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jmf314159 Jan 17th, 2004 06:04 AM

Some Related Questions
 
My wife and I, both in our 50's, hope to spend perhaps 12 days in the United Kingdom in early July, with perhaps half that time being spent in London. I'm hoping that you migh help me with one or more of the following questions ...

1. How traumatic is the learning curve associated with driving on the left? I have visions of pulling out of a parking lot, turning left, and endangering/alienating half the country.

2. Is it better to see Shakespeare at the Globe or in Stratford?

3. What are the 2 most beautiful gardens in England?

4. What are the 2 best musicals scheduled for early July?

5. What is the best tour of London?

6. What is the 'Versailles' of the United Kingdom?

7. Assuming 5-6 days lodged somewhaer other than London, where should that 'somewhere' be?

Opinions concerning any or all of these would be greatly appreciated. Take care ...

nytraveler Jan 17th, 2004 06:21 AM

Well, we didn;t find the learning curve to be an issue - but we rented a car with automatic. Since two of us don't usually drive standard we thought that would be too much of a challenge on top of the left/right thing and and trying to find our way. My recommendations:

Get really good maps and have the navigator make all the rounte decisions so the driver can focus on driving. Also, don't have one person do any really long drives - after 4 hours or so you start to lose concentration.

We really enjoyed the Globe for the experience - but we had already done Stratford twice. Also, consider what's playing.

Sorry I can't help with the gardens - this is not our focus. The only thing I can mention is that we found a really interesting botanic garden in Oxford with a section planed as it would have been in the 16/17th century. (We didn't really appreciate this but it sounded fascinating - we were just looking for a place to sit down.)

Have a great trip.

jmf314159 Jan 17th, 2004 06:32 AM

"Get really good maps and have the navigator make all the rounte decisions so the driver can focus on driving."

I have the most wonderful wife in the world, but if I have to rely on her for navigation we're all doomed!

Thanks for the response!

Patrick Jan 17th, 2004 06:37 AM

Regarding the Globe or Stratford, which do you want? At the Globe, it's all about the experience of being in the "restoration" of the true Elizabethan theatre. Shows are fine, but don't expect the greatest Shakespeare production you've ever seen. If you're a real theatre person or really into Shakespearean productions, Stratford will provide a better experience overall.

I don't think it's possible to list the "two best musicals" without knowing what you want. Jerry Springer, the Opera; Mama Mia; Thoroughly Modern Millie; Blood Brothers; Phantom of the Opera (London is THE place to see it); are all different and all very good.

We've always adapted easily to the driving on the left idea -- partially because sitting on the right of the car to drive keeps you aware. You only have to think about the driver always being towards the center of the roadway. It does help to have a navigator though, whose main job is to calmly say "keep left" every time you start to go around a corner, and to watch the signs in a roundabout to know which exit to take. Never be afraid of missing your exit out of a big roundabout, just keeping going around until you can get in the correct lane to make the appropriate exit.

jmf314159 Jan 17th, 2004 07:06 AM

Michael,

Thank you for your Globe/Stratford distinction.

Obviously 'best musical' is a matter of taste. So, for example, I enjoyed Blood Brothers, but not so much as Chicago and Phantom. I preferred Cats and Kiss of the Spider Woman, neither of which compare (in my opinion) to the Producers. And I cannot imagine a musical better than Les Miserables.

Gardyloo Jan 17th, 2004 08:07 AM

1. Regarding left/right driving, don't worry. There will be thousands of French and German motorists on the same road making the same errors. My MO is to wait a day or two or three before driving if I've just landed from a long flight. Ride in cabs or buses for a day and it will start feeling more natural. Mind the mirrors.

2. Stratford. Only reason to go there IMO.

3. Hard to top Kew Gardens, but it's a nation of gardeners, and tastes vary. I really like Inverewe Gardens way up in the NW of Scotland. The gardens are beautiful; getting there is spectacular.

4. Pick 'em.

5. For organized tours, don't really know, execpt I've done the river trip from Westminster down to Greenwich and enjoyed it immensely. Now, however, I like walking to Greenwich under the river (1902 tunnel - marvelous). My recommendation, though, is to walk from Waterloo over the Westminster Bridge, past Parliament and up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square - as soon after arriving in Britain as you can. Talk about high-density imagery.

6. Probably Hampton Court.

7. In early July, go north - Yorkshire or Scotland. Fast train to Edinburgh, rent a car, 3 or 4 days up to the Highlands then back. Or ditto with York and the Dales/coast. Maybe the Northumberland coast. Save East Anglia or the Cotswolds for a less crowded time.

