Springtime in Paris Trip Report - Day 1
Apr 8th, 2011, 11:06 PM
#23
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Detour from TR: Some general observations about bistros, eating, etc. For a first-timer to Paris, the restaurant and bistro scene can be daunting. There several on almost every corner/block in downtown Paris, especially in Le Marais. How do you distinguish between the tourist trap and authentic places? I read some recommendations in the guidebooks but thought, well, if they're the guidebook they're not likely to be all that great. So I decided to use the Google Machine and search in our neighborhood, find one with good ratings, check it against reviews in TripAdvisor and if possible go to the bistro web site. So I tried that method the other night and had fairly poor results. Went to a place right in Le Marais called Page 35. Great reviews on both Google and TA - I mean almost 4.5 to 5 stars across the board, etc. Written reviews were glowing. But our one nice dinner out without my son turned out less than glowing. The location was very mediocre on a pretty noisy street and the tables were right up against the street, and even though we were inside, the noise level was pretty high. More importantly, though, the food was entirely mediocre. I had a steak with a fairly boring sauce that was surprisingly fatty and stringy. It was served with pommes frites (french fries) which is fairly common here, but were soft, not crunchy. Even the dessert was blase.
Yesterday, conversely, we went for a late lunch to a bistro recommended by Rick Steves near the Pompidou museum which was wonderful - everything he claimed it would be (he was also right about which falafel stand to visit). My wife questioned before dinner whether the online reviews could be trusted - how do you know the restaurants themselves aren't upping the rating with false reviews. I told her that she was speculating wildly, but now I'm not so sure . . .
One other point. We rented a flat with a full kitchen thinking it would be fun to cook some meals. Yeah, not really. First, being out all day starting in the early morning and then not back until later evening, there simply isn't time. Second, by the time we get back, we're pretty much exhausted and I can't imagine then getting the energy to cook a full meal. Yes, this makes things a bit more expensive, but you can save a full euros by eating at the takeaway (to go) food stands, and in our area, there's a falafel stand every 10 feet. Or get a savory crepe from a stand.
For breakfast, we've consistently visiting the local bakeries. You absolutely cannot go wrong and the choices seem endless. Plus, great cafe (espresso) every time.
So my lesson, at least, is that if you trust the guidebooks for good information on the sights to see, why not trust them on the food, too?
Bon apetite!
Yesterday, conversely, we went for a late lunch to a bistro recommended by Rick Steves near the Pompidou museum which was wonderful - everything he claimed it would be (he was also right about which falafel stand to visit). My wife questioned before dinner whether the online reviews could be trusted - how do you know the restaurants themselves aren't upping the rating with false reviews. I told her that she was speculating wildly, but now I'm not so sure . . .
One other point. We rented a flat with a full kitchen thinking it would be fun to cook some meals. Yeah, not really. First, being out all day starting in the early morning and then not back until later evening, there simply isn't time. Second, by the time we get back, we're pretty much exhausted and I can't imagine then getting the energy to cook a full meal. Yes, this makes things a bit more expensive, but you can save a full euros by eating at the takeaway (to go) food stands, and in our area, there's a falafel stand every 10 feet. Or get a savory crepe from a stand.
For breakfast, we've consistently visiting the local bakeries. You absolutely cannot go wrong and the choices seem endless. Plus, great cafe (espresso) every time.
So my lesson, at least, is that if you trust the guidebooks for good information on the sights to see, why not trust them on the food, too?
Bon apetite!
Apr 9th, 2011, 03:56 AM
#24
For restaurant recommendations I am much more likely to trust reviews I read here on this message board than the ones in a general guide book. The books specifically dedicated to restaurants are more useful, and there are several for Paris.
Apr 9th, 2011, 05:27 AM
#26
I tend to consider restaurants that are mentioned frequently by this board as opposed to travel guides. Food is so subjective that its hard to judge unless there have been repeated descriptions/raves about a particular place. There are some posters who's recommendations have pretty much synched with our tastes and so when trip planning I will seek out their recommendations. I will also check out the NYTimes & Washington Post articles which sometimes have some good finds...and sometimes not so much.
