Sicily or Puglia for 9 days
 

Hi all-- I'm trying to plan a trip for early September for my husband and me. We will by flying from NYC and will have about 8 or 9 nights in Italy. We just are not sure where to go! We'd like some beaches, culture in terms of old villages and lively restaurants, and outdoor adventure, but don't care so much for historical sites and museums. We really want somewhere we can relax, take in beautiful scenery, maybe do some hiking, and wander around the towns. I was thinking of either Eastern Sicily or Puglia. A friend went to Puglia and loved the culture of it, but it doesn't seem to be that beautiful in terms of the natural scenery. I love the look of the Amalfi Coast, but just don't want to deal with the tourists and the inflated prices. Any thoughts/advice on which place to pick or favorite spots in those regions would be great. Thanks so much!

**I posted this in Europe but realized it should go in Italy. I couldn't figure out how to switch it once it posted, so I'm sorry for the re-post!

Both of those are not easy to access and are less tourist friendly. I would look at the Dolomites and Lake Garda that time of year if you want natural beauty and some relaxing.

europesept2012,

there is no italy forum. the europe forum [and others] allows you to tag your thread to assist other fodorites, eg with a country name. However all threads posted on the europe forum are shown together.

Is it your first time in Italy? I don't consider either Puglia or Sicily to be a good introduction to Italy, but if you have been before, my vote goes to Sicily.
There is a lot to see and do, Syracuse, Taormina, Noto, Modica, are all very close together.
http://www.google.ca/search?q=ortigi...w=1024&bih=672


If you care to go to Cefalu for a few days there are beautiful drives through the Madonie mountains, where you can also hike.

http://www.back2mine.net/index.php/g.../category/165/

You can fly into Catania, and it's not far from beautiful and busy Taormina, where you will find a beach, fine restaurants, picturesque setting and relaxation. Also, if you get up early (to avoid the tour bus loads of people) you can go see the Greek theatre with its amazing views over the coast and Mt Etna.

http://www.taormina.it/introduction

By the way once you get to Taormina, it is a traffic free, pedestrianized, zone, so no stress.
In general, we found Sicily to be a cheaper option than the North of Italy, although Taormina, as a world class resort, is more expensive (not overly so, though).

Just be prepared that Sicily is not as "refined" as northern Italy.

One of our most memorable and fun trips to Italy was a 10 day trip to Sicily. Your description of what you are looking for is great and describes Sicily perfectly. We had lots of fun and spent very little time in museums. The food was great, the weather (mid September) was perfect, the scenery amazing and the people wonderful.

If you are experienced Italy travelers, Sicily would be a great trip. If this is your first trip to Italy, you might be better off following the advice of Bob the Navigator.

I loved Sicily! We were there in September and it is very brown in the hillsides , but still very scenic. Taormina was very crowded, but otherwise it was delightful. It is very different from Rome & Florence and all the other popular places, but it is beautiful with much to c and wonderful food and friendly people. I would go there before I go to the Dolomites, which I liked a lot and is very pretty. Lake Garda is not a favorite of mine.

We've been to Italy before. Florence, Rome, Venice, Cinque Terre. We don't like super touristy places, so Lake Garda didn't really appeal to me. I think we want something off the beaten path

You will certainly find far fewer tourists in Sicily. Even in Taormina, you just have to get off the main street, and it is surprisingly quiet.

Syracuse was my favorite, the old part, on the island of Ortigia, is a very atmospheric place to stay. It is a little bit quieter, though, at least it was in early October when we were there. Many more locals than tourists.

In Puglia, the Adriatic Coast is beautiful, and the rolling hills around Locorotondo, but, unless you are a foodie, there is much more variety in Sicily. I hated to leave.

some parts of the coast of puglia are gorgeous. some of the gargano peninsula compared to the amalfi-- without all the gorgeous cliffside buildings. we just got back from puglia-- see my report and ask if you have any specific questions. we loved it.

kawh, not meaning to sound negative about Puglia. We also loved it, but toured Sicily just before arriving in Puglia. In terms of the variety of landscapes (Mt Etna) and lively cities, we found Puglia to be quieter, maybe just because it was mid-October.

