Piccolina

We're leaving for southern tuscany for a one week stay near Pienza (starting on a saturday) in a few weeks and could really use some help with our itinerary planning.

We love to eat good local food, soak up the local culture, visit small tuscan hillside towns, drive around to see the beautiful scenery in tuscany. We don't want to be "rushed" but do want to see the highlights of this part of tuscany.

I stayed for 2 weeks in the Dordogne last year and absolutely loved it so I'm really hoping southern tuscany would offer the same magical experience.

Usually I have more time to do my travel research but work has been unexpectedly busy the last couple of months so I could really use some help from fellow fodorites!

What we have scheduled in the agenda so far

1. Monday - Avignoensi Estate - noon winery tour + lunch

2. Tuesday - half day cooking class with Ecco de Cucina near Siena; most likely we will visit Siena on the same day after class

3. Wed - La Foce garden visit in the late afternoon. I emailed them for a reservation but apparently they don't take them and just asked us to show up.

The above is all we have planned and I could really use some help with the area we should cover (something that is really hard to get from a guidebook - I am using the trusted green michelin guide on tuscany.)

My other questions are:

1. Given we are spending a week in this part of Tuscany, is Chianti / San Gimignano do-able as a day trip or will it be too hectic? What about the Arezzo / Cortona?

2. I love driving - any drives that are the highlights of your trip in this part of tuscany?

3. What are some of your favorite restaurants near or in PIenza? We are staying just outside of PIenza so we would prefer to eat either near or in Pienza to avoid a long drive home.

4. I would love to hear some of your favorite moments/highlights in tuscany!

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

dsevig

its been a few years since we did 2 trips to Tuscany but I remember using Gaiole as a base - La Miccine is the gite site and winery - great comfort and wines- side trips to San Gim and the chianti area as we were right in the middle of the chianti wine region were very easy and fun. Are other trip was based near Cortona which is very reachable also from Gaiole. just watch for public holiday dates as the popular towns and sites will be solid with Italians touring too!

Assisi is a wonderful town of my hero St Francis to tour - Sienna is very nice also for its square. It also has a central wine tasting site which is helpful.

Felsina is another very fine vintner of chiantis and oils. Historic site. as to restuarants all I can say is we cannot recall a bad meal of all we did - we usually have our big meal at lunch with limited vino and then do sausage and cheese and a bunch of wine back home with no driving to worry about.

don't try to do too much so you can relax and soak in the sites - driving is easy but be watchful on the narrow curvy roads for other drivers and bikers.

enjoy!

bobthenavigator

The day you see La Foce[ at 1500] you should see Montepulciano in the AM and have lunch at Osteria La Porta in Monticchiello at 12:30 to give you time to drive to La Foce.

Also, plan one day to Montalcino and the Abbey at St. Antimo, with a stop at Bagno Vignoni on your way home.

mamcalice

I think you could day trip to Chianti and San Gimignano. We stayed in a farmhouse between Greve and Panzano last year and did a day trip to Montalcino, Montepulciano and Sant' Antimo. Sant Antimo is an easy trip from where you will be staying. Don't miss the chants. Be sure to check the schedule on line so you won't miss them.

If you do travel to Chianti, a great place for lunch is Oltre il Giardino in Panzano.

RJD

Since you will be staying by Pienza, you should spend at least a portion of a day touring this small, pleasant and colorful town and have lunch at one of my Italian favorites, Latte de Luna, just down a side street off the main square. We have eaten there three times, mostly recently in 2010, and found it a delight each time. Try the papradella with duck sauce.
Zeffirelli used the main square in Romeo and Juliet, I understand.

RJD

Sorry meant to add you should visit the church that's falling off the cliff. Quite a site

Dayle

Piccolina,

Do make reservations in advance for Latte de Luna in Pienza.

I second the suggestion to visit Sant'Antimo for the Gregorian chants. A beautiful, simple church and the chants are memorable.