Continuing to enjoy your report
Continuing to enjoy your report
Apr 9th, 2011, 05:34 AM
#27
bananslug - you're so right about restaurants being hot or miss. IMHO often it depends on which menu choices you make.
as for cooking in the apartment, I've done it, and not done it. on our trip to Venice, we did quite a lot of cooking - it was so easy to go out shopping in the morning for the evening, or to pick something up on the way home,plus eating out in Venice is very expensive, especially for 4 people including what were then 2 hungry teenagers. OTOH, in Rome last year [where i have found restaurants to be substantially cheaper than in Venice] we just used our kitchen to make tea and squeeze oranges, and ate out every meal including breakfast.
there's no right or wrong to it.
as for cooking in the apartment, I've done it, and not done it. on our trip to Venice, we did quite a lot of cooking - it was so easy to go out shopping in the morning for the evening, or to pick something up on the way home,plus eating out in Venice is very expensive, especially for 4 people including what were then 2 hungry teenagers. OTOH, in Rome last year [where i have found restaurants to be substantially cheaper than in Venice] we just used our kitchen to make tea and squeeze oranges, and ate out every meal including breakfast.
there's no right or wrong to it.
Apr 9th, 2011, 11:24 PM
#28
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Day 5. We sleep in just a wee bit since our son is gone. Our first full day without him, so we decide to visit the Carnavalet Museum, which is the French history museum near Place de Vosges here in Le Marais. It's a free museum, housed in an old mansion, with a confusing array of rooms but a fascinating collection of paintings and artifacts. The order of the rooms is at times difficult to discern and the map is particularly helpful although it's in English. At times we were walking into one gallery only to be shooed out by an official because they were closing the room. Again, Rick Steves nailed it - they close various rooms during from about 11:30-1:30 so the museum employees can cover each other's lunch breaks. Have to say, I've never seen that in a museum. The paintings from Le Revolution were spectacular, but the signage is all in French (duh!) so without our translator (our son) it was a bit hard to follow at times. On the bottom floor was a collection of storefront signs from different periods, some hanging freely from the ceiling and others on the wall. It was actually quite interesting. I'd allow about 2 hours for this tour. After, we sat in the outdoor museum square and were interviewed by some French university students conducting a survey for their class on our opinion on different aspects of the museum. Although they had been in the museum several times, they told they, too, got confused and somewhat lost in there. Made me feel like not quite the idiot.
For lunch, we found a traditional bistro right across the street from the park at Place de Vosges called Ma Bourgogne, and were seated at a table with a nice view to the square. And finally, we had our first "stuffy" French waiter, complete with the white shirt, black vest and bow tie. I'd been waiting all trip for this experience and it was worth the wait. He held his nose in the air and wouldn't even look at us as we ordered. His disdain for American tourists as palpable, dripping off his tailored shirt. Seriously, he was all that, but he was also very efficient and the food was wonderful - really great Bistro food which I would highly recommend. Another great dessert, too. And in the end, he actually spoke with us just a tiny bit, and I saw him smile when he greeted an obvious frequent diner.
Spent the afternoon wondering le 'hood, and then when to St. Chappelle, a glorious church with the most incredible stain glass windows you could ever see. And there's a lot of stained glass in Paris. Still, this church (also free) was nothing short of spectacular.
Came home to rest and then heard a loud truck outside the window droning for quite a while. I went to the window to find the most interesting (repellent?) scene to date. The truck was loaded with sides of beef and had an interior, sliding crane/frame. So it would slide forward to the end of the truck, where two guys in one-piece white plastic suite, complete with a hood, would sling them over their backs to haul them into the kosher butcher shops. My wife, who is mostly vegetarian (baconarian? she can't give up bacon) was even enthralled by the whole process. Pretty cool since we in the State never actually see our steaks until they hit the table. I took several pictures just because it was so cool.
Dinner at the aforementioned, greatly disappointing Page 35. 'Nuf said.
For lunch, we found a traditional bistro right across the street from the park at Place de Vosges called Ma Bourgogne, and were seated at a table with a nice view to the square. And finally, we had our first "stuffy" French waiter, complete with the white shirt, black vest and bow tie. I'd been waiting all trip for this experience and it was worth the wait. He held his nose in the air and wouldn't even look at us as we ordered. His disdain for American tourists as palpable, dripping off his tailored shirt. Seriously, he was all that, but he was also very efficient and the food was wonderful - really great Bistro food which I would highly recommend. Another great dessert, too. And in the end, he actually spoke with us just a tiny bit, and I saw him smile when he greeted an obvious frequent diner.
Spent the afternoon wondering le 'hood, and then when to St. Chappelle, a glorious church with the most incredible stain glass windows you could ever see. And there's a lot of stained glass in Paris. Still, this church (also free) was nothing short of spectacular.
