flwrjen

mcles--that sounds like a great trip--and also you took 3 weeks to do what I am thinking about for 10 days...I've been reading Whitehall's TR--it's great--thank you! It's good to know that some know that Modica and Noto are available by public transport.

valgachi--Thanks for putting in a good word for Catania--I'm sure I'd enjoy it for a day or two.

flwrjen

annhig--that sounds like it might be the right thing. With so little time for Sicily I want to minimize travel time. And Ragusa Ibla looks amazing.

annhig

<<annhig--that sounds like it might be the right thing. With so little time for Sicily I want to minimize travel time. And Ragusa Ibla looks amazing.>>

it is indeed extraordinary - though getting into and out of it can be a bit of an ordeal as can parking! We stayed in a B&B in the centre which has several different locations dotted around the town along with a central breakfast room and garden with the most fabulous views, but an easier choice might be a place at the bottom of the town near the gardens so that you don't have to drive through the middle of it. There is a bus you can catch to the top if you don't fancy walking.

Leely2

I would naturally vote for the option that most closely mimics my own past trip (Option A) because for me Palermo is not to be missed...but you say you like slow travel, and only Option C looks like slow travel to me. I'll admit Option A does involve a lot of driving. (It's gorgeous driving, though!)

In any case, for us Palermo with its astounding mix of cultures, Greek sites and Sicilian Baroque were ALL priorities, so we had to do some driving to squeeze them all in.

I am sure you will enjoy whatever you do. Buon viaggio!

zebec

Flwrjn, for your section 'C' maybe check out the Madonie-area village Petralia Soprano.
if you might want, I have some excellent rentals to recommend in both Palermo plus Cefalu. The former is a real palazzo owned by the nephew of the author of 'The Leopard'. His wonderful wife also offers great cooking classes. The main square apartment in Cefalu is just OK, but the view from its communal upper patio is world-class---such views looking across to the Duomo!
All the best.
I am done. the end.

flwrjen

annhig, Just when I think I've settled on one thing, I get lured by another.Ragusa Ibla really sounds like a must see!

flwrjen

Leely2--I've decided that Palermo is a must-see for us. There are so many must-sees in Sicily, that it's taking time to sort through them and decide which we can fit in, but also must-sees for us. My current thoughts involve Cefalu, through the Madonie Mountains to Trapani, then back to Palermo.
But then I read comments like annhig's on Ragusa Ibla and I am lost again.

Zebec--for some reason Petralia Soprano has been on my radar for a while. I am definitely interested in those mountain villages. If we were to drive from Cefalu to Castelbuono and the two Petralias, then on to Trapani, would it make send to spend a night in a Madonie village? I've heard that the food there has some unique aspects. Also, do you know if it's typically rainy there in March? Sorry for all the questions. I've had trouble finding people familiar with the Madonie villages. Thank you for your accommodation recommendations--I may get back to you!

annhig

<<Leely2--I've decided that Palermo is a must-see for us. There are so many must-sees in Sicily, that it's taking time to sort through them and decide which we can fit in, but also must-sees for us. My current thoughts involve Cefalu, through the Madonie Mountains to Trapani, then back to Palermo.
But then I read comments like annhig's on Ragusa Ibla and I am lost again. >>

My apologies, flwrjen - the hardest decision is choosing what to leave out I know. Certainly if you concentrate on the area around Palermo and the west of Sicily you will have a wonderful trip i have no doubt, with less driving. OTOH it is certainly possible to drive from Palermo to Ragusa in a day [though I estimate that it would take rather longer than the 4 hours that google maps suggests] and I'm sure that once you got there you would love it. In the end only you know what calls to you most and what you are prepared to do to achieve it.

zebec

Yo FLW, no need for any apologies, that's what our forum is made for.
We skipped Castelbuono by design, in order to spend more time in our daytrip tp Petralia Soprano. Full disclosure: we are both mad travel photographers and what lured us there to begin with was the unique zig-zag path that runs out the village's back end, down through some trees. We always think 'green' when recalling PS. A unique foto op.
As for rainy days, I would guess that its a possibility in March. It was spring for us and I had just retired.
Happy to pass along accommodation contact info.

I am done. the isle
*PS note that the friendly poster 'Lucapal' (over on the recent Reddit reincarnation of Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree forum) lives in Palermo and is a great source for local travel info. You could conceivably join that forum then ask him about things. Satisfaction guaranteed. Lucapal is actually one the main moderators there as well.

flwrjen

Thanks Zebec. I just took a look at your Jordan trip report--the photos are stunning!

zebec

De Rien. Btw, just some clarification. That Palermo palazzo includes several apartment rentals located within. We have experience in 2 different apartments there.
In other words---- we did not rent the whole palazzo!
Merci pour les mots Jordan. Am currently finishing off similar reports for our pair of recent trips: England and Quebec.