EuropeSept2012, I'm sure you would find either of these choices relaxing and with far fewer tourists than Florence or Rome.
And the food is very good, in both Puglia and Sicily :)

Kawh's trip report is very enjoyable and gives a realistic feel for Puglia.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...a-loved-it.cfm

Here's another

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-splendido.cfm

Have fun planning!

sundried- how does the driving in Sicily compare to Puglia?

We found Puglia driving fine on the whole and quite keen to visit sicily at some point too?

Hi HG: Driving in Sicily is fine outside the urban centers. But in and around the cities, pretty hair-raising.

To the OP: Beaches are much better in Puglia than in Sicily. That is not to say that there are not some pretty beaches in Sicily, but overall, MUCH better ones in Puglia. The most arresting physical beauty of Puglia is to be found mostly along the coastline; the inland areas are more pastoral, flat or slightly rolling landscapes dotted with massive olive trees that are gorgeous to look at.

I do not agree with the comment above that Puglia is not tourist friendly....or difficult to access.
Can't understand that, at all...

europe/sept -i am facing the same conundrum, only in my case, there's a third place in the mix!

at the moment i'm leaning towards Sicily, mainly because DH prefers the idea of going there - he too has been seduced by inspector montalbano! [but possibly not for the same reasons as me].

sundried - if i want to see Ortiga/Syracuse, Ragusa and Agrigento, could i fit that into a 10-12 day trip? [probably flying into Catania if i can work out how to get there from here!]

ps - apparently BA fly into Catania from Gatwick, and i can fly to Gatwick from our local airport only 30 mins away, so that would be a definite option.

pps - sorry europe, for hijacking your thread.

I'd start another, but if you decide on Sicily, i suspect that we'll be asking the same Qs!

Ann: You could easily do that in your time frame.

how many days would you dedicate to each, ek?

anything else I really ought to see that I'm missing?

Ann I agree totally with Eks about driving in Sicily. Palermo was a bit crazy, and we bypassed Catania, so didn't find it bad all in all.
I have read in other posts that you can arrange transfers from Catania airport to Taormina. No need of a car while you are there. You could pick up a rental car when you leave Taormina.
Another poster mentioned that Europcar will drop off your rental by your hotel in Taormina (for a charge) so you don't have to taxi down the hill to the rental agency.

We spent 4 nights in Syracuse but used it as a base for seeing Noto, Modica, etc. If you stay at Ragusa for a few nights, then 3 would be plenty for Syracuse.
Although the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is a must-see, the only other thing we saw there was the Scala dei Turcchi sp? which was really cool but a scramble down the hill.
http://www.google.ca/search?q=scala+...w=1024&bih=672

The area around Agrigento is not thrilling, so most people say 2 nights there is enough.

Eks did you go to Taormina? Did you like it? My husband loved it, as he likes to people watch, and it was a break from driving as well. I loved, loved the views, the gardens there, and the whole town really is very photogenic. I would recommend it.

There are a number of trip reports from Sicily, including one from Bob....

Yes, I've been to Taormina on two different Sicily trips. The physical beauty is outstanding but I think 2 days there would be plenty. I stayed both times at Villa Belvedere. Great views of Etna, and beautiful public areas, but guest rooms are only so so, at least in the moderate categories.

We rented a car the second time from Avis; the rental agency is within the town so no need to taxi to the location. We dropped it off and took a taxi to Catania airport at the end of the trip.
We had only a week and began in Palermo.

I've written two trip reports about Puglia (click on my name to find) but none on Sicily; my most recent trip was about 2005 or so so kind of outdated by now....

thanks, sundried and ek, for the help and the tips.

i suppose i need to do some research and start my own thread!

