So Not ready for Europe-An Ongoing Trip Report
Oct 10th, 2011, 07:37 AM
#1
Original Poster
So Not ready for Europe-An Ongoing Trip Report
OK, I've tried doing these sorts of things before and every time I HAVE, something seems to pop up in the middle and interrupt including inability to connect to the web, unexpected illnesses and deaths, or just plain old lack of interest.
So, once more into the breach.
We planned this trip about a year ago and we were fortunate enough to get FF seats on the very first (and last) phone call. I am reminded about that recent post asking for 'secrets to getting seats to...' and my answer remains: don't be too picky and keep trying."
If there is any so-called 'down side' to our seats it is/was the outbound route but we made the most of it.
Left Washington-Dulles yesterday afternoon around 12:30 PM on a short United flight to Toronto. Dulles check-in was fast and easy (we were there obviously well before the more common onslaught of travelers checking in for those flights to Europe which typically begin leaving around 5:30 PM) and Security had very short lines, also. The flight itself was uneventful and the plane wasn't even a fourth full.
Even easier transit through Toronto; bags were checked all the way through so no re-claiming. Border service check-through very fast with an agent equipped with enough armor to withstand an assault from a whole division of soldiers.
Our ongoing seats to Heathrow were in Air Canada's "executive" class ("don't call it First and the finance folks in your office are more likely to spring for it) so we were able to hang out (for four hours or so!) in one of the Maple Leaf lounges which was pleasant. Hot food, real booze, not crowded, and quiet.
Actual flight left on time, arrived early, the flat bed seats afforded some sleep, crew was attentive, food nicely presented, etc. What's not to like?
Heathrow!!!!!!..those long, long, LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG walk-ways but the periodic moving segments are a help. We landed right after 6:00 AM. People from our flight rushing along in a hurry..it was nice not to have to. Luggage on the belt before we got to it. Premium Customs/Immigration line was fast; nobody much worried about whether you had anything to "declare" or not.
On the Underground for the ride into the city. We had ordered Oyster visitor cards on line and they were ready to go. The tube train filled up rather quickly after the first few stops and I was able to stand at one end of a car with our one larger bag and not impede anyone's riding ability which made me feel better.
By the time we reached the Covent Garden stop the car was half empty.
We have rented a THIRD FLOOR WALK UP <G> flat on Neal Street an easy walk from the Underground, and the owner's representative was here waiting for us..this well before 8 AM. This is the neighborhood we usually stay in and have always used the nearby Covent Garden Hotel in the past which is a great place IMO to stay. The flat offers more room, is obviously cheaper, and even has a roof terrace. The place is small but well-designed and includes free internet access and a washer and dryer. We are pleased with this choice and there is a little dog living one floor down...I have yet to meet him/her but am determined to do so!
WEATHER: in a word, wonderful with periods of sunshine and nicely mild although there are some folks already wearing scarves which I assume are "fashion statements' more than anything.
CG has NOT changed since we were here last a couple years ago: ATTENTION FASHIONISTAS: the real question SHOULD BE: "Can I go to Europe and NOT wear denim and every sort of footwear KNOWN to Man?" And what is with these dark, dark, DARK colors???? Lots of folks smoking..outside, of course...a decidedly young crowd in general, on their way to work, hanging out, etc.
Unpacked, learned how to find all the light switches and what they operate including the wall outlets. Went to nearby Marks+Spencer for some food although there are all sorts of smaller grocery-type venues nearby. Used the self check out and a non chip and pin credit card..no problems.
Picked up tickets for two upcoming performances at the Royal Opera House ("Faust" tonight and "La Traviata" this Thursday). We usually do West End shows but have seen most of the major ones and might get last-minute tickets to something of sudden interest.
Will continue reporting...but as to the TITLE of this report. As i said, we planned this trip one year ago and lots of good things have occurred between then and now including the purchase of a condo in Fort Lauderdale for get-away purposes and we will settle on it two days after our return from Europe. Frankly, my mind is more on THAT than this trip but certainly not complaining as we feel fortunate to be here.
