When we went to the château we got there when they were closed for lunch so we went to a small village near by for lunch first. I will also recommend this place for lunch, it is in a small village where the locals eat and you will get a good feeling for French life. The owner is from Montréal and she speaks english. She also had an excellent personality and made our lunch a very enjoyable event.

Le Tire-Bouchon
(cuisine de Bistrot)
Le Bourg
58190 Bazoches-du-Murvand
03 86 22 11 66
500m du Château de Bazoches

Maybe I got the name wrong, St. Cirq. It is an Italian rest. near Notre Dame. I do remember your recommending Le Cheval Blanc, and I have it in my "must try" list.

Thanks, Randy, for Beaune rec's...we will try to have a meal there. Your friend's winery also sounds intriging.

Just to update on the TGV/luggage issue, we took the TGV from Lyon to Paris and back this weekend and all the luggage racks (at the end of the car and within the car) were accessible. Nothing was closed or taped off.

Hanl, thanks for your update re the luggage rack situation. I'm leaving in 10 days and will be taking the TGV from CDG to Avignon. I've been fretting about having to lift my suitcase up to the rack above the seat! Hope those luggage areas stay open for awhile.

I also took the TGV last week-end and the luggage racks at each end of the cars are sealed off... This is due to the increased alert level (Vigipirate)...
My husband also confirmed this as he frequently travels during the week. But he also said that people were tearing off these plastic seals in order to put their luggage anyway... (very French... LOL)

If you can find a porter at the railway station, you can tip him to put your cases up. If you can put them in the luggage racks at the ends of the carriage, just go and stand near them when the train is at a station to make sure they don't disappear.