Thanks, all! This is very helpful. I am leaning toward Sicily, because of the mountainous areas...I love the idea of hiking near Mt. Etna but also have beaches, even if they aren't so great. Though now I am considering Lake Garda again, even though my husband thinks it's too touristy. Or we might change it all up and go to Spain. :) But I'll do some more research and check back in. Thanks!

europe - Garda WILL be touristy in Sept - it is a very lovely place but the experience of visiting it, or any of the other italian lakes, is quite different to the sort of touring you are likely to do in Sicily or Puglia.

we spent a week in the town of Garda itself a few years ago, and used the boats and buses to get around, so there was no need for a car. it was nice coming back to Garda every day, but we had our kids with us so that made a difference to what we wanted to do - we weren't interested in bus journeys to Verona or Padua both of which were available, as well as Venice of course.

if i were going to make this into a more dare I say "adult" trip, I might fly into Venice, then hire a car and tour Verona, Padua, Manuta and Vicenza before ending with a few days relaxing by the lake.

Just seconding what annhig says about the "adult" trip. We loved our trips to just the places she mentions. Of course Sicily was fabulous too -- very different than the North of Italy. Will be in Puglia this fall so can't address that.

I'm back! I've re-read all these responses and Sicily is back on the table. We will have about 9 days and are trying to figure out an itinerary. We really care most about natural beauty and outdoor activities, and about exploring small towns and villages on foot. I don't feel the need to see every historical site. One thing I'm interested in is possibly including an island, either one of the Aeolians or Pantelleria since they seem beautiful and quaint, which we love. I know that means cutting out some of Sicily proper, but I'm curious if you all think it is worth it? How difficult is that to do.

I have read some about Sicily being difficult, and I don't quite know what that means. We have traveled all over including backpacking in South America so I am not really worried, but I also want this trip to be relaxing and beautiful and not full of obstacles. Thanks all!

I have read some about Sicily being difficult, and I don't quite know what that means. >>

how i interpret it is that you can't expect everything to be laid on a plate for you - you'll need to do some research in advance, be prepared for things not to go to plan, and to have to ask questions when you are there. As you have back-packed in S. America, it shouldn't present too many problems.

as for the islands, i don't know about how easy they would be as we've not got there yet, but as you won't have enough time to see the whole of sicily in 9 days, you won't be missing some of it, so much as some more of it. with that sort of time scale available, i think that I would feel inclined to pick one area which interested me most [closest to the island/s you fancy] and explore that, rather than trying to see it all which is impossible anyway.

English is not as prevalent as in anywhere Amalfi Coast and north. Some parts of Sicily almost feel Third World. We did encounter pickpockets on the bus to Monreale from Palermo.
I wouldn't let that any of that stop me from going back.

If you can get your hands on the Footprint guide to Sicily, I found it really inspiring. It covers Sicily in regions, including the islands.
Michelin Green Guide fills in details alphabetically.

Here are a few trip reports you might enjoy.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-and-rain.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...a-430523-2.cfm

And this one begins in the Aiolian islands ( haven't been there...yet)

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...h-in-italy.cfm

EuropeSept, there are ferries and hydrofoils that go to the Aeolian Islands from several towns along the northern and NE coast of Sicily - Palermo, Cefalu, Milazzo, to name a few. The shortest distance is from Milazzo.

And the ferries travel inter-island as well. I did a day trip from Milazzo to Lipari, Vulcano and Stromboli and it was quite enjoyable. So, if you don't want to take too much time away from the Sicilian mainland, there is an option to at least get a taste of one or several islands. I took a bus from Taormina to Milazzo when I went.

I know you mentioned NE Sicily - and IMO, you can't go wrong no matter where you go on the island - but NW Sicily also has a lot to offer in the way of beaches, quaint towns - Mondello beach just outside of Palermo, Capo San Vito, Erice. You can't see everything in 8 or 9 days, but you can see a lot.

I don't know what anyone means by Sicily "being difficult". I have been there many times and have never had problems getting around or being understood.

I first went there 30 years ago when tourism was much less than it is now, and before I learned to speak Italian. My friend and I got along fine with a phrase book and had nothing but pleasant, fun experiences. I have always used public transportation in Sicily but will rent a car the next time I go, to explore some of the more remote places.

