SEVILLA and COSTA DE LA LUZ, MARCH 2025...FOCUS ON FOOD
 

I left Miami (very difficult, very large airport) bound for Sevilla on Saturday 7 March. Flight on Iberia (business class) was fine and I even managed a few hours of sleep.
For the first time I ordered fish (lubina) for my dinner and it was surprisingly edible, served with pureed butternut squash.

We arrived early in Madrid (MAD) airport, and I had four hours to spend in the lounge before connecting to Sevilla (SVQ). Nice to be able not to worry about making a connection.
The experience at the Madrid airport--both the lounge and the walk to the gate) was so far superior, with none of the worry that I had in Miami.

I do not like the Miami airport!. I had spent the waiting time in MIA's AMEX lounge where seating was scarce and the food selection was much diminished from last year. I do not recommend going the extra distance needed to reach the Centurion Lounge if you depart from Miami...not worth the long walk with TWO train rides to get to the gate. Disappointing. (Coincidentally, I sat on the plane near a woman who works for Amex Platinum and she told me that she had had many, many complaints about that same Miami airport Centurion Amex Lounge)

But.....I was on my way to Spain,so all this is just tiny detail.

Landed a half an hour early in Madrid, and also landed early, about 12 noon, in Sevilla. I took a taxi from the Sevilla airport (no waiting time-- exist the terminal and the taxi ranks right outside; white taxis) to my hotel, PALACIO DON RAMON. Taxi is fixed price, about 28 euro-plus change (this was a Sunday). Paid with credit card, as I always do in Spanish taxis. Did not tip.

The hotel is near perfect for me. It's a renovation of an old palace with about 15 rooms, if that, arranged around an inner, tiled courtyard replace with greenery...... belonging to the KAIZEN GROUP and opened in 2023.

I've stayed at the KAIZEN property in Jerez, HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA, and will do so again at the end of this trip. If you care to splurge in Sevilla, this is the place. Great location a block from El Corte Ingles, a few minutes walk to Las Setas and to Canabota restaurant and bar, down the street from an ice cream shop that the front desk person lauds as among the best in the city (Bolas..will check this out). The location is much better than Sevillas's grade dame, ALFONSO XIII, which now flies the Marriott flag.

I imagine there are about 15 rooms here, each one following one of three styles: Modern, Arabic, Mozarabic. If you are a style fanatic, this is your place...every little detail from the reading lights to the inset tile floors to the heated towel rack.....you've got all the conveniences in a gorgeous envelope. the butter at the breakfast table has been left out long enough to soften. Little details!

Here are a few photos off the hotel; as you can imagine, it is at the top of the Sevilla price range but so far it's been worth it for me. My only slight disappointment was not to have more local products at breakfast (included with my rate). Why offer brie instead of payoyo cheese???? But that's such a tiny nitpick that I should feel ashamed!! Everyone here is super welcoming, not surprising that all staff that I've encountered cone from elsewhere, with exception of one older waiter at breakfast. Housekeeper hails from Hondura, bell "boy" from Foggia, Puglia (we had fun speaking about Gargano.). Front desk woman from Buenos Aires, etc.....Lots of fun to chat with them all!!

To summarize, although I've spent only one night here, so far I enthusiastically recommend for a splurge hotel in Sevilla and, if you head for Jerez, equal enthusiasm for their sister hotel, HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA, which I will spend my last night in Spain before flying back to the US later this month. (Kaizen also has a hotel in El Rocio, Huelva, Andalucia)




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Gorgeous floors in public areas..stone inset into cement..must find out details
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Stone and brick set into cement (?). The first thing that struck me as I entered the hotel for the first time.
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Lobby with reception desk at far left
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Breakfast, taken in the Orange Patio; elect from the menu and choices are brought to your table...lovely setting and impeccable service.



A big impediment for me is THE WEATHER!! Much of Spain is being hit by heavy rains and flooding. There were tornados last night in Sevilla province. So walking around is less pleasant than in the past. Weather changes..one minute there is a bit of sun and it's very warm..just cotton shirt weather. In the proverbial blink of an eye, heavy rains!
I hate carrying an umbrella, but I needed one for a few minutes of every hour I spent wandering around this morning. There have been major highways cut, near Ronda/Malaga, and people killed by mudslides and rushing rivers...... And the forecast is for more of the same for at least the next week.

But I'm here in Sevilla! And it's not so unpleasant relaxing in my room and eating....and posting this!!

My first dinner in Sevilla, last night, was at the superb BARRA BAJA. II was fortunate to be able to dine with Shawn Hennessy, who writes the premier food blog about Sevilla, in English. She is THE authority about where to dine in this city, which has been her home for more than twenty years.

We began with cava at a lovely bar across from y hotel, before moving to bar seats at BARRA BAJA, down the street. I LOVED this restaurant!!!! We were served by the Owner/Chef, Rafa Lian, who runs tha restaurant with his partner, Patri Molaner who was also much in evidence during our dinner. (Both worked with Super Chef Dani Garcia in his multi-starred Mucihlin eatery in Marbella) and their skills reflect their training.

This is a small restaurant, with eight seats along the bar, which offer great views of the food preparation and a chance to talk with the chef. There are a few tables in the small dining room but I liked sitting at the bar.

We had a booking for 8:30 and were the second party seated. it was not until abut 10pm that the place began to fill (Sunday night; good to keep in mind on a day when many place re closed for dinner). Definitely book ahead; you an do this on their website:

https://barrabajarestaurante.com

More details after I rest my fingers!!!

Wow! I am along for this ride!

Yahoo - Eks is back on the road! Looking forward to following your adventures.

My first dinner in Sevilla, at the wonderful restaurant BARRA BAJA, where I was joined by erudite and charming Shawn Hennessey, of who has lived in Seville for thirty years (not the twenty that I wrote, earlier). I could not have hoped for better company, and we just had a LOT of fun together:

https://shawnhennessey.substack.com/...utm_medium=web


https://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/barra-baja/


Dinner at BARRA BAJA--highly recommended!

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There are eight seats along the bar and this is the best place to sit, so you can watch the chefs work their magic. Book online and ask for bar seating; see my white Costco rain jacket draped over the back of my chair
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Spectacular Gillardeau oysters--each of us had one with sherry/butter sauce and the other, my favorite, with a cold sauce of cucumber and dill...I will be ordering more oysters from now on....
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Almejas (clams) in a sherry butter sauce...excellent1
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One of the best fish dishes I've had recently--these are chunks of monkfish tail with terrifically fresh sautéed spinach...
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Owner/Chef Rafa (who owns BARRA BAJA with his partner, Patri,) putting the finishing touches on a brulled, flattened leek; I have this on my list for next time.... Rafa was most welcoming and happy to discuss details of the dishes he prepared in front of us.



The total bill for two of us: 96 euro. We shared the dishes and consumed a total of SIX glasses of cava and sherry. A memorable evening, both for the food and the company!