I stayed 3 nts in Montalcino and loved this little town. The enoteca at the Fortezza is excellent and the views from the walls above are spectacular. Be sure to have your camera!

Buon viaggio!

Piccolina

Thank you everyone for the suggestions!

I'm thinking what I should do on the Sunday (first full day after arriving). I read some older posts that say Pienza is open on Sunday but other towns will probably be close.

Will definitely go to Sant'Antimo for the Gregorian chants. Here is the official site. Do they do the entire mass in the chants and/or also for the prayers (eg:12:45pm for the Sext)? Because you're not allowed to visit the church during a mass...I'm finding the information re: the chants to be a bit confusing on the official site.

http://www.antimo.it/download/deplian_en.pdf

Any other restaurants you fancy in Pienza aside from Latte de Luna (this one will be on my list for sure)?

Piccolina

RJD - do you remember the name of "the church that's falling off the cliff"? I take it from your response that it is near Pienza?

Thanks!

macanimals

On your day trip to Avignonesi for the winery tour and lunch, you will not be far from Cortona and could possibly include a visit afterwards. Avignonesi is in the countryside about half way between Montepulciano and Cortona. Your challenge will be your energy level after the lunch etc.

If you are into wine and brunello, Montalcino is wide open on Sunday. Not the wineries themselves so much but the enotecas in town--Osticcio, Fortezza, Enoteca di Piazza and many others.

Don't miss La Porta in Montechiello--especially with a reservation for lunch at the outside terrace. Montepulciano is only a 20-25 min drive and has a couple of very good restaurants-Aquachetta and La Grotta come to mind.

Have fun--Paul

AussieFrance

Hi, I wrote a post last week on where to go in Tuscany: http://www.aussieinfrance.com/2012/0...go-in-tuscany/ that might be of use.

RJD

It's the Duomo just to the left of the main square in the heart of Pienza. You can't miss it. If you stand to the right of the church while facing it you will see a heart stopping view from the old well across the hills of Tuscany. Had a "moment" there.

Dayle

Piccolina,

I went to Sant'Antimo for the 9am Terce afterwhich there is a short pause and they continue with the regular mass. I stayed for the whole thing. It was lovely.

There were only about 12 people there. Half worshipers, half visitors sitting quietly, not walking around gawking.

After the mass, the monks left the church and "visiting hours" started (read tour buses rolling in). I left fast!

I would recommend going early. If the short Terce (10 minutes) is enough for you, then leave. Or attend the full mass and stay for visiting hours to look around in detail without a service going on.

Henry

Piccolina,
This may help http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm

willit

I had the same problem understanding the rules at San Antimo. The signs say no visiting during mass, and give visiting hours, but also say Church open all day. It turns out that anybody can attend the services, which are sung. The visitors referred just to those wishing to walk around and take photos.

charnees

Drive south on SR2 to Lago di Bolsena (about an hour if you don't stop), the follow the signs east to Civita di Bagnoregio, a tiny medieval town that sits on top of a mesa that is slowly peeling away, making the town smaller and smaller. They have been trying since the 1400s to find a way to save it. It's like a fairytale sight, and there is a restaurant (closed Tuesdays) right at the end of the road that is quite good. A nice place to have a real Italian lunch and look at the view.

From there, go on to Orvieto, which is a pretty small town to visit, with lots of ceramic stores and a stunning Duomo. Park in the free parking lot at the bottom of the hill below the train station and take the escalator and then the funicular up into town, a short and fun ride for a euro or so. You can walk or take the bus up to the Duomo. (Read more on line in or guidebooks.) Then either head back Via the A1 autostrada or retrace your steps to the SR2.

Also on the trip to Bolsena you will see Bagno Vignoni, a town perched on the edge of the hill with hot baths that the Romans frequented. The central piazza is actually built around a big hot pool, although you can't go into it. (You may get to this anyway in the course of your week in Pienza.)