Spending a few days in Paris need advice
 

I just became a member and thought I'd ask for suggestions. My wife and I will be traveling to London/Paris Oct 7/06. We are new to traveling to Europe but want to do more now that our kids are out of the house. Last year we spent a week in London and took a 1 day side trip to Paris. We had such a great time that this year we thought we'd spend 3 days in London followed by 6 nights in Paris. We really need ideas of where to eat on a budget--maybe one or two nice dinners but other than that some less expensive options for breakfast and lunch. We'll be staying near the Arc de Triomphe on a side street from the Champs Elysee. Although we haven't given a lot of thought to what we'll do with our time, we do want to take a trip to the Loire Valley one day. My wife likes to shop,go,go,go and can't waste a minute. I like to eat and see the sights. She's a chocoholic, I'm not. But we both like croissants. So, we'll have to compromise. This is our 25th anniversity present to ourselves. Comments appreciated.
thanks.

You can easily take care of breakfast and lunch using bakeries, crepe stands, to-go picnics if the weather is clear. For dinner 'ethnic' places are often casual and a good value (greek, italian, etc.).

As you spent only 1 day in Paris, you may not have noticed that all restaurants/bistros have the menu posted at the sidewalk...including prices. As you walk around, you'll be able to pick out less expensive places. Try cafes away from major sites/intersections.

Random thoughts:
---Yes, sidewalk crepe stands are great (especially the one at St. Germain metro).
---Do you like steamed clams? Look for "moules et frites" (clams & fries). Almost always good and inexpensive.
---If I remember correctly, at cafes you pay less inside than outside at the sidewalk tables (for drinks).
---In Paris, the tip is always included in your bill.
--- I may be wrong, but I believe restaurants may be more expensive in the area around the Arc/Champs Elysee. Maybe others can clarify, but note menu prices as you're walking around the city.
---Lastly, if an establishment has silverware/tablecloths on the sidewalk tables, don't stop there for just a snack or coffee. They expect one to order a meal.

A guide book that I use and like for eating in Paris is Sandra Gustafson's Great Eats in Paris. This is actually the second time I recommended in the last 15 minutes. It has fairly exact prices and tell you what to expect. Also broken down by neighborhoods, which is nice.

Your trip sounds great; I hope you have a wonderful time. And I am one who thinks it's nice to have the kids out of the house. ;-)

Moules are mussels, not clams.

A tiny correction - moules are mussels, not clams. Big difference (I don't like mussels, but adore clams).

For decent meals - if you like mussels, Leon's of Brussels are all over Paris and open very late. The rest of their stuff is so so, but DH loves their moules.

joram, be sure to buy some guidebooks before you go. Fodor's, Frommers, Rick Steves (if you are one of his fans), Great Eats in Paris as previouly recommended.

If you like pizza, and they also have great salads, go to Pino's Pizza on the Champs Elysee for a good, not great, but enjoyable smoke free meal. Reasonably priced. DH has to have his Pino's fix on every trip and I love their huge salads, tuna etc...

Their smoked salmon pizza with creme fraise is very good.

Other than Pino's, I would stay away from restaurants in that area, unless specifically recommended. Most are either not that good, or expensive.

Please do yourself a favor and buy travel guides and be sure take them with you :-))

You'll have six wonderful days to get to know Paris.

Enjoy,

Nina

There is also a book called "Cheap Eats in paris". Paris is far less expensive than London, so I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. As was said, do look at and use the menus. They are almost always the less expensive way to go.
Have fun.

Mussels! #-O
Like Nina, I too wish there were "clam joints" all over Paris!

I'm also glad she mentioned pizza. There are pizzarias all over Paris and we've found they have good pizza and usually excellent salads.

You can go to your nicer restaurants at lunch, and eat off the fixed price menu without breaking the bank (often, half as much as eating similar fare a la carte).

It isn't Cheap Eats anymore, it is now called Great Eats...

We had fun eating in the Latin Quarter. We had bad Italian/Pizza, but really good falafel at another place, and had the best crepes there as well. Prices are reasonable here, but beware of pushy barkers trying to pull you in to their place, unless it looks good to you. There was some really great-looking paella being made in the window of one place, and another had delicious-sounding fondues and raclettes.

Our room included breakfast, which saves a lot of time as well as money. Bakeries are always great, as are do-it-yourself picnics supplied by your local markets. There was what I would call a convenience store near us that had wonderful cheeses and fresh fruits and vegetables, beverages, and anything else you might want at decent prices. If you drink like an American, it will cost you in cafes. Water can cost as much as wine, and don't expect a lot. Refills? What's that? We bought supplementary beverages at markets to hydrate before or after our meals. Have fun!