​​​​​​​https://barrabajarestaurante.com

My second dinner in Sevilla took place at AZOTEA, one of my favorite restaurants in Spain. I first dined there in 2012 and have returned quite a few times since then, even as they changed locations. It's just a great place...superb food and very friendly service. Dinners during the week are served across the street from the main restaurant, at AZOTEA LA TIENDA, but the cooked food is brought across the narrow street from the kitchen of the main restaurant.

The one disappointing dish were the navajas, the razor clams, with little pale green beans; I ordered a half-portion (media racion) but the clams were overcooked and on the tough side. No matter here; as soon as I pointed this out to my wonderful long-time Azotea waiter, Diego (I love you, you handsome guy!!). he agreed with me and immediately took this dish off my bill, without me asking. My next two dishes were excellent!!! A trio of large red prawns from Andalucia, served head on so I could get every last morsel of the juice out of the shells (why, oh, why do restaurants in the US serve shrimp without the heads????? Well, we know why but will not go there right now......I think it's a culinary sin but I am writing this at the risk of being made fun of....)

My next dish was one I've had before, at the one-year-old AZOTEA location in the beach town of EL PALMAR DE VEJER; I'm heading to this area at the end of this week but the el Palmar location does not open until early April so I'll miss it this year..... This dish is a version of the Tunisian pastry, Brik, made with [phyllo dough. In Tunisia I've had it stuffed with eggs and harissa. At AZOTEA the Brik is stuffed with a creamy white cheese and chunks of shrimp...and covered with a wonderful sauce made from pureed red peppers and maybe a tiny touch of harissa. I love this dish and could have it every day for breakfast. Every single day!!!! Or for dinner!! There is no person in the world who would not like this, I don't think.


With one glass of palo cortado (wine from Jerez--sherry to English speakers) my bill totaled 31 euro. That's about 33 US dollars.



Here are photos of my dishes, and the exterior of the restaurant, on a very rainy night in March:


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Chalkboard listing daily specials; most staff speak perfect English
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Seating available along the bar, as well as at high top tables.
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Bread, olives and the menu, which is augmented by the daily specials
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My less-than-successful razor clams, which were eliminated from my bill even though I had eaten half of this "half order."
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Wonderful, meaty red prawns from Andalucia
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Brik pastry filled with creamy white cheese and hefty chunks of prawns...you need to call them for reservations for most dates; see their website for details--https://laazoteasevilla.com/es_es/
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Exterior of AZOTEA TIENDA on this rainy night in March



I'll take a moment to mention the weather which seems to be very unusual for this time of year. This week and next are predicted to be very rainy, with flooding rivers, including the Guadalquivir which slices through the city of Sevilla. It's been raining hard one minute and sunny the next, but the predominant weather is cloudy and drizzly, interspersed with hard rain. BUT it's not cold so does not really impact anything except perhaps for photographers. As I've mentioned so many times, I bring along my trusty white rain jacker purchased at Costco for about $12. and it looks fine and has a hood which eliminates the need to carry a clumsy umbrella (The hotel, of course, offers these for guests but then you only have one hand to browse in markets or shops or to take photos on your phone....)

This afternoon I went to an exceptionally great 5pm flamenco show at the MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO. It was fantastic and I arrived early; not early enough to snag a front row center seat but early enough to have a front row side seat. I was awed. No photos allowed, but I snuck two before and at the end of the show:



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MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO in Sevilla...fantstic!! The 29 euro ticket includes entrance to the flamenco museum, which I will visit on another day. Entrance to the show alone coasts a few euro less.
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There is a bar where patrons can buy wine or Tinto de Verano; my red wine cost 4 euro
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This man took my breath away....the entire show was thrilling!!! The best flamenco I've ever seen,a though I've not seen much....we need AMSDON and KIMHE here to comment..where are you both?? And Maribel!!!

Hi eks,
I totally agree regarding your flamenco venue.
As I postetd on HO just recently and perhaps here, the 3 intimate flamenco, pure choices for me (no tasting menus, cocktails, drinks/tapas with minor exceptons) are
1. Casa de la Memoria (which if memory serves you've also visited)
2. Museo del Arte Flamenco brought to the city by great, legendary Cristina Hoyos
3. Tablao Alvarez Quintero
No drinks during the performance, no tapas, no meal, just pure, inadulterated flamenco, which is what is all about.

Kimhe is no longer posting but I hope that amsdon see this and tells you more about the new venue at Las Setas, where I have not been

And having toured it last year, I felt that the Hotel Palacio Don Ramón would be perfect for you, with the perfect location, having recommended Spain hotels that you like very much over these many years ( I do know your taste!!). And the owner of the Kaizen group has another in Triana in the planning stages, so stay tuned..

Maribell you certainly do know my taste! This hotel is perfect! Small, elegant without being formal if that makes sense. The design is astonishingly beautiful, from the floors to the ceilings (the ceiling in my room, #10, has moldings, and closet doors reminiscent of ornamental plaster; similar to a couple of these:

https://www.shelterness.com/25-cool-...nd-trim-ideas/

The upholstery is incredibly detailed, with luscious fabrics on chairs and sofas scattered throughout the public areas. I must take a photo later.
My room is not very large but it's sumptuous in every detail. At the Maria Luisa in Jerez, guests take home their mascot, a little furry bear named Matteo. Here, my companion is the adorable silvery burro, Platero, whose name derives from the famous poetic children's book, Platero y Yo.

Later today I am going on a search for this cheese, which I think you recommended to me: It's a GOAT cheese from Malaga province that won a very important cheese award a couple of years ago and apparently sells out as fast as it can be stocked: OLAVIDIA. I hope they have this at ECI, which is just a few steps from the hotel.

https://www.quesosybesos.es/olavidia/



As you remember, I did attend the flamenco show at LA CASA DE LA MEMORIA last time I was here. I think the show at MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO was even better! The audience was enraptured. Even the big group of students from Bologna who were sitting behind me managed to quiet down during the show. They sell a couple of wines at the bar in an adjacent room but people bought their drinks beforehand and brought them back to their seats so there was no disruption during the program. I would say that this is an absolute must for any tourist visiting Sevilla. I arrived about 40 minutes before the 5pm starting time (I think they put on three shows daily) and there were already about a dozen people waiting on line. But I was rewarded with a front row seat (on the side of the stage) so I could see the footwork, which was dazzling.

Here is the website for tickets, and information; there is a flamenco museum in the building. I bought a ticket that allows me to visit the museum anytime during my stay here.

https://museodelbaileflamenco.com. (I attended the Puro Flamenco show)


Dinner last night was in the bar room, where I was given a small high-top table at the window right next to the long bar, of BARRA DE INCHAUSTI. (One solete in the Repsol guide) Although I had booked a table the adjacent, slightly more formal, restaurant, Shawn advised me to switch to the bar, instead and I was happy I was able to do so. I arrived on the dot of 8:30pm while the doors were still closed, so I was the first person to enter when the sign was flipped from "cerrado" to "abierto." The airy, white and blue room filled up quickly and I think I was the only non-local person, or at least the only tourist, in the place. Reservations can only be made by phone, so the hotel booked the table for me while I was still in the US.

