Spa enthusiasts: Spa, Belgium vs. Baden-Baden, Germany
Aug 2nd, 2005, 05:38 AM
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Spa enthusiasts: Spa, Belgium vs. Baden-Baden, Germany
Planning a spur-of-the-moment 3 day getaway for next week, a girfriend and I want to "get away from it all" and enjoy some thermal baths, maybe a little pampering, and just hanging out enjoying each other's company. We are only an hour and a half from Spa, Belgium, but it seems like the 4.5 hours to Baden-Baden may be worth it. We're on a bit of a budget so won't be able to partake in the "real" luxury, but want an enjoyable holiday anyway. Has anyone been to both of these places? Preferences? Major differences? Thanks in advance
Carrie
Carrie
Aug 2nd, 2005, 05:54 AM
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We've driven (or taken the train) from Brussels to Baden-Baden many, many times--we have family there plus it's one of our favorite relaxing spots. We've only been to Spa twice and haven't stayed there, but of the two, we much preferred Baden-Baden.
What is your budget? If you look on www.sofitel.com check for the specials at the 5 star Dorint in BB. They run some excellent week-end deals...we've stayed there for as little as 159 euros per night double including breakfast AND use of the very good spa facilities (treatments like facials or massages are extra, but reasonably priced).
The few times we didn't stay at the Dorint, we stayed at the Quellenhof Hotel, which is a very short walk from the lovely Caracalla spa. Doubles with breakfast at the Quellenhof (nice, comfortable rooms, many with balconies overlooking the attractive, tree-lined Sophienstrasse) run about 130 euros. However, the Caracalla spa costs about another 15 euros per person, so it's really not much cheaper than the luxurious Dorint if you book a special rate (and the spa there will be much quieter and you won't have to wait in line to get in, as you may have to do on week-ends at Caracalla).
There are many good restaurants in Baden-Baden and one of our favorite spots is the most inexpensive...it's a small place that serves primarily chicken dishes...all homemade and all very tasty. It's also a hangout for a bunch of local yahtzee addicts.
Although Spa is trying to recover its former glory, it still strikes us as a bit dowdy. BB is much more elegant.
For a truly relaxing trip, take the train instead of driving...go via Thalys, ICE or regular train to Koln and change to an ICE that takes you to BB (technically, it goes into Baden Oos, which is a short hop from BB by taxi or bus).
Another option is the 5 star Dorint/Sofitel Quellenhof in Aachen, an elegant spa hotel next to the casino and park. It also runs good specials on the sofitel.com web site. Easy to reach by car or train and a short walk from the old town.
What is your budget? If you look on www.sofitel.com check for the specials at the 5 star Dorint in BB. They run some excellent week-end deals...we've stayed there for as little as 159 euros per night double including breakfast AND use of the very good spa facilities (treatments like facials or massages are extra, but reasonably priced).
The few times we didn't stay at the Dorint, we stayed at the Quellenhof Hotel, which is a very short walk from the lovely Caracalla spa. Doubles with breakfast at the Quellenhof (nice, comfortable rooms, many with balconies overlooking the attractive, tree-lined Sophienstrasse) run about 130 euros. However, the Caracalla spa costs about another 15 euros per person, so it's really not much cheaper than the luxurious Dorint if you book a special rate (and the spa there will be much quieter and you won't have to wait in line to get in, as you may have to do on week-ends at Caracalla).
There are many good restaurants in Baden-Baden and one of our favorite spots is the most inexpensive...it's a small place that serves primarily chicken dishes...all homemade and all very tasty. It's also a hangout for a bunch of local yahtzee addicts.
Although Spa is trying to recover its former glory, it still strikes us as a bit dowdy. BB is much more elegant.
For a truly relaxing trip, take the train instead of driving...go via Thalys, ICE or regular train to Koln and change to an ICE that takes you to BB (technically, it goes into Baden Oos, which is a short hop from BB by taxi or bus).