Note that bakeries have things other than the bready and the sweet stuff (not that there is anything wrong with those...) - most sell handy-sized quiches for about 2,50 to 3,50 Euros - delicious, and many also have delicious sandwiches. And there are panini stands everywhere - 3 to 4 Euros usually, quite substantial.

Look for Greek/Turkish/Lebanese-style kebab places, take-out or eat-in (Formica style), with shashlik and other goodies - 5 to 7 Euros and you had a filling meal.

Are you aware of the pricing hierarchy in cafés and brasseries and such? Standing up inside at the counter is cheapest, sitting down inside costs more, sitting down outside costs a lot more, and don't order in one place and then go sit down - the waiter whose territory you're invading "on the sly" will give you a language lesson...

Also don't expect free refills on anything, or coffee alongside your meal, or coffee in US-sized mugs (except at the hotel for breakfast, the milk coffee = café au lait), and don't expect ice in your drinks (you may get it if you ask for it, or not, it is not customary among the French). Just so you won't be disappointed by silly little things...

And always greet staff with eye contact on entering a shop or restaurant even if you just want to look around and don't expect to be waited on, and say au revoir on the way out - it is most basic courtesy and it's important. Also greet "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir" before asking for something, it makes that crucial difference.

If the hotel breakfast costs a bunch extra, go out and buy one of those little quiches, on big intersections there is a boulangerie (bakery) at every corner, and get a café au lait at the counter of the nearest brasserie - say "un café au lait - grande tasse s.v.p." and the total may come to 5 or 6 Euros.

One more:
If you have to have a soft-drink fix, go to a supermarket. We learned this lesson when we were charged more than 16 euros for 2 cokes at a cafe near the Louvre.

Do the <i>passages</i>. You can admire the 19th century architecture and your wife can browse and shop. There are also some caf&eacute;s and a tea shop with all sorts of house made sweets in one of them.

As someone mentioned, supermarkets are great to pick up bottled water and also alcoholic beverages. My DH likes a cognac or Grand Marinier nightcap and either of this are costly at a cafe or bar. In a small neighborhood grocer a bottle of Grand Marinier is about E14 and lasts the week. All restaurants are required to offer a prix fixe option (sometimes referred to as la menu or la plat) and the &quot;carte&quot; must be posted outside so you can decide if it's within your budget. For food guides, I like Eyewitness and Zagat. There are some good, recent threads here with specific recommendations if you search for &quot;Paris restaurants&quot;. Have a great time celebrating your 25th!

I didn't expect such a response and really appreaciate everyone's input. What about the weather? I hadn't given it much thought before. Last year, we had perfect weather in London around 72--except for one rainy afternoon, everything was perfect. I read a comment about Luree (I don't know if I spelled it correctly) being a very good choice for breakfast and thought it might also give my wife her chocolate fix. Does anyone know where it is?

If you get the quiche at the boulangerie, they will be happy to heat it up for you. 'Chauffer, s'il vous plait' (heat please), pronounced 'show-fay, seel voo play' will get your point across (although not perfect French, at least it's the easiest way) You can also get a ham and cheese croissant at many boulangeries, to be heated of course.

Mid October is very variable as far as weather. It was cold &amp; rainy when we went, but there were some mild sunny days, too.

I would plan on light winter clothes in layers. Two pairs of waterproof shoes/boots at a minimum. Gloves and a warm scarf are nice if the wind is blowing. They're easy to pack, tho you may not need them.

Go to Angelina's for hot chocolate (Rue Rivoli, across from the Tuilieries) - actually, I believe it is chocolate africain - perhaps someone can correct me. In any event, it is a bit expensive, but if your wife loves chocolate, you must try this. Unlike anything I've ever had before.

Along the &quot;other things bakeries have&quot; line, I had an amazing chicken salad sandwich on whole wheat bread from one place. They offered the sandwiches in various sizes/prices.

I enjoy the simple &quot;jambon et fromage&quot; sandwiches on a piece of baguette that bakeries sell around lunchtime. I know I didn't spend 5'es on the sandwich including a drink (I think an Orangina). I remember I ate it on a park bench down on the little island at the far west of the Iles...watched the boats, fed a ungodly huge pigeon. I aas a very happy lady.

