Some Randon Musings On Vienna

Old Sep 21st, 2001, 02:50 PM
  #1  
Bob Brown
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Some Randon Musings On Vienna

After my second visit to Vienna in as many years, I came to several conclusions.
Performances at Die Volksoper are fun. The ticket office makes it easy to buy in advance via email. Confirmations are sent out via English form letters, and the tickets are held for you until the night of the performance.

If you are going to be in Vienna within the next few weeks, The Merry Widow (Die Lustige Witwe) is a fun show, even if you cannot understand the dialogue. The dancing is super and the singing is good enough to make the performance enjoyable. I think the cast would be much stronger if Alethia Marie Papoulious is singing the role of Hanna Glawari -- the Merry Widow herself.

The Hotel Carlton Opera is a decent enough place to stay. In the summer, I think it would be great because it is air conditioned and the windows are double, thus shutting out most of the street noise. The breakfast is great and included. In fact after feasting at the breakfast table at the Hotel Astoria in Munich and the Carlton Opera in Vienna, it was a rude slap in the face to walk into the cafe associated with the Holiday Inn in downtown Charlotte and face a carton of Dannon yoghurt. I felt like I was in a 3rd World Country, or even a 4th World.

A major disappointment of the trip was my visit to Das Haus der Musik. It has a few technological gimmicks to make sound and play a few cds, but overall I left feeling empty. Considering that Vienna was the city of residence for such musical giants as Hayden, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Strausses of several hues, Brahms, Brucker, Mahler, and Berg, the displays were
sketchy to say the least.
In fact, there were no exhibits at all that featured either Brahms or Bruckner. I asked why, but no one seemed to know.
Schloss Schönbrunn, while not as gaudy as Versailles, seems more like a place where people worked, lived and died. In its own way, it has a subdued opulence commensurate with the general demeanor of Hapsburg monarchs.

Good fortune sometimes smiles on art lovers.
The exhibit of El Greco paintings at the Kunsthistorisches Museum was held over and I got to see on the last day.

The Belevedere is attractive, but it is a shame that the woman who inherited Prince Eugene's estate squandered it by selling the furniture.

In all an interesting city to visit, but somehow, it lacks the pizzazz of Paris. I am not sure what the missing ingredient is, nor am I even sure that missing is the right word, but the difference seems to encompass an element of somberness the feeling of which I do not experience in Paris.
I wonder if others share my view?
 
Old Sep 21st, 2001, 03:07 PM
  #2  
bettyk
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Having lived in Vienna for 2 years and also having visited Paris on two separate occasions, I thought I might comment. Paris is a much larger city than Vienna on many scales. Almost everything worth seeing in Vienna is located in a small area within the Ringstrasse. However, in that small area are some very nice people, some great restaurants, beautiful buildings and the history of the Hapsburg empire. Paris is on an entirely different level but I don't find the people friendly at all. They sometimes will tolerate you, but the Viennese like to laugh, drink wine and have a good time. This to me is the biggest difference in the two cities.
 
Old Sep 21st, 2001, 03:17 PM
  #3  
austin
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Bob---

Vienna is (or was) an Imperial City)
That means long grey blocks of of long grey buildings
That is how I found Vienna amd that is how it is and that is how it was

AH
 
Old Sep 21st, 2001, 06:16 PM
  #4  
adrienne
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Bob,

I too have visited Vienna twice although about 15 years apart. It IS completely different from Paris but not lacking in pizzazz. Cities have their own atmosphere and I would describe Vienna as joyous. It’s relaxed in a way that Paris never is and perhaps that’s what disconcerts you…the idea that cities should be filled with a sea of humanity traveling rapidly toward their destinations. This is not Vienna. I found the people to be as bettyk describes them. They’re friendly, charming, and warm but low key. Some of my memorable moments in Vienna include a performance of the Magic Flute in the Folksopera, an open air concert in the park, the red trollies, the giant ferris wheel, staying in a B&B in a room with fluffy white comforters and enjoying breakfast in the room, the wonderful cafes with great coffee and pastry, costumed soccer fans reveling in pre-Euro cup celebrations in the Graben, and seeing the church where my great grandfather was baptised.