I hadn't realized that the bad weather would affect local menus. As Shawn says on her website, the Inchausti brothers (three of them work the restaurant) have their own fish market on the coast in Cadiz province. This cuts out the middle man but also means that their kitchen is susceptible to weather that affects the fish supply. Unfortunately, this factor was much in evidence during my dinner here. I arrived with a short list of about five dishes that I wanted to try; These included fried ortiguillas (sea anemone) a signature dish of coastal Caiz that I fell in love with during my stay in Cadiz city a few years ago and that's no so common even as close as Sevilla; sopa de galera (mantis shrimp), another mainstay of the Gaditano table (a Gaditano is a person from Cadiz--Cadiz-ian (??); clams; and a couple of other items. None of these were available, due to the poor sea conditions this week.

But I needn't have worried; I ended up ordering only two dishes but both were excellent: Tortillita de camarones, the crispy fritters studded with little pieces of shrimp, another emblematic Gaditano dish and probably the most famous dish of that province. This was perfect!

Next: My kind and patient older waiter pointed me to the cod in a sobrehusa sauce, a name that was new to me. I read about its later and it seems that the recipe varies greatly from place to place and probably from kitchen to kitchen; the sobrehusa here was a golden yellow, velvety blanket for the large piece of perfectly cooked cod; the fish just melted in my mouth. I've never been a cod fan but that is changing. Fast. This was absolutely delicious, worth returning to the restaurant to repeat!! With a glass of sherry (sherries are known in Andalusia as "vinos generosos," or generous wines; I imagine the term refers to the fact that they are fortified.), and a 1.80 charge for bread and the little picos that appear on almost every table in this region, my bill totaled 11.50 euro:

3.50. copa de generoso
3.00. tortillita de camarón
3.20 sobrehusa
1.80 pan/picos

Total charge: 11.50

I've been in the habit of not tipping in restaurants in Spain, with the exception of the very few, very high-end places I go to once in a great while. But Shawn does tip so I've begun to follow her lead; I left a tip of 1.50 euro on the plate, for the waiter.

BARRA DE INCHAUSTI, Sevilla.
Excellent; more traditional than both BARRA BAJA and AZOTEA. A perfect place to sample very regional cooking, especially things from the sea. Very warm, welcoming and professional service. Not sure if English is spoken here (no English menu) but that should not dissuade the mono-lingual from visiting.

https://www.instagram.com/labarradeinchausti/?hl=en



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Menu--I thought I had seen one online but cannot find it now; Inchausti has no website, only Facebook and Instagram pages
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Tortillita of shrimp
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Close-up--look how lacy and delicate. and not greasy!
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Cod in a delicious sobrehusa sauce, with excellent potato, sliced
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Closeup of the cod; I mopped up all the sauce with bread
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Interior of bar area, taken from my table next to the window; this area was full by the time I left about 10pm. Next stop: Ice cream at MITO, a few steps away!!




I turned left upon leaving INCHAUSTI, and walked the few steps to one of the Sevilla outposts of MITO, a very-well-regarded ice cream shop (heladeria). One immediate signal that this would be a good product was the fact that the ice cream was not whipped into those towering, frothy piles that you see at lesser places. No screaming florescent colors here, either. As in the great gelaterias of Italy, the product is kept in metal containers topped with metal lids, so you cannot see the entire display--customers ask for one, or more, of the flavors listed on the wall, the lid is lifted, and your serving is stopped into a cup (in my case) or a cone. I did not hesitate one second after I spied "salted caramel" on the list!!! Yes, incredibly creamy and delicious. I asked for the smallest portion and received a very generously sized serving; it was enough for two people with skimpy appetites. I noticed that the helado was very slow to melt..I think this has to do with the butterfat content and is a quality of top-tier ice cream.

The price was 3.50 which I think is very little for such a quality helado; is my memory faltering, or did I not pay double that, even in Sicily, at the top tier gelaterias?
If any of you have traveled in Italy, do you remember the price of good gelato?? Could I have paid up to 7 euro there for a small-ish cup??

Anyway, after-dinner helado is going to be a habit while I'm here in Sevilla. I'm not sure I can find any nighttime ice cream in my next stop, near Vejer, unless I take the somewhat daunting after-dark drive up to the town itself. Do I dare buy a large container and ask the hotel to store in their kitchen freezer???

Maribel, would you recommend any supermarket ice cream brands? Or do you know of anyplace near my hotel outside Vejer where I could buy great helado?

It's dreary and rainy again today so it's a little hard to awaken the drive to go forth and wander, having to tear myself away from this cozy lair. I've been to Sevilla a number of times so I do not have any "essential" sights on my agenda, except the Museo de Bellas Artes, which I've visited a few times; its a superb collection and not too far a walk from the hotel. (One thing that is pretty new to me is the need to buy tickets in advance to the major attractions, so you do have to plan your day to the minute if you are headed for the Catedral, Giralda, etc etc. It's such a joy for me to just wander around aimlessly, admire the architecture and people-watch.

I've gotten lost so many times already in the three days I've been here but when that happens, I just stop someone on the street and ask directions..as is the norm here, every single person has been exceedingly helpful, with two people even walking a block out of their way to guide me...... Paradise!

it's now 1pm and all Ive accomplished so far today is to eat breakfast in the "orange" courtyard, and write this chapter of my food thread here. The word lazy does not even come close to describing me on this vacation! I've been waking at 10am, only that early because the front desk calls me at that hour, so I do not miss breakfast, which runs until 11 or 11:30, depending on who you ask. But I've got plenty of steam left over after dark and have not gone to sleep before 2am on any day since arriving. I guess I can blame it on jet lag, but does that not work the OTHER way..rising too early and conking out right after dinner???

Tonight will be dinner at AUGURIO.

Here is the site for the MITO ice cream shops; they call it a Gelateria; there are four locations in Sevilla and they have a nod from the Repsol guide, the principal gastronomic reference in Spain:

https://gelateriamito.com/en/

And this is BOLAS, also with several locations in the city and also with a Repsol recommendation; there's one very close to me on C/Orfila.

When a craving struck at 10pm on my day of arrival, this past Sunday, I found them shut tight; yesterday, a server told me that they were the victim on an online scam that caused them to deviate from their posted hours of operation (!). I might get the details when I stop by, hopefully tonight, for my first taste.



https://www.heladeriasbolas.com

I'm discovering that it's much more fun to read about a city when my own visit is imminent. Glad the iffy weather is not ruling out ice cream. Though what weather is not good for ice cream, now that I think about it.

Is it possible at this point for you to add a "Spain" tag to this thread, or does a mod have to do it?

Hellie, how do I add the tag? I'd love to if you or someone else can guide me.
Weather is not great, but its not at all cold; I went out today (shopping spree at basement supermarket of El Corte Ingles) with only a linen shirt and a rain jacket and I could have left the rain jacket back at the hotel. So far I've not seen any rain today.