SalB Jan 17th, 2004 08:20 AM

If you are interested in gardens, you might enjoy this thread
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...mp;tid=1377219

or use "Search" above and type in Carrie and the fourth item should be her wonderful English Garden Report - Part I.

Her enthusiasm is infectious and her descriptions enthralling. You can read about all the gardens and make up your mind as to exactly what you want to see.

I don't know who Carrie is, but she made me want to visit every garden in England. If nothing else, it's a joy to read.

Enjoy your trip.

Tulips Jan 17th, 2004 08:23 AM

1. It's not too bad. English drivers are generally polite (at least I have found this). Do try not to drive too much to the left; nearly everyone does this; you try so much to stay on the left, you end up hitting the curb on the left.
2. Shakespeare; also consider the Open Air Theatre in Regent's Park. I have seen some wonderful performances there. They usually do a Shakespeare drama and a comedy there in the summer. Very very nice atmosphere.
7. I like the west of the country, Bath, Cotswolds.

janis Jan 17th, 2004 08:53 AM

ques. #1) If you are competent in the states you will be competent in th UK. if one is a nervous or timid driver at home they will be the same in the UK. The Auto vs. standard transmission is kicked around here all the time. An automatic might be easier for some but it will cost about £100 per week. I personally believe (strongly) that if you can drive a stick in the States you should get one in the UK. And not because of the cost difference. I think most US drivers get into trouble because they sort of go into "autopilot" and forget in places like carparks (parking lots) and in small towns/village and end up on the "wrong" side of the road. Having the gear shift over ther on the left is just one more reminder that things are different and to pay attention. Just my 2cents.

2) The RSC presents productions at both Stratford and in London and they would usually be the best for Shakespeare. But the Globe and Regents Park are also usually good - as already said - more for the experience than the "great" theatre.

3) That is really a totally unanswersble question - there are literally hundreds. Kew is wonderous but is not actually "beautiful". There are truly beautiful parts - but it is a huge botanic garden with lots of pretty bits. I'm not trying to talk you out of going there - you definitely should. I LOVE Kew, but there are so many "prettier" gardens all over the country. In fact some of the best are up in Scotland. But for a beautiful garden think of places like Sissinghurst (Almost too beautiful and it gets VERY crowded especially on weekends), Hidcote Manor, Wisley, Hever.

4) Most already mentioned . . . .

5) You don't really need a "tour" of London at all. There are many good walking tours of specific neighborhoods and for specific themes.and they are all listed in the Time Out that you should buy the first day you are in London. The Hop-on-hop-off double decker bus tours are good for getting you bearings.

6) The Versailles - I might agree Hampton Court Palace. It is huge, has glorious gardens, on the water, and amazing history. But there are many other great palaces and stately homes all over the country.

7) looking at what you mention (palaces and gardens) I'd highly recommend Kent/East Sussex. It is called the "garden of England" and there ar so many great gardens and castles it would keep you busy for 6 weeks let alone 6 days. Sissinghurst, Hever, Leeds, Penshurst Place, Chartwell, Scotney Castle Garden (an AMAZING place), Walmer, Dover and a hundred other sites.

uncle_sam Jan 17th, 2004 09:00 AM

Best single tip for driving in the UK...


KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL TO THE CENTER OF THE ROAD AT ALL TIMES!

Uncle Sam

GSteed Jan 17th, 2004 09:14 AM

Practical driving information: 1. Don't drive in England. 2. Drive in England, but get driving lesson, hire an instructor for a lesson or two. 3. Alternative, hire a guide driver. Touring England: Use London base and take day tours from there. Either bus or train. Visit London Tourist information office.

ed Jan 17th, 2004 10:14 AM

1. I have always rented a stickshift in the UK -10 times- and also in New Zealand. The only trouble that I've had is one of coordination. I am so right handed!! Strange noises come out of the transmission the first hour or so.
There are many scary stories about the roundabouts. I've never had much of a problem. There are diagrams before you get on and if you goof just go a round again. I'm good at that.:-]

My wife was disappointed in Kew Gardens (She is the family gardener)

Hampton Court is magnificent. One time we had a tour with a costumed guide..Fun

We especially like the Lake District and Yorkshire, but Chester is closer and also worth the trip. :-B

jmf314159 Jan 17th, 2004 11:36 AM

Thanks, folks. I really do appreciate the responses. Hampton Court sounds beautiful, and I may actually rent a car when we venture out of the city - so watch out!