So, once more into the breach.
We planned this trip about a year ago and we were fortunate enough to get FF seats on the very first (and last) phone call. I am reminded about that recent post asking for 'secrets to getting seats to...' and my answer remains: don't be too picky and keep trying."
If there is any so-called 'down side' to our seats it is/was the outbound route but we made the most of it.
Left Washington-Dulles yesterday afternoon around 12:30 PM on a short United flight to Toronto. Dulles check-in was fast and easy (we were there obviously well before the more common onslaught of travelers checking in for those flights to Europe which typically begin leaving around 5:30 PM) and Security had very short lines, also. The flight itself was uneventful and the plane wasn't even a fourth full.
Even easier transit through Toronto; bags were checked all the way through so no re-claiming. Border service check-through very fast with an agent equipped with enough armor to withstand an assault from a whole division of soldiers.
Our ongoing seats to Heathrow were in Air Canada's "executive" class ("don't call it First and the finance folks in your office are more likely to spring for it) so we were able to hang out (for four hours or so!) in one of the Maple Leaf lounges which was pleasant. Hot food, real booze, not crowded, and quiet.
Actual flight left on time, arrived early, the flat bed seats afforded some sleep, crew was attentive, food nicely presented, etc. What's not to like?
Heathrow!!!!!!..those long, long, LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG walk-ways but the periodic moving segments are a help. We landed right after 6:00 AM. People from our flight rushing along in a hurry..it was nice not to have to. Luggage on the belt before we got to it. Premium Customs/Immigration line was fast; nobody much worried about whether you had anything to "declare" or not.
On the Underground for the ride into the city. We had ordered Oyster visitor cards on line and they were ready to go. The tube train filled up rather quickly after the first few stops and I was able to stand at one end of a car with our one larger bag and not impede anyone's riding ability which made me feel better.
By the time we reached the Covent Garden stop the car was half empty.
We have rented a THIRD FLOOR WALK UP <G> flat on Neal Street an easy walk from the Underground, and the owner's representative was here waiting for us..this well before 8 AM. This is the neighborhood we usually stay in and have always used the nearby Covent Garden Hotel in the past which is a great place IMO to stay. The flat offers more room, is obviously cheaper, and even has a roof terrace. The place is small but well-designed and includes free internet access and a washer and dryer. We are pleased with this choice and there is a little dog living one floor down...I have yet to meet him/her but am determined to do so!
WEATHER: in a word, wonderful with periods of sunshine and nicely mild although there are some folks already wearing scarves which I assume are "fashion statements' more than anything.
CG has NOT changed since we were here last a couple years ago: ATTENTION FASHIONISTAS: the real question SHOULD BE: "Can I go to Europe and NOT wear denim and every sort of footwear KNOWN to Man?" And what is with these dark, dark, DARK colors???? Lots of folks smoking..outside, of course...a decidedly young crowd in general, on their way to work, hanging out, etc.
Unpacked, learned how to find all the light switches and what they operate including the wall outlets. Went to nearby Marks+Spencer for some food although there are all sorts of smaller grocery-type venues nearby. Used the self check out and a non chip and pin credit card..no problems.
Picked up tickets for two upcoming performances at the Royal Opera House ("Faust" tonight and "La Traviata" this Thursday). We usually do West End shows but have seen most of the major ones and might get last-minute tickets to something of sudden interest.
Will continue reporting...but as to the TITLE of this report. As i said, we planned this trip one year ago and lots of good things have occurred between then and now including the purchase of a condo in Fort Lauderdale for get-away purposes and we will settle on it two days after our return from Europe. Frankly, my mind is more on THAT than this trip but certainly not complaining as we feel fortunate to be here.
Oct 10th, 2011, 08:31 AM
#3
Hi Dukey,
welcome to GB.
If there is any so-called 'down side' to our seats it is/was the outbound route but we made the most of it.>>
if the your journey back is easier than that, then you are in for a very smooth ride.
could you post a link to your apartment and the hotel?