Is Angelina's open? Last time I was there they were closed for a remodel. In any event the hot chocolate was divine.

Hi J

It's Laduree.

You can look them up at www.pagesjaunes.fr

&gt;We'll be staying near the Arc de Triomphe on a side street from the Champs Elysee.&lt;

Are you sure you want to stay there?

What's your hotel budget?

((I))

&quot;read a comment about Luree (I don't know if I spelled it correctly) being a very good choice for breakfast and thought it might also give my wife her chocolate fix. Does anyone know where it is?&quot;

I think what you're referring to is &quot;Laduree&quot; and it is, indeed, a fabulous patisserie! There is one the corner of Rue Jacob and Rue Bonaparte and there's also one off Rue de Rivoli on one of the streets going north. You can &quot;google&quot; and find an address. They have the most wonderful macarons (not like our coconut macaroons) and the selection of other patisserie is fabulous! I also second Angelina's &quot;chocolat chaud&quot; (hot chocolate) which is over the top divine! Your wife would certainly get her chocolate fix!

My suggestion to you for your six days would be to spend some time at Barnes &amp; Noble or Border's, read everything you have time to read on Paris, decide what your priorities are to see, and just walk walk walk and stop often at various cafes!

I was in Paris in October 2002 and the weather was wonderful. Mornings started out as cool (light jacket) and warmed up as the day progressed. Take a small umbrella as you never know when showers may occur.

The Batobus was a fun way to get from place to place. It goes from the Eiffel Tower east to the Jardin du Plantes and is a hop on/hop off water taxi. You can buy various tickets that allow transportation for different numbers of days. It's a fun relaxing way to get from place to place and you are on the water so you can see all of Paris's beauty rather than being underground in the Metro (I'm not a fan of the Metro as I've always been intimidated - however, others wouldn't travel any other way).

Enjoy!!

Joy/Luvparee

&lt;&lt;Is Angelina's open?&gt;&gt;

Yes, it is and the hot chocolate IS divine!

Welcome to this wonderful information highway joram!

Here's my 2 euros worth:

Get yourself a good guide book - personally I like The EyeWitness Guide To Paris.

There are some really good trip reports on the city but I'm not too sure how you access them unless you know the persons 'name'. I wrote one last year on my two weeks stint and so did ira.
Degas has some excellent walks programmed so maybe you could start here by clicking on the 'name' of a person. Robespierre has all the best information on transport.

I stayed in rue de Bassano off the Champs and loved it! Those wide sidewalks are just the thing to stroll after dinner or just sit at a cafe and people watch.

Keep the questions coming - I'm sure loads of people will try to help.

Many can't stand Rick Steve's tour books but the parts I like are the walking tours outlined in his Paris book. Pst.... you can print lots of info from his book from his website.

I think it's hard for a guidebook to be current on restaurant recs. Many regulars on this board are more current on where to eat and where to skip.

Type keywords like &quot;dining in Paris&quot;, &quot;restaurants in Paris&quot;' &quot;casual dining Paris&quot;, you get the idea in the search box above.

Also, go to tripadvisor and type in Paris then read hotel and restaurant reviews for a fair amount of information.

Don't forget to click &quot;destinations&quot; above to get lots of info on Paris.


My 14 yr old and I lived on cheap food- crepes, paninis, pizza, ethnic food- for a week and loved it all.

BTW, another hint you hear often is to skip the restaurants that post their menu in English. That says &quot;tourist trap&quot; to many...

I second shopping in the 19th century passages more for their historical appeal than for the shops. Google Paris

oops.... google Paris passages to locate them and get a description. Some have been renovated more recently.

You can't beat a trip to Galeries Lafayette for a head swimming shopping expedition.

joram - this Paris Superthread posted by 111op should give you all you need to know:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34519182

Very good information. Has anyone gone on a one-day side tour to the Loire Valley? We prepaid our vacation several months ago thru Expedia. I'm sure if I had known better, I would have been able to save money but, in any case, I have the air and hotels paid for. I haven't made any reservations for dinner (is that necessary?) or any tours. Keep the comments coming. thanks again.

Here is a day excursion to several Loire chateaux
http://tinyurl.com/ogvpb

Also do searches here on Fodor's for Amboise and/or Blois. You'll find many threads about day trips to the Loire.

Personally, I wouldn't take a day out of Paris to go to the Loire. You only have 5 full days there, right? You won't believe how fast it will fly by...you'll wish you had another week!

At Angelina's order a Mont Blanc to go with your hot chocolat (yummy!)