Look:


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That's the little burro, Platero, who lives at the hotel. (Well, he lives here now but once I get his pet-port in order he will be re-locating!!).

I also bought a nice-sized chunk of cabrales cheese from Asturias to have for snacks in my room. (I don't go out for lunch much).

The onion jam was less than 3 euro; I use this at home for little toasts, with sliced pears and smoked mozzarella on good bread--put in the oven to melt the cheese, a nice dinner with a salad. I think I paid about 10$US at Whole Foods for a different (Calabrian) type in a tiny jar.....look at me, shopping for supermarket bargains to bring home. I even bought some purple garlic! And the Navarra asparagus was half-price for the second can!! Good for salads back home!! I think I am a little eccentric.




I want to mention that I have not felt any anti-tourist sentiment here. I did not expect that I would, since I never experienced this in any country, ever. But I see many people asking about this on other travel forums. I've not seen any graffiti telling tourists to stay home...nothing like that. At all. Everyone I've met has been exceedingly kind and helpful. I know it makes a difference in the fact that I speak Spanish fairly well, but still....be polite and I cannot imagine anyone would have problems, at least in the places I've visited.

I always like to speak with any local person who has time for me. So I've had a few discussions with the housekeeper, a Honduran who has lived in Sevilla for ten years. She is the ONLY person who has alluded to our current political scene, and only then, she did it in a very light manner. I'm not sure that many tourists understand how many immigrants live in Spain. I've encountered so many people from Argentina, Cuba (I think half of the taxi drivers in Lanzarote are Cuban, or so it seemed last May) and Central American countries in my hotels and I love talking to them....I think I wrote about the person who cleaned my room in Cuenca last December..she is from Honduras, re-located to Cuenca and now has a daughter graduating from medical school....this was a lovely tale.

Anyway, just a small detour from the main topic: food and lots of miscellany. Do not look here if you want to read about the main attractions in Seville because I will not be visiting any (except for, possibly, the Museo de Bellas Artes). You cannot wander into the main "sights" nowadays; you need to book ahead for your time slot.

That little guy is adorable. And as for shopping for supermarket things to bring home, that's a very fun thing to do, especially when the haul is all arrayed at home. I remember after unpacking from one trip that ended in Brussels, I wanted to just roll around on the bed with all the chocolate boxes and bottles of beer. I did manage to restrain myself.

In a thread I was reading yesterday, someone advised a poster to click the little warning symbol at the bottom of a post, the exclamation point within a triangle, to summon a mod. I was a bit hesitant to try, since it says "report this post" or something similar, but I just tried it on one of my own threads, and all that happens is that it opens a little message box addressed to a mod.

Great..I did just what you wrote; will see what happens. They are usually good at responding.

I've now realized that I went to the wrong area of El Corte Ingles; I went to the normal supermarket in the basement where I should have gone to the rooftop "gourmet" area.
Tomorrow is another day!!

We had our American International School class reunion dinner at Azotea about 12 years ago.
Thanks for waking up a happy memory.
I do remember those prawns!




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CDNYUL'. You are so welcome....I do love Azotea!!



I was not kidding when I wrote that this thread would have very little info for the first-time traveler to Sevilla, or for anyone focused on seeing the myriad sights that the city offers.
I spent my time eating and wandering. I'm going to wrap here, briefly, because I left the city this morning, bound for La Janda, where I will stray for two weeks in a small hotel in the countryside outside Vejer. de la Frontera. I learned today that there is an excellent school for learning Spanish in Vejer and that is where the British owner of my hotel became fluent in the language.

https://nightingaletrails.com/habita...ands/la-janda/


SEVILLA WRAP UP;


I was the recipient of quite a few glasses of various sherries from people at my hotel. This had a small effect on my system and by my fourth night in Sevilla, my appetite was not what it was when I arrived here. Taking my cue from Maribel, and from Shawn of SEVILLA TAPAS, I had booked at the tiny eatery, AUGURIO. This is a gem, run by a pair of women.--Carmen and Lorena--who extended a very warm welcome, indeed, to this drenched traveler from across the Atlantic. I had a lovely walk from my hotel, stopping at RATATOUILLE CHEESECAKE to admire the selection and to chat with the male staff member. I promised myself I would return but this was not to be. Nor war further tasting of the helados; besides AMORINO, Sevilla seems to have several ice cream place offering top quality, I wrote about MITO and their salted caramel (!!) but never did have the time to stop by at BOLAS when their doors were open. A shame, since they are but a block from the DON RAMON.


I had no hunger when I arrived at AUGURIO, so cannot offer any meaningful chatter about the restaurant except to say I already have it on my list for next year. The place sits about 24 diners in a sleek, simple but attractive one-room space. Determined to appreciate anchovies, I began with a
Cantabrian beauty atop a toast smeared with butter compounded with blue cheese. I tried....I did try. It was good but I still cannot say that I am an anchovy aficionado. But I am even more determined to learn more by tasting.....

Carmen recommended that I continue with grilled hearts of gem lettuce all melty with parmesan....this was lovely and I cleaned my plate. but by then I could not eat any more so I missed what is probably the best part of their menu, as well and their desserts. AUGURIO is a tiny spot; only one other table was occupied on this rainy Wednesday night and, again, I have it on my list for next year when I hope to return...


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AUGURIO exterior...looks like a great neighborhood to stay in an apartment, or a hotel..
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I was feeling so poorly that I managed only one pic of the food; this is their acclaimed anchovy with blue cheese butter. I followed by grilled hearts of lettuce with parmesan cheese and crispy bread crumb fried in bacon fat (!!!).....I drank only water that night..went straight back "home" with not even a cup of ice cream from the nearby outpost of MITO!! Total bill: 11.40euro

I came away with regret that I could not mange to sample more dishes, and also with this saying, imparted by Carmen.

Maribel, I need you here because I cannot remember the prompt for this, which came during our discussion of the very rainy and dreary weather, which was so unexpected by yours truly!!


"Hasta el 40 de Mayo, No te quites el sayo!"



The following afternoon, I took the terrific sherry tasting tour led by Shawn Hennessy, of SEVILLE TAPAS; not only did I learn so much about the wines of the "sherry triangle," now expanded to include a few other production areas, but Shawn had selected what must be THE typical, atmospheric SEvillana bar, HERMANOS DE E. MORALES, a landmark now celebrating its 175th year of operation by the subsequent generations of the Morales family. I knew that the wines would be top notch, but I never expected such fabulous food!!!! Highly recommend Shawn's tours (I was joined only be two other persons--both cheesemakers from Lancastershire) and the bar itself, which becomes easier navigate under the helm of a local person such as Shawn.