Hope you enjoy the opera!
keep it coming.
welcome to GB.
If there is any so-called 'down side' to our seats it is/was the outbound route but we made the most of it.>>
if the your journey back is easier than that, then you are in for a very smooth ride.
could you post a link to your apartment and the hotel?
Hope you enjoy the opera!
keep it coming.
Oct 10th, 2011, 08:56 AM
#4
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Welcome and have fun. The sun was nice this afternoon, wasn't it? What wouldn't I give to have a flat (with roof terrace) in Neal St............
Congratulations on negotiating the Marks and Sparks self check-out: out of all of them, it's the one that drives me most barmy.
Congratulations on negotiating the Marks and Sparks self check-out: out of all of them, it's the one that drives me most barmy.
Oct 11th, 2011, 01:02 AM
#8
Original Poster
Thanks, all.
Tuesday morning...another partly cloudy day with patches of bright blue sky..breezy with a couple of darker clouds looming.
We figured everything in the flat out by last night including the locks on the doors to the building itself as well as to the flat entrance (turn one key clockwise and the other anti-). the various light and receptacle switches...the on-demand hot water heater works well; not cold enough to have the heat on. met the little doggie who lives below..very sweet in person.
Ann, I WILL try to get the flat link up for you at some point as it has pictures. Bear with me on that and as to the self check-out at Marks...we had help from the attendant since there was no electronic screen to "sign" the credit card receipt I had to sign a paper one and handed it to the attendant.
Since a lot of people are NOT so-called "opera buffs" I am not going to belabor the "Faust" thing too much BUT I as a more or less NON-opera "buff" have to say that last night's performance (the last one for this revival cycle at the Royal Opera House was, IMO, absolutely stunning in many ways.
The place itself LOOKS great inside...the usual colors of red and gold prevail. Not as much marble inside as the Liceu in Barcelona but who cares? Great acoustics, wonderful orchestra, and even those nosebleed seats in the upper upper upper balcony looked to be filled.
The ROH says that there "is no dress code" and they are absolutely right. Most, but not all, the men were in jackets; the ladies, of course, were in the usual wide variety of attire; a few obvious "trophy wives" and some May-December partnerships. More than a few claques of gay guys, some old enough to remember La Callas and one woman done up in a turban, bling for YEARS, and a fur stole who could easily have passed for Norma Desmond!
Rene Pape's Mephistopheles was wonderfully comic; Vittorio Grigolo (the youngest tenor ever to have a debut at La Scala) has a voice that literally brings tears to one's eyes...well, at least to mine!
This thing has five acts with a ballet in the fifth. The sets are wonderfully spooky and smokey and DARK; the ballerinas in the fifth act eventually engage in a mock orgy and rape scene as Marguerite goes to Heaven and Faust and the Devil head for hell.
Great fun and the audience loved it. I did learn one thing that despite audience adoration nobody in the stalls was on their feet which explains why those Brits behind me at the Arena di Verona last summer got pissed off at me for jumping up at the end of "Carmen" and blocking their view!
Travel! great way to learn.
Is now 10:00 AM and Neal Street seems dead..we are off to the Wallace Collection and perhaps the Geffrye amongst other things and will report back later.
Hope everyone is having a great day.
Tuesday morning...another partly cloudy day with patches of bright blue sky..breezy with a couple of darker clouds looming.
We figured everything in the flat out by last night including the locks on the doors to the building itself as well as to the flat entrance (turn one key clockwise and the other anti-). the various light and receptacle switches...the on-demand hot water heater works well; not cold enough to have the heat on. met the little doggie who lives below..very sweet in person.
Ann, I WILL try to get the flat link up for you at some point as it has pictures. Bear with me on that and as to the self check-out at Marks...we had help from the attendant since there was no electronic screen to "sign" the credit card receipt I had to sign a paper one and handed it to the attendant.
