Spain Trip Part 1: Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba
Sep 26th, 2010, 08:18 AM
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Spain Trip Part 1: Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba
To be followed by Spain Part 2; Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja
To be followed by Spain Part 3; Granada, Barcelona
Background. We are in our late 60’s, from central California, reasonably healthy, but with just enough issues that our site seeing schedules need to be adjusted once in a while, and our days seem to start a little later than most (Hey, it IS a vacation!). We like historic sites, and while we appreciate good art, do not consider ourselves art experts. We don’t mind spending for good food.
I do most of the planning, after deciding with DW where and when we are going, and in general, what she wants to see. My sources include the Fodor’s book and their forum, and at least one other guide book. I also refer to Trip Advisor for hotels, but normally don’t place a lot of trust in TA. I usually spend a lot of time on the internet seeking out attractions and lodging options.
Our September Spain itinerary was:
4 nights Madrid, include day trip to Toledo
3 nights Sevilla, include stop at Cordoba on the way from Madrid
2 nights Ronda
2 nights Nerja
2 nights Granada
5 nights Barcelona, include day trip to Figueres
We flew out of Fresno on American to DFW, then direct to Madrid after a 5 hour layover. The flight was uneventful. Upon landing in Madrid on a Saturday, I headed immediately to the Renfe ticket office. It was closed, even though the sign said open. Ok, we’ll go to the office in town.
With our luggage, I did not want to negotiate the stairs of the subway system, so grabbed a cab to our hotel. The Hotel Roommate Alicia is one of a chain. This one suited us just fine. We were on the 3rd floor (4th floor in Europe), and by standing on toes and looking over the wall of a huge patio, looked down on Plaza Santa Ana, which we started considering our home after just a few days. A very pleasant hotel, helpful friendly staff, computer to use free. Room was nice sized, got DW’s stamp of approval. However, her hair dryer rating here was “pathetic.” (The jet engine she lugged from home, though purchased with assurances it was rigged for international, blew in less than a second after being fired up.) Computer in the lobby available for free.
Plaza Santa Ana was great. We took many of our meals there, as there were over a dozen restaurants and cafe’s lining the square. Every night, scores of locals came to congregate, stroll, let their kids run, etc. We did not tire of lingering over a beverage before retiring, sitting in the square, just watching all the going’s on, and chatting with folks near us. We ran into very few with English as a primary language, but most knew enough English to have an interesting conversation. In Madrid, and actually throughout our trip, the predominant foreign presence was British and northern European.
All the cafe’s had wonderful lunches, and tapas for late afternoon or evening fare. We had one bad dining experience, La Truche. Tapas were pathetic. Prawns on the menu turned out to be those tiny little shrimp we call Oregon, or bay, shrimp, and the “grilled” artichokes came out of a can and were barely warm. Besides, it was off the square and not nearly so interesting. However, the cafe’s around Pl. Santa Ana were all very good.
We fell into the rhythm real quick. Breakfast, offered by the hotel, 6 €, consisted of assorted breads, a toaster, jams and jellies, yogurt, mueslic, fruit, coffee, juices. There were a few cafe’s around that served a “Special English Breakfast”, which included eggs and beans. Brits must like white beans with their eggs. We saw it a lot, especially down in Costa del Sol, a British outpost. Never tried that combination. Didn’t look appealing to me. Lunch at a plaza cafe, usually after some site-seeing, about 3-4 pm, then dinner about 8 on. Most restaurants don’t open til 8, but you can always find a cafe with tapas, salads, etc open earlier.
Eggs on menus were generally listed as “Broken Eggs.” This could mean scrambled, an omelette, and in one case, fried sunny side up, with a piece of toast on top, the yoke showing through a hole cut in the toast. Most menu’s were available in English, though some of the Spanish phrases don’t translate well. Imagination is sometimes useful, but asking the waiters is the best method to investigate what something is. They all seem to speak sufficient English. Another good method is if you see something on the table next to you that looks good, just tell the waiter you want that.