I am done. the itinerary

zebec

Yo yo FLW, if you might want to look at the setting for the above-mentioned 'Cefalu main square apartment' (with that view), one can see it on SCRB's most recent post on Flygirl's 'What are you watching' thread. SCRB's post includes a link to an article, the very final foto of which is an image of that same square. The apartment (there are actually a trio) is seen far right, directly above the palm tree. Another Fodorite's recent TR foto also shows that same Cefalu scene--was it Progol or maybe MelnQ8?
I am done. the just sayin

flwrjen

Hi Zebec--can you give me names or links of the places to stay that you mentioned? Thanks!

zebec

Avec plaisir.
1) butera28.it This is the site for the Palermo palazzo apartment rentals. The wife Nicoletta is the brains of the outfit, so deal with her alone. Her cooking classes are a lot of fun. She and I developed a good repoire so I once took the piss during one such class. She commanded me to go fetch her forgotten kitchen tech device from a room on a different floor. I used that task as an opportunity to have a brief unchaperoned palace tour. Upon my return, I pretended to be Neanderthal while gazing quizzically at the ancient, crude hammer that I'd also found along with the desired tech device. Hiding the modern device from her view, 'the caveman' acted as though he'd been incapable of locating the desired item and had 'substituted' the hammer instead. The stunt was a good icebreaker for all involved in the class.

2) the following Cefalu info is now 10 years old but...
Francesco Barrale: mob. 39 3930263122
email: [email protected] fax 0921.925074. Our apartment was the 'Federico' and it was fine but lacked the tiny laundry corner that some of their other apartment units had. The aforementioned terrace is a large communal one--bring your camera. Incidentally, did you know that some scenes from 'Cinema Paradiso' were filmed in Cefalu?
Finally, some pronunciation: Petralia Soprano= 'peh-tray-lia....'

We'll soon post a link to a good article about the Palermo palazzo itself.

I am done. the gattopardo

zebec

Yo FLW, my lengthy response post to you just now (which included all your asked-about info) was immediately zapped as I pressed 'Post Quick Reply'. That was frustrating. Dunno, perhaps the links were perceived as ads by the site system? Deep sigh...
Will PM you instead.
I am done. the computer controls

flwrjen

We worked it out so we can go for ten nights in April-from 4/21-4/31, flying into Catania and out of Palermo. Current plans are Ortigia 3 nights, Modica or Ragusa Ibla 3 nights, Palermo 4 nights.:

Friday 4/21: arrive Catania early afternoon, take bus or car service to Ortigia. Stay in Ortigia 3 nights. (possible day trip to Noto)

Monday 4/24: pick up rental car in Siricusa, drive to Modica or Ragusa Ibla--can't decide!, (maybe stop in Noto for lunch) stay 3 nights. Visit the one we don't stay in and maybe Scicli or the coast.

Thursday 4/27: Drive to Palermo, return car, stay 4 nights. Day trips to Monreale and Cefalu.

I have always stayed in hotels, but am looking at Air B&B's there are so many charming ones, and I've been hearing such positive things from those who have stayed in them in Sicily. I will check out hotels too. Please let me know if you have any thoughts or recommendations.

Thank you! Jennifer

valgalchi

We stayed in Modica & visited Ragusa & Scicli from there. We loved Modica. We stayed at an apartment called I Balconi sul Barocco. Nothing fancy, it felt like a real Italian apartment but it had a little outside area where we had our coffee in the morning and a small garage down the street to keep the car. We booked it on booking.com. We enjoyed dinners at Fichera 7117 - Dabbanna, Fuoco dei Mori and I Lupini.

In Palermo we stayed at an apartment we found on AirBnB- ★U Nicu★ Romantic gateaway - Private Patio - Wifi. Again nothing fancy but it also had an outside area and was in a good location. Very limited english from the mother that met us to give the keys. We enjoyed dinners at Gianni Ristorante and Osteria Trabucco (we ate at Osteria Trabucco for lunch and then returned another night for dinner).

Both apartments had clothes washers (why we tend to book apartments).

In Ortigia we enjoyed Retroscena and Osteria Del Vecchio Ponte (just across the bridge in Syracuse) for dinner and Cala Piada for lunch.

mcsles

Jennifer, I don’t remember if you set a dollar amount per night stay. We loved our stay in Ragusa Ilba. The Ragusa a.d. 1768 boutique hotel was amazing, breakfast every morning was spectacular. Located in the middle of the town surrounded by great restaurants. We parked our car overnight in the parking lot near the Giardino Ibleo. Make an effort to eat lunch at I Banchi. Great food and the breads and pasta at the checkout counter are delicious.
We also loved our stay in Palermo at the Palazzo Napoli Boutique Hotel. Excellent location, great room and delicious breakfast. We took the bus from airport and got off on the last stop. Walked half a mile to hotel. The next door Caffe del Kassaro was so good and inexpensive we ate there twice for lunch. So excited for you.
Mike

flwrjen

Valgachi and mcsles: thank you so much for your recommendations! I am currently on the hunt for food recommendations---meals, snacks, shops, markets, and made notes of yours.

We've settled on Ortygia 3 nights, Modica 3 nights and Palermo 4 nights. There were so many wonderful air b&bs (at good prices!) that I've decided to give them a try. Getting excited!