Puglia and Sicily are the places of my heritage, so I'm honored that you were considering both. :-) Don't discount Puglia for a future trip. It has lovely scenery, which I describe as "quietly beautiful".
My favorite part was the Gargano Peninsula but the drive along the heel to Santa Maria de Leuca is stunning. And the food is delicious and unique.
Sicily and Puglia are two of the more exotic parts of Italy having been invaded from the north and the mideast, and comprising elements of a variety of cultures.

Thanks all! I think we will probably stick with either Eastern Sicily or just Taormina and the Aeolians. The one thing is I would love to stay at Azienda Agricola Madranova in Agrigento. Could I do this possible itinerary with about 8 nights?

Fly into Cantania
Taormina and Etna
Modica
Agrigento
Back out of Catania

I know we are not seeing that many places, but we imagine stopping along the way to see other things. It looks like Syracuse is between Taormina and Modica. We really are not looking to cram in too much. We want mostly natural beauty, beautiful views of the water, interesting towns, relaxation and some hiking if possible.

Other option is:

Fly into Catania
Head to Aeolians (probably Salina) for 4 nights
back to Taormina for 4 nights and do day trips from there
Fly out of Catania

Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!

only that i want to read the answers!

I vote for Sicily as it is one of my most favorite places on earth for its wonderful people,marvelous food and scenery;great history,shopping and wine!
Having been to Sicily numerous times and a daughter who lived there for awhile, Taormina to me is like the Wisconsin Dells-too many tourists,tacky shops,etc. Yes the theatre is fabulous but there are sooooo many other fabulous spots in Eastern Sicily that you would enjoy more.Four nights there is 3 nights too many!
If you are only going to do the Eastern side, then base yourself in Ortigia(the old part of Siracusa-magical!)1 mile by 1 1/2 miles surrounded by water and a car/walking bridge to the mainland of Siracusa and the ruins for a few days.Possibly stop and do a daytrip with Geoexplorer out of Catania to Etna if it isn't smoking and then head up to the Aeolians for a few days before heading back to Catania?
Just remember that Sicily is what Tuscany was 40 years ago before the American tourists ruined it-go now before it changes. Just saying...

thanks, dutyfree. just what I was waiting for.

Annhig - Sicily is on our list for next year...maybe we should meet up haha

I will drive so you two can drink :)

Dutyfree - you are on!!

Annhig - Sicily is on our list for next year...maybe we should meet up haha>>

when are you thinking of going, jamikins? we will need a chauffeur, obviously!

Thinking sept....and I think Dutyfree just volunteered chauffeur services!!

I completely agree with dutyfree, both about loving Sicily, and about spending time in Ortigia rather than Taormina.

However, based on the OPs interests, I might suggest the west coast rather than the east, especially Erice and the Zingaro National Reserve.

I'll add my TR to the list:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ing-sicily.cfm

and photos of Erice:
http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/S...aly-2008/Erice

While Taormina is definitely tourist-filled, it is beautiful! When I was there, the main street was shoulder-to-shoulder people, so I stepped to a parallel road, which I found almost (and wonderfully) empty - lovely! So I visited the main street at night, after day-trippers left. I used my day time hours for the theater, a visit to Castelmola and down to Isola Bella, and roaming around the back streets of town. For my 2nd day in the area, I joined a group tour of Mt. Etna and the Gole Alcantara; I found both fascinating.

Like so many others, I also adored Ortygia and was glad to spend a couple of days there. It's also a good base for Noto and the Baroque towns.

Agrigento has some amazing ruins and also a very good museum. And it has a small, interesting medieval core that many people skip.

I spent part of a day in Lipari. Lovely, but not the kind of place I prefer to visit for more than a day as I don't generally travel in search of relaxation.

I haven't visited Catania or Modica yet.

It's a beautiful part of the world, so you should have some wonderful experiences no matter which places you choose. Hope this helps!