Another option is the 5 star Dorint/Sofitel Quellenhof in Aachen, an elegant spa hotel next to the casino and park. It also runs good specials on the sofitel.com web site. Easy to reach by car or train and a short walk from the old town.
Aug 2nd, 2005, 06:10 AM
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Carrie, I did some quick checking on sofitel.com for next weekend (staying the 12th and 13th). The Dorint in BB has a "hot deal" rate of 148 euros per night *including* breakfast (and it's a very good breakfast buffet. That is an EXCELLENT deal since that also includes the spa facilities (meaning you can just throw your bathrobes over your bathing suits and walk from your room down to the spa).
The Dorint/Sofitel Quellenhof spa hotel in Aachen has a similar hot deal for 135 euros per night, including breakfast. But I would say go, go, go for the Dorint BB. Take the train for a completely stress free trip (it's not much longer than driving).
The Dorint/Sofitel Quellenhof spa hotel in Aachen has a similar hot deal for 135 euros per night, including breakfast. But I would say go, go, go for the Dorint BB. Take the train for a completely stress free trip (it's not much longer than driving).
Aug 2nd, 2005, 06:30 AM
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Thanks for the scoop! Here are the other deals I found...
2 nights in a double room at the Quellenhof for 190 Euros
2 nights in Double room at the Hotel Colmar, including 1 admission per person to the casino and 1 admission per person to the Caracalla baths for 220 Euros. Read good things about the Colmar on one of the travel websites, any experience? Can get the rooms without the casino and bath tickets for the same price as the Quellenhof.
Is the Dorint really worth the extra 50 euros per night? (well, like you said the extra 30 Euros per night, I guess compared to the package including the baths....) I don't mind splurging, but my companion is a poor college student and I want to get the best balance of posh/inexpensive as possible
2 nights in a double room at the Quellenhof for 190 Euros
2 nights in Double room at the Hotel Colmar, including 1 admission per person to the casino and 1 admission per person to the Caracalla baths for 220 Euros. Read good things about the Colmar on one of the travel websites, any experience? Can get the rooms without the casino and bath tickets for the same price as the Quellenhof.
Is the Dorint really worth the extra 50 euros per night? (well, like you said the extra 30 Euros per night, I guess compared to the package including the baths....) I don't mind splurging, but my companion is a poor college student and I want to get the best balance of posh/inexpensive as possible
Aug 2nd, 2005, 06:47 AM
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Sorry, I have no experience with the Hotel Colmar. A couple of questions though: which part of the casino...the upper part (FYI, you need to bring your passport to go to that and they do have a dress code) or the lower part (with the slot machines, video poker, etc.)? That only costs 1 euro to enter (don't need your passport for that as I recall and there's no dress code).
You might find the Dorint worth it if you were going to go to the spa more than once. I would be afraid the Caracalla spa would be too crowded on a week-end (or maybe not, I know it gets very crowded winter week-ends, have no idea what summer week-ends are like at the spa since we stay at the Dorint). If you were only going to go to the spa once, then I would say go with the Quellenhof (as I have no opinion on the Colmar).
There are plenty of other things to do in BB...there are usually (free) concerts in the arcaded/park area in front of the casino, the city park is nice to wander in, there is a new modern art museum, and you can explore the old schloss (in ruins, but still interesting, with good hikes around it).
By the way, if you decide to take in the Roman/Irish baths, remember it's a coed nude spa. The Caracalla is a bathing suit spa, although I think it has a nude bathing section.
Be sure to have pastries at the Beeg pastry shop near Caracalla (on the pedestrian street behind the Quellenhof). Yum!
If you drive, the Quellenhof has parking, but the spaces are limited and you should reserve one with your room. To get into the center of town via car, once you get to the BB area, follow the "thermen" signs. Parking at the Quellenhof is just past the hotel entrance (coming down the hill towards the center of BB), drive past the front door and take the first right down a tiny street--the garage is about 20 feet in on your right hand side. I forget whether the Quellenhof charges for parking; I know the Dorint does.