This bar was jam-packed by a few minutes after the 12:30pm opening time....a mix of tourists and locals and so quintessential Sevillana---the food, the people, the staff....ifi you have time to visit one place in Sevilla, you might consider this one. It's on the other extreme from the restaurants I had dined at earlier in the week--traditonal Andalusia recipes, cooked with care by the current owner, Reyes Morales, in her upstairs kitchen. For a minute, you might imagine your Sevillana grandma toiling one flight above and bringing down the food, one dish by one dish, each one better than the last, or so it seems to me yesterday afternoon. Essential!!!


​​​​​​​This is their menu; do not worry about prices as they are all extremely reasonable. The location is but a block from the Cathedral: Prepare to wait if you want a table, but the crowd flows in and out so just stick it out and I can alsmot promise a reward.


​​​​​​​https://www.casamoralessevilla.es/Nuestra-Cocina/




https://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/tapas-tours/sherry/

Yes, that's the perfect expression for what we're experiencing now. Who would have thought??? La instabilidad de la primervera.
https://www.elmundo.es/como/2024/06/...56b8b458d.html

We're hosting a barbecue tomorrow and it's going to be soooooo cold! No me voy a quitar el sayo. We´ll either be forced inside or wrap up in blankets on the porch.

ekscrunchy,
File this list away for your next Sevilla trip. More heladerías!
https://www.abc.es/gurme/sevilla/gui...10002913&jb=10

Maribel, I adore you!!

You know where I am lounging on the bed, writing this!!! Looking out at the green, so green, hills near Vejer from my room!!!! Oh, to be back here!!

The tour with Shawn was excellent!

Back story: My partner of (dare I reveal this--more than 25 years!) owned a small, unpretentious wine store in East Midtown, Manhattan, a few blocks north of the UN.

It was a small shop, patronized by the who's who (way, way back then) of the neighborhood--a certain reclusive Scandinavian actress, an often tipsy Southern author famed for his "true crime" novel, a CBS anchor with an unforgettable voice....on and on..... But, the selection of "vinos generosos" was limited to a few bottles of Harveys Bristol Cream, a Tio Pepe or two, and I think that was that.... NO ONE, and mind you, these were well-traveled patrons of no little spending cash, no one knew anything about sherry.

When I look back on those years, I wonder why and I imagine it was lack of advertising, or was sherry equated with Grandma with her dusty bottle of Bristol Cream?
We discussed all of that, and so much more, with Shawn (she is an accredited "sherry educator" who has passed the notoriously difficult exam to acquire her license and it was so interesting to hear the couple from rural UK (reputedly esteemed cheesemakers) tell us that the only sherry they knew was Bristol Cream... Shawn explained that the reason that brand has a poor reputation was that sherry, like other wines, cannot be stashed in the cupboard for years.....it's wine, after all!!! But many people treat it like whisky, to be brought out only on special occasions, and then stored under poor conditions which degrade the wine.

The tasting was wonderful....and the venue (!!) ..both were a highlight of my all-too-short stay on Sevilla..


I have already inquired about visiting in 2026 for the first two days of Semana Santa--Sunday and Monday when the hotel has viewing from their roof and from a spot in front..more on that later.....the people at the hotel thought I would get a good introduction to the festivities, without being overwhelmed, if I visited during the first two days of the processions...(??)


This morning I booked a driver (arranged and paid for by the hotel) to take me from HOTEL PALACIO DON RAMON to the airport of Jerez. We left just before noon.

(I will mention here that the same hotel group, the esteemed KAIZEN GROUP, will open a new hotel in Triana, on Calle Betis, next year)

What a pleasure--tiny Jerez airport, completing the paperwork for the SIXT rental car took under five minutes, and I was on my way, bound for my hotel outside Vejer via Cadiz and Chiclana (as opposed to the route via Medina Sidonia) I took all insurances to be safe and secure, and paid upon collecting the car, with GPS included, a small Audi automatic.

Sixt does not ask for the IDP; a US driver's license is enough to rent, although the IDP is helpful in case of a stop by police or in case of accident. (I had one in hand but was not asked to show it at the counter). I had to consent to a block on my credit card for the time of the rental, which amounted to about 2000 euro. (Helpful to ask for an increased credit limit if that's possible with your personal card; I use CITi Costco in Europe, which has no exchange fee)

Despite my anxiety about driving, the trip was easy, roads are in top condition, and well before 3pm I was met with lots of hugging and joyful exclamations by the staff members,, and from my beloved SOMBRA, my midnight black feline friend of 18-years-plus who managed a purr and who immediately, and much more emphatically, responded to the offering of a few treats purchased at my local D'Agostino!! (Wait until she sees the toys I've brought along, if I can figure out how to charge and work these floppy fishes!!)


Here are a few photos from my sherry tasting with Shawn Hennessy at Casa Morales, near the Cathedral of Sevilla:


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FANTASTIC cod topped with a dab of the salmorejo typical of Cordoba....
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Jamon Iberico, Ibgerian ham (Shawn explained the varieties of this delicacy and how it pairs so well with sherries; we had the opportunity to taste with different styles of sherry)
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The atmospheric back room (enter by the side street) of Casa Morales....a trio of regulars sipping vino Tinto; some of th many menu offerings written on the barrels behind them.....a vast menu here!!
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Delectable meatballs made from chicken...with good potatoes in lovely gravy.....
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Artichoke hearts with jamon Iberico and finely chopped parsley.....
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An ideal pairing with a Pedro Jimenez sherry: Foie gras with a red pepper jam and toast points....among the many, many \"must orders" at Casa Morales, Sevilla
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Facade of E. Morales; there is this main entrance and one on the side street, to the right when you face the facade


Another notable dish which I forgot to photograph, was the carrillada, pork cheeks, braised to soft perfection in red wine.....I imagine that most any diet on their long menu would be good and I think this is a top spot for a snack or full meal. Undoubtedly this is only one of many in Sevilla but I can report only on my excellent experience here.

For someone running--ambling, really--at my very slow pace, five nights is a scant amount of time to devote to this glorious of Andalusian cities.

Hey Eks, congratulations on another successful and tasty trip. Those oysters were intriguing. I always tease fishermen vendors that they ought to consider a sign: 'OYSTERS: MORE ZINC FOR YOUR DINK!'
And gracias for including that interesting demographic summary--who knew so many immigrants lived in Spain?
*FYI 'world music' theme soon come next Monday in Song of the Week.

I am done. the tasty trip

eks,
Shawn really had a great time with you, BTW!! I'm so glad you could join her sherry tasting at Hijos de Morales, which is our favorite Sevilla time warp. We go there every night for our "penúltima". Yes, the little KAIZEN group grows, this time in Triana, but I think the Casa Palacio Don Ramón has a far better, actually perfect location.

We actually got caught in a Semana Santa "bulla" there (look that up!) across the street, while awaiting a procession. The first few days are best for Semana Santa beginners, as it's slightly less overwhelming. The Thursday evening to Friday morning Madrugá is for professionals!:lol:. Completely and totally exhausting, albeit thrilling.

