JenniferW

When I initially started planning this trip we had every intention of going to Greece. Then it turned into a trip to Greece with a stopover in Italy. Then somehow it just turned into another Italy trip, we simply could not resist going back to Italy again.

We went to Rome the last week of April and to Positano the first week of May. This time we met my brother-in-law for a week in Rome so that was fun. (I will post in installments....please feel free to ask questions).

We arrived in Rome at 8:40am and we used limoservicerome again to pick us up. We stayed at Hotel Due Torri again and we got a room right next to my brother-in-law.

My notes for Rome are really not as detailed as Positano mainly because we were really on the go a lot in Rome. My brother-in-law had never been so we tried to make sure he saw all of the main sights.

After arriving we headed over to the Pantheon and ate breakfast at one of the cafes and people watched. It was so beautiful to be in Rome again!

Then we walked around to familiarize ourselves with old restaurants. Then went back to the hotel to nap during a storm. Afterwards we went to 58 Via Dell Anima (the name changed, it used to be called Pancotta Pizzeria).

I had dreamed about the Pasta Fagioli that I had at this place last year (it was the best!) but since it changed owners....the menu changed too. Oh well....we still had a good time hanging out there drinking wine and eating a huge caprese salad.

After we walked around and then went to dinner at Il Bacaro. We had a great bottle of prosecco called Ca'del Bosco. All in all a good meal but I would not recommend ordering the steak covered in pate....it was not appetizing. But the cheese/spinach risotto was really good.

Next day we headed over to Via Del Corso. I must say the weather was very different from last year....it was quite cold. I actually had to buy a jacket since it was so chilly....dressing in layers just wasn't cutting it.

I went bag to Furla and got a cute bag. We walked up the Spanish Steps and had sandwiches at the Trevi fountain. Then went back to the room for a nap.

We went to dinner at La Volte. The appetizers were really good...proscuitto & melon, carpacci & fried eggplant. But dinner was a disappointment for all 3 of us. But afterward we went to the Pantheon for gelato.

The next morning was our Scala Reale tour of the Forum & Colloseum....I really was looking forward to it. I was so impressed with the Arte Vaticana tour we took with them last year.

We show up early for the 9:00am tour. But there is one gentleman that has not showed up yet. Our tour guide Sara wanted to wait to see if he showed up. So we wait...and wait. It is now 9:30am so we decide to start the tour.

About 5 minutes into the tour Sara has to stop the tour and run back to the front gate where we all met because apparently this guy finally showed up.

There was only one other couple in the group so we got to know them as we waited yet again. Sara comes back without Mr. Annoying Guy (that is the name I gave him).

Ok so we proceed with the tour...time goes by and this guy comes up to us saying "Oh, I finally made it!". So he joins us and the tour takes a complete turn. He questions Sara, corrects Sara....quite the know it all. Basically the tour stopped there because Mr. Annoying Guy was monopolizing Sara.

Unfortunately Sara never took control of the tour so we did not really learn as much as we had hoped. It was disappointing....but I did find out that Sara was new. Scala Reale contacted me for feedback which I gave and they were gracious enough to give us a discount. I definitely would take another Scala Reale tour again.

JenniferW

Rome cont.

After the Scala Reale tour we had lunch at a really out of the way neighborhood (so out of the way that they didn't even have a sign outside so I can't tell you the name).

But it was not far from the Colloseum (Sara had recommended it) and it was really good. Then we walked all over....had gelato and just wandered.

That night we had dinner reservations at Myosotis (Via della Vaccarella 3/5) in the Piazza Navona area. Everything was soooo good! I had the best pasta Carbonara, very good steak, very good proscuitto & ham. And the service was great...very friendly and warm. We all loved our meals.

The next morning we headed over to St. Peters's, Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. Last year I took the Scala Reale tour of this area with John and it was spectacular. It was nice to see it again though.

After we headed to La Montecarlo (Vicolo Savelli 12, Piazza Navona). This place has the best pizza I have ever had. After we went shopping (hard to do when hanging out with 2 guys because I felt guilty for boring them....but not too guilty!).