While we’re on the subject, I have developed a list of essential Spanish terms, which I will pass along here for those who do not learn much Spanish. Every once in a while I will throw them in these reports. Here is the first batch of essential Spanish words:
Helado = Ice Cream, much like Gelato
Heladeria = A place to get Helado
Vanilla = Vanilla
Chocolate = Chocolate
Strawberry = Strawberry
Nata = Whipped Cream
Nueces = Nuts
I learned these words on the spot about the second day in country. I already knew “Cerveza,” and assume everyone else does too, so it is not listed here.
Learn these and you will find them quit useful. And, most of the Heladeria’s have menu’s with pictures, so you just point to one and say. “That one.” They will keep asking you as they build it if you want whipped cream and nuts, etc. Just keep nodding, it will be great.
Actually, I did put some effort into learning a bit of the language. It was fun to use it, and found many wanted to practice English in return. Any effort you make will be rewarded with friendly smiles and instruction on proper pronounciation. My vocabulary grew daily.
But I digress. After settling into our hotel, we walked the short distance downhill to the beautiful Madrid train station, Atocha. We found the Renfe Customer Service office (found in most larger stations). The clerk there spoke pretty good English, and allowed me to practice some Spanish. This board is full of the difficulties of buying Renfe tickets online. But I wanted to get the Tarjeta Dorada, or Old Folks’ Card (as I call it). It is for senior discounts, sometimes up to 40%. But, available only in person at the Renfe offices. Only 5 €, and must be bought first. I wanted to get space for a day trip to Toledo, and our one way trip to Sevilla, stopping in Cordoba. The clerk wrote everything down for me.
Then he sent me over to the ticket counters. There is a line for “Todays Trains” and one for other types of tickets. You take a number from a little dispenser, like the bakery back home, then wait until your number is called up on a computer screen, which tells you which window number to go to.
Essential Spanish Word:
Dispacio, por favor = Slowly, please.
I got my tickets, saved combined 72 € with the Old Folks’ Card. Interesting point: They can only charge twice on one credit card, and have to charge each thing separately. So the cards were 2 charges, the tickets were 4 charges, so I had to pay cash for some of the tickets. Had I known, I would have paid cash for the 5 € cards, then charged the more expensive tickets. More credit card frustration from Renfe.
For a complete report on our train experiences, check out my report “Spain Trains - a new user’s report - positive” recently posted here.
After taking many pictures of the inside of this beautiful old building, we walked back across the boulevard and visited the Reina Sofia. It features modern art and the famous “Guernica.” Crowded inside, but flowed well. We took the Metro back “up” hill to Pl Santa Ana. Piece of cake. Very simple system and easy to use to get tickets and find your train. Should be so easy in New York.
Dinner that night, our first in Spain, was the aforementioned unfortunate La Truche. ‘Nuff said. When we left the restaurant, our spirits were immediately lifted by the sights and sounds of the Plaza, where we enjoyed some (what else) helado, and watched the going’s on.
Sunday, the Prada. I had purchased tickets on line with a 10:30 am time slot. There was no need on this day. No lines whatsoever until about 12:00 We got the audio guide, which was terrific, though a bit more detail then I needed. We spent 3 hours on the lower level. We truly enjoyed this day, though it was tiring. The museum flows well, and there are many wonderful paintings, and space to just stand and absorb some that strikes you. The audio guide adds some historical notes on the painters and their works.
Decided to eat in Prado’s large cafeteria, and had surprisingly good salmon and beef dinners and great deserts. About 27 € . Went back for another hour plus for the upper level.
Afterwards, walked through the upscale neighborhood to Retiro Park, where we wandered for a while and ended up sucking on a coke at a cafe overlooking the historic Lake watching Madrid chill out on a day at the park. Lotsa folks in the boats, and families enjoying the day. Weather was good, clear blue sky, about high 80’s F.
That night, Cervaceria Santa Ana, on the square, served up some great 3 cheese ravioli, and we watched as locals by the scores flooded the square. A great scene.
