Sicily -- Please critique itinerary
 

Proposed itinerary for 2 "60'ish" folk mid-October 2004:

Day 1 Arrive Catania airport early a.m. Pick up rental car. Drive to Syracuse. Overnight Grand Hotel. Afternoon explore Syracuse.

Day 2 Drive to Piazza Amerina, see villa. Overnight Grand Hotel.

Day 3 Option 1 -- more Syracuse.
Option 2-- drive to Noto and Ragusa.
Overnight Grand Hotel.

Day 4 Drive to Agrigento. See ruins. Overnight Foresteria Baglio della Luna.

Day 5 Drive to Erice, stopping along the way at Selunte and Segesta. Overnite Elimo Hotel.

Day 6 See Erice. Overnight Elimo Hotel.

Day 7 Drive to Palermo, stopping at Monreale. Drop car in Palermo. Overnight at Massimo Palazzo.

Day 8-10 Tour Palermo, stay at Massimo Palazzo.

Day 11 -- Depart early a.m.

Thanks for your thoughts and am very open to suggestions/changes!

This has been the most difficult post to reply to! I started a separate thread to reply to it- now that's gone. Let's see if this works now-

I like your itinerary, but am just wondering if stopping to see Segesta and Selinunte in one day on your way to Erice is too much?? Selinunte is an very expanse area and could take 3-4 hours to see. Maybe on day 6 do Segesta as a day trip from Erice.

My only observation is that I personally would not do Piazza Armerina as a day trip out of Siracusa: it's too far and too tiring, and I would not want to "back track" to Siracusa. Instead, I would be inclined to go to Noto and Ragusa, and end up in Piazza Armerina for the night, continuing the next day to Agrigento. I realize that you've planned for the Grand Hotel in Siracusa (and there is nothing comparable in Piazza Armerina), so it seems that you're returning to Siracusa for the sake of the hotel!

I agree with AP6380 that driving from Agrigento to Erice and seeing Selinunte and Segesta "along the way" is way too much. I know others disagree, but I don't think Erice is worth spending two nights. It's a pretty town but you can see it all in half a day. At night, it's pretty dead (one poster described it as closed tighter than a drum), and you are basically a prisoner there because the drive up to the top of the hill at night is challenging to say the least. Why not find another base in the southwest, such as Selinunte, Porto Palo, Scopello or Castellammare del Golfo, and see Selinunte, Segesta and Erice as day trips over the two-day period? Otherwise, your trip sounds wonderful. I'm jealous. You'll love it.
Roger

Wow -- Thanks for all your help! I did not realize that Selinunte required so much time, so I agree that it would be best to do Segesta as a day trip -- whether from Erice or somewhere else.

Yes, I know it's a long day trip from Syracuse to Piazza Armerina, but we also like to avoid too many "one night stands." But, I am going to re-think that section and hope I can come back to you for more suggestions.

This is a great board!

Trvllvr

I say this all the time, but it's a good plan- you can stay in an area like Sciacca which is a mid-way point between Agrigento and Selinunte. Although the place I stayed at is wonderful & rustic, and that doesn't seem to be what your looking for. Maybe try to locate a 4 star hotel on the southeastern coast so that you can be based there, and do day trips to Agrigento, Selinunte and Erice. Or, if you still stay in Agrigento do Piazza Armerina as a day trip from there.

On my way out of Palermo we stopped at Segesta & Erice on our way to Sciacca. Those two are doable in a day, although when I was in erice it was so foggy you couldn't see 2 feet in front of you and everything was closed!

I really don't see any problem going by rental car from Agrigento to Erice via Selinunte and Segesta, as long as you've already visited the Temples in Agrigento the prior day. Three hours in Selinunte and one hour in Segesta are adequate.

four "middleaged" folks spent 10 days in Sicily mid-October this year. A few observations; we stayed in Syracuse, also at the Grand Hotel, and visited Piazza Armeria en route to Agrigento. Why not do that? We left Siracusa around 10;00 am, spent three hours at Piazza Armerina,arrived Agrigento late afternoon , spent the following day touring the temples, the museum and the old town of Agrigento, ( two nights in Agrigento. ) Be aware that all of Noto
is " under construction"; all of the churches are covered with cloth and scaffolding for the forseeable future; I'd skip it unless that's changed. Also, you are making a huge mistake in skipping Taormina, unless you've already been there. Unless your main reason for going to Sicily is to see all the Greek temples, you may want to skip selinunte, segesta & erice. Here's our itinerary Arr Catania; 3 nights taormina; 2 night Siracusa ( 1/2 day trip to Noto); 2 nights Agrigento ( Piazza Armerina en route ; 3 nights Palermo (Monreale en route); happy to provide more info

Although Noto is still not "presentable" for tourists, owing to the scaffolding, one can and should visit the old town of Ragusa (Ragusa Ibla) which has stupendous baroque churches. One could even travel one way from Siracusa to Piazza Armerina with a stopover in Ragusa Ibla. Of course, the cathedral of Siracusa itself has a very noteworthy Baroque facade, covering an ancient Greek Temple within.

