Split and Dubrovnik (and Ljubljana)
 

These forums are both useful and enjoyable to read. There is so much good advice here, so I wanted to share our planned trip next April-May and pose a couple of questions.

Overview:
We (wonderful wife and I) enjoy spending a week or so in a town - apartment, grocery shopping, see attractions, hanging in plazas - getting a feel for life in that town. To complement that, we also enjoy day trips to nearby towns/attractions. We enjoy a lot of walking and are very comfortable using public transportation, and we don't like to rent a car.

Basic Plan:
Fly into Ljubljana; spend 8 nights
train to Zagreb; fly to Dubrovnik; spend 4-8 nights
bus to Split; spend 4-8 nights
fly home from Split

I'm comfortable with our plans for Ljubljana (hanging out in town; day trips to Bled, Idrija, Škofja Loka, tour to Istria, etc.

I'm in a quandary about how to split (pun intended) our time between Split and Dubrovnik...
We'd prefer an apartment near the old town areas (between Marjan Hill and palace in Split) and (between Ploce or Pile and old town in Dubrovnik)

? any thoughts on those or other areas in those two towns (Split or Dubrovnik) for a quiet stay ?

? which of those two towns might be better to spend the bulk of our time ?

? how much time (days) might be needed to see each town at a relaxed pace ?

? both towns seem to have a number and variety of good day trips, but there seems to be more from Split than from Dubrovnik - is that correct ?

? does Split have the crowd issues (cruise ships) that is associated with Dubrovnik ?

Split potential day trips: Sibenik, Trogir, Solin, Omis, Hvar, Brack, Krka, Pucisca
Dubrovnik potential day trips: Lokrum, Korkula, Mostar, tour to Montenegro (Risan, Kotor, Budva)

? what might be your favorite day trip from either of those two towns ?

Thank you
With regards
--Bruce

I like the idea of staying longer in one place, but I think you should carefully scope out the travel time (and aggravation level) of all the day trips you are interested in taking. For example, From Dubrovnik to Korcula is 4 hours on a bus, not sure of the catamaran time/schedule (I'll paste some links for boat trips below). An easy way to avoid this is to stop over in Korcula en route from Dubrovnik to Split--moving linearly and perhaps doing shorter stays than you might otherwise prefer. Because of the bus schedule, you will probably have to do private tours to Kotor and Mostar. Lokrum is just a couple hours. Without a car, the only other day trip option from Dubrovnik is the Elafiti islands.
Split is much more of a transport hub with more day trip options, but it is still nice to stay overnight on an islands and explore a couple days at least. Hope that helps!

http://www.jadrolinija.hr/ (ferries and catamarans)
http://www.krilo.hr/en/ (catamarans)
http://www.gv-line.hr/raspored.php?linija=3&lang=E (catamarans)

Bus is for the most part an excellent way to get from place to place, but not always for day trips.

From Split, Krka NP, Trogir and one of the islands are the "must-do" day trips IMO. I do agree with yorkshire that you should add a few nights on one of the islands, especially since the ferries will be running on a very limited schedule during your stay and day trips to the islands may end up being quite difficult.

By the way, I love that you're going to Idrija while in Ljubljana, it's so off the beaten path for foreign tourists, yet with so much to offer for its size.

Also, a general note on your itinerary: since you're going in the spring, consider visiting Dalmatia first and going to Slovenia last to increase your chances of warm sunny weather in the north.

For a quirky, but wonderfully located place in Dubrovnik just outside the Ploce gate and with stunning views over the harbor from its own terrace
http://www.villa-adriatica.net

As for Split and Dubrovnik, your call based on your interests! I’d go for Split, not only for all it offers (I love Split!), but also because of the options for side trips – those you mention, and also Zadar and especially the Plitvice Lakes National Park – although I must admit that I’d opt for an overnight there so you make sure to have 6 full hours (or more) during the daylight for your walk through the park. Your pick of some great choices!

If it matters, note that I would strongly recommend an overnight in Mostar, not just a day-trip there. It is far more magical in the evening after day trippers leave! And I’d recommend a night in Korcula, too – as yorkshire notes, seeing it would make for a VERY long day trip, and visiting it en route is an excellent option!

I also like rtt’s suggestion to route south to north, given the time of year you plan to visit.

One think you might consider: take a bit of your time from Ljubljana to add to Split, shift a night from Dubrovnik to Korcula or Mostar (or both), visiting at least one en route, and also spend a night in the the Plitvice Lakes between Split and Slovenia. Or an even more radical option: Defer Dubrovnik and surroundings until you can give the area more time. (I suggest deferring Dubrovnik just because it is further from Slovenia than Split.)

You won't be able to see everything you mention, but you should be able to see some wonderful things.

Hope that helps!

this has been quite helpful.
I like the idea of reversing the itinerary to end up in Slovenia, and we'll have to really consider the overnight day trip suggestions.
thanks