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-   -   somewhat "touristy" but worth it (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/somewhat-touristy-but-worth-it-707900/)

tdavid May 25th, 2007 05:12 AM

somewhat "touristy" but worth it
 
We just returned from a twelve day trip to Slovenia and Croatia in mid to late May. Yes, there are tourists there but with the exception of Dubrovnik, only 10-15% of them are Americans. This is in stark contrast to the last time we were in Florence (last summer) when there were fewer non-Americans than in Times Square on a random Wednesday afternoon.

Slovenia is lovely; Ljubljana is a picturesque small city with an extremely active outdoor cafe vibe and a river runs through it. The mountains in the background, the excellent food and wine and high percentage of college age kids give the city a life all its own. The gnocchi is the lightest and most delectable that you will ever experience.

We spent a day at Lake Bled and did the obligatory pletna ride to the island. Touristy- yes but the boat was filled with Italians, French, Germans and who knows what else.

In Croatia, we visited Istria, Lake Plitvice and the Dalmatian coast from Zadar to Dubrovnik including side trips to Brac and Cavtat.

Istria may or may not be the next Tuscany but Rovinji is like a hill town with a view of the sea. The vista from the Campanile is breathtaking and the harbor is an intriguing mix of working port and Venetian architecture with a bit of Grecian island limestone thrown in. The interior hilltowns were a bit disappointing- this is not Orvieto, Spoleto or Chianti.

Lake Plitvice is a major tourist attraction- with good reason. If you like walking in the woods and get a kick out of a fast moving brook and enjoy the sounds and sights of a waterfall, prepare to be dazzled. This place far exceeded my expectations. The scale is manageable but the variation in size, type, intensity and power of the waterfalls is amazing. The colors of the water range from deep green to dark blue and the protected fish population thrives.

Dalmatia is one fantastic vista after another. Yes Split is a bit gritty but the transportation hub has ferries to innumerable islands and efficient, frequent and cheap bus service to places all over Croatia and beyond.

Dubrovnik is really special. Touristy-yes and there were more Americans there than we saw anywhere else. The walk on the Old city walls with the Audio guide was interesting, beautiful and informative. Yes there were lots of others on the walls too including Japanese and French tour groups. Interestingly, across a small bay to the west is a Fort that upon walking up a few stairs (okay more than a few stairs) affords equally as inspiring views with nary a tourist group and only one or two other individuals.

About half way through our trip, my wife said, "Why don't more Americans go to Croatia?" Why not indeed.

tcreath May 25th, 2007 05:22 AM

I love your report! We too asked ourselves the same question throughout our Croatia and Slovenia trip: "why are American's still hesitant to visit here?" I swear half of them still think there is a war going on! I received all kinds of comments when we were planning our trip, although everyone was very impressed when we came back and they saw our pictures.

Slovenia was very untouristy when we were there, although of course we were there in November and spent two nights in a town halfway between the Croatia border and Ljubljana, Novo Mesto, but our waiter said that he never sees Americans in that town and that the only tourists they usually get are from the Germans who stop there on their way to Croatia.

With the exception of Dubrovnik we saw very few American tourists that we know of. Even Dubrovnik was mostly void of American tourists (again, it was November) except for the day that the cruise ship came in.

I loved loved loved Croatia and Slovenia and can't wait to go back!

Tracy

BTilke May 25th, 2007 05:36 AM

Nice report! But I would repost with another title (Slovenia/Croatia trip report, for example).
Slovenia is definitely on our list. Would like to see Dubrovnik, perhaps in spring 2008.

nbujic May 25th, 2007 05:40 AM

Croatia ( the coast) was a big tourist draw for Europeans ( Germans and Italians in particular)before the war.
No Americans at that time ,perhaps because former Yugoslavia was a communist country ( not under the Russian domination though )).When we visited in the summer of 2000 things were just starting to improve ( new roads, hotels etc).
As someone said, it is not Italy, but a lot of coastal areas are even more beautiful ( and cheaper).
Now, that it has been " discovered" watch the prices go up!

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Byrd May 25th, 2007 06:29 AM

tdavid,

What a wonderful trip you had!

Thank you for thr report.

Byrd


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