Spain Solo - Part 2
 

I'm sorry to be starting a new thread - but it wouldn't let me post to my old thread. Has this happened to anyone? What do you do?

Anyway, this forum is FANTASTIC! Thank you so much for the advice, kristina & cruiseluv. Kristina, I absolutely loved your Spain trip report & photos! I was laughing at you being a "travel tyrant" - I feel I'm kind of the same way. I love to plan, plan, plan! It looks like you had an amazing time & makes me want to go even more.

I was able to find an open jaw ticket - so let me know how this plan sounds-

Sunday - arrive Seville 1pm
Monday - Seville
Tuesday - Seville (1st day of Feria)
Wednesday - leave Seville & take AVE to Madrid. Could I stop in Cordoba on the way for a few hours? Are stops allowed on the AVE?
Thursday - Madrid
Friday - Madrid
Saturday - fly home from Madrid

Does this sound do-able for a first time solo traveller? Do you think that is enough time in each place? I'm really excited about the thought of being in Seville during Feria - although I will really only be there one day for it, I think it will give me a great taste of it. Or should I stay longer in Seville?

As soon as I work up the nerve to buy a plane ticket, I'll have to start researching hotels, esp. in Seville since I'm sure they get quite full during Feria. My open jaw ticket is running $639 plus tax from the midwest - does that seem reasonable?

Thanks again for all the help & advice.

you can stop in cordoba, just buy two tickets. one to cordoba and one to sevilla.

If I stopped in Cordoba, is there a place to store luggage at the train station?

Another thought I had - would I be better off spending 4 nights in Seville & 2 in Madrid? After doing more reserach, I have a feeling I may be more interested in Seville. Especially during Feria. I'm sure there is quite a bit to do in Madrid, but could I see the major sights in 2 days? Maybe the Prado, Royal Palace & Botanical Gardens? I've read many conflicting reports on Madrid on this forum - seems like people either love it or hate it.

Hi Lolly,

That's strange that it didn't let you post again to your own thread!

Regarding the Fiesta in Sevilla... I didn't go to Sevilla during Feria so I can't comment from first hand experience. There was a very recent thread discussing the pros and cons of going to Sevilla during the Feria. I am not implying it's a bad idea as I have never attended it. Maybe those posters will comment under this thread.

Regarding the stopover in Cordoba, I found this post:

"Author: fluffnfold
Date: 07/20/2006, 11:17 am
thezanmiller:

I'm planning to stop over in Cordoba en route from Madrid to Seville next month. I purchased two separate tickets, rather than to try to squeeze in the visit on the 3-hour layover between parts of the same itinerary. Madrid to Cordoba, 2 hours, cost 58 Euros per person (Preferente Class); Cordoba to Seville, 45 minutes, cost about 16 Euros per person (Club class). I think that I chose non-peak times for each, although they were just the times that we wanted to go anyway. We're planning to "layover" for about 6 hours in Cordoba. While I'm sure that's not enough time to fully appreciate the city, I figure that it's better than not stopping at all, and we should certainly be able to see the Mezquita in that length of time. (We'll take cabs to/from the train station to save time; 4 to 5 Euros each way.) As for luggage storage, I'm hoping that what I've read is true, since we will also have our bags with us. Supposedly, there are three types of lockers available (small, medium, large). However, there are only 12 large lockers available. Prices are 2,40E, 3,00E, and 4,50E per day. I'm not sure where I found that luggage storage info, but I believe it's at the train station. If not, it's at the bus station, right next door. If you hear anything else, please post."


I like the way you have distributed the days. I would keep the 3 nights in Madrid. If you feel you have done everything you want to do in Madrid the first full day there, you could do a day trip to Toledo or Segovia.

About Seville, have you made your hotel reservations yet??? I have read a couple posts here that rooms are very hard to find and very expensive, even for those willing to stay in surrounding towns.

If I were you, I would see what is still available in Seville before making firmer plans.

