Skip the Cinque Terre
 

Reading the messages the CT begins to seem frenetic and combined w/ no bookings yet in Monterosso, I am beginning to think of using that day for another destination. We have a day and night open leaving Florence on May 15th and checking in in Rome on the night of the 16th. Any ideas oh wise travelers? Is Positano reasonable?

Hi Sue,

>Is Positano reasonable?

Not really.

I suggest a visit to Orvieto.

It is on the rail line between Florence and Rome and, among other attractions, is home to a great restaurant: I Sette Consoli
Pzza Sant’Angelo 1A
phone/fax 011 39 0763 343911

There is a link to my photos of Orvieto at http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34552733

((I))

Can you tell us more about your itinerary and interests? If an overnight in the CT seems too rushed, I can't imagine that going all the way down to Positano would be any better.

Positano is way too far away.

You did not say whether you are driving or taking a train.

Since you are going from a big city to another big city, I suggest that you throw in a small city so you can experience life in a small town. If you are driving, I'de recommend Pienza, Montalcino,or Montepulciano. If you are taking a train, then Orvieto (I actually like Siena more, but it's similar to Florence in look & feel).

Stu Dudley

You might also want to consider a day and a night stop at Lucca enroute Florence to Rome. Nice and reasonably priced hotel there is Hotel Diana.

Larry J

I agree with the other replies, Positano is too far. Depends if your driving or train. I agree with Pienza, Montalcino or San Gimignamo. Although that said I would try to stay 2 nights in the CT. We stayed in Moneglia at the Castello di Monleone. A small B+B in a castle associated with the hotel villa Edera.It is close to the train station and great access to the CT hikes. Would also recommend Monterossa as a good place to stay on the CT.

weasel, that place sounds/looks GREAT. I notice they don't have AC. Since we would be there at end of June, I'm wondering if that would be miserable, or if water/breezes make it comfortable without AC. Do you (ore anyone else) know?

the cinque terre (like rue cler) is a rick steves invention. it's lovely but boring and has been since the early 70's when it was truly pristine.

As always great ideas everyone (thanks again Stu!), I'll check out Orvieto and also the Castello di Monleone. We are training about so a little limited by that until we get to France where we'll have a car. I think the small town suggestion as an antidote to big cities is very sound. I'' undoubtedly be asking for more info soon. Thanks again!

Sue,

Another vote for Orvieto. A super easy place to visit via train and a wonderful change from the cities.

We stayed 3 nights in Orvieto and did day trips from there. You will love it!

Buon viaggio!

Hi Sue -- I don't understand the problem with the CT. Are you unable to find a hotel in May? I just booked what looks like 3 lovely double rooms (there are 6 in my party) in Monterosso for two nights in May.

Hi Allison K.just curious..where are you staying in Monterosso? We are looking to return and always interested in suggestions for rooms. Thanks

suehoff: To begin with, I love Orvieto. No argument about going there. But, it is unfortunate that you are being chased away from Cinque Terre. Is it like it was in the early 70s? Of course not. Little in Europe is. But to call it boring? Please! Some people need to be bashed in the face at every moment with something spectacular in order to call a place worthwhile to visit. If one can wander the back streets of these five ancient fishing villages, view the villages from the waters edge or batter yet, the sea, dine after dark at the water's edge in any of the villages, hike the trails from village to village or sit at a water's edge or a hilltop cafe taking in the absolute charm of the area and not find enthusiastic romance of the soul, ... then, they are dead. A great man once said, "there are no boring places, there are only boring people".

I'm spending 4 days in CT in September. Give me a chair, a glass of wine, and a view of the water and I'll be content for hours. I think it will be wonderful!

Stayed in Levanto in late april/ early May and all the wild flowers were blooming along the trails. Enjoyed the hike from Levanto to the uppermost CT town. It wasn`t very crowded. I wouldn`t have missed it! Do go!

Allison -- We have made reservations at Affittacamere Unico in Monterosso. There is information and pictures at http://www.monterossonet.com/eng/str.../da_unico.htm#. I've never stayed there myself (never even been to CT) but I've read positive reviews and from the pictures it looks exactly like what I'm looking for. We will be paying 80 euro a night per double room.

Hi,
I agee that Levanto is a wonderful place to stay if there are no rooms in Monterosso. Levanto is charming. There is a trail that allows you to walk to Monterosso or the train is a five minute ride away. Go for it. The CT is fabulous.

Dear fellow travelers-the problem I'm having is that I only want to book one night. I've tried 8 places now and they are either booked or have the multi-night requirement. We could try our luck and just go and hope to find something (being compulsive as I am sounds risky) or go elsewhere where we can book ahead and only for one night.