We're doing the very solemn Semana Santa in Old Castile this year--processions actually begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday (Viernes de Dolores)--- León, Zamora, Valladolid, ending in Avila on Easter Sunday, but plan on going back to Sevilla & Jerez in 2026.

zebec,
There are now 50,623 and counting US citizens living in Spain--hard to believe. I´m now one of these immigrants and live in a Madrid suburb chock filled with immigrants (but just 47 of us from the US).

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming, Ekscrunchy and adventures in La Janda!

Tasty, we have to trademark that phrase asap before someone else reads this..
Love the upcoming music thread....I have to ponder where to begin....Mali or Mexico???

I'm done, for the night!!!

I forgot to add something interesting for shoppers:

The last time I paid attention, a tourist had to spend a minimum of a couple of hundred euro in one store to qualify for a tax refund.

I went to the large Zara next to El Corte Ingles, in Sevilla. I picked out a few t-shirts and went to the cashier area (mostly self pay). While waiting for someone to help me, I struck up a conversation with a trio of South Korean tourists who were waiting to get paperwork allowing for a taxi refund at the airport. I asked the sales person and he explained that there is now no minimum that a tourist must spend in order to get a refund. So even though I was buying only 60 euro worth of goods (five cotton t-shirts) I could get about 12 euro back!! Unfortunately, I left my passport at the hotel (I almost never carry it with me), but if I had had it with me, I would have gotten the forms entitling me to that 12 euro or so money back.

I might be the very last person to know about this, but in case not, that's the story. Certainly worth carrying your foreign passport if you are planning on shopping!!

You're not the last person, eks, I've just learned something new. But now that we live here we can't get our VAT back, boo, hoo. That's certainly good to know for others.

I sure hope that you're warmer in your beautiful, cozy La Janda hideaway than we are up here in the Madrid Community. But at least it's not raining!

Once again, I deleted my post by mistake when I tried to post photos, so here goes, again:

I finally saw some sun on the drive from Jerez to my hotel near Vejer!!!!
Today is sunny but very windy, and I will bring my padded vest and a jacket when I go for lunch near Zahara de los Atunes, where I booked a table for 2:30pm (takes a few phone calls and e-mails to do this), because the restaurant is directly on the beach, known for being windy even when its calm a few miles inland.

This is the third March I've visited this hotel and I feel very at home. There are only about ten rooms; it's like staying at the country home of a wealthy friend. Very informal; I think some might refer to the style as "Andalusian boho chic." Lots of worn tiles (owner has, or had, a tile business in London), stone, brick, stucco and weathered wood. Walls are what I think of is Venetian plaster but more rough, without any shine; a pale pink. Furnishings are probably vintage finds, maybe a little worn but it all comes together very well. As usual my fellow guests are the competitors in the Sunshine Tour, a big horse event that takes place in a club nearby.

Last night I had dinner here--three courses. (I tried to post photos but that's when everything got deleted so will try to post this text and add the photos later;
Gambas al ajillo--shrimp in garlic--were excellent.
Solomillo (roast beef???) was good but she (Connie, the cook) served the meat with a wonderful vegetable that I first thought was sweet potato. But it was CAULIFLOWER, maybe the best rendition of that vegetable I've ever had!!!!

She never discloses her recipes but from poking around in the kitchen, I am almost sure that she mashed up the cauliflower and added onions that she had browned, earlier. There were also bits of cooked red pepper, but there were other ingredients that I MUST investigate because I will try to replicate this as soon as I get home. Connie's very secretive about her recipes!! So this will take further snooping, I'm afraid....

Last year I learned a wonderful salad dressing tip from here--add both lemon AND ORANGE juice (fresh) to your vinaigrette. Just those, with good olive oil and flake salt (She uses La Carmencita brand, which she bought for me last year but I think it's available widely in supermarkets...it's not at all fancy and not expensive but it has very large flakes, larger than Maldon.

For dessert we had almond tart, but I must say that this was good if not as fantastic as the authentic Torta de Santiago from that city, in Galicia (that's among my favorite cakes, anywhere!). And vanilla ice cream, too.

It's very good to be able to eat here at night, rather than having to drive in the dark, but I do plan on doing some night driving, if only to VENTA PINTO (pork and red lard bocadillo!!) which is close to here and has a parking lot across the street. Also close is LA CASTILLERIA but I don't think they are open for dinner during this month. (I will go for lunch Monday). And maybe I will be brave and attempt driving up into the town of Vejer for dinner one night.....

I will post the photos of the dinner later; do not want to delete this text again... Also, the internet here is a little spotty in the room.

Hi eks,
Solomillo could be pork tenderloin or beef tenderloin but it was probably La Janda beef (??).

You are right, Maribel; it was beef. It was written on the chalkboard menu.
Tonight she made Secreto Iberico, which I loved last year. But I had lunch at ANTONIO (!!!) so I skipped it.
More on that later on; I will try again to post photos of the dinner at the hotel last night, with the solomillo:


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Dinner at my hotel, first night after arriving: Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp w with garlic sauce)
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Shrimp, from my table in living/dining area of hotel.
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Beef solomillo (local Retinto beef) over wonderful chunky puree of cauliflower and browned onions; I love their beautiful hand-made-looking pottery plates

Your trip brought me back to our short but wonderful time in Sevilla in 2019. I found my tr (we’re also all about the food) and it’s looks like you gave me good advice for that trip. We used to go to Europe twice a year and I’ve made use of your great trip reports especially from Chowhound. Still remember reading your TR about Matera, and knowing that I had to go there. I included a bit from the report for old time sake-

.”Here’s a summary of our visit to Sevilla and Granada that I wrote up on Chowhound. Our three meals in Sevilla were amazing!

We are enjoying Sevilla. A beautiful place and it reminds us a little bit of where we live, Santa Barbara. The Casa del Poeta hotel is lovely and a beautiful spot to sip some cava in the early evening in their stunning courtyard. Our first night here, we walked up to La Azotea (Calle Condé de Barajas) and I basically handed my notes from this thread to the waiter and said we want this meal (thank you Eks!). So we had the delicious large shrimp with sherry, small clams with artichoke, a larger artichoke dish with sweetbreads in a cheese sauce and then sliced angus beef with tomatoes, peppers and French fries. Needless to say we were stuffed but very happy. We ended up chatting with the owner Juan for awhile, his wife is from California, he lived in San Diego for awhile and my husband and he discovered a mutual love of surfing. Really delicious meal and I think we may go back to the more casual bar across the street tonight for our last dinner. Next day, after a big breakfast at the hotel we visited Salvador church and also got tickets for the Cathedral. For a very light lunch we went to Torch coffee, a third wave coffee place (very hipster) on the street that runs next to the river. For dinner we walked back up to the same neighborhood and put on our name in at Bar Eslava. We ended up outside on a high table and had a great succession of tapas. The cigar with cuttlefish, razor clams, the egg on mushroom pate, croquettes with delicious side potatoes, artichoke with almonds and salt cod and spare ribs with honey. Sadly they were out of fried sea anemone. Everything was wonderful and I had some very nice Albariño at $3 a glass. We always marvel at how inexpensive wine and beer is in Europe. In the US our wine costs would have been at least triple the cost.