Since a lot of people are NOT so-called "opera buffs" I am not going to belabor the "Faust" thing too much BUT I as a more or less NON-opera "buff" have to say that last night's performance (the last one for this revival cycle at the Royal Opera House was, IMO, absolutely stunning in many ways.
The place itself LOOKS great inside...the usual colors of red and gold prevail. Not as much marble inside as the Liceu in Barcelona but who cares? Great acoustics, wonderful orchestra, and even those nosebleed seats in the upper upper upper balcony looked to be filled.
The ROH says that there "is no dress code" and they are absolutely right. Most, but not all, the men were in jackets; the ladies, of course, were in the usual wide variety of attire; a few obvious "trophy wives" and some May-December partnerships. More than a few claques of gay guys, some old enough to remember La Callas and one woman done up in a turban, bling for YEARS, and a fur stole who could easily have passed for Norma Desmond!
Rene Pape's Mephistopheles was wonderfully comic; Vittorio Grigolo (the youngest tenor ever to have a debut at La Scala) has a voice that literally brings tears to one's eyes...well, at least to mine!
This thing has five acts with a ballet in the fifth. The sets are wonderfully spooky and smokey and DARK; the ballerinas in the fifth act eventually engage in a mock orgy and rape scene as Marguerite goes to Heaven and Faust and the Devil head for hell.
Great fun and the audience loved it. I did learn one thing that despite audience adoration nobody in the stalls was on their feet which explains why those Brits behind me at the Arena di Verona last summer got pissed off at me for jumping up at the end of "Carmen" and blocking their view!
Travel! great way to learn.
Is now 10:00 AM and Neal Street seems dead..we are off to the Wallace Collection and perhaps the Geffrye amongst other things and will report back later.
Hope everyone is having a great day.
Oct 11th, 2011, 07:26 AM
#11
Original Poster
A few observations re London, or at least the part we're in. The city always seems much more like what some might call an "urban village" when you make what seems like the inevitable comparison to New York and particularly Manhattan. Perhaps it is because the streets are narrower and the pedestrians seem slightly less rushed. Lower building heights mean much less of the hemmed in feeling.
We have a TV in the flat...it has everything from Jerry Springer to the BBC Breakfast. LOTS of American TV..groan <G>.
This morning we used the Underground to make our way to the Wallace Collection which we both thoroughly enjoyed. The room decoration and furnishings are interesting in and of themselves and the rooms are rather densely hung with a vast array of art works. I've gotten to the point in life of being able to sit and contemplate in museums and some of the Murillos, particularly the "Adoration of the Shepherds" was wonderfully soothing to see. Of course, there are the several really well known things such as Hals, "Laughing Cavalier" and Fragonard's "The Swing" and a wealth of other sights. And then there are the SEVERAL rooms filled with swords, suits of armor, weapons, etc.
To think this was once a private home is always astounding and we spent several hours just wandering through. I am grateful to Nytraveler and Latedaytraveler among others for suggesting this on my post earlier this year.
We decided to delay the Geffrye to later in the week.
Stopped in at Selfridges on the way back to the flat and we enjoyed the Museum of Everything as well as general browsing.
Also went to the 1/2 price ticket booth at Leicester Sq at the theatre buff husbear's insistence and bought two tickets for "The Wizard of Oz" for tonight. Have not read any reviews so we'll see.
Remains overcast and cool/breezy but comfortable. Christmas decorations (?) have been hung on Oxford Street but I assume they are not yet illuminated.
We have a TV in the flat...it has everything from Jerry Springer to the BBC Breakfast. LOTS of American TV..groan <G>.
This morning we used the Underground to make our way to the Wallace Collection which we both thoroughly enjoyed. The room decoration and furnishings are interesting in and of themselves and the rooms are rather densely hung with a vast array of art works. I've gotten to the point in life of being able to sit and contemplate in museums and some of the Murillos, particularly the "Adoration of the Shepherds" was wonderfully soothing to see. Of course, there are the several really well known things such as Hals, "Laughing Cavalier" and Fragonard's "The Swing" and a wealth of other sights. And then there are the SEVERAL rooms filled with swords, suits of armor, weapons, etc.