I also agree that Positano is not possible, it takes more than half a day just to get there from the Florence area. I do think that Southern Tuscany would make a great stop. I loved Montalcino, but there are many great places in that area - Pienza, Montepulicano. This way you can enjoy the day and half, rather than losing it in travel. If you are set on the CT area, you can stay just outside, there are many great places near portofino, like Camogli. I stayed there and loved it. We trained in from Florence, was easy to get to. Just remember that you will have to go north from florence, and then head back south, less than two days later.

We loved the CT. We based a few days out of Vernazza and just loved the place. I wouldn't spend as much time there now that I've seen it though. Our favorite time there was the hike from vernazza to corniglia and the BEST lunch at Da mananan (sp?) in corniglia. We also liked Riomaggoire (go down to the beach area and take a left around to pebble beach area) They also have a small cafe/bar overlooking the bay area great for a glass of wine and a snack. The ct is mesmorizing. If you skip CT all together I agree with checking out lucca too (best restaurant Baralla) and rent bikes to bike around the wall of the city.

I sure wouldn't go just hoping to find a place. As you've already found out most places are booked or require multiple nights. With your limited time, what's the point of getting there and then spending the whole time looking for a place to sleep?

I wouldn't rule out the Cinque Terre altogether - it isn't too, too crowded in mid-May (yet!). Monterosso al mare has plenty of hotels, you can access a comprehensive list of hotels with telephone/email address information at www.monterossonet.com.

I was in Monterosso mid-September (4 mos ago) and rented a double room with "Affitacamere Unico" (means "rooms to rent") for 60 euros a night. I loved the central location in town, up from the beach and main square/park. In case you are interested in inquiring, here is the information. The owner (Adriano) responded to emails in a very timely manner so I am sure you would get a quick response as well.

UNICO Affittacamere, Via XX Settembre 22, Tel 011.39.0187.817714 Email: [email protected]. Owner is Adriano Rossignoli. The rooms have a large double (queen size?) bed, with bath (shower, blow dryer, toilet) and cost 60 euros a night (payable in euros, no credit cards). Adriano was very friendly and nice. What makes the rooms unico (unique!) in my opinion, is that I felt like a Cinque Terre resident. The property is up a side street in the middle of town, and mixed in with an apt/housing building. He gives everyone keys to the room to keep with you so you can come and go at your leisure without any front desk to disturb.

If you really don't want to go to the CT after all, you might consider:

1) another town near Florence (Siena, Lucca, or even going to the coast - Viareggio, etc), then heading south to Rome on May 16.

2) you could do an overnight in Elba (my favorite!) which is just 1.5 hours' boat ride right off the Tuscany coast and on the way down to Roma. A day and a night there would give you ample time to explore the wonderful town of Portoferraio, see Napoleon's exile home, the charming seaport, etc.

3) Likewise, you could visit a city/town near Rome (Orvieto, etc) as a possibility.

Do let us know what you decide..... :)

Hi Huitres -- The hotel you stayed in is the one I have booked for two nights in May. It looks charming in the pictures on the website. They quoted me 80 Euro a night instead of the 60 Euro you paid, however... But even at 80 Euro we grabbed it because I was afraid of the same thing that suehoff iw running into -- being told that the property is booked just because they don't want you to stay there only a couple of nights (I did have at least one questionable response of that sort and several "no responses").

Huitres -- Everyone seems to have their own opinion about the best town in which to stay in the CT. How did you feel about staying in Monterosso? Would you stay there again or in another town?

Huitres: thanks for the options, it's become a constant debate at home and with our friends who went to the CT 4 years ago loved it and have basically hounded us about going there. I think I've exhausted all the hotels on the Monterosso al Mare site and they are either booked or have the minimum requiremt. So today I've decided to just whine and take no positive action.....:)

joegri...

perhaps i overstated the "boring" aspect of CT. what is boring to me is not necessarily the lack of "things to do" which the five towns provide quite nicely now that they're trendy. it is, in fact, the very trendiness that puts me off.

i would guess it depends upon what one is travelling to see or do that might
define boring.

yes, things have definitely changed since the early 70's but not for the better. an area which formerly was obscure (mostly because it has few mass culturalattractions...museums/significant
archetectural monuments) has now become a travel mecca.

i am a great believer in experiencing the everyday heartbeat of any country's culture as well as its higher acheivements. but it is my opinion one can do neither in the cinque terre now. there never were any monuments of art and what charm of the everyday culture is long gone.

for real everyday mingling i would much more suggest the adriatic coast towns of the marches or, better yet, further south toward bari.

hi suehoff: sorry to hear that you've exhausted all the hotels on the Monterosso al Mare site (booked or have a minimum requirement). Wow, I contacted so many and found them available (mid-Sept) so surprised that they are already full mid-May! If you are open to other towns, I would recommend the Hotel Villa Argentina in Riomaggiore http://www.emmeti.it/Welcome/Liguria.../index.uk.html They are open year-round and have plenty of rooms in the hotel, as well as available properties to rent around town (rooms, apts, etc).