Just to wrap up, we had a delicious last dinner at Petit Corner after a lovely afternoon at the Alcazar, perhaps my favorite over the Alhambra. We got there at 8 and got a table that had to be vacated by 9:45. Started with a tuna tartare because I realized we hadn’t had tuna yet and I knew the region is well known for its tuna. It was very flavorable and a nice change of pace. We continued with crougettes, artichoke with Ibérico ham, a duck and foie served on toast and one of my favorite dishes anywhere ever, octopus with “silky” potatoes, truffle oil and an egg. Just a delicious flavor bomb. Highly recommend. We had 3 wonderful dinners in Sevilla. Paris has a lot to live up to!

Wow, that artichoke at Casa Morales looks so gorgeous. I haven't seen anything like it. Thank you so much for sharing your exploits.

I've fallen down on the job with this thread; I did add comments to one I'm writing about food for www.HUNGRYONION.ORG, but to continue here:

I've been at my little hideaway outside Vejer for a week now. Anyone looking for sightseeing tips, or anything NOT related to food, will not find much of interest from here on. (Not that there was much of that in the first part of this report!)

Picked up rental car at the small Jerez airport and drove to this rural inn, where I'd been two times before. Even though the weather has not been on my side, I've gotten out most days. It's usually on off and on mixture of rain, drizzle and clouds interspersed with brief periods of sunshine. One constant is the wind---on some nights I hear it howling outside my windows (mixing with the chickens crowing early in the morning). But I've been sleeping extremely well; this room is large and very comfortable. Guests have the run of the place--so I can scurry down for a drink from the "honor bar," or for my stash of cheeses that I keep in my own designated container in the fridge, which is wells stocked with sherries, sodas, and waters.

I've been having breakfast around 10am and then lounging around, reading and generally wasting time, until the hour approaches for lunch. Most days I've had a reservation at a restaurant within a 35 minute drive. This part of the COSTA DE LA LUZ must have one of the highest concentrations of great restaurants than any rural area in Spain (well, maybe not counting the Basque Country and Asturias....and maybe Galicia...ok forget I wrote that. ). I'm talking about really SUPERB eating!! So I've been taking full advantage. The trouble is, there are so many restaurants I want to try and even though I have two weeks, it's not enough since I return to my favorites as many times as I can..

I usually book a table for 2 or 2:30. So lunch finishes by 4pm or so. Then sometimes I take a detour to get back to my hotel. It's a pleasure to drive around here, as the roads are impeccable and there is very little traffic, since the deluge of tourists that come for the beaches has not yet arrived. When I get back "home," I head for the pool and swim my laps, sometimes until 6pm or even later if it's not raining or too windy. since I have the large lunches on most days, I have only cheese and fruit in my room for dinner. But tonight, for example I'll be eating downstairs in the large living-dining area, where secreto Iberico, a cut of pork that I like, is on the menu. (I missed it last Saturday since I had eaten a giant seafood lunch a few hours earlier)

Well if there is anyone not yet sleeping, I'll tell you that yesterday I took a drive that had me almost breathless. It was raining hard when I left RESTAURANTE ANTONIO, which is probably my favorite restaurant in the area and I'm sure is among the best seafood restaurants in Andalucia.


I'm going to take an annoying break here; I want to post in bits because the wireless is a little spotty and I've already lost a few long posts....

..so yesterday I left the restaurant in Atlanterra, a coastal strip just east of the little town of Zahara de los Atunes, bound for my hotel, in the countryside outside Vejer.
Instead of taking the quickest route, I drove along west the coast from Zahara, bound for the large fishing town of Barbate. The road was almost empty and there was drizzle and fog casting a silvery shroud over the landscape. I don't think I've ever driven a stretch of road that kept me exclaiming, over and over again, out loud: "Look at this!! Will you just look at this!!!!" To my left was the Atlantic, frothy with big waves. And edging the sea, between the water and the waves, a curving lien of white sand beach that gave way to sloping grassland dotted with large, mostly red cows. There were more cows to my right, before the grass stopped at tall grey cliffs. it looked like photos of those gorgeous Irish coastal stretches I've seen in films. (Remember Ryan's Daughter? I'm making a mess of the description but I was in awe. And barely a car in sight. And no buildings!!! Just once or twice, a small house offering bait and fishing supplies for sale. No other people, save for a couple of men with their fishing poles. This has to be one of the best beaches in Europe and there was no human stain anyplace.

Even when I reached the outskirts of Barbate, the white buildings looks like sugar cubes, rising out of the mist. It was just so beautiful, I felt like crying!

From there, I drove through the edge of Barbate, and back to my hotel....but I'll never lose the mental images of that drive!!

And the reason I took that drive in the first place, was to lunch at ANTONIO; I've been there twice in the past week, so here is a mix of photos from both lunches; two dishes are repeats--the sashimi of belly tuna and the carabineros, the large scarlet prawns-- both are local to this coast.





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View of Atlanterra beach, outside Zahara de los Atunes (Zahara of the Tuna) from RESTAURANTE ANTONIO
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These are the roads like I've been navigating almost every day; very little traffic and fun to drive! I always request that my rental car has a built-in GPS, which makes getting lost almost impossible, and gives me so much peace of mind, driving alone and sometimes after dark. Sunset comes about 7:30pm this third week in March
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Entrance to main road, from unpaved lane that leads to my tucked-away, country hotel. The hotel has about ten rooms and few are occupied right now. So I feel as if I'm in my country estate!!

RESTAURANTE ANTONIO. I wrote about this last year, and probably the year before, since this is my third year here and I've visited the restaurant quite a few times.
While the prices seem high, they represent excellent value. I usually take a half order of a dish. This is my main meal of the day since I do not have dinner on the days that I eat here, or in other restaurants. Sometimes I find myself eating lunch at 4pm, not so much earlier than my usual diner time back home in the winter.


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The bar area at ANTONIO, where I sit at a high-topped small table facing the bar
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Complimentary mussel in escabeche. Why do the mussels here taste so much better than those back home? Bread at left is flavored and colored with turmeric..terrific!!
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Braised leek with bits of black truffle and black salt..draped with a razor-thin slice of Iberian bacon whose fat melts into the vegetable....incredibly flavorful touch..drape this over almost any vegetable.
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Pair of scarlet Carabinero prawns...my favorite thing to order here. Look at the juicy innard liquid!!
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Complimentary croqueta filled with spinach and local Payoyo cheese; you can almost always depend on croquetas to be delicious!! So if you see nothing else on a menu that appeals, go for these. They might not be as delicious as this one, but you will probably be happy with your choice. More usual fillings are jamon, cheese, and both together.
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Sashimi of ventresca, raw slices of the bluefin tuna caught every spring along this coast using a sustainable net system dating back to the Phoenicians. Many Japanese gourmands visit this area to eat bluefin tuna. Restaurants use parts of the fish from the brain to the tail and almost everything in between. The next day I visited EL CAMPERO, considered by many to be the best tuna restaurant in the world. Many Japanese come there to indulge.
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A pair of \"alistado" prawns from Huelva, source of some of Europe's most adored shrimp. Spanish restaurants usually leave the head on, for it contains much of the taste. Wipes and water with lemon are offered to clean your fingers. The meat of these was incredibly sweet. No comparison to most shrimp I've tasted in the US, even in Louisiana.
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A Carabinero prawn..I used the turmeric break to sop up all of the delicious liquid in there inside cavity, which acted like a bowl.... For a seafood lover, these are heaven.
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Close up of the carabinero with flesh lifted high; turmeric bread for sopping up juices is at right



Here are some of the day's offerings, including
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Part of the day's catch at ANTONIO restaurant on the Costa de la Luz in Andalucia, including three types of shrimp

Wow ekscrunchy what a great trip and the food photos are mouth watering. Seafood looks deliciously fresh. I love the photo from Antonios looking at the sea over the sand. Enjoy!