I stumbled onto a little pottery store called Le Ceramiche Di Caltagirone where I got cute little bowls and pitchers.

Then we went on to Castle Saint Angelo. We climbed to the top of the castle which had excellent views overlooking Rome and took pictures.

That night we had reservations at La Tartaruga (Via del Monte della Farina 53,) in the Campo dei Fiori area. I had a really good pasta and then grouper. The restaurant had warm yellow walls with dark wood beamed ceilings which gave it a nice cozy atmosphere.

The next day we went to the Borghese Gallery (we had the hotel reserve our tickts) from 10:30am - 1:00pm. I wished I had booked a tour because it probably would have been more informative. But it was nice anyway.

After we walked around and had lunch at a neighborhood type restaurant called Enoteca Corsi. It was good and you could tell that mostly locals seemed to go there.

For dinner that night we walked over to the Travestere area for dinner. I was determined to find this restaurant I had read about called Spirito Divino. We walked and walked trying to find it and we could not find it to save our lives. So finally we ate at a place called Cave Canin which was a little pizzeria.

The next day we basically just wandered all over. We stopped into the Santa Maria church which was lovely. We had lunch back at 58 Via Dell Anima again (can't remember the new name but remember the address). Since this was our second to last day in Rome it was more leisurely.

Then we went to the Trevi Fountain at night to toss the obligatory coin to ensure our return. I also bought these cool ceramic salt & pepper shakers with a little tray at La Foglia Sas (Via Canestrari 2) in Piazza Navona.

Basically every night after dinner we would go to the piazza navona to sit and have after dinner drinks and people watch. Usually it was at Tre Scalini. As you sit there the same people always come by trying to sell you flowers. It basically happens all nights.

It's not a big deal but my brother-in-law can do the exact voice from Dr. Evil from the movie Austin Powers. So each time the same guy came by my brother-in-law would say "How bout noooo!" or "noooo".

What was funny was that the flower guys even recognized the voice and would die laughing along with everyone else.

The next morning was our last day so we headed over to the Pantheon one last time. There was this great sunlight in there....it looked completely different from all the other times I have been in there. It was amazing how different it looked.

Then bought another handbag...it was a tangerine colored handbag (slightly resembled the Birkin bag but much, much cheaper!) that you don't normally see in the U.S.

We got gelato at Piazza Navona and hung out before my brother-in-law had to head back to the hotel to catch his car to the airport.

After he left my husband and I had lunch at a little cafe across from Le Volte. We then headed to the train station where we took the Eurostar first class.

There was a mini drama on the train. These 2 german ladies were seated in a french ladies seat. They were all speaking in english. The german lady would not get out of the seat even though it was obvious it was not her seat.

The german lady was quite brazen asking the french girl to find a seat elsewhere that was not taken. Now the french girl was about 6 feet tall and she said "Why don't YOU find another seat to sit in!". This kept on going until the french girl got a train attendant who made the german lady move.

The german lady moved and sat right next to me (I was sitting across from my husband...won't do that again). Anyway it made for an interesting ride.

I have to say I was a little worn out after a full week of the fast pace in Rome. I was really looking forward to relaxing in Positano for the next week.

jh6000

Jennifer,

Thanks for posting your notes -- very much appreciated.

I am debating staying at the Due Torri versus the Mecenate Palace in Rome. There have been good reports on both, and I stayed at the Mecenate Palace last November. Would you mind providing some comments on the Due Torri: room size, location, value for money? (The rate I'm being quoted is 188 Euros for September). Any comments appreciated.

Thanks.

John H

Betsy

Hi, John. Mark and I stayed at the Due Torri in October 2001 and totally loved it. It's very professionally managed, and the sumptuous breakfast buffet (chocolate candy included) was outstanding. Our corner room was small but clean. The shower was miniscule in the shiny white bath. The location was perfect. We'd stay there again in a heartbeat. If you do a search on the hotel name, I think there're a lot of positive posts in the archives.