Next day, Monday, we had tickets to Toledo on Renfe. We left Atocha station at 10:20 for the 30 minute ride to Toledo. Took a bus (#61) up to Plaza Zocodover and checked in at the TI for a map of the city. Loved the tiny narrow streets down to the cathedral, got a little lost actually. At the cathedral, got the audio guides which were very good, and took some time wandering through this grand ornate building, absorbing the history. Toledo thrived for several hundred years as capital of Spain, but in the 1500‘s, the capital was moved to Madrid.
The huge collection of vestments was incredible. They were heavily embroidered, and just plain heavy looking. Given the heat of the area we wondered how they survived wearing them. The Alcazar was closed, an oversight on my planning.
Back at the Plaza Zocodover, we lunched at one of the cafe’s, and watched the goofy little Zoco Tren coming and going. It’s a little truck towing some open cars with benches in them. We decided on a whim to go ahead and take it, and we were glad we did. You get the tickets at a little store up from the plaza. It leaves hourly from the Plaza, takes about 40 minutes. Be sure to sit on the right side. The train circles Toledo’s old city clockwise, and those on the left were fighting for pictures without someones head in it.
It was hard enough. The train is going pretty fast, so you have to just snap off a bunch of shots, you’ll get a few good ones without telephone poles in them. But it does stop once for a photo op up on a hill looking over the river to the Alcazar and cathedral, with all the walls. A beautiful and awesome sight indeed.
We took a bus back to the Toledo train station. It is a beautiful building in it’s own right, with intricate woodwork inside, and a repaired exterior. We were early by almost an hour, our train departing at 17:44. So we had plenty of time.
Tuesday: After breakfast at the hotel, we walked up to Puerto del Sol, then down to Plaza Mayor, taking in all the sights, and making note of Salon La Mallorquina, a famous bakery. Walked through almost vacant Plaza Mayor, and then to the market, where we saw an incredible display of beautiful fruits and vegetables. Fish and meat markets were also active. Very busy place.
We walked over and toured the Royal Palace. This was a real treat in several respects. The history was fascinating. It was obviously modeled after Shoenbrun and Versailles, though not as extravagant. The stairway was quite regal. The collection of armored suits and weapons of war was one of the most complete and well done as I have seen. Mannequins of knights in shining armor were mounted on horses (horsequins?) also dressed out in elaborate ceremonial armor and blankets. Our audio guides were very good here. There were several cases of the earliest of firearms. We also laughed about the leather case, rather large, displayed in the Farmacia. This was the bag that the farmacist would fill with medications when traveling with the king. The meds in our suitcase could use their own case.
On our way back to Puerto del Sol we stopped at Plaza Mayor, looking for paella. We hadn’t had any since hitting Spain. We found a cafe there in the shade (it was over 90 this day) and out of the wind. The paella was very good. We declared the best we had eaten. Later, up at Puerto del Sol, I succumbed to one of the beautiful pastries. It was awesome. DW just shook her head, never quite believing the junk I can eat. “You just ate!” I was still a little sick at dinner time. But I didn’t tell her that.
Wednesday: Time to leave Madrid. We caught our 10:00 train to Cordoba. The movie playing wasn’t quite finished when we pulled into Cordoba 1 hour 42 minutes later. It had Spanish and English channels to plug into. DW was upset, because she had been watching it, and it was getting near the dramatic ending. We got off the train, and lugged our luggage across the street to the bus station, where we hoped to find lockers to store our stuff for the afternoon. Sure enough, there they were, and a uniformed guy who spoke almost no English came over to help, as I guess we looked like we needed it.
I found on many occassions people would come to help us. Made me feel a little self conscious at times. I mean, I wonder what we look like? A couple of old folks lost and confused? Uhmm!
I got some change. We needed 3 lockers at 3,50 € each for our stuff. He helped stuff it all in there. We grabbed a cab and got up to the Mezquita by about 12:30. We wandered in the Mezquita and the grounds, using the audio guide. We marvelled at the sheer size of it all. At one time, 40,000 could worship in the mosque at one time. After the reconquista, a grand, golden, opulent church was built right in the middle of it. Well at least, they didn’t tear down the mosque.