To think this was once a private home is always astounding and we spent several hours just wandering through. I am grateful to Nytraveler and Latedaytraveler among others for suggesting this on my post earlier this year.
We decided to delay the Geffrye to later in the week.
Stopped in at Selfridges on the way back to the flat and we enjoyed the Museum of Everything as well as general browsing.
Also went to the 1/2 price ticket booth at Leicester Sq at the theatre buff husbear's insistence and bought two tickets for "The Wizard of Oz" for tonight. Have not read any reviews so we'll see.
Remains overcast and cool/breezy but comfortable. Christmas decorations (?) have been hung on Oxford Street but I assume they are not yet illuminated.
Oct 11th, 2011, 07:58 AM
#13
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You're right about standing ovations. We are reluctant, even in the stage-managed conferences of political parties, which tend to be increasingly Stalinist about such things. Watching US TV, I rather get the impression a standing ovation is considered de rigueur for anything short of actually forgetting one's lines: though some of the more populist entertainment programmes here seem to be heading in that direction.
Was this the same production design of Faust as the one that had Bryn Terfel as Mephistopheles revealed in majestic midnight blue (with glitter) drag?
Was this the same production design of Faust as the one that had Bryn Terfel as Mephistopheles revealed in majestic midnight blue (with glitter) drag?
Oct 11th, 2011, 09:09 PM
#14
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Yes! The Devil did, in fact, appear in a very glittery midnight blue gown during the so-called orgy scene and it was quite something.
Last night we saw "The Wizard of Oz" at the Palladium. We traveled over to Oxford Circus from the flat around 6PM. Wow! What a difference in terms of street pedestrian traffic as compared to our Wallace Collection-shopping outing earlier in the afternoon!!
The Underground stations and trains were mobbed as was Oxford Street once we arrived but we at least didn't have any trouble finding the theatre.
I had read an older (march 2011) of this show on line earlier in the day. One thing mentioned was that ALW's new songs didn't all that much to the show and that it is fairly faithful to the movie.
I would kinda agree on both counts. The sets were great and the "witch" psrts are both VERY well played IMO. The Dorothy character is no Garland but she was fine and we were happy with the show overall, especially considering we got tickets in the Dress Circle at 50% off the regular price and had absolutely great views.
Later this morning we leave, by rail, for York and our own "must-do" day trip to Castle Howard which I will report on when we get back.
Last night we saw "The Wizard of Oz" at the Palladium. We traveled over to Oxford Circus from the flat around 6PM. Wow! What a difference in terms of street pedestrian traffic as compared to our Wallace Collection-shopping outing earlier in the afternoon!!
The Underground stations and trains were mobbed as was Oxford Street once we arrived but we at least didn't have any trouble finding the theatre.
I had read an older (march 2011) of this show on line earlier in the day. One thing mentioned was that ALW's new songs didn't all that much to the show and that it is fairly faithful to the movie.
I would kinda agree on both counts. The sets were great and the "witch" psrts are both VERY well played IMO. The Dorothy character is no Garland but she was fine and we were happy with the show overall, especially considering we got tickets in the Dress Circle at 50% off the regular price and had absolutely great views.
Later this morning we leave, by rail, for York and our own "must-do" day trip to Castle Howard which I will report on when we get back.
Oct 11th, 2011, 10:10 PM
#15
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As promised: the website for this flat rental is www.holidays-villefranche.com
Click on "London Apartment" on the top banner of the home page.
Click on "London Apartment" on the top banner of the home page.
Oct 12th, 2011, 01:19 AM
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Really enjoying your report Dukey. We were in London for a week in May staying in Bloomsbury and walked around CG most days so this is bringing back lots of nice memories.
That apartment looks fabulous, wish I had found that before we went.
We also spent 2 nights in York and then a week in Ampleforth in the the North York National Park. We spent a day at Castle Howard on our drive from York to our cottage. Looking forward to your thoughts.
Keep enjoying your holiday.
That apartment looks fabulous, wish I had found that before we went.
We also spent 2 nights in York and then a week in Ampleforth in the the North York National Park. We spent a day at Castle Howard on our drive from York to our cottage. Looking forward to your thoughts.
Keep enjoying your holiday.
Oct 12th, 2011, 11:27 AM
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"We are reluctant, even in the stage-managed conferences of political parties, which tend to be increasingly Stalinist about such things. "
Sadly, I disagree. Patrick may be reluctant to join in standing ovations at party conferences . But most fellow-attendees aren't - and rarely need any encouragement from the Party gauleiters. Worse yet: the standing really is now spontaneous: there aren't any hidden "Applause" signs.
May be the result of the current political situation: LibDems are really pissed off at the press they're getting, so want to show they're behind Nick, whether they are or not. Most Tories are still delighted Dave's in charge, whatever the loonies in the Speccy keep on pretending. So the sweaty-socks have to be even more North Korean than the other two. And even cynical old observers on forums like this this find themselves borrowing Nick's jokes about the whole thing.
Utterly unBritish.
Sadly, I disagree. Patrick may be reluctant to join in standing ovations at party conferences . But most fellow-attendees aren't - and rarely need any encouragement from the Party gauleiters. Worse yet: the standing really is now spontaneous: there aren't any hidden "Applause" signs.
May be the result of the current political situation: LibDems are really pissed off at the press they're getting, so want to show they're behind Nick, whether they are or not. Most Tories are still delighted Dave's in charge, whatever the loonies in the Speccy keep on pretending. So the sweaty-socks have to be even more North Korean than the other two. And even cynical old observers on forums like this this find themselves borrowing Nick's jokes about the whole thing.
Utterly unBritish.
Oct 12th, 2011, 01:09 PM
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Dukey, your apartment looks great. Glad that you enjoyed the Wallace Collection – really something else,eh?
Looking forward to your description of Castle Howard. BRIDESHEAD REVISITED is among my top 5 novels of all time and I loved the film adaptations of the story set in and around Castle Howard.
Looking forward to your description of Castle Howard. BRIDESHEAD REVISITED is among my top 5 novels of all time and I loved the film adaptations of the story set in and around Castle Howard.
Oct 12th, 2011, 03:45 PM
#20
Original Poster
It's almost midnight here, I'm half dead, but will make a few comments anyway.
First, as to this flat. When we arrived at oh dark thirty on Monday morning I was delighted that unlike our usual hotel experiences, including at the wonderful nearby Covent Garden Hotel, where we have rarely ever gotten into our hotel room upon these often early arrivals, I knew that wouldn't be the case this time around.
I admit to being far FAR too cheap to pay for an additional "night before actual arrival" in any hotel so we've spent more than a few arrival mornings feeling like half dead zombies in London, Paris, Amsterdam, etc., waiting for rooms to be "ready."
Unfortunately, when we arrived we were told that the refrigerator wasn't working and the person who looks after things on behalf of the owner had no idea when a new one would be coming forth.
I was not real happy about this, especially the probably unfair stereotypically-thought-of-as-European "shrug of the shoulders and the 'who knows'? response" but despite some sleep on the plane I was just too weary to argue the point.
The next day we got a personal phone call from the owner who was hugely apologetic and assured me that a new refrigerator was on order and would be installed today. This was perfect since we knew we'd be gone all day.
Upon arrival this evening there was a note announcing that the new refrigerator (it is one of those under the counter models) is slightly larger than anticipated and as a result (since it sits at right angles to the stove) you NOW cannot open the over door!!! The refrigerator works fine, however.
What to do now? I know what I'd LIKE to do but in the meanwhile will go over a few of today's more interesting events in case anyone is actually interested.
Up a little earlier than usual this AM (around 5 AM) to shower and shave and then set off for Kings Cross. Covent Garden is definitely NOT a "morning person" and when we left the flat around 7 AM the neighborhood was still fast asleep.
We had collected our pre-paid train tickets from the machines yesterday in order to avoid any last minute unanticipated issues and good thing because the first two machines couldn't read my credit card but the third time/machine was a charm.
This morning we did the usual stand around and STARE at the departures board waiting for the magic platform number to appear before the mad dash to the train begins. I was interested in seeing the crush of people ARRIVING...I assume these are what we would call "commuters" and it is obviously a scene played out in large cities with DECENT rail networks, few of which are in the United States.
Our train left on time and was pretty full but we were comfortable for the 2+ hr segment to York and after that a short trip to Malton. The last segment ran late so we missed a bus connection and took a more expensive (as in twice as much) cab ride the 6 miles to Castle Howard.
The weather chilly and alternated between heavy mist and rain. The countryside is, of course, exquisite..and what many of us undoubtedly (to some) horribly misinformed colonists would probably describe as "quintessentially English" what with the VERY ULTRA green grass, the hedgerows, the sheep, the hills. And then Castle Howard seems to rise up out of the mists..or at least the out buildings do. I kept waiting for Merle Oberon and Olivier from "Wuthering Heights" to show up and take the tickets!
Despite the weather the actual place is magic probably because so many of us have seen it..or at least some of the exteriors in the "Brideshead" productions. And it doesn't disappoint, either. The grounds seem HUGE and the "great lake" and that Atlas fountain as well as the dome and lantern on the main building itself. Well, you know what I mean.
The interior is loaded with a combination of Greco_Roman statuary, lots of art work including pieces done by at least one former owner and part of the Brideshead interior set. Some of the furnishings are not nearly as rich in texture as those we saw in the Wallace Collection house yesterday, but it's still a great house and the views of the grounds are stunning and soothing in many ways.
Perhaps my favorite part of the interior is the chapel with its wonderful pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows which are claimed to be some of the most beautiful examples of their kind anywhere.
The other thing I enjoyed is the enormous and completely walled "rose garden" which has statuary, a wonderful koi pond, and not only roses but also wonderful hedge ARCHES, herbs, vegetables, and many other flowers still in late bloom. This is a world in and of itself and when we walked through it was pretty much silent since we were the only other visitors there at that moment.
And, of COURSE, there were other visitors inside the house and some outside, too, and more than a few of the latter were accompanied by their dogs (they aren't allowed inside the hose but the place provides bowls of water for them scattered about outside) so I managed to make a few more "new friends" today.
We had a wonderful lunch in one of the outbuildings which has been converted to a combination market (they sell fresh local produce, meats, milk, etc., as well as the usual candy, sweets, Duchy Original goods, etc.). This is a situation we've seen in other houses both elsewhere in Europe as well as in places such as Biltmore, and others in the US. I am sure it is driven as much by economics as anything else.
I had the most delicious white onion and potato soup, among other things, and the service was cheerful and friendly.
We were able to get the local bus back to Malton and spent some time briefly exploring the town. Arrived back in London tonight around 9 PM and this part of Covent Garden isn't much of a "night person" at that hour, either.
Long but rewarding day and the weather's a bit better down here, too <G>.
First, as to this flat. When we arrived at oh dark thirty on Monday morning I was delighted that unlike our usual hotel experiences, including at the wonderful nearby Covent Garden Hotel, where we have rarely ever gotten into our hotel room upon these often early arrivals, I knew that wouldn't be the case this time around.
I admit to being far FAR too cheap to pay for an additional "night before actual arrival" in any hotel so we've spent more than a few arrival mornings feeling like half dead zombies in London, Paris, Amsterdam, etc., waiting for rooms to be "ready."
Unfortunately, when we arrived we were told that the refrigerator wasn't working and the person who looks after things on behalf of the owner had no idea when a new one would be coming forth.
I was not real happy about this, especially the probably unfair stereotypically-thought-of-as-European "shrug of the shoulders and the 'who knows'? response" but despite some sleep on the plane I was just too weary to argue the point.
The next day we got a personal phone call from the owner who was hugely apologetic and assured me that a new refrigerator was on order and would be installed today. This was perfect since we knew we'd be gone all day.
Upon arrival this evening there was a note announcing that the new refrigerator (it is one of those under the counter models) is slightly larger than anticipated and as a result (since it sits at right angles to the stove) you NOW cannot open the over door!!! The refrigerator works fine, however.
What to do now? I know what I'd LIKE to do but in the meanwhile will go over a few of today's more interesting events in case anyone is actually interested.
Up a little earlier than usual this AM (around 5 AM) to shower and shave and then set off for Kings Cross. Covent Garden is definitely NOT a "morning person" and when we left the flat around 7 AM the neighborhood was still fast asleep.
We had collected our pre-paid train tickets from the machines yesterday in order to avoid any last minute unanticipated issues and good thing because the first two machines couldn't read my credit card but the third time/machine was a charm.
This morning we did the usual stand around and STARE at the departures board waiting for the magic platform number to appear before the mad dash to the train begins. I was interested in seeing the crush of people ARRIVING...I assume these are what we would call "commuters" and it is obviously a scene played out in large cities with DECENT rail networks, few of which are in the United States.
Our train left on time and was pretty full but we were comfortable for the 2+ hr segment to York and after that a short trip to Malton. The last segment ran late so we missed a bus connection and took a more expensive (as in twice as much) cab ride the 6 miles to Castle Howard.
The weather chilly and alternated between heavy mist and rain. The countryside is, of course, exquisite..and what many of us undoubtedly (to some) horribly misinformed colonists would probably describe as "quintessentially English" what with the VERY ULTRA green grass, the hedgerows, the sheep, the hills. And then Castle Howard seems to rise up out of the mists..or at least the out buildings do. I kept waiting for Merle Oberon and Olivier from "Wuthering Heights" to show up and take the tickets!
Despite the weather the actual place is magic probably because so many of us have seen it..or at least some of the exteriors in the "Brideshead" productions. And it doesn't disappoint, either. The grounds seem HUGE and the "great lake" and that Atlas fountain as well as the dome and lantern on the main building itself. Well, you know what I mean.
The interior is loaded with a combination of Greco_Roman statuary, lots of art work including pieces done by at least one former owner and part of the Brideshead interior set. Some of the furnishings are not nearly as rich in texture as those we saw in the Wallace Collection house yesterday, but it's still a great house and the views of the grounds are stunning and soothing in many ways.
Perhaps my favorite part of the interior is the chapel with its wonderful pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows which are claimed to be some of the most beautiful examples of their kind anywhere.
The other thing I enjoyed is the enormous and completely walled "rose garden" which has statuary, a wonderful koi pond, and not only roses but also wonderful hedge ARCHES, herbs, vegetables, and many other flowers still in late bloom. This is a world in and of itself and when we walked through it was pretty much silent since we were the only other visitors there at that moment.
And, of COURSE, there were other visitors inside the house and some outside, too, and more than a few of the latter were accompanied by their dogs (they aren't allowed inside the hose but the place provides bowls of water for them scattered about outside) so I managed to make a few more "new friends" today.
We had a wonderful lunch in one of the outbuildings which has been converted to a combination market (they sell fresh local produce, meats, milk, etc., as well as the usual candy, sweets, Duchy Original goods, etc.). This is a situation we've seen in other houses both elsewhere in Europe as well as in places such as Biltmore, and others in the US. I am sure it is driven as much by economics as anything else.
I had the most delicious white onion and potato soup, among other things, and the service was cheerful and friendly.
We were able to get the local bus back to Malton and spent some time briefly exploring the town. Arrived back in London tonight around 9 PM and this part of Covent Garden isn't much of a "night person" at that hour, either.
Long but rewarding day and the weather's a bit better down here, too <G>.
