Spain: Toledo or Ronda
 

This is my first Fodor's post but definitely not my last. (I have not needed to post before because I have always found so much helpful info already.) I have an upcoming 17-day trip to Spain in late October and the way that it appears to be looking, I'm going to have to cut out one destination during the trip. So, the question is for those who have been to both Toledo and Ronda, which would you recommend? We would only have a full day to spend in either one. We enjoy a mix of some artsy things and outdoor sightseeing/ walking. We're already going to Madrid, Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla...with a few day trips sprinkled in from Granada (Nerja) and Sevilla (Jerez). I really wanted to visit a cool small Andalucian town/village just to get the feel of a smaller Spanish town and I thought Ronda might fit the bill. But, I've heard Toledo can be interesting, too. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I've got so much amazing info already that I cannot wait for my trip!

Although Ronda is interesting, and worth a couple of hours, if not a half-day, Toledo is the best choice if you must choose between the two. There are a couple of new (within the last couple of years) restaurants in Toledo worth the trip in itself, as well as its excellent museums. You may want to read Maribel's Guide to Madrid, which has a very informative section on Toledo.

This is a difficult choice since I really enjoyed both towns. However, if I had to choose I would go with Toledo -- especially if you will be able to spend the night there. The ancient streets of Toledo are truly magical at night. Although you will already be seeing some marvelous cathedrals (like Seville), the cathedral in Toledo was my favorite. The retable and transparante are just incredible. Toledo is wonderful to wander around with lots of great shops and ambience. Also, if you are an El Greco fan, you will want to visit his house (he never actually lived in this building, but the furnishings and especially the paintings are well worth seeing. You would also want to see the chapel with his "Burial of Count Orgaz."

Ronda is definitely a cool, small Andalusian town -- very scenic. We also enjoyed the prehistoric caves at La Pileta nearby. As I said, we loved both places, but I would not be able to pass up Toledo. (If you can, I would skip Cordoba and do Ronda and Toledo instead.)

Skip Nerja and go to both Toledo and Ronda.

Do not skip Cordoba - a visit to the Mezquita is a unique experience.

It is also a matter of time and convenience. Toledo is very close to Madrid and easily accessible. Ronda is a bit of the way.

They are botrh intriguing for different reasons. Toledo for the EL Grecos, the psoition and topography of the town and Ronda has the most extraordinary roman bridge when entering the town and the culture of bullfighting.

Toledo

My vote is for Toledo! It's a beautiful city, and I would love to stay overnight there one of these days...

I've never been to Ronda, so consider this an unabashedly one sided opinion! :D

We did a 14 day trip visiting almost the same places you are planning on and we went to both Toledo and Ronda. If you can only do only one - I would say Toledo. It is an easy day trip from Madrid and so amazing. If you wanted to fit in Ronda - you could do it in place of either Nerja or Jerez, IMHO. We were also at both of these places on our trip but they weren't as enjoyable as Ronda. One more suggestion is for Segovia - we went there on the bus from Madrid and spent the night and really enjoyed it as well.

I am Aduchamp; your question is more about logistics than anything else. Toledo is an hour train ride from Madrid. Ronda is an hour car drive from Seville. They either fit your logistics or they don't. That said, I've been to both and find them very, very charming. Toledo may have an edge because it has an amazing visual history and incredible sights. That said, Toledo can get incredibly crowded; October: better). Ronda is worth a stop say on your way to Granada from Seville (or the other loop around). A 17-day trip is a good chunk of time and I wonder what your itinerary looks like when such gems like Ronda and Toledo are falling off.....

I have to say Ronda is a very special place, up in the mountains. If you have time get the book "Death in the Afternoon" by Ernest Heminghway, written while he was spending time in Ronda. Orson Welles is also buried in Ronda, he just adored the town.

I meant " I am WITH AduChamp1...."

Toledo and Ronda are both better choices than Nerja and Jerez. Toledo is a gem and well worth an overnight.

Another vote for Toledo. Although I loved Ronda too, I think Toledo has more to offer, and agree about staying overnight--it was magical, especially where we stayed--Hostal Cardenal, built into the old walls. And I'd add Segovia to your list if you have time.

Thanks for all the help. Its great to get so much helpful info. Its definitely not an easy decision. I think we'll try to work in both Toledo and Ronda. We'll still have time (I think) for either Nerja or Jerez. We're leaning more toward Nerja because we'd like to just visit the beach for a day. Plus, we won't be driving any so we have to do the bus or train and Nerja seems fairly easy by bus from Granada.

Reen how close by are the pre-historic caves from Ronda? Is it doable by public transport? Thanks.

The Cueva de la Pileta is the one with the paintings. It is a private property and you have to fix an appointment for a guide to wait for you. Fee is cheap. I believe you have to go by your own means, and there is no bus, but I suppose you can hire a taxi.
Another cave is Cueva del Gato, you cannot get in as it can be dangerous. There is a pond below the entrance for bathing in the sumer, and a small new rural hotel http://www.hotelcuevadelgato.com/

Oceania, we did have a car when we visited the caves. I think it might be difficult to reach otherwise. We had no reservation when we went. This was several years ago so things may have changed. But when I looked at the official website, http://www.cuevadelapileta.org/ it says that reservations are only available for groups or at the 10:00 opening time. Visiting hours (according to the website) are somewhat limited though: 10:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 18:00. From the 1st of November to the 15th of April the afternoon schedule is only 17:00 to 18:00.

Just back from a Spain trip two days ago, and we covered all the places you have mentioned. I am sure you can squeeze in both Toledo and Ronda, but if you have to choose, definitely choose Toledo. It is a far more beautiful and interesting place, and you can easily spend a day there (it takes only 30 min by the AVANT train from Madrid). As for Ronda, it is beautiful and interesting, but probably worth half a day; found it too quiet to spend a night there. As for Nerja, you can easily cover that as a half-day trip from Granada; the Balcon de Europa at Nerja is an excellent sight. And we found the Nerja caves also very interesting.

In case anyone is interested:

There is not any public transport to go to the Pileta Cave.

You only can get a taxi ( about 50 €) or rent the services of the following agencies (which organize different trips around Ronda):

PANGEA ACTIVE NATURE Å952 87 34 96
www.pangeacentral.com Å630 56 27 05
Avda. Málaga. Pasaje Cayetano, Local 10

VIAJES BAITI
www.viajesbaiti.com Å902 10 46 60
[email protected]
C/ Sevilla nº 5 – 7, Local G

If you stay in Toledo...try to stay at the Parador there. At night, the view of Toledo is exquiste.... just like an El Greco painting.

The Parador is nice, but is currently undergoing a major renovation and has only a few rooms available. The renovation is supposed to be complete sometime in early 2008, but you'll have to check.