Are you doing the Scavi tour?

Buon buon viaggio!

JenniferW

jh6000, We really loved staying at Hotel Due Torri. We stayed on the 5th floor (towards the center) which had a nice big balcony with flowers....we had breakfast on the balcony every morning.

Our rate was 188 euro and that includes a great breakfast (boiled eggs, cereals, cheeses, breads and great cappucinno). The location is ideal in that you are minutes from the Pantheon, Pizza Navona yet it is quietly tucked away. And the service was great, they are always helpful with any info. that you may need.

awbaker

I'm really enjoying your report so far. Mr. Annoying Guy does sound very annoying! But it is also annoying that the tour guide didn't just start without him. If only she had! I had considered Hotel Due Torri for our Rome trip, but they couldn't promise a room with a terrace, and I wanted to know what room I could expect. I'm looking forward to hearing about your Positano time.

JenniferW

Positano

We arrived at the Naples train station where a car service (positano car serice) was waiting to pick us up. It took much longer to get to Positano this time because of traffic due to labor day weekend (May 1st).

We checked into Villa Rosa room 33....we had stunning views from our very large patio/balcony....very scenic.

We had reservations for Da Vincenzo....we had an absolutely fabulous meal (maybe the best one on the whole trip). We had this Antipasta sampler platter....the vegetables were so fresh....everything just melted in your mouth.

I had the gnocchi in a simple tomato sauce which I split with my husband. Then I had the Sea Bass and my husband had the fish special which was a local fish (can't remember the name). We had a liter of wine then after dinner I had lemoncello and my husband had vin santo. It was a great meal on a beautiful night.

That night we were awoken in the middle of the night by a group of people on their balcony at 1:30am. They were about 3 middle aged couples...very american and very southern, and quite loud!

They did quiet down after I politely asked them to (hate to be a party pooper but we were exhausted and needed sleep).

The next morning we had breakfast on this gorgeous balcony. Then headed out....we stopped at the famous Le Sirenuse which was across the street from our hotel.

Now I knew this would be the last trip to Italy for a while so I was prepared to do some serious shopping for Italian pottery. So I set out to scour the shops and ended up at my favorite Umberto Carro. They had so much gorgeous pottery to choose from. What is funny is last year they had a cute kitty sleeping in a large bowl and the same kitty was there sleeping in the same bowl.

I picked out 2 large platters and one pitcher....the three pieces did not come from the same pattern but they still looked good together so I purchased them.

It was a beautiful sunny day....but still a little chillier than last year. We made our way down to the beach and then had lunch at Buca di Baco....we had great seats overlooking all of the action on the beach.

I had lobster pasta (delicious!) and my husband had proscuitto & melon and then roasted chicken with peppers... along with a good bottle of Chianti. What I loved about this place was not just the food but how nice and quiet it was as opposed to the loud and overcrowded La Cambusa. It was well worth it.

JenniferW

positano cont.

After lunch we strolled all the way down the beach. Then we bought fresh cheese and proscuitto for the room along with my all time favorite, Prosecco! We had gelato on the way back.

Every night while getting ready for dinner we would have drinks on the balcony....it was so relaxing. That night we had reservations for La Tagliata.

When we got their it was packed (much different than last year but it was a holiday weekend). We had a liter of wine, I had caprese salad and steak, husband had proscuitto & melon and mixed grilled meats. Dessert was chocolate plumcake & lemoncello. It was a very good night.

jamikins

I'm loving your report Jennifer. Would you mind if I asked how much the positano car service charged to drive you from Naples to Positano?

Thanks!

wanderer

Jennifer -
Thanks for the great trip report.

Do you have any photos of your room at Villa Rosa? We are staying there next May.

I'm assuming with room #33, you were on the 3rd floor? How was the room itself?

JenniferW

Jamikins, We used Positano car service twice and each time was 90 euro. They were reliable and they did pull over on the side of the road once so we could take pictures.