We sat in the garden and tried to imagine the brutal history of this place, yet also bringing stability and prosperity during the muslim period. I still haven’t got my mind completely around it. Combined with the historical things we saw in Toledo and later Sevilla, I have the urge to read some history of this area. And, we could not help but think a little about the current events being hotly debated today.
When we finished our time there, the audio guide return station was closed for siesta. We sought out lunch, and DW demanded a “nice” place. No more tapas and cafe’s. Nope. We try to find a “nice” place. We found on a little side street a wonderful looking place called Rincon de Carmen, and were seated in a little patio covered with vines. It was peaceful and cool. DW had found her “nice” place.
Not for long. We decided to try flamequin, which the waiter could not describe for us, except that it was pork. He brought out a plate full of greasy fries and a pork roll, fat fried. DW was horrified, I was in hog heaven and wouldn’t leave. She nibbled around the edges. It was a “nice looking” place, but certainly not to her liking food-wise. I told her I liked her “nice” places. She just looked at me and shook her head again. “Disgusting.”
We walked across the Roman Bridge, took some photos, and by the time we got back down to the Alcazar, it had closed at 14:30. Another little planning goof. So we walked along the outside wall, taking our time at the big square around the main gate. It had definitely moved past warm into hot territory. Then got a cab back to the bus station, reclaimed our luggage, and got the 17:44 train to Sevilla.
When we got on the train, DW plugged into the movie, and low and behold, it was the one she had been watching, and started up right where she had left it when we came into Cordoba. For the next 45 minutes, we burped our way into Sevilla for the next phase of our trip.
During this phase, we made good use of trains, and found them to be quite relaxing and peaceful way to get around. The AVE is fast, smooth, and DW was happy with the cleanliness. Two thumbs up. I also have a goal of reading some history of this region. History offered up by tour books and phamplets is probably a bit abridged. From 700 to about 1500, this region went through cataclysmic religious and social changes. I need to learn more about it.
Stay tuned for Part 2: Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja
To be followed by Spain Part 3; Granada, Barcelona
Background. We are in our late 60’s, from central California, reasonably healthy, but with just enough issues that our site seeing schedules need to be adjusted once in a while, and our days seem to start a little later than most (Hey, it IS a vacation!). We like historic sites, and while we appreciate good art, do not consider ourselves art experts. We don’t mind spending for good food.
I do most of the planning, after deciding with DW where and when we are going, and in general, what she wants to see. My sources include the Fodor’s book and their forum, and at least one other guide book. I also refer to Trip Advisor for hotels, but normally don’t place a lot of trust in TA. I usually spend a lot of time on the internet seeking out attractions and lodging options.
Our September Spain itinerary was:
4 nights Madrid, include day trip to Toledo
3 nights Sevilla, include stop at Cordoba on the way from Madrid
2 nights Ronda
2 nights Nerja
2 nights Granada
5 nights Barcelona, include day trip to Figueres
We flew out of Fresno on American to DFW, then direct to Madrid after a 5 hour layover. The flight was uneventful. Upon landing in Madrid on a Saturday, I headed immediately to the Renfe ticket office. It was closed, even though the sign said open. Ok, we’ll go to the office in town.
With our luggage, I did not want to negotiate the stairs of the subway system, so grabbed a cab to our hotel. The Hotel Roommate Alicia is one of a chain. This one suited us just fine. We were on the 3rd floor (4th floor in Europe), and by standing on toes and looking over the wall of a huge patio, looked down on Plaza Santa Ana, which we started considering our home after just a few days. A very pleasant hotel, helpful friendly staff, computer to use free. Room was nice sized, got DW’s stamp of approval. However, her hair dryer rating here was “pathetic.” (The jet engine she lugged from home, though purchased with assurances it was rigged for international, blew in less than a second after being fired up.) Computer in the lobby available for free.