Have a great week-end!
You might find the Dorint worth it if you were going to go to the spa more than once. I would be afraid the Caracalla spa would be too crowded on a week-end (or maybe not, I know it gets very crowded winter week-ends, have no idea what summer week-ends are like at the spa since we stay at the Dorint). If you were only going to go to the spa once, then I would say go with the Quellenhof (as I have no opinion on the Colmar).
There are plenty of other things to do in BB...there are usually (free) concerts in the arcaded/park area in front of the casino, the city park is nice to wander in, there is a new modern art museum, and you can explore the old schloss (in ruins, but still interesting, with good hikes around it).
By the way, if you decide to take in the Roman/Irish baths, remember it's a coed nude spa. The Caracalla is a bathing suit spa, although I think it has a nude bathing section.
Be sure to have pastries at the Beeg pastry shop near Caracalla (on the pedestrian street behind the Quellenhof). Yum!
If you drive, the Quellenhof has parking, but the spaces are limited and you should reserve one with your room. To get into the center of town via car, once you get to the BB area, follow the "thermen" signs. Parking at the Quellenhof is just past the hotel entrance (coming down the hill towards the center of BB), drive past the front door and take the first right down a tiny street--the garage is about 20 feet in on your right hand side. I forget whether the Quellenhof charges for parking; I know the Dorint does.
Have a great week-end!
Aug 2nd, 2005, 01:50 PM
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BTilke: Could you give me some more details on the spa facilities at the Dorint? We've decided to go from Tuesday to Friday, so hopefully crowds won't be as much of a problem. If the spa at Dorint is as neat/snazzy/cool as the Caracalla, it might be worth it to splurge on the fancy schmancy hotel and forego a day at the Caracalla or the other one (haven't decided if my modesty will be able to be overcome enough to brave the Roman bath...)
Aug 2nd, 2005, 02:10 PM
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Short answer: no, the Dorint's spa isn't as large as Caracalla. It is, after all, a hotel spa. OTOH, it's much less crowded and is more relaxed...you can just wander down from your room.
It's a very attractively decorated spa. There is a largish pool (for relaxing, this is not for swimming laps. To the side of the main pool is a large whirlpool area. Soothing lights, splashing water, attractive frescoes, etc. There is also a juice/drinks bar. Above the pool is a balconied area with dim lightin full of divans for reclining and relaxing. VERY soothing...I took a nap there the last time and it was probably the most restful doze I've had in years. There is fitness equipment as well, but we don't use that (we belong to a large health club at home).
The treatment areas (facials, massages) are elegant and contemporary. My mother had a back massage there and I had a reflexology treatment (foot massage). High marks for both. Did you look at the spa pictures on the Sofitel.com web site? (Choose Baden-Baden, then click on information about the hotel, then click on sports and leisure, then click on the little camera icon under the main photo).
Caracalla is a gorgeous spa though, with striking design. If you stay at the Dorint and then walk past Caracalla, you may wish you had gone there just for the experience.
It's really a toss-up. I'm glad I went to Caracalla once to try it, but now I prefer with the serenity of the Dorint. (Although once there were some very noisy, bratty British kids in the spa pool at the Dorint and they totally killed the mood...eventually the hotel staff came and spoke to them rather sharpish and they toned it down a bit, but if you have a similar experience, you will REALLY wish you'd gone for Caracalla!)
It's a very attractively decorated spa. There is a largish pool (for relaxing, this is not for swimming laps. To the side of the main pool is a large whirlpool area. Soothing lights, splashing water, attractive frescoes, etc. There is also a juice/drinks bar. Above the pool is a balconied area with dim lightin full of divans for reclining and relaxing. VERY soothing...I took a nap there the last time and it was probably the most restful doze I've had in years. There is fitness equipment as well, but we don't use that (we belong to a large health club at home).