So, having equipped ourselves with a fine automatic, upon what should we focus, using where as a base, for our 5 to 6 days outside of London?

isabel Jan 17th, 2004 01:47 PM

I'll give my opinion on some of these.
#1 - I didn't think it was traumatic at all. I thought it was kind of fun. I've driven in England twice and Ireland once and never had any problems. I did always have a navigator and I think that's important. Both times in England I picked up the car at Heathrow, I would not advise driving in London itself.

#3 Well one of the most beautiful gardens would have to be Sissinghurst, south of London. Absolutely beautiful.

#4 We saw My Fair Lady and loved it - it was such a kick to walk through Covent Garden and then see it in the play. I highly recommend that.

#5 - I don't use tours in most places, and wouldn't think you would need one in London. Do your own tour - do lots of research and put together what YOU want to see. Then read the history, etc about those places. If you need help getting started, in addition to numerous books with suggested tours of Lodnon, Ben Haines has some great ones - just search on his name.

#7 - I loved York but if you've never been to England you might want to concentrate a smaller area such as the Cotswolds, Bath, Stonehenge and Kent. Lots of castles, gardens churches and lovely towns in that area and it's not geographically too large.

mclaurie Jan 18th, 2004 05:09 PM

For driving, do a text search here for <ilots of different points of view. (Type driving AND england in the text search above).

Sissinghurst is considered the most beautiful garden by many. Have a look at the website britainexpress.com for others. Stourhead is also quite grand. Also, there's a trip report here (I think the title is something like "Garden report..." by someone who visited many.

For tours, most people like the hop on, hop off bus tour for a 1st visit to get acclimated to the city. People also like the London Walks tours (londonwalks.com) Make sure to do the Beefeater Tour at the Tower of London. If you have particular interests (ie architecture, literature etc.), the Britainexpress website lists some specialized tours.

There is no Versailles in the UK. Perhaps that's the reason the English monarchy is still in power while the French was overthrown :S- They're much more understated.

If you're looking for a grand home & gardens though, Blenheim Palace in Woodstock (the Cotswolds)is quite lovely, especially the gardens designed by Capability Brown. Also have a look at the Nationaltrust.org.uk/main for more than 200 stately homes thta can be toured.

If you're interested in gardens, grand homes etc., the town of Rye (charming, small, Tudor architecture) in Kent might be a good place from which to visit Sissinghurst, Bodiam Castle, Battle-where the Battle of Hastings took place.

mclaurie Jan 18th, 2004 05:15 PM

Here's a link to that garden report which also addresses some of your other questions. Enjoy the read!http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...mp;tid=1377219

sheila Jan 19th, 2004 12:14 AM

One answer only. Stratford. The experience is wonderful. Don't do it on a day trip; stay overnight.

jmf314159 Jan 19th, 2004 02:32 AM

mclaurie

You wrote: "If you're interested in gardens, grand homes etc., the town of Rye (charming, small, Tudor architecture) in Kent might be a good place from which to visit Sissinghurst, Bodiam Castle, Battle-where the Battle of Hastings took place."

Is Rye worthy of a 5-6 day stay, or should our non-London time be divided between a couple of sites?

What are the viable alternatives to Rye, e.g., Rye vs York, etc.?

Again, thans to all for the gracious input!

rosalicious Jan 19th, 2004 04:38 AM

I'd like to put in a vote for the Globe--it was one of the best experiences we had in London last summer. I thought the show, an all-female production of Taming of the Shrew, was very funny and well acted (though I'm not an expert). The cast members mingled with the audience in the pit (that's not the appropriate name for it, but the standing seats in the center), and the setting along the Thames and near the Tate Modern is really beautiful. The Globe also offers tours.

mclaurie Jan 19th, 2004 05:30 AM

To answer your questions about Rye, I suggested it because it sounded like you were interested in gardens & stately homes. Kent has both of these in quantity and is considered the Garden of England. I've never been up north (to York) but it is much different from what I understand. The growing ground is not as good & it's "wild & wooly".

Now, does Rye warrant 5-6 days? Maybe not. But I don't like packing &amp; unpacking &amp; there is certainly enough in the <i>area</i> to keep you busy for that long. I spent a weekend in Rye &amp; wished it was longer. But there are other places to stay. Here are a few threads that discuss the area &amp; other options.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34465915

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34465360

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34418636

If you plan on doing Stratford, you could also spend your 5-6 days in the Cotswolds where many choose to do their &quot;country&quot; bit. There are some lovely gardens there (Blenheim as I said) but there are MORE in Kent.

BTW, the Lake district is supposed to be beautiful too. Spoiled for choice really.


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