Southern Spain - What to SEE, what to BUY - what NOT to miss
 

My husband and I will spend 2 weeks in Southern Spain in October. We'll be in Madrid (2nd trip), Toledo, Cordoba, Seville and Granada.
I'm always interested in restaurants. We don't like fancy...we like neighborhood. Also, I would like to know what to look for in terms of buying souveniers, art, artisan items. What are your top restaurant recommendations for each as well as what to buy while there. What should we NOT miss?

Thanks!

Take a look at Maribel's Guide to Sevilla (maribelsguides.com/mg_sevilla.pdf). It will give you a good point to get you started in planning your day.

What to SEE: just look into a guidebook. I think, Fodor makes them.

What to BUY: you will find souvenir shops at every corner. Every museum or other attraction has a gift shop. Browsing through the displays is part of the fun. I personally liked the hand-made items with traditional Moorish patterns most, especially the little music boxes.

What no to MISS: the big attractions - Alhambras and Cathedrals. Driving through the beautiful countryside. Ordering Spanish brandy in a bar, e.g. Cardenal Mendoza.

Robert is recommending his wife's website again :-(
I have always thought the guide was meant to be aimed at what they call a "Sophisticated Traveler", not someone who likes to non fancy.
My suggestions are
Granada: Morrison's - Hotel Fontecruz.
Sevilla: Manolo Vázquez http://www.manolovazquez.es/

Seville - cathedral, tour the bull ring, flamenco performance; tapas just about anywhere

Ronda - nice day trip with the white villages, sample the brandy, enjoy some sangria, wander the little towns and have a meal in a place where little or no english is spoken! (Zahara?)

I'd look out for linen, you can get great deals in some places.

You all know about Tapas etc and dining times in Spain? If not read up before you go. Also watch out for breakfast pastry made with lard :-) Also those extruded tubes you dunk in chocolate.

marcona almonds
turron candies
olives
manchego cheese
smoked pimenton
wooden spoons and salda forks made of olive wood
black maja soap

Fajalauza ceramics in Granada.

I thought the Rough Guide especially helpful for southern Spain. Enjoy!

In Seville we really enjoyed Osteria L'Oca Giuliva - It is located at Mateos Gago, 9 - lovely street close to the Cathedral. Best handmade sangria of our trip!

In Granda obviously the Alhambra - I assume you have your tickets already? We ate at Restaurantes Estrellas de San Nicolas - it was our most expensive meal of the trip $$$$ but really amazing - the view was priceless!!

Robert, thank you so much. We used Maribels guides for San Sebastian and Barcelona and I've already printed for Southern Spain. They were a God-send and I'd recommend them to anyone headed to Spain.
Ribe: We'll sure try your recommendation; thanks.
Others: Thanks for all recommendations. I found Capas Sesania in Madrid (last visit) and bought 2 beautiful full length capes. Headed there again. I'll file a trip report after. I love the forums. thanks.

Also to buy, if you're into shoes: espadrilles! Really inexpensive there, so expensive here, I bought a great pair a few years ago in Sevilla and still, wear them every summer. And buy olive oil- Spanish olive oil is awesome. I went searching for ceramics in Sevilla too (one of the things I always shop for abroad) and was sorely disappointed with what I found.
In Granada I found a beautiful watercolor print near the Alhambra. Assuming that you are going to Granada to see the Alhambra, plan to do the night time tour as well as (and after)!the daytime tour- magical!
Lastly, in Sevilla be sure and see a flamenco performance at la Casa de la Memoria. Well priced, at a reasonable hour and top notch performances- my highest recommendation and one of my favorite memories (we went two nights running when we were there last, and are returning to Sevilla in May and will see them again at least a couple of times!).

<interested in restaurants. We don't like fancy...we like neighborhood>

Casa Manolo, just behind the Parliament, is as Madrid as it gets: http://11870.com/pro/casa-manolo

In Sevilla, there are several nice neighbourhood places in and around the very local atmosphere Calle Feria up towards the Macarena Church. Also a great food market with adjoining tapas bars here. There are also lots of excellent non-touristy places in Triana, just across the city river Guadalquivir. Had a great lunch some days ago in one of the three laid-back restaurants in the start of Calle Callao, just over the Puente de Triana.

In Cordoba, there are many great, local atmosphere and affordable tabernas in "Roman Cordoba" between Plaza de las Tendillas and Plaza de la Corredera just some three hundred meters north of the Mezquita and the most beaten tourist track. http://www.cordoba24.info/tavernen/

Great information! Thanks for this thread - definitely saving it for my upcoming trip in May.

I too love Maribel's guides. Exploreseville.com also has some great recommendations for neighborhood tapas bars.