Plaza Santa Ana was great. We took many of our meals there, as there were over a dozen restaurants and cafe’s lining the square. Every night, scores of locals came to congregate, stroll, let their kids run, etc. We did not tire of lingering over a beverage before retiring, sitting in the square, just watching all the going’s on, and chatting with folks near us. We ran into very few with English as a primary language, but most knew enough English to have an interesting conversation. In Madrid, and actually throughout our trip, the predominant foreign presence was British and northern European.
All the cafe’s had wonderful lunches, and tapas for late afternoon or evening fare. We had one bad dining experience, La Truche. Tapas were pathetic. Prawns on the menu turned out to be those tiny little shrimp we call Oregon, or bay, shrimp, and the “grilled” artichokes came out of a can and were barely warm. Besides, it was off the square and not nearly so interesting. However, the cafe’s around Pl. Santa Ana were all very good.
We fell into the rhythm real quick. Breakfast, offered by the hotel, 6 €, consisted of assorted breads, a toaster, jams and jellies, yogurt, mueslic, fruit, coffee, juices. There were a few cafe’s around that served a “Special English Breakfast”, which included eggs and beans. Brits must like white beans with their eggs. We saw it a lot, especially down in Costa del Sol, a British outpost. Never tried that combination. Didn’t look appealing to me. Lunch at a plaza cafe, usually after some site-seeing, about 3-4 pm, then dinner about 8 on. Most restaurants don’t open til 8, but you can always find a cafe with tapas, salads, etc open earlier.
Eggs on menus were generally listed as “Broken Eggs.” This could mean scrambled, an omelette, and in one case, fried sunny side up, with a piece of toast on top, the yoke showing through a hole cut in the toast. Most menu’s were available in English, though some of the Spanish phrases don’t translate well. Imagination is sometimes useful, but asking the waiters is the best method to investigate what something is. They all seem to speak sufficient English. Another good method is if you see something on the table next to you that looks good, just tell the waiter you want that.
While we’re on the subject, I have developed a list of essential Spanish terms, which I will pass along here for those who do not learn much Spanish. Every once in a while I will throw them in these reports. Here is the first batch of essential Spanish words:
Helado = Ice Cream, much like Gelato
Heladeria = A place to get Helado
Vanilla = Vanilla
Chocolate = Chocolate
Strawberry = Strawberry
Nata = Whipped Cream
Nueces = Nuts
I learned these words on the spot about the second day in country. I already knew “Cerveza,” and assume everyone else does too, so it is not listed here.
Learn these and you will find them quit useful. And, most of the Heladeria’s have menu’s with pictures, so you just point to one and say. “That one.” They will keep asking you as they build it if you want whipped cream and nuts, etc. Just keep nodding, it will be great.
Actually, I did put some effort into learning a bit of the language. It was fun to use it, and found many wanted to practice English in return. Any effort you make will be rewarded with friendly smiles and instruction on proper pronounciation. My vocabulary grew daily.
But I digress. After settling into our hotel, we walked the short distance downhill to the beautiful Madrid train station, Atocha. We found the Renfe Customer Service office (found in most larger stations). The clerk there spoke pretty good English, and allowed me to practice some Spanish. This board is full of the difficulties of buying Renfe tickets online. But I wanted to get the Tarjeta Dorada, or Old Folks’ Card (as I call it). It is for senior discounts, sometimes up to 40%. But, available only in person at the Renfe offices. Only 5 €, and must be bought first. I wanted to get space for a day trip to Toledo, and our one way trip to Sevilla, stopping in Cordoba. The clerk wrote everything down for me.
Then he sent me over to the ticket counters. There is a line for “Todays Trains” and one for other types of tickets. You take a number from a little dispenser, like the bakery back home, then wait until your number is called up on a computer screen, which tells you which window number to go to.
Essential Spanish Word:
Dispacio, por favor = Slowly, please.
I got my tickets, saved combined 72 € with the Old Folks’ Card. Interesting point: They can only charge twice on one credit card, and have to charge each thing separately. So the cards were 2 charges, the tickets were 4 charges, so I had to pay cash for some of the tickets. Had I known, I would have paid cash for the 5 € cards, then charged the more expensive tickets. More credit card frustration from Renfe.