The treatment areas (facials, massages) are elegant and contemporary. My mother had a back massage there and I had a reflexology treatment (foot massage). High marks for both. Did you look at the spa pictures on the Sofitel.com web site? (Choose Baden-Baden, then click on information about the hotel, then click on sports and leisure, then click on the little camera icon under the main photo).
Caracalla is a gorgeous spa though, with striking design. If you stay at the Dorint and then walk past Caracalla, you may wish you had gone there just for the experience.
It's really a toss-up. I'm glad I went to Caracalla once to try it, but now I prefer with the serenity of the Dorint. (Although once there were some very noisy, bratty British kids in the spa pool at the Dorint and they totally killed the mood...eventually the hotel staff came and spoke to them rather sharpish and they toned it down a bit, but if you have a similar experience, you will REALLY wish you'd gone for Caracalla!)
Aug 2nd, 2005, 02:16 PM
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Thinking it over, you will probably be happier staying elsewhere and trying Caracalla on this trip. You can always do the Dorint on some future occasion (with your husband perhaps). Once you see Caracalla, you will want to give it a whirl.
Aug 2nd, 2005, 03:12 PM
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well, I *had* just about decided to splurge on the dorint + 1 day at Caracalla, until I realized how (*@# expensive the train was going to be! (about 120 Euros round trip per person) I guess it makes sense, Koln is not exactly close to Baden-Baden, but for some reason i had it in my head that the thalys to Koln would be the more expensive part of that trip...looks like the Quellenhof for us! But I really think the dorint sounds nice; like you said, maybe a weekend getaway with DH...
Aug 2nd, 2005, 03:33 PM
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one more question; I've never taken the train in Germany before. Do I need to somehow buy my tickets from Koln to BaBa in advance or can I just buy them at the Koln station, or on the train?
Aug 3rd, 2005, 05:03 AM
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Either way...when I lived in Brussels, I used to go down to Gare du Midi and buy my tickets for the whole journey there. One caveat: don't pick connections with less than 15 minutes between them (that is, give yourself at least 20 minutes between the train arrival in Koln and departure for BB and vice versa).
You might as well buy the tickets all at once...why stand in line twice?
The www.bahn.de web site will give you all the train travel help you need...but to avoid short connection times, I check point to point with them, meaning first I look at the trains going from Brussels to Koln, then do a separate search for trains from Koln to BB, then take printouts of the trains I want with me to the Gare du Midi. The last time I used the site to plan the entire route at one go, I had only 9 minutes between trains going to BB and only 6 minutes between trains going back. The train from BB to Koln was late and I missed my connection. (Actually, I've ridden a lot of trains in Germany that arrived late, esp. ICE trains for some reason. The most reliable were the little s-bahn trains.)
While you are in BB, why don't you wander over to the Dorint and ask to see the spa? Then you can decide for yourself if it's worth a future stay.
You might as well buy the tickets all at once...why stand in line twice?
The www.bahn.de web site will give you all the train travel help you need...but to avoid short connection times, I check point to point with them, meaning first I look at the trains going from Brussels to Koln, then do a separate search for trains from Koln to BB, then take printouts of the trains I want with me to the Gare du Midi. The last time I used the site to plan the entire route at one go, I had only 9 minutes between trains going to BB and only 6 minutes between trains going back. The train from BB to Koln was late and I missed my connection. (Actually, I've ridden a lot of trains in Germany that arrived late, esp. ICE trains for some reason. The most reliable were the little s-bahn trains.)
While you are in BB, why don't you wander over to the Dorint and ask to see the spa? Then you can decide for yourself if it's worth a future stay.
Aug 3rd, 2005, 05:25 AM
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By the way, the inexpensive chicken restaurant is called Gockelstub and is on Kreuzstrasse. Everything homemade, traditional but casual decor, 100 times better than Hector's! A local hangout, good beer on tap (from Ulm, I think).