Wanderer, Room 33 was very nice and spacious. I will try and figure out how to attach the pictures (we took many of the room and balcony).

The room was right near the small kitchen and the staff who made breakfast were loud in the morning but it would not have been so bad if they had closed the kitchen door. Although I was curious what the fourth floor rooms were like. I will post more later.

jh6000

Thanks, Jannifer and Liz, for your feedback on the Due Torri.

Liz, I am doing the Scavi tour. Did it about 10 years ago and am taking the rest of my travel group (3 others) there for the first time. We're going to do a papal audience as well.

John H.

wanderer

Jennifer -
My email address is [email protected] if/when you get the pictures figured out.

Would love to see them.

JenniferW

Positano cont.

The next morning started out overcast but then the sun came out. We weren't sure where the steps were that run up & down Positano and no one seemed to have a map. The tourist info. office was closed as well so we decided to wing it.

We bought some delicous salami/mozzarella sandwiches and snacks from this little market and put them in a backpack. We figured we would picnic once we got high enough. We wandered up a road for a while and an english couple stopped us to ask where the beach was.

We let them know and then they pointed us in the direction of the steps. This was quite a workout....we did this for about 2 hours and finally found a cute little villa to stop at with great views overlooking Positano and the ocean.

After we ate we continued up past these olive orchards...it was very nice. Then we decided to work our way back down to town.

I stopped into this little antique store that sold mostly glasses and antique bottles. I got these great antique perfume bottles that I thought would look great on my dresser at home.

Then stopped at our hotel to drop stuff off and then went down towards the beach for a snack at La Zaraga....they have very yummy gelato!

Then we decided to look for gifts for family and friends so we went back to Umberto Carro....the same kitty was still sleeping in the bowl as always.

We bought a wine pitcher for my parents, an olive oil container for my in-laws and another olive oil container for friends who are watching our cats.

Then went back to the room to shower and relax on the balcony before dinner. We had 8:30pm reservations for Il Rotrovo. They sent a car for us and another couple since it is up in Montepertoso. Our table had a nice view and the restaurant was nice and quiet.

We had a bottle of red wine. I ordered the shrimp appetizer...it was quite a bit of work since they came with their head, shell and all. They were ok but not worth all the work.

My husband had proscuitto & mozzarella. We split a pasta dish and I had the steak w/ mushrooms and he had the grilled chicken. After we had lemoncello w/ chocolate souffle (now the souffle was outstanding). The meal was fine but I liked the other ones we had been to more.

JenniferW

The next morning after breakfast we headed down to the beach to buy our tickets for the ferry to Amalfi and bus tickets to Ravello also.

They only had a few times available...if I remember correctly they only have a 10:00am and noon departure time. So we get on the ferry which is a nice scenic ride and it was a beautiful sunny day.

Once in Amalfi we had to wait for the 1:15pm bus so we decided to kill the time by getting some gelato at Savoia which is right across from the bus stop...I got pistaccio/rocher...it was the best gelato I had on the entire trip!

Then the bus came.....what an experience trying to get on this bus! Everyone was packed like sardines. We were standing on the bus ride up and even standing it was packed tight.


Once we got to Ravello we had lunch which was not good at the main piazza. The view was very nice and Ravello is beautiful and charming. Since I was not crazy about my sandwich I was feeding it to a very hungry stray kitty who was more than happy to eat it.

After lunch we bought tickets to go into Villa Rufolo. What extroadinary gardens and views! We just wandered around there for a while and then meandered in and out of expensive pottery shops.

As tempting as they were to buy I knew we would not have anymore room to pack more pottery (much to my husband's relief!).

We went to the bus stop early to catch the 4:00pm bus. At this point I was tired and determined to get a seat once this bus arrived.

When the bus pulled up it was survival of the fittest! I jumped on that bus (yes, I am embarrassed to admit this) before everyone was even off! But I got a seat!

I am 5'3 so it is easier for me to worm my way in...at least that is what I tell myself. Once we were on the bus this rude, stinky German lady was complaining to my husband (although we have no idea what she said) but she was acting like he was in her space...and he was sitting down.