For a complete report on our train experiences, check out my report “Spain Trains - a new user’s report - positive” recently posted here.
After taking many pictures of the inside of this beautiful old building, we walked back across the boulevard and visited the Reina Sofia. It features modern art and the famous “Guernica.” Crowded inside, but flowed well. We took the Metro back “up” hill to Pl Santa Ana. Piece of cake. Very simple system and easy to use to get tickets and find your train. Should be so easy in New York.
Dinner that night, our first in Spain, was the aforementioned unfortunate La Truche. ‘Nuff said. When we left the restaurant, our spirits were immediately lifted by the sights and sounds of the Plaza, where we enjoyed some (what else) helado, and watched the going’s on.
Sunday, the Prada. I had purchased tickets on line with a 10:30 am time slot. There was no need on this day. No lines whatsoever until about 12:00 We got the audio guide, which was terrific, though a bit more detail then I needed. We spent 3 hours on the lower level. We truly enjoyed this day, though it was tiring. The museum flows well, and there are many wonderful paintings, and space to just stand and absorb some that strikes you. The audio guide adds some historical notes on the painters and their works.
Decided to eat in Prado’s large cafeteria, and had surprisingly good salmon and beef dinners and great deserts. About 27 € . Went back for another hour plus for the upper level.
Afterwards, walked through the upscale neighborhood to Retiro Park, where we wandered for a while and ended up sucking on a coke at a cafe overlooking the historic Lake watching Madrid chill out on a day at the park. Lotsa folks in the boats, and families enjoying the day. Weather was good, clear blue sky, about high 80’s F.
That night, Cervaceria Santa Ana, on the square, served up some great 3 cheese ravioli, and we watched as locals by the scores flooded the square. A great scene.
Next day, Monday, we had tickets to Toledo on Renfe. We left Atocha station at 10:20 for the 30 minute ride to Toledo. Took a bus (#61) up to Plaza Zocodover and checked in at the TI for a map of the city. Loved the tiny narrow streets down to the cathedral, got a little lost actually. At the cathedral, got the audio guides which were very good, and took some time wandering through this grand ornate building, absorbing the history. Toledo thrived for several hundred years as capital of Spain, but in the 1500‘s, the capital was moved to Madrid.
The huge collection of vestments was incredible. They were heavily embroidered, and just plain heavy looking. Given the heat of the area we wondered how they survived wearing them. The Alcazar was closed, an oversight on my planning.
Back at the Plaza Zocodover, we lunched at one of the cafe’s, and watched the goofy little Zoco Tren coming and going. It’s a little truck towing some open cars with benches in them. We decided on a whim to go ahead and take it, and we were glad we did. You get the tickets at a little store up from the plaza. It leaves hourly from the Plaza, takes about 40 minutes. Be sure to sit on the right side. The train circles Toledo’s old city clockwise, and those on the left were fighting for pictures without someones head in it.
It was hard enough. The train is going pretty fast, so you have to just snap off a bunch of shots, you’ll get a few good ones without telephone poles in them. But it does stop once for a photo op up on a hill looking over the river to the Alcazar and cathedral, with all the walls. A beautiful and awesome sight indeed.
We took a bus back to the Toledo train station. It is a beautiful building in it’s own right, with intricate woodwork inside, and a repaired exterior. We were early by almost an hour, our train departing at 17:44. So we had plenty of time.
Tuesday: After breakfast at the hotel, we walked up to Puerto del Sol, then down to Plaza Mayor, taking in all the sights, and making note of Salon La Mallorquina, a famous bakery. Walked through almost vacant Plaza Mayor, and then to the market, where we saw an incredible display of beautiful fruits and vegetables. Fish and meat markets were also active. Very busy place.