For something more formal, the Kurhaus restaurant next to the casino is very good. Behind the Quellenhof on the little pedestrian street is Cafe Beeg, fabulous pastries. Also on that street near the hotel is a little Italian place; good risotto. The owners speak English, they lived in Boston for a while.
If you take the train to BB, get off in Baden Oos (there is no train stationin BB itself), catch the bus to BB (just over 1 euro); after the bus passes the casino it will turn left and get off near the big round circular sculpture/fountain. The Sophienstrsse starts right there. The hotel is a short walk (about 3 minutes) up Sophienstrasse on your left hand side. Or take a taxi...I think it's about 10-12 euros from the train station to the hotel.
Next to the breakfast room the hotel has (or had) a computer with free Internet access for hotel guests.
For something more formal, the Kurhaus restaurant next to the casino is very good. Behind the Quellenhof on the little pedestrian street is Cafe Beeg, fabulous pastries. Also on that street near the hotel is a little Italian place; good risotto. The owners speak English, they lived in Boston for a while.
If you take the train to BB, get off in Baden Oos (there is no train stationin BB itself), catch the bus to BB (just over 1 euro); after the bus passes the casino it will turn left and get off near the big round circular sculpture/fountain. The Sophienstrsse starts right there. The hotel is a short walk (about 3 minutes) up Sophienstrasse on your left hand side. Or take a taxi...I think it's about 10-12 euros from the train station to the hotel.
Next to the breakfast room the hotel has (or had) a computer with free Internet access for hotel guests.
Aug 3rd, 2005, 02:29 PM
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I agree that Baden-Baden has more to offer than Spa. On the other hand, if you for the spa treatment, and to save money on transportation, you can as well go to Spa (Belgium), stay in the luxury Radisson SAS Palace or the Dorint Spa Balmoral and go for treatment to Les Thermes de Spa. They offer every kind of wellness/beauty treatment you can think of. The Dorint used to have a free shuttle to Les Thermes.
Aug 4th, 2005, 01:09 PM
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Thanks so much for all the advice. We booked a room at the Quellenhof. Unfortunately, my travel partner balked at the cost of the train tickets, so we'll be driving. But it will give us a bit of an opporunity to explore on our way down and back. Really excited about this relaxing break!! I'll let you know how we get along.
Aug 16th, 2005, 02:00 PM
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Thanks everyone for all their advice. We had a great time in B-B, and the Quellenhof was a good deal for the money. Very clean, well-appointed room, good breakfast, all the staff was very nice. And excellent location, very close to the thermes but not too far from the shopping/dining areas either. The casino was beautiful inside but disappointingly small. We took the cogwheel train up to the top of "Mount Merkur" and it was wonderful; beautiful views of the valley and a great opportunity to watch paragliders in action We took a bottle of wine and a blanket and spent the early evening talking and watching the sunset. They also have a little cafe/restaurant up there but it seemed to close around 6 or 7.
We also went to the Dorint and got a massage in their spa. The hotel is sooo cushy and plushy, definitely worth a trip back if we feel like "acting rich" The spa seemed nice as well.
I was very nervous about doing the Friedrichsbad but it was one of the highlights of the trip!
We took a bottle of wine and a blanket and spent the early evening talking and watching the sunset. They also have a little cafe/restaurant up there but it seemed to close around 6 or 7.We also went to the Dorint and got a massage in their spa. The hotel is sooo cushy and plushy, definitely worth a trip back if we feel like "acting rich" The spa seemed nice as well.
I was very nervous about doing the Friedrichsbad but it was one of the highlights of the trip!
Jul 21st, 2006, 05:22 AM
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Just an update: the Quellenhof does not have AC in its guest rooms, only in the public rooms. So on a hot week-end like this one, it's no wonder that plenty of rooms at the Quellenhof can be found for 75€ while the Dorint/Sofitel (with airco in its rooms) has only a few rooms left with prices starting at 212€.
