Piccolina

Yes, so many great restaurants to try in San Sebastian! Would you recommend using San Sebastian or Bilbao as a base (to avoid moving hotels)? And what is the minimum # of days you would recommend for this? I might only have 3 days plus the 4.5 hour bus ride each way from Madrid. Thanks again!

kimhe

I have lived in San Sebastián, and it's my favourite city on the planet. But it depends on what you like. San Sebastián is beautiful, Belle Epoque charm and some of the finest city beaches in Europe. Bilbao is also a fabulous city, a former industrial center with more energy. Be sure to visit both towns, they are very different.

Spend at least three days up here, and I can almost guarantee that you want to come back.

Sandramiani

There are tons of places to keep your interest in Spain, the food changes from region to region and its never boring. I cannot say the same for Portugal - the food is very lacking in taste and preparation and the place itself is uninteresting. If you feel like you MUST go there, keep it as short as you can.

Piccolina

Why does it say comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators?

Thanks Kimhe and Sandramiani. Being the foodie that I am, I think I'm leaning towards making San Sebastian as my base for 5 nights so we can go to the Michelin* restaurants for dinners (i've now re-jigged my itinerary to reduce time in Madrid to make San Sebastian into a 5 night stay).

Some logistical questions that I could use some help on:

1. Planning to take the overnight train from Madrid to Lisbon, which means getting from San Sebastian to Madrid on the bus, then go to Madrid train station for the overnight train. If the bus arrives from San Sebastian in Madrid at 20:00 while the overnight train departs from 22:20 - is this enough time after factoring in potential delays with the bus and going from Ave. de America (bus stop) to the train station?

2. Does Alsa ever cancel buses last minute if they're not full? To make the above connection, we need to be o the 15:00 bus departing San Sebastian (15:99)for Madrid (20:00 arrival). Are Alsa buses usually on schedule??

3. Can Ronda be done as a day trip from Seville? Or is it better to go from Seville to Ronda to Granada as overnight bases?

Thanks so much.

kimhe

Have travelled very much long distance bus in Spain for more than twenty years, and I can remember only once experiencing more than a few minutes delays, and that was because of unusual traffic jam. I would have no problem with arriving time in Avda de America at 8 and a train from either Chamartín or Atocha at 10.20.

Alsa bus company is dead serious.

Ronda would be very stressful as a day trip from Sevilla.

Piccolina

Kimhe - I'm so grateful to have found you on this forum! Your advice has been invaluable. Thanks again.

Would you say an arrival at 21:00 in Avda de America for a 22:20 train from either Chamartin or Atocha is cutting it too tight?

Piccolina

Kimhe - btw, I think I lost part of your thread posted 24 Feb at 11:59pm as it says it has been removed by the moderators.

kimhe

He-he, must be someone elses comment, nothing missing from my post 24 Feb at 11:59pm

A taxi from the bus station in Avda de América to Atocha or Chamartín would both be about 10-15 mins and 10€.

Piccolina

Thanks again Kimhe. If you have suggestions on food / restaurants for San Sebastian, Bilbao and along the northern coast, please send them my way! I've always wanted to go to Arzak - have you been?

kimhe

I don't usually go to Michelin star restaurants, but my two visits to Arzak (in 1996 and 2005) I will never forget.

Restaurante Urola is my favourite in town since 1987 for a traditional meal with an innovative touch. Beti-Jai is also excellent, and I had a fabulous meal at La Muralla to years ago. All are in the Parte vieja/Old town, and there are loads of other fabulous places that are much more affordable than the Michelin restaurants.

You can't do much wrong when going for pintxos either. Some of my favourites in the Parte vieja are Goiz-Argi (the best shrimp-skewers), Txepetxa (anchovies heaven and an institution in the city), gourmet pintxos at Zeruko and Cuchara de San Telmo, fabulous Astelehena in the corner of the main plaza and traditional La Cepa. But again, you can't do much wrong and much of the fun is just to take things as they come and don't make too many plans. And some of the best places in town are in the Gros district across the river (Bar Bergara, Raimuntxo, El Lagar, traditional Bodega Donostiarra etc.). Here are info and suggested routes: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

Bilbao is almost as crazy as San Sebastián when it comes to food. Casco viejo/old town is a good starting point. Check out Mikel's blog, he's a local: http://mugalari.wordpress.com/2010/0...ably-never-go/

I had the meal of my life in the small fishing village Getaria close to San Sebastián back in 1996. Something like this:
http://thepauperedchef.com/2007/12/elkano-in-getar.html

Piccolina

Thanks Kimhe! I need to go on a big diet before I leave to make room for all the food. And this meal at the fishing village looks divine - thanks for all the tips.

