emnyc

Thanks for sharing your experience re travel time from Spoleto. That is helpful. We went to Assisi in 2006, and I am glad we did, but we also feel okay not doing it this time. We really only have three full days, so you are right, we won't be able to do everything. That is one reason why we are returning to an area we have already visited and liked very much before, to feel less pressure to check must sees off our list (e.g., Assisi). After Umbria, back for one night in Rome (we will have had a few days in Rome prior to Umbria) and then home.

Jean

No, don't repeat anything unless you can't resist. I think stopping in Orvieto on the way from Rome would be a great idea.

If you get to Bevagna, stop at the Tourist Office first thing. When we visited, a couple of sights in the town were not generally open, but the TO personnel told us to return at a particular time and then took us and a few others to see the excavated Roman baths (beautiful mosaic floor) and the lovely opera house (a jewel box). Perhaps these places now have regular open/closed hours, but it would be worth checking when you arrive.

If you go to Todi, there is a parking lot on the western side of the town and a funicular from there up to the historical center. (If you were coming from Orvieto, you'd be coming from the west.) We had a memorable lunch at Ristorante Umbria in town. The food was good, but the views from our table on the terrace were spectacular.

http://www.ristoranteumbria.it/en/

In Gubbio, we had a very nice lunch at Picchio Verde. It's popular with locals.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ia_Umbria.html

Flame123

When we were in Umbria many years ago, I chose to stay in Bevagna which is a small FLAT little village and at the Palazzo Brunamonti hotel, a small family-run beautiful spot. We chose Bevagna BECAUSE it was flat, having read that all or most of the hill towns there are ............... HILLY, and we wanted to be on flat ground when we returned from our day's adventures and while walking around for dinner, etc. I highly recommend the town and the hotel. It was most convenient for visiting all the towns we wanted, save for Gubbio which was a bit further away. If you click my screen name you will find my trip report of the area with further details.

sandralist

Just to give you some perspective:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tefalco-or.cfm

For what it is worth, the economic crisis of the past 5 years has had a visible impact in many places.

TDudette

I didn't know about Spoleto getting elevators. Perugia has them but there are still stairs to climb. I'm topping my Perugia TR.

If you only have 4 days, why not just stay in Orvieto?

sandralist

Yes, things do change in these places! In that other link that I put up maybe I should have noted in my post that the thread dates back to 2007 -- and it was apparent in that thread that several people posting hadn't traveled to the places they were recommending in years, so who knows how old some people's memories are.

I was in Perugia before the pre-2008 crsis, and when I revisited a year ago, I was taken aback by how many restaurants and shops had gone out of business, or relocated out of the cener, had been sold to other people and were no longer up to their previous standard. So where possible, try to get some current info.

TDudette

Also, for those of us who write TRs after one visit, circumspection about generalizations is in order.

I'm always grateful for current info and/or from folks like sandralist who actually live in Italy.

emnyc, have you made a decision?

emnyc

Thanks for all the continued tips and info. I have a reservation in Spello that I can cancel without penalty, so I have made a tentative initial decision, but am still engaging in a bit of mulling.

emnyc

So, we stayed in Spello, and it was well-located for our needs, and we ate well there, and had a room with lovely views at the Palazzo Bocci. But what we didn't know and I wish we had--Spello is in the midst of major public works with the main street through town torn up and impassible and a lot of construction noise during the day as a result and various shops and restaurants closed. I don't know how long the work is scheduled to continue, but good to inquire with your hotel if you are planning to stay there this fall, as it did compromise the town's charm I am afraid. That being said it was still a wonderful visit. But we probably would have chosen differently if we had realized the construction would be going on. Oh well! We still enjoyed Spello, and had lovely excursions to Spoleto, Gubbio, Perugia, Trevi, Bevagna, and Montefalco as well. I actually ended the trip thinking that if/when I return to Umbria, I might choose Montefalco as a base....

indyhiker

Oh dear. I'm sorry to hear that. They we doing a bit of work near the top of the town, but it didn't strike me as overly extensive when we were there in May. We're set to go back in May. I guess we'll find out!!!

Dayle

emnyc,

I'm sorry to hear construction detracted from your enjoyment of Spello. Your post is a good reminder to everyone to ask about construction or hotel renovations when booking! In just the last year, I've booked into 2 hotels (US) that were under major renovation without so much as a mention from the hotel desk at time of booking.

This will become one of my basic questions going forward!

Did you visit the wonderful small museum in the old church in Montefalco? How did you like the Sagrantino? I thought both were just great!

HappyTrvlr

Spello is better located for exploring than Spoleto. Plus Spoleto has a lot of less than attractive area surrounding it with traffic congestion.yes, Spello had construction but they do work very quickly.
You can see Asissi from Spello, very close. Roman remnants.
We found a good choice of restaurants including Porta Venere and Osteria de Buchetto. It is a real town not existing for tourism alone.
Be prepared to climb!

indyhiker

I just emailed an English couple we met in May that owns a second home in Spello to see if they know the timeline for the work. I'll report back if I hear from them.

ashley_zanchetta2

EMNYC, I am currently in the same boat and I am trying to decide between Spell and Montefalco! We have the same criteria as you did... why would you have chosen Montefalco if you had to redo it? Other then the construction in Spello?