Came home to rest and then heard a loud truck outside the window droning for quite a while. I went to the window to find the most interesting (repellent?) scene to date. The truck was loaded with sides of beef and had an interior, sliding crane/frame. So it would slide forward to the end of the truck, where two guys in one-piece white plastic suite, complete with a hood, would sling them over their backs to haul them into the kosher butcher shops. My wife, who is mostly vegetarian (baconarian? she can't give up bacon) was even enthralled by the whole process. Pretty cool since we in the State never actually see our steaks until they hit the table. I took several pictures just because it was so cool.
Dinner at the aforementioned, greatly disappointing Page 35. 'Nuf said.
Apr 10th, 2011, 01:29 AM
#30
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Another enjoying your report thanks. Apropos the hit and miss eating out recommendation conundrum, last month I dined at Maitre Albert and while the atmosphere was great (and the staff very accommodating to a lone diner) and each course very tasty, the soup was without doubt the shallowest I've had (peasant that I am) and the steak was frankly not as good as the one I had at the nearby branch of the Hippopotamus chain.
Apr 10th, 2011, 02:35 AM
#31
Isn't St. Chapelle amazing? It's one of my favorite places in Paris. Surprised to see that you didn't have to pay. I recall that the times I've been there I actually had to pay a rather hefty sum to get in. I wonder if there's a free area and one you have to pay for or if they've foregone the fee completely in the past few years?
After reading your report, I want to go to the Carnavalet Museum - I went to the Picasso Museum which is right there on my last visit, but missed the Carnavalet.
What a sight the beef truck must have been! You're right; we sure don't see that in the States!
Looking forward to the next installment!
After reading your report, I want to go to the Carnavalet Museum - I went to the Picasso Museum which is right there on my last visit, but missed the Carnavalet.
What a sight the beef truck must have been! You're right; we sure don't see that in the States!
Looking forward to the next installment!
Apr 10th, 2011, 05:37 AM
#33
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As far as I know Sainte-Chapelle is not free. Bananaslug (fun report by the way!) may have meant free with the Paris Museum Pass or happened to luck into a free day. Normally, you must pay.
I came across a list the other day of relics Louis IX bought... the crown of thorns being the most famous and the supposed reason for the construction of Ste Chapelle:
1. - The crown of thorns
2. - A piece of the cross
3. - Blood of Christ
4. - The nappies of the infant Jesus
5. - Another piece of the cross
6. - Blood from a picture of Christ
7. - The chain
8. - Sacred cloth inserted in a picture
9. - Stone from the tomb
10. - Milk of the Virgin Mary
11. - The spear
12. - A victorious cross
13. - The purple mantle
14. - The reed
15. - The sponge
16. - A part of the shroud (sudarii) in which Christ's body was wrapped in the sepulchre
17. - The towel used to dry the Apostles' feet
18. - Moses’ rod
19. - A part of John the Baptist’s head
20. - St. Blas’ head
21. - St. Clement’s head
22. - St. Simeon’s head.
Brings new meaning to 'there's a sucker born every minute'. I wonder who collected the Virgin
milk?
I came across a list the other day of relics Louis IX bought... the crown of thorns being the most famous and the supposed reason for the construction of Ste Chapelle:
1. - The crown of thorns
2. - A piece of the cross
3. - Blood of Christ
4. - The nappies of the infant Jesus
5. - Another piece of the cross
6. - Blood from a picture of Christ
7. - The chain
8. - Sacred cloth inserted in a picture
9. - Stone from the tomb
10. - Milk of the Virgin Mary
11. - The spear
12. - A victorious cross
13. - The purple mantle
14. - The reed
15. - The sponge
16. - A part of the shroud (sudarii) in which Christ's body was wrapped in the sepulchre
17. - The towel used to dry the Apostles' feet
18. - Moses’ rod
19. - A part of John the Baptist’s head
20. - St. Blas’ head
21. - St. Clement’s head
22. - St. Simeon’s head.
Brings new meaning to 'there's a sucker born every minute'. I wonder who collected the Virgin
milk?
Apr 10th, 2011, 07:32 AM
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I have seriously GOT to get to Ste Chapelle this visit. I had every intention of getting there last December and still, it didn't happen. Maybe, I am intentionally not getting there so that I will always have an excuse to go back???!!!!!!!!!! 
Love the waiter story...I remember my first "hater" waiter with great affection.
Love the waiter story...I remember my first "hater" waiter with great affection.