We walked over and toured the Royal Palace. This was a real treat in several respects. The history was fascinating. It was obviously modeled after Shoenbrun and Versailles, though not as extravagant. The stairway was quite regal. The collection of armored suits and weapons of war was one of the most complete and well done as I have seen. Mannequins of knights in shining armor were mounted on horses (horsequins?) also dressed out in elaborate ceremonial armor and blankets. Our audio guides were very good here. There were several cases of the earliest of firearms. We also laughed about the leather case, rather large, displayed in the Farmacia. This was the bag that the farmacist would fill with medications when traveling with the king. The meds in our suitcase could use their own case.
On our way back to Puerto del Sol we stopped at Plaza Mayor, looking for paella. We hadn’t had any since hitting Spain. We found a cafe there in the shade (it was over 90 this day) and out of the wind. The paella was very good. We declared the best we had eaten. Later, up at Puerto del Sol, I succumbed to one of the beautiful pastries. It was awesome. DW just shook her head, never quite believing the junk I can eat. “You just ate!” I was still a little sick at dinner time. But I didn’t tell her that.
Wednesday: Time to leave Madrid. We caught our 10:00 train to Cordoba. The movie playing wasn’t quite finished when we pulled into Cordoba 1 hour 42 minutes later. It had Spanish and English channels to plug into. DW was upset, because she had been watching it, and it was getting near the dramatic ending. We got off the train, and lugged our luggage across the street to the bus station, where we hoped to find lockers to store our stuff for the afternoon. Sure enough, there they were, and a uniformed guy who spoke almost no English came over to help, as I guess we looked like we needed it.
I found on many occassions people would come to help us. Made me feel a little self conscious at times. I mean, I wonder what we look like? A couple of old folks lost and confused? Uhmm!
I got some change. We needed 3 lockers at 3,50 € each for our stuff. He helped stuff it all in there. We grabbed a cab and got up to the Mezquita by about 12:30. We wandered in the Mezquita and the grounds, using the audio guide. We marvelled at the sheer size of it all. At one time, 40,000 could worship in the mosque at one time. After the reconquista, a grand, golden, opulent church was built right in the middle of it. Well at least, they didn’t tear down the mosque.
We sat in the garden and tried to imagine the brutal history of this place, yet also bringing stability and prosperity during the muslim period. I still haven’t got my mind completely around it. Combined with the historical things we saw in Toledo and later Sevilla, I have the urge to read some history of this area. And, we could not help but think a little about the current events being hotly debated today.
When we finished our time there, the audio guide return station was closed for siesta. We sought out lunch, and DW demanded a “nice” place. No more tapas and cafe’s. Nope. We try to find a “nice” place. We found on a little side street a wonderful looking place called Rincon de Carmen, and were seated in a little patio covered with vines. It was peaceful and cool. DW had found her “nice” place.
Not for long. We decided to try flamequin, which the waiter could not describe for us, except that it was pork. He brought out a plate full of greasy fries and a pork roll, fat fried. DW was horrified, I was in hog heaven and wouldn’t leave. She nibbled around the edges. It was a “nice looking” place, but certainly not to her liking food-wise. I told her I liked her “nice” places. She just looked at me and shook her head again. “Disgusting.”
We walked across the Roman Bridge, took some photos, and by the time we got back down to the Alcazar, it had closed at 14:30. Another little planning goof. So we walked along the outside wall, taking our time at the big square around the main gate. It had definitely moved past warm into hot territory. Then got a cab back to the bus station, reclaimed our luggage, and got the 17:44 train to Sevilla.
When we got on the train, DW plugged into the movie, and low and behold, it was the one she had been watching, and started up right where she had left it when we came into Cordoba. For the next 45 minutes, we burped our way into Sevilla for the next phase of our trip.
During this phase, we made good use of trains, and found them to be quite relaxing and peaceful way to get around. The AVE is fast, smooth, and DW was happy with the cleanliness. Two thumbs up. I also have a goal of reading some history of this region. History offered up by tour books and phamplets is probably a bit abridged. From 700 to about 1500, this region went through cataclysmic religious and social changes. I need to learn more about it.
Stay tuned for Part 2: Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja
