PJTravels

We are a couple in our late 50's who enjoy hiking and fine dining. We prefer to stay in B&B's or small lodges, and we prefer to spend at least 3 nights per stop when possible. Some of our best stays in our travels have been in great B&Bs off the beaten path.

We are planning a trip in late May, 2012 and want to spend at least 3 weeks, but can add some days as our flights are not yet booked. Our plan at the moment is to fly from San Francisco to Heathrow, allowing some time in London. We will fly into Dublin and out of Shannon.

Given our primary interest in hiking, with history, culture and gardens tossed in please advise on our initial plans. We are also considering taking the train from Dublin to Kilkenny and renting a car from that point on. However, that might make it problematic to hike in Wicklow NP.

Dublin - 3 nights - possible day tour out to Powerscourt

Wicklow NP area - 1 night in order to hike around Glendalough - stay where?

Kilkenny - 2 nights if we drive from Dublin and hike along the way

Kinsale - 2-3 nights

Beara Peninsula - 2-3 nights, possibly staying in Kenmare and using it as a base for the Iveragh Peninsula as well (in which case we would add time). Does this make sense or should we move on to Killarney for the Iveragh Peninsula? Also should we take a night in Portamagee in order to break up the Ring of Kerry drive? If we plan on hiking sections, do we really need to do the entire drive?

Dingle Peninsula - 5 nights - we are considering a town to town tramp by sending our luggage forward. On the other hand, we may stay in one spot, hiking different sections each day.

The Burren - 3-4 nights - taking some guided walks, probably staying in Ballyvaughn, seeing Cliffs of Kilkee on the drive up, taking in the Cliffs of Moher. Should we break up the trip from Dingle to Ballyvaughn with an overnight somewhere?

We're considering adding a day trip to Inishmore.

Many thanks!

JOHNOD

On the Mizen Peninsula is a B&B, Herons Cove. It is out of the way on a small tidal cove and is also a wonderful fine dining restaurant. The peninsula has wonderful hiking trails and is also short jump to the beara and Sheepshead. The rooms have balconies and the restaurant overlook the small cove. Killarney is fine but its a large busy town. If you do stay there you can hike the Gap of Dunloe and take the boat trip through the lake of Killarney at the end. Three nights would be a lot in Ballyaughn. Portamagee is nice for one night, take a ride over the bridge to Valencia Island for a nice drive or you might try Waterford. If you want to visit Inishmore and break up the drive between Dingle and Ballyvaughn I guess the logical choice would be Doolin, not my favorite but for one night to catch the ferry would be OK. Your luck to have so much time. Have fun

irishface

John has some good ideas. I think, however, that he means Waterville, not Waterford, when he writes about the area near Portmagee.

There are not a lot of choices near Glendalough for an overnight, but don't give it up as it is a beautiful, quiet, mysterious place. One of my favorites.

Personally I think Kinsale is overrated and two nights would be a bit much. However, it seems to be popular so I must be misssing something. I would add that time to the Beara Peninsula or The Mizen Peninsula (the place John has recommended.

While in that area or on your way to Kenmare/Killarney check out Garinish Island--Wonderful gardens of Ilnacullin and plenty of hiking. You take a little putt-putt boat from the town of Glengarrif. If the tide is right, there will be seals basking on the rocks in the bay.

On the Dingle Peninsula, bus service is a bit spotty so check service schedules carefully before setting out or plan a circle hike back to your spot. If you have five days there, and there is one with the promise of good weather, take a trip to the Great Blasket Island. You have to pack your own lunch and waterbottle as it is uninhabited. I think during the summer there is a hostel open, but even then you need to bring your own supplies. The story of the Blasket Islanders is fascinating (visit the Blasket center at Dunquin, a village with a pub and a few houses and read the haunting story) There is plenty of space to hike. Don't lose track of time however; if you miss the last boat back, it will be night in the open.

On Dingle, I would just drive to a hiking spot and return to your car after a circular hike.

These are just a few of my thoughts, but I am sure others will chime in with some good ideas as well.

Amy40

We did a similar loop last year, though in less time as we were on a school holiday and only had 10 days. I can't help but think you are making a big mistake in missing Connemara. We were only there for a day and it felt more magical than everything else. Especially if you are hikers, I think you should try to get there.

I spent three nights in Dingle and the weather was lousy the whole time. Someone on the beach called it "soft." I though it was downright foggy and somewhat dreary! But lovely in its own way...nevertheless, you could cut a day to add to Connemara. The Burren could be done in two nights, IMO. And we got from Galway to Dingle without subjecting ourselves to Doolin.

Trust in the fact that whatever you do it will be great. And you will want to go back! So, there is always next time...

JOHNOD

Thank Yopu Irishface, I did mean Waterville.

SeeDee

For your night in County Wicklow, check out the Brooklodge Hotel; it's in a fairly remote location so a car is required but it has a good reputation for food.
www.brooklodge.com

longhorn55

We are a mid-50's couple who, last May, did a hiking-centric tour of some of areas you plan to visit. Here are just a few ideas you might find helpful:

1. We split our time (4 days) on the Iveragh Peninsula between Kenmare and Ballinskellig, near Portmagee. We hiked Gap of Dunloe and Muckross Lake and toured Beara Peninsula from our base in Kenmare. We stayed at the Abbey Court B&B which I can highly recommend. From our base in Ballinskellig (Beachcove B&B--also recommended), we hiked at Derrynane N.P. and did a couple easy walks on Valentia Island and at the Cahirciveen ring forts.

2. I don't see any real need to stop between Dingle and Ballyvaghan. The driving time is 4 hours or less and with stops at Kilkee (which we really enjoyed) and the Cliffs of Moher, you'll easily make it to Ballyvaghan well before dark in late May. I definitely would not spend a night in Doolin as we did--it was dreary.

3. We did a lot of hiking in County Clare and found the following website to be quite useful in choosing our hikes. The Caher Valley Loop, which is described on this site, was one of our favorite hikes--great Burren scenery.
http://www.shannonregiontrails.ie/

4. I would definitely recommend doing a trip to Inishmore. We actually did an overnight trip which I would recommend over a day trip if you have the time. We took the Aran Island Ferry out of Rossaveel as opposed to the ferry from Doolin as we definitely wanted to make the trip. (I had read that the ferries out of Doolin, being more weather-dependent that the larger ferries from Rossaveel, sometimes were not able to make the trip, even in May.) If you go to Inishmore, be sure to rent a bike to tour the island. There are several bike rental shops near the dock, including one next to the Tourist Information Office where we got a good biking map and some quite helpful information.

Tomsd

I stayed at a lovely B & B (Cill Bhreach House) just outside of Dingle town with a great view of the bay, and our hostess Angela cooked gourmet breakfasts and gave marvelous tips on what to do.
see: http://www.cillbhreachouse.com/

Drove the Ring of Kerry and would like to go back there as well as Baerra (sp) - but Dingle will still probably remain my fvorite.

The Cathedralin Killarney is also amazing, and heard some great stories just driving around - listening to the Irish radio stations -who are funny as can be.

Tomsd

And to break up your trip from Dingle north, the cute/traditional villge of Adare - just south of Limerick - might be worth a stop for a cup of coffee or some Irish faire.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adare

PJTravels

Fabulous, informative info! Thanks so much to each of you. I will spend the next few days re-researching and wiggling the itinerary around.

jaja

If I may still weigh in....check out Gleninchaquin Park if you want some hiking.... http://gleninchaquin.com . Turn at the sign on the coast road near Laraugh and then don't panic if you seem to be on the road to nowhere...you'll be rewarded eventually by the sight of the waterfall. Don't miss the water gardens.

Tomsd

Don't know if anyone mentioned Kinsald - south of Cork - which is reportedly the Seafood Epicurian capital of Ireland, and Dingle has some very good restaurants also.

Tomsd

Actually - somebody did mention Kinsale - and it can get a bit busy - but loved it for my walk around - and would defiitely go back there to try some of their well regarded faire. http://kinsale.ie/

Tomsd

BTW - I took the train from Dublin to Limerick - and stayed at a nice Jury's Inn - overlooking the lovely Shannon River - and had a nice walk/dinner at a lively pub in Limerick. Next am - caught a local bus to Shannon Airport and rented a car there - and up to the Cliffs of Moher, and by the Burren (wasn't blooming in March) and down through the lovely village of Adare and one to Dingle, and drove all around there and the Ring of Kerry - and another day - to Cork/Kinsale. Between Cork and Kinsale - there is a famous 16th century battleground site - where the Irish gave the British a good go - but the British had too much artillery.

Again, there were some very good restaurants in Dingle town. Top of the line.

Padraig

Tomsd wrote: "... the cute/traditional villge of Adare ..."
Cute, yes; traditional no - at least, not in the Irish tradition. It's an early example of theme park architecture.

Tomsd

LOL Pdraig: On my drive through - I didn't get under the surface, eh?

Tomsd

And Pdraig: Wished I had more time to stop and walk the battle areas I drove through on the way to Kinsale.

see: http://www.yourirish.com/battle-of-kinsale

Krista_M

I've done 2 10 day trips to Ireland before (with different groups). My boyfriend, my parents and myself are going for 10 days in May this year. Having been before and no one else has, I made a point of planning a trip to highlight some of the best of Ireland. We choose to skip Dublin as it's a big city and is almost worthy of it's own trip.

Flying into Shannon.
2 nights Doolin: See Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, Aran Islands
1 night Cashel
2 nights Waterford
4 nights Killarney: Ring of Kerry, Blarney, Cork
1 night Bunratty


I've been to Kilkenny before and it was ok, defintiely not worth 2 days there. I would really add Waterford in there. Not only can you see the crystal factory which is amazing, but Waterford was also the oldest town in Ireland.

PJTravels

Thanks, Krista. I have been considering more of the southeast so your input is helpful. I'm looking at 2 nights in Kilkenny due to wanting to spend more than just a few hours at Glendalough. If we cruise into Kilkenny late, we'll want a non-travel day or possibly a short drive to Rock of Cashel which means two nights there or nearby.

I'm reworking itinerary now and will post the second draft soon.

Krista_M

Yeah, in my trying to decide how to get all the highlights of Ireland, I decided that doing the southern half of the country was the only way.

I would definitely say include Waterford. I went to the crystal factory the last time I went and really was disappointed I didn't get to see more of the town itself.

I looked at a lot of the guided tours around Ireland and used those for the basis for the last 2 trips. There's so much to see and do. Have you considered flying into Shannon and making your way to Dublin (or vise versa)? It might be a better option if you want to see both coasts.

Here are a few discount links for you:

http://www.heritageisland.com/about-...ide-discounts/

http://www.shortbreaksireland.ie/

http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/Inf...ards/#d.en.974