He is six feet tall so she could not really huddle in his space too much (people kind of stand in your space even when your sitting on a bus). I must say it was a long, stinky ride.

Once back to Amalfi we went through the stores there for a while and then sat down at Savoia for another gelato....it was soooo good!

We then caught the ferry back to Positano since we had dinner reservations at Da Vincenzo again.

JenniferW

Positano cont.

That night Positano was back to it's old self (the crowds had left)....nice, quiet and romantic. The same was true for restaurants....the waiters had more time to leisurely talk to customers.

At Da Vincenzo that night I started out with the mussels, then potato croquettes & a really good steak. My husband had the antipasta, stuffed peppers & grilled chicken. Then we had a really good chocolate mousse with lemoncello & vin santo.

It was a really good dinner. Each time we have ever come here we have always been entertained by the lively owner and tonight was no different.

Throughout the night he would ring various bells....it was funny. So we had our picture taken with the owner ringing a bell.

We walked back to our enjoying the view...and lucky for us there was a down pour of rain right after we got back to the hotel. It poured all night, it was quite a storm....you could hear the heavy wrought iron patio furniture rattle through out the night.

JenniferW

The next morning the sun was up and the ocean was so rough you could hear the waves from our room. We went down to the beach to take pictures of the water spraying up (so high!) around the dock area.

There were no boats or ferries running that day. We had a lot of fun watching some daring folks take pictures near the edge. The waves were enormous and could easily wipe you off the dock if you got too close.

Some people got wet taking pictures further in....it was so funny watching them run from the water. There was a crowd of people watching this (myself included) and we were laughing so hard at the daring folks who would be running from the water.

Then we made our way back up to La Zaraga for a snack. They have a cute little outside courtyard with semi-views. I had fresh squeezed orange juice and gelato (pistacchio,choc.chip, strawberry), my husband had banana,choc,coconut). It was a good place to sit and relax for a while.

This was basically our intention of the day....to soak in Positano on our last day. Then we walked around the shopsand bought a bottle of lemoncello. Later we went to Cafe Positano for lunch. I had mussels & a small side salad. My husband had procuitto & melon and grilled chicken along with a half bottle of red.

We had a great view from our table of the water....it was so beautiful...almost aqua like in the carribean...must have been the storm.

Then we walked around & looked through some shops again. Went one last time to Umberto Carro (kitty was sleeping in the bowl again!....I think this cat has a disorder). This cat actually make my lazy cat at home look active, ha!.

I refrained from buying anymore pottery but felt a need to say goodbye to the store that we went to almost every day. We went back to our room to figure out how we are going to pack all this stuff (the next day we would head back to one more day in Rome).

And as always we enjoyed our last night on this beautiful balcony drinking prosecco. We were also getting ready for our 8:00pm dinner reservation at La Tagliata.

awbaker

Jennifer, it sounds like you had a lovely, lovely time. I enjoyed your report.

Is Umberto Carro close to Villa Rosa? How were the prices there compared to other stores you visited?

How were the towels and linens at V.R.? Did you have a problem with the kitchen noise every morning? Were you happy with the staff and service there?

If you have any photos, especially of V.R., could you email them to me also? [email protected]. Thanks again for the report, Jennifer.

JenniferW

awbaker, Umberto Carro is not far from Villa Rosa....it is up the hill past the bus stop on your right. They have what I thought was a better selection of pottery than the other places but it was not outrageously expensive.


The Villa Rosa towels were nice and soft but the kitchen door needed to be kept closed in the morning (I kept forgetting to ask the front desk).

I thought the staff was great....they were always there to answer any questions you may have.

I will post the rest of my trip report this week and try to figure out how to attach the pictures here (the pictures really turned out nice....I have great scenic shots from the balcony).

awbaker

Thanks so much for the information. It sounds like V.R. has everything we will need in a Positano hotel -- great view, large terrace & good service.

I hope you can figure out how to post your photos!