Lolly-
Yes, I've heard of other posters having a hard time replying and I don't know why that happens.
I think you itinerary looks ok. Keep in mind your arrival day might be a bit of a wash. By the time you arrive at your hotel, settle in, maybe take a rest, it will be dinner time.
Yes, you should be able to make a stop in Cordoba. I do think they have luggage storage at the train station. Do a search here, I think that question has been asked before.
As for taking a day off Madrid, that's a tough call. I love Madrid, so I'm of the camp that would day leave your itinerary as is, giving equal time to both destinations.

Another plus to keeping your schedule as you have it is that you could take a daytrip from Madrid to either Toledo or Segovia--both are great and well worth seeing.

IMO the Botanical Gardens in Madrid weren't really worth the trip, but the Prado and Sofia are both amazing.

Thanks once again cruiseluv & kristina!

Alright, I have made up my mind. I'm going to do this trip! Once I confirm tomorrow at work that I can have that week off, I am booking my ticket!

Thanks for all the encouragement.

After hearing your replies - I think I will keep 3 nights in each Seville & Madrid. However, I realized after reading amyb's trip report that many sites in Seville are closed on Monday. So I thought-

Sunday - arrive Seville 1pm, wander around
Monday - day trip to Cordoba
Tuesday - bullfighting & feria
Wednesday - alcazar & cathedral
Take Wed evening AVE to Madrid & stay there until Sat. Visit Prado, Palace, gardens.

GBBabe, I have checked out hotel rooms in both Madrid & Seville. In Madrid, I am pretty much set on Hotel Mario. I like that it looks fun & funky - it also got good reviews. It's $125/night which seems reasonable. It seems to be in a good location - near the Opera metro. Would that be a safe area for a solo woman traveller?

As far as Seville, you're right. That's a little harder. I found Hotel Casona de San Andres on booking.com for about $125/night also. It got pretty good reviews on tripadvisor. And I like the looks of it - moorish influence. It is near Calle Amor de Dios & Calle Jose. Again, is this a good area for solo woman?

Any advice on those hotels would be appreicated. Also, how do you buy tickets to a bullfight during Feria? I've done searches, but can't find anything. It is really fun planning! I am off to the library now to get some books on Spain for more research...can you tell I'm an over-planner?

Lolly-
We liked the hotel we stayed at in Sevilla (the Puerta de Sevilla). The rooms were small, but it was right in the center of things and we were able to walk everywhere.
I checked the rates and while they have not changed, I was shocked to see they were DOUBLE during Feria. Still, a single is 130 euro if you're interested.
As for the area near the Opera in Madrid, that should be fine. My mother and I never felt unsafe walking at night in Madrid. However, use the same precautions you would in any big city.
I can also recommend the Hotel Intur Palacio in Madrid-looks like the rates are 115-120 during your dates.
You might also consider Priceline for Madrid. We got very lucky and "won" the Westin Palace right across the street from the Prado for $130 a night I think. It was fantastic. Looks like 4 stars are significantly less too.

Thanks for the hotel info, kristina. I know, rates during Feria are definitely pricier! That's why I thought the Hotel Casona de San Andres was a good deal - it's just hard to decide based on a few reviews on tripadvisor.

I have to admit I'm kind of a chicken about Priceline - just for the fact that since I'm such an over planner, I like to choose a particular hotel for myself. But wow, that's a deal for the Westin!

As far as taking the trains to Cordoba & Madrid, would I be ok just buying them at the station? I'm not sure I want to buy them ahead of time because I don't want to be locked into a time. I'd rather go with the flow.

Train tickets....I don't know. I'd think during a holiday week, it would be best to buy in advance.

We bought our tickets on arrival in Madrid in the airport. I don't know if there is a similar office in Sevilla at the airport. You could go to the train station or travel agent however. I don't think I'd wait until the day of however.

Hi Lolly,

How exciting that you are taking the plunge!

Regarding train tickets.... You should try to get in advance. I remember when I was in Sevilla ( again, not during Feria or any major Holiday) I bought the AVE tickets the day before and my son and I had to seat separate. The train was packed!!!

I think your trip sounds great, Not a lot of days but it will give you a flavor of the cities you are visiting.

Thanks kristina & cruiseluv!

Who am I kidding - being such a planner, I'm sure I'll want to have those AVE tickets in hand before I go. I'll just have to figure out my schedule.

So work approved that week off...now nothing is holding me back from buying that airline ticket...except FEAR!

I really want to do it, but am definitely nervous about travelling alone. Especially since I don't speak any Spanish. Although I was thinking of taking a beginning Spanish class before I go. I guess it's both scary & exciting at the same time.

how about a one week course in sevilla with language, excursions and family stay?

an economical way to travel and meet people at same time, and see all the important sights guided by an expert.

That's an interesting thought, lincasanova. Where do I find more info?

Lolly-
Get some beginner's Spanish Language CDs and listen in your car on the way to work. if you take public transportation, then listen on an ipod or something.
Spanish is one of the easier languages to pick up IMHO.
I honestly don't know if you will be able to buy your train tix in advance without paying a premium to a 3rd party service. Unless things have changed, I could not figure out how to do it when we went.

-Lockers were available Cordoba Stationa acouple of years ago. Presume still there.
-I'd book all train tickets as soon as I arrived. I happened to hit one Mothers Day and had to upgrade to get the schedule needed.
-Re schools: I did precisely what was suggested a few years ago. I wanted to be in Seville during Semana Santa and rates were high and availability low. I signed up for classes at "Lenguaviva" and they found me a studio in Santa Cruz on Plaza Invaledades. Fantastic. Just google "Spanish schools Seville" and you find plenty of options.

i have found spain to be very safe for lone travelers, a long as you remember the basics for any travel, don't keep all money/credit cards on you or at least in the same place on your person. the feria's are notorious for bringing out the pickpocketers. if you will use your atm, which is fine/easy there, you will need to change your pass to 4 digits only! don't worry about not speaking spanish, you will get by with a phrase book, the spanish are very accomodating. do get your hotel/ave tix asap, Sevilla will be crazy packed! don't forget to prepare yourself for their schedule. most importantly, enjoy yourself and try everything! (a little tip from azureva.com "Though the casetas are often private parties, and it is difficult for tourists to get an invitation, it's in the alleys between the casetas that the real party happens. The flamenco rhythms whip the crowd into a frenzy of dance and good times. Don't be afraid to join in. You'll see. It won't be long before someone grabs your hand and you're dancing with the rest of them! "

Junknira, Your last sentence is making me look forward to our trip too. Of course, I am referring to the excitement. As a married man, my hands usually are either in my wife's hands or in my pockets where it can be hard to reach'em unless someone is trying to pick my pockets!

junknira is getting me excited about Spain too! I have read that Feria isn't really a tourist event since the casetas are mostly private, but I think it will be fun to be there during so much excitement.

Still trying to figure out a hotel. The Casona de San Andres is in between the El Centro & Macarena areas. Is this a safe place for a solo woman?

Comfyshoes, since you are also going during Feria - do you have any tips on reasonable lodging ($125 or less per night for a single?). Also, have you looked into getting tix for a bullfight?

i have a colleague who does fun courses down in sevilla with cooking or flamenco classes, etc.,etc. and he says the people have a ball. it is a family stay so you are practicing everyday, along with the lessons.

has a lot of japanese going.
email me at my screeen [email protected] and i will send you his address.(don´t have it right now anyway!)

Lolly, sorry for going missing a couple days....but I think your plan to limit your trip to Madrid and Seville is excellent. I think you'd need at least 2 days to see Madrid and I would absolutely try to get to Cordoba from Seville and Toledo from Madrid. I liked Madrid a lot but I am really a museum person, so I spent quite a bit of my time in the city in the museums near the hotel. Over time, I've realized that I liked Seville more than either Barcelona or Madrid, but I'd go back to both Seville and Madrid. I think spending time during the festival in Seville will be wonderful.

If you find you've overbudgeted your time in Madrid, definitely shoot for Toledo. It was magical for me and a nice place to walk (and shop!). If I had it to do over, I'd skip Segovia and Avila and spend more time in Madrid. I could have used more than 2 full days there.

As for buying train tickets, you can do it at any of the El Corte Ingles department stores (they have a travel agency), I did that a couple times. I was always near one it seemed and it was a minor surcharge for them to do it for me. But I bought my tickets to Toledo in Madrid at the station itself and the agents were easy to work with. I think you'd just get stuck in a line if you were there during rush hours.

I don't think you need too much time in Cordoba. I think I spent about 3 hours at the Mezquita. Stopping en route to Madrid is probably a great idea. I can't remember seeing lockers, but I read somewhere (Rick Steves, I think) that they have them there.

if you plan to go during feria i would get your train tikcets ASAP. trains do sell out for holiday periods.

Lolly100, I am staying at a Hilton resort within an hour or so of Seville for a week where I own a timeshare so my stay is, well, free until year-end when the taxes etc are due.

Haven't found a way to get tickets for bull fights because haven't thought about it. If you have pointers, I would welcome and very much appreciate them.

amyb, you are fantastic! You already answered my next questions before I even asked them.

I was wondering how long I'd want in Cordoba...so it sounds like if I stop there for the afternoon on my way to Madrid, that would be good.

Also thanks for the tip on where to buy the train tickets. I'll be sure to purchase them as soon as I arrive, just in case.

I'm really happy & excited about my itinerary! I know it will be a quick trip, but I think it will give me a great taste of Spain without feeling too rushed.

Now I'm on to the hotel search. I did book a room at the Casona de San Andres in Seville for now - I got a pretty good rate - about $110 per night - which seems like a steal during Feria. I'd still like more feedback on this hotel from others though - any familiar with it?

In Madrid, I'm leaning towards the Room Mate Mario. The style really appeals to me - it's about $125/night - but I'm confused because the only way I've seen to book it online is to pre-pay & I don't really want to do that.

comfyshoes, how nice you have a place to stay! As far as the bullfights, it sounds like you have to wait to get your tickets there - you can't do it online. But during Feria, there is a fight every afternoon. I think that will be quite an experience! I'll let you know if I find out any other details...

Lolly, Yes, I am very lucky in this and a number of other aspects in life, and plan to relish this trip as well as many other things I reach out, touch, and do, both before and after.

Regarding bullfights in Sevilla, here is a website that lists couple numbers which I have yet to try:

http://gospain.about.com/od/bullfigh...lebullfigh.htm

I plan to call them in due course and will post here what they tell me.

Not to complicate your planning, but I thought a number of things in Cordoba in addition to the Mezquita (which is a must, IMHO!) were well worth seeing. For example, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos has lovely gardens and the glimpses of courtyards and gardens throughout the old city and Juderia were quite memorable and made strolling around a delight. I hope you enjoy your trip to Spain as much as I did!

Thanks for the extra info on Cordoba, kja. I was looking at the AVE trains schedules. If I take a train from Seville to Cordoba that arrives at 11:45am, and then buy a ticket from Cordoba to my next stop Madrid that departs at 4:45pm - would that give me enough time to hit the highlights there? Or should I allow for more time?

Comfyshoes, find out any info on bullfights, other festivities during Feria?

So I was really happy with my itinerary of 3 nights in Seville, then taking the AVE train to Madrid for 3 nights and stopping at Cordoba on the way.... UNTIL I kept reading posts on Fodors that rave about Granada. It seems like the Alhambra is overwhelmingly a favorite destination of those who have travelled in Spain. I would love to see it, but just can't think of a way to squeeze it in. What do you guys think?

I'm a great fan of Granada and the Alhambra, but you can't do everything in one week! You could stop there, but to do so, you would have to spend less time in your other wonderful destinations. So you need to think through your priorities, and remember that you will be seeing and doing wonderful things with any plan!

kja, you're right. i want to see everything in Spain, but obviously i don't have time for it all. skipping granada this time will just give me an excuse to go back!

so regarding Cordoba, how long should i spend there on way from Seville to Madrid? i was thinking of stopping for 5 hours or so - will this be enough for the mezquita, or will i feel completely rushed?

from the advice i've received here, it sounds like i should buy my tickets for the AVE ahead of time since i will be there during Feria & it will be crowded.

it also sounds like if i buy online, then i just pick up at the train station using my credit card?

Hi Lolly100

Your trip sounds great! I was semi-solo in Spain last year (I have a friend in Madrid, but he had to work a lot of the time, so I spent most days on my own) and felt very comfortable.

I know you are planning on the Prado. If you like art, don't miss the Reina Sofia, at least for Picasso's Guernica, and the Thyssen B...(can't ever quite spell it) for, in my opinion, a lovely collection.

Personally, after seeing the Palacio Real on a previous trip, last trip I had a great lunch in the elegant cafe across the square and just looked at it. Not my favorite palace on the inside, but nice to look at with wine in hand.

I loved shopping in Madrid and I am not a big shopper! I thought the clothes and shoes were cute and well-priced. I also found el Corte Ingles great for small last minute gifts of soap, etc. for friends at home.

The Retiro is nice to walk through.

The nightlife in Madrid is late and great! I did have said friend to take me around, but I felt fine alone in tapas bars and walking around lively pedestrian areas.

By the way, I found a post here on Fodor's that recommended an evening wine walk in Madrid that sounded fun, especially if you are solo.

Thanks so much for the advice on Madrid, annabelle2. I really appreciate it! I'm definitely getting excited for my trip - 1 more month. The tapas walk is a great idea! I'll have to do a search on here to find that post.

The only thing I'm still trying to figure out is how long to spend in Cordoba. I'm stopping there on my way from Seville to Mardrid. I'd like to buy my train tickets before I leave - since I'm there during Feria & it will be busy. Just not sure how many hours to allot for the Mezquita.

Lolly, in November I was in the Mezquita for at least 2 hours. I did the audio tour plus read whatever guidebook I had with me at the time, and sat for a bit and contemplated what I was seeing. That was with practically no crowd at all. Hope this helps you budget your time. I'd book a later train than you think you need and either eat or wander around the area nearby until it was time to head back to the train.

Hi, Lolly100. Your idea of 5 hours in Cordoba seems like a good one to me. I agree that 2 hours is about right for the Mezquita. As I recall, the train station is some distance away, so leave time for a taxi ride in both directions. With 5 hours in Cordoba, you would still have time to stroll through some of the old streets near the Mezquita, where you are encouraged to peek into people's lovely little courtyards, or to visit the gardens of the nearby Alcazar - and you would still have time for coffee (or whatever) if you want to take a break. Hope that helps!

Thanks so much, amyb & kja for the advice on Cordoba. I think I've decided to book the AVE train & arrive in Cordoba at 10:45am, and then depart at 4:45pm. I think I'd rather have time to spare than feel rushed. Plus I'm going to have to put my luggage in the storage lockers - and I'm sure it will take me some time for me to figure that out! That way I'll arrive in Madrid at 6:30pm - early enough to still enjoy the evening there.

What is the difference between tourist, first & club class on the AVE? Is it worth the extra money?

thanks again for your help, everyone. especially amyb - your trip report has been really helpful. i'm realy hoping to make it to Toledo from Madrid. even if i only go for a few hours, i'd like to get a taste of it. but with Toledo, i figure don't need to buy bus/train tickets in advance. it seems like there are plenty of ways to get there.

Lolly100
Here is the site for the wine walk of Madrid:
www.walksofspain.com

I didn't end up doing one, but it was recommended here at fodor's and sounds fun and interesting.

As you mention, it is easy to do a day trip from Madrid to Toledo and well worth it.

On my last trip, which was 2005, I did it by bus. I know the direct train is the newer option, so I can't comment on that, but even the bus was easy.

I took the metro from Atocha to the main bus depot and caught my direct bus to Toledo there (or you could take a taxi instead of the subway).

The trip was not long at all -- I am thinking about an hour?

The only slight inconvenience was that you must take a short city bus up the hill from the bus depot to get into old/historic Toledo. You get off at the central plaza and can walk through the meandering streets to all the main sites from there.

Oh, I meant to mention that I recently read about Room Mate Mario (your Madrid hotel) in an old Budget Travel magazine...I was trying to remember where I had heard about it, and I realized just a few minutes ago it was here on your thread.

Can you let us know how you liked it?
Thanks!

Thanks for the advice, annabelle2. I might check out the tapas walk, and I'm hoping to make a trip to Toledo if I can spare some time from Madrid.

I've received such great help on this board, I'll definitely post a trip report when I return.

My trip is just a few weeks away... Any final thoughts for Madrid/Seville/Cordoba? I'm getting very excited!