Try Vienna one more time without comparing it to anything else and without expectations. I believe you’ll change your opinion.

Adrienne

 
Old Sep 21st, 2001, 07:44 PM
  #5  
Carla
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I agree with Adrienne. I've heard Vienna compared to Paris before, and always wondered why -- apples and oranges, really. Why not compare Vienna to London? It's just a totally different world.
I love the relaxed atmosphere of Vienna, the Eastern European influences, the warmth, the silly kitsch, the buildings and monuments that look like they're made of whipped cream.
Paris is a big, cold, chic, intriguing and tiring city. Vienna is a small, warm, lovable, relaxing one.
 
Old Sep 22nd, 2001, 07:46 AM
  #6  
Bob Brown
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Perhaps my view of Vienna this year and last were influenced two factors:
1. Both visits were done without the benefit of sunshine.
2. This year we arrived after the attack on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon.
3. Last year, I was dead tired when we got there and in terms of wanting to see more tourist sights, I absolutely "hit the wall" on the afternoon of the 4th day.
(I don't know if that has happened to you or not, but last year I suddenly was on empty.)
But you need to read my comments about the performances at the opera. I stated that I had a good time there. And I was happy to have stumbled into the heldover El Greco exhibition.

Perhaps the reaction I had to Paris was influenced by the frenetic pace of the traffic and the crowds on the Metro and the buses.
And I did say that performances at Die Volksoper were fun!! Those were not a somber experience, except for Violetta's death scene in La Traviata. That scene was so well acted and sung as to be totally captivating and engrossing. And to repeat an earlier comment, Die Lustige Witwe, was a real blast. The third act featured an extra piece: a cancan line that danced to the well-known music of Offenbach. The orchestra and dancers through themselves into the performance with allthe gusto you can imagine. The audience went wild, me included. The performer doing the role of Valencienne was also leading the cancan line. She was out of breath a little, so before the encore she held up a finger to the audience as it to say "Give me a minute." The applause continued until everybody was ready to go again. Then dance was repeated with more vigor than the first time, and the audience applauded louder than ever.
The brass playing in the orchestra, particulary the trumpets was absolutely top notch - full of life, right on key, and thrilling. Absolutely superb!!!
 
Old Sep 22nd, 2001, 01:49 PM
  #7  
adrienne
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Bob,

That’s great travel spirit shining through! It’s very clear now that you loved the performances. We just have to get you to love the people and the architecture ;-). I agree that gray weather does affect my opinion of a place, especially when I’m there for just a short time. I also have experienced travel weariness as you describe in your second posting; it usually hits me at the end of the second week, especially if the weather is not sunny. I know then it’s time to regroup and relax a bit rather than trying to continue intense sightseeing.

For Carla – this is the first time I’ve heard Vienna and Paris compared with each other and the only reason I can think of is because of the Schonbrunn and Versailles. And you’re right about the buildings and monuments – I love them all!

Adrienne

 
Old Sep 23rd, 2001, 06:54 AM
  #8  
Bob Brown
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I must have been more jet lagged than I realized. The name of the singer at the Volksoper in Vienna that I referenced above is: Althea-Maria Papoulias

If you are in Vienna and have an interest in attending a performance of Die Lustige Witwe, I think Ms. Papoulias would be excellent in the role of Hanna Glawari, the Merry Widow. I also think Morten Frank Larsen would be great in the role of the somewhat sottish Count Danilo, who loves the Grisettes at Maxims in Paris.
Also, the cast threw themselves into the performance -- not through. My grammatical blunder was either jet lag or another senior moment.
No matter, whether it was through, throw, thru, or threw, the performance was great fun.
Too bad Vienna is so far away from my house.
 
Old Sep 23rd, 2001, 07:42 AM
  #9  
dan woodlief
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Bob, weather can definitely make a difference. The first day I was in Munich, it was cool and rainy, for some reason not providing the festive atmosphere I had always imagined. The next day was sunny, there was a festival going on, and lots of strollers were out in the parks. That is what I will remember.
 

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