Frankly, you can get away with that minimum requirement thing. My fiance and his family own the aforementioned hotel in the Cinque Terre and there is no minimum. I believe more and more properties (vs the smaller, B&B type) are dropping that rule. The minimum rule is also due in part to the fact that laundry and cleaning is difficult because of the limited water supply lines to/in the CT. Consequently, they don't tend to change out towels daily as you might find hotels do in other cities throughout Europe or in larger, American-style hotel chains. BTW, my fiance came along with my to check out the Monterosso property and liked it very much - gave me a chance to try another town for a change since Monterosso is more child-friendly for my young child (parks and more things to do than in Riomaggiore).

AllisonK: glad that you booked at the 'Unico'. Note that it is not a hotel, but rather rooms located on the 2nd floor inside a residential building up Via XX settembre (a quiet street up from the center of town). The rooms look exactly as they do on the website and are surprisingly modern (for the CT!). They have daily maid service and are well-maintained. The rooms have the feel of your own apartment - that is why I liked them so much. You might try emailing Adriano again and ask if he would consider 60 euros a night...couldn't hurt! He also gives you a discount card that you can use at "Al Carugio" restaurant nearby (20% I think). Re: Monterosso, I like it very much. It and Riomaggiore are my 2 favorite towns in the Cinque Terre. Because it is bigger than the other 4 towns, there tend to be more tourists, but then that means there are more restaurant options!

I think the CT at least deems a visit - even a short one. suehoff, you could just make it a day-trip detour enroute from Florence to Rome if you want to at least what everyone is talking about. If you imagine a coastline similar to the Big Sur in northern California, then you won't be surprised by the craggy, rocky coastline with little or no sandy beaches (just lots of inlets and coves). The area is a nature reserve, protected by the Italian goverment, so fishing in the areas immediately off the coastline are forbidden. I am glad that they are protecting this area, otherwise tourism and commerce would take away all of the simple charm and beauty of the place.

having reread the original post...

not that i have anything against orvieto, but why not try lucca?

Huitres:Despite my whining earlier today I did try two more places in Santa Margherita and I'll try the link you just sent as well. Since we are meeting up w/ our friends in France we will be soundly reprimanded if we skip the CT after all their praise of their trip so I am refreshed for another round of trying hotels. Plus the area really sounds beautiful despite reports of being overwhelmed w/ Rick Steves' groupies. I'd evn take the chance on stumbling on a B and B if I wasn't dragging 15 days worth of clothes....

I am going to CT area in late June for 4 nights and have had no problems (in the last few days) finding many options in the 100-130 euro range. Have booked 2 nights in Santa Margherita and 2 nights in Monterosso, but also had options in Levanto and Riomiaggiore. I also found some B&B's inland a few km that I decided against but seemed very doable...and very cheap (50 euros). Google "Hotels in Ligure" and you will get more options than you need.

I have never been to CT but these postings are making me think that 4 days in the area is too much.

I don't know when Rick Steves began his push to popularize the CT, but I first heard of the area in 1992 when Gourmet Magazine had a story about it with beautiful photographs.

I had never heard of RSteves, but I saved that magazine, and in 1999, I finally got there.

And, believe it or now, we met a couple from New York who were there because they remembered the same magazine story!

So at least some (older?) tourists at the CT are certainly not "Rick Steves groupies."

Byrd

P.S.

The Cinque Terre very much lived up to my expectations.

Champguys,
I am going to the CT for 4 days in September and if I run out of stuff to do or see, I'm hopping the train for a day trip to somewhere. I'm not too worried. I have a photo of Portofino on my computer desktop at the moment and can't imagine being bored.

Oh in case anyone thinks I'm geographically-challenged from my previous post, I am staying in SML and ferrying to CT and other towns along the coast.

Byrd: rereading your reply I'm hoping I didn't offend you with the Rick Steves comment.I was using that as a shortcut way of summarizing negative comments about crowding on the CT from tourists w/ Rick Steves books clutched to their chests. The CT comes highly recommended and we're (actually me my husband's on the sidelines) still trying to work out lodging of some kind so we can hike and enjoy the views!

Sue,

Oh my goodness, no! I was really just saying that some people had "discovered" the CT before RS, so he doesn't get all the credit (or blame)!

Anyway...it's such a charming area. I know you will enjoy it, if and when it works out.

We have tried to work another visit into more recent Italy trips, but have run into the 3-day-minimum problem, too (We did stay three days when we were there}.

Have a wonderful trip.

Byrd