When I read your itinerary, my first thought was that 3 days were two too many in Siracusa. We found the town to be depressing with countless abandoned dogs and doggy doo-doo everywhere. We too arrived early and stayed at the Grand Hotel and just loved it, but we were ready to leave town the next morning. I think Sammie123 might have a good idea. Especially with the Taormina recommendation!

I was really looking forward to Siracusa, but unfortunately couldn't find the charm that other Fodorites had found in that town. In one full day, you can easily see the museum and the Greek theater and the next morning visit the beautiful duomo a short walk from the hotel before check-out.

Another vote for Taormina. Absolutely beautiful place. Can't really comment on Siracusa because I haven't been there, but as others have noted perhaps you could spend less time there to allow for trip to Taormina.

Returned from 8 days in Sicily and the Aeolian Islands 2 weeks ago. I would NOT miss Taormina--somewhat touristy, but one of the most beautiful places I've been to anywhere. Treat yourself to a night at the Hotel Timeo. You won't regret it.

Re Taormina, I thought it was mostly for R&R with the exception of the outdoor theatre? Perhaps I am wrong?

Actually, our main interest is in the archeological ruins -- maybe 'cuz we're starting to look that way ourselves!

I think my basic problem is that there is too much to see, and too little time. I am resigned to having to drop some areas.

Here is a final question. We are spending 3 nights in Malta prior to Sicily trip. Air skeds stink -- choice of 6AM or 4:45PM flight to Catania. If we suck it up and take the 6AM (anyone know how far in advance we would have to be at the airport?), then we could pick up car, drive up to Taormina and return to Syracusa that afternoon. But I wonder if we would be too exhausted to enjoy anything?

Advice requested -- thanks.

I do not know Sicily well, but I have spent 3 days in Taormina and find it one of my favorite destinations in all of Europe--it would be very high on my list.

To answer your question of being tired, I don't think you will. We had a 6:45 am flight out of Sardinia and weren't tired at all. Must be the adrenaline rush. We were up by 4am and arrived at the airport a little less than 1 hour before departure and we were fine time-wise. However, we flew from one Italian island to another, and you are flying from one nation to another. It's possible that the airline may have different requirements for an international flight. I'd check with them.

By the time you land, get your car, get a map or directions to Taormina, then drive there, you'll arrive in time for a cappuccino and a fantastic stroll around a picturesque town. You could even go to the town above Taormina for more views. You'll be tempted to stay a night or two I bet.

Whatever you decide, have a good trip and count your change. A few times in Sicily we had the experience of cashiers making change rapidly-but the change would only be for 10 Euros instead of 20. Irritating!

I'm one of those people that found Syracusa charming and beautiful...I wouldn' cut a day off. I do think that the eastern side of Sicily is more beautiful than the western side, Taormina being a favorite too. I think that you are right in the fact that Taormina is for R&R, you could visit it on day 3. I also agree with the others that think that 2 nights in Erice would be a lot, when I was there I never saw a living person who wasn't a tourist or shop keeper, maybe it is different at night, but I don't think so.I think that it is a 1/2 day trip. Maybe you could do 2 nights at
Foresteria Baglio della Luna and visit Selinunte from there. Tht will leave you with 2 extra nights somewhere else, maybe Taormina at the begining.
We stayed at Massimo Palazzo in Palermo, it was a great 3 star hotel, but not equal to the others you have chosen, are you aware of that?
Also, we found Sicily to be smaller than we thought, and driving faster than we expected, and were able to cover large distances easily.
Have a great time.

I would not recommend a 6;00 am flight,
drive to Taormina for the day and then continue on to Syracuse. That's way too much aggravation (picking up car, parking etc)when tired. I do agree with wantagig about Syracuse; one day is enough to see the ruins and tour Ortygia.You really should not miss Taormina; I was sceptical about its touristy reputation, but was won over by the beauty of the setting and town itself and hated to leave. We stayed in Palermo at the Centrale Palace; great location right at the Quattro Canti, and superb accomodations.Don't miss the little pedestrian street; Principe del Belmonte; lovely cafes to sit and observe the passagiata.

Hi Susanna,

I have already decided to drop 1 night in Syracusa and add 1 in Foresteria Baglio della Luna -- good suggestion! We will visit Plaza Armerina on way to Agrigento, rather than return to Syracusa, per others' suggestion.

I chose Massimo Palace for it's location, but also thought it was 4*. We will drop car when we get to Palermo, so central location is important -- any suggestion for an alternative, better hotel?

Thanks again to all for great suggestions.

Read my review of the Hotel Massimo Plaza in Palermo. It is not four stars, but it's a great choice (and it ain't cheap, either). Rooms facing Via Maqueda face directly onto the Teatro Massimo and its grand staircase (remember the ending of the Godfather III movie?)

Sammie123 -- Thanks for your rec on the Centrale Palace -- it looks really nice and we will probably stay there (no offence to GAC re Massimo Plaza).