Piccolina

Instead of flying into Madrid and then taking the train to Seville, my travel plans would allow me to fly into Malaga. So for the first week in Spain after arrival to Malaga, I would do the following:

Malaga to Ronda to Seville to Granada to Madrid

- hopefully can get on a bus right away from Malaga airport to go to Ronda. If not, will stay overnight in Malaga and proceed to Ronda the next day.
- For Granada to Madrid bus ride: do we need to reserve tickets in advance? Advance as in a few days or a few weeks?
- I'll also need bus tickets to/from Madrid - San Sebastian. Do these tickets need advance reservation too?

Thanks for the tips - i'm a newbie to the spain bus system!

kimhe

Málaga city definitely deserves a night or two before going to spectacular but more touristy Ronda. A chance to experience genuine Andalusian atmosphere, excellent tapas bars, cafés, and perhaps the most easy-going people in all of Andalucía.

Within three hundred meters in the center, you'll find the recently excavated Roman theater, the 8-11th century Moorish Alcazaba (much older than Alhambra in Granada), the great 16th century Cathedral and both Picasso's birth-place and the new Picasso museum (2003).
"Málaga: Authentic charm of an overlooked treasure"
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/ci...-treasure.html

About Málaga in Andalucía Magazine:
http://www.andalucia.com/magazine/en...ed2/malaga.htm

If you decide to spend a day or two in Málaga, I can give you some tips on where to stay in the middle of everything, excellent tapas bars, restaurants etc.

Piccolina

Another great city in Spain to add into my itinerary! This country keeps getting better and better. But now the question is how to fit everything in? Do you think Ronda is a must-see? I'm not sure how to fit in Malaga, Seville (incl Cordoba), Ronda AND Granada and still make it back to Madrid on day 7 morning (to meet another friend - which is not flexible). But I think I have to cut out Ronda or another place if I add in Malaga. Right now, Granada cannot be slotted in!! ronda or granada or malaga??

Day 1 - Arrive in Malaga in evening
Day 2 - Malaga / Travel to Ronda early evening (overnight in Ronda)
Day 3 - Ronda
Day 4 - Seville
Day 5 - Seville (day trip to Cordoba)
Day 6 - Seville

< this schedule would leave no time for Granada! Ronda or Granada?>

Day 7 - Leave from <blank> in the morning for Madrid

kimhe

Hm, I think you at least should spend the evening and early morning in Málaga before going to Ronda. I wouldn't advise to cut out neither Ronda nor Granada, these places are considered must-sees by most visitors.

If you stay in Málaga for the night, I can recommend Don Curro as a good value hotel in the middle of everything.
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/mala...ncurro.en.html

Have some typical Málaga wine at old and traditional Antigua Casa de Guardia close to the hotel. http://www.antiguacasadeguardia.net/

I can recommend the fabulous tapas at El Tapeo de Cervantes:
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalusia.html

Next morning, perhaps a coffee or chocolate con churros at legendary Casa Aranda, one of the best cafés I've ever been to. http://www.casa-aranda.net/

CathyM

with only 6 days I'd spend 4 in Sevilla and 2 in Granada. As much as I like Malaga and Ronda, Granada is fabulous particularly for first time visitor to Spain. At the least I'd spend my first night in Malaga, then 1-2 nights in Granada and 3-4 in Sevilla.

Piccolina

Perhaps I can try to squeeze in an extra day to make it into a 7 day trip for this part of spain!

Kimhe - thank you AGAIN for the lovely recommendations!

Do I need to book WAY in advance for the Granada-Madrid or Madrid-SS buses? Or is it ok to buy the tickets when I arrive (not a few hours before departure, but maybe a day or two in advance?). Thank you!!

CathyM

You don't need to purchase the bus tickets in advance. You'll be fine buying on arrival in town.

Piccolina

Initially, I was thinking of taking the bus from SS to Madrid, and then hoping on the overnight train from Madrid to Lisbon. I haven't been able to find a direct flight from SS or Bilbao to Lisbon - does anyone know of a direct route? Or have other suggestions on how to get from SS/Bilbao to Lisbon without detouring back to Madrid?

Many thanks

kimhe

Spanair has two daily direct flights from Bilbao to Lisboa. 1h 40mins. http://www.spanair.com/web/en-gb/