Thanks, RainyCityGirl!!

I've not kept up with this report. I've visited a couple of restaurants--EL CAMPERO, VENTA PINTO and ANTONIO, several times.

I will post a few more photos of new (to me) dishes.

Today I'm relishing my last full day at my hotel near Vejer. I've had two full weeks here and am in the process of booking for a longer stay next March..(2026, ojalal!!)


I know my time here is probably no model for others, as I've mainly driven out only for one late lunchl a day and spent the rest of the time relaxing here (we finally have had beautiful weather, in my second week) at the salt-water swimming pool. As there are never more than two or three (out of a total of six) rooms occupied, I feel as if I am on my weekend estate in a dreamscape...and the staff here are now more than just staff..they have become almost friends.

Yesterday Jessica, a manager who I came to know during my two previous stays and who now enjoys maternity leave to care for her first child, came back to visit and it was a joyful reunion with here, not only with her daughter but her mother as well....so staying here for me means more than just staying at a random hotel. But this is that kind of place and if anyone is interested, I am happy to share the details about the hotel if you send me a message.....you will find it if you do a search for real hotels outside Vejer de la Frontera.


I very rarely write reviews on TripAdvisor but I did write one for RESTAURANTE ANTONIO, and you can read it here, along with their nice response:


https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser...Andalucia.html


What I meant to add here was this: I've taken many, many trips to Spain and to Italy, in previous decades. Many times I've rented a car, but my partner has done the driving.
In 2023 for the first time, I took a chance and rented a car for a solo visit to Andalucia. (Partner stayed at home). I was terrified!! But it worked out so well.

Since then, I have done the driving on three trips to Italy (with partner along as navigator but also with GPS in car) I found myself far more relaxed when I drove, rather than being in the passenger seat--even in Sicily, which does NOT deserve the reputation for being a difficult place to drive in....

Not only that, but this is the THIRD trip I've taken (2023, 2024, and now--2025) to Andalucia on my own. Every day I am more and more confident and I can say that the driving in this area is a LOT less stressful than driving in the NYC area where I live.

But the BIG milestone took place the night before last.
I do not like having to venture out during beautiful, sunny days to spend the afternoon in a restaurant. I'd much rather relax and take small explorations in the immediate area, and then go out for dinner, after dark.

But until Wednesday night, I'd been afraid to drive after dark. Nevertheless, I took the chance and drove from here to Barbate, a drive of under 35 minutes, for a solo dinner at EL CAMPERO. It was SO EASY!!!! Yes, I drove slowly and I did have a few drivers on my tail. I pulled over a few times to let them pass and I tried to maintain calm, even when there were 4 or 5 cars in back of me.....

And it worked out just FINE!!!! I found a parking spot on the street in Barbate, walked to the restaurant, had a lovely dinner, and drove home, arriving around 10:30 or so....

Not only that, but I took another after-dark drive on another night to a "venta" about 10 minutes from here...IN THE DARK!!
There are no streetlights but the headlights provided perfect illumination.

I know this sounds lame to people who think northing of driving after dark but for me it was a big step and I find myself so happy that I will not find my mealtimes curtailed, and can now feel secure venturing out in the car after dark!!

After all that, I'll post a few photos of my dinner on that night---at EL CAMPERO, the legendary tuna "temple" in Barbate, on the Costa de la Luz in the province of Cadiz:


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Aperitivo of tuna lasagna..impossibly thin sheets of pasta wedged between luscious pate of bluefin tuna
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The bar area of EL CAMPERO on a Wednesday evening at 9pm
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Half order of sashimi of bluefin tuna!!!!!! Melt in your mouth! One bit and ascend to gustatory paradise (ouch..sorry for that!!).
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This is a half order of parpatana of tuna...with curried coconut sauce...the parpatana is a very fatty cut of the fish, located between the head and the belly..somewhere in there !!! I doubt if you would find this cut outside Spain and even then, not outside restaurants in this area and in Madrid...(Maribel will know more!!). If you see it on a menu--order it..you have not had any part of any fish that tastes anything like this one.....outstanding!!! Can this really come from the sea????
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cfbba7bd.jpeg
Again, melt in your mouth..it pulls apart like no other fish I've seen tried...incredible!!! Total bill that night, with white wine and bread/cover: 54 euro.

I love reading about your trips! Well done for the driving in the dark bit, too. I'm sure your reports are inspiring to others, too. Although I do I have a slight suspicion that people are always nice to you because you are so nice yourself and to them (even though I've never met you!)

Oh the food looks so good, look at that sashimi! Sounds like a wonderful trip, beautiful place to stay where you feel at home and good for you driving all over the place.

Everything looks so delicious. I think I had some of my favorite meals in Europe in Spain. And thanks for your kind words about my broken wrist and our mutual low level dissatisfaction of our user names. Under my present circumstances I’m just excited to get out of the house and got to go to the Santa Barbara farmers market this morning and have some great Mexican food last night. I am also mastering the art of driving with one usable arm. I believe you live in New York City so at least you don’t have to drive there and everything is walkable or taxi or subway friendly. Have a safe trip home.

ek, I'm just catching up with this report, being in Florida, staying with a friend for a couple of months and spending most of my time swimming and enjoying the sun!😁
Everything looks and sounds wonderful, as usual. I do have to note that I've had gelato in Italy more times than I can count and have never paid 7 Euro! I think the most has been 5 Euro, and often less than that.

Thanks for reading!!
Susan, I'm probably wrong bout the 7euro gelato in Italy...that does sound high, although maybe for a very large cup (??0

MacDogMom: I hope the wrist is coming along. I do live in NYC most of the year, but we do have a car, and with the Greenmarket, I often have my partner drive me and wait for me (feverishly scanning the area to make sure a meter person is not gong to pounce and give him a ticket) while I shop. Otherwise, imagine carting all the stuff home don the bus?
I'm so envious of those gorgeous markets you have in California!

I'm back home now after an amazing trip. Besides the food, I was overwhelmed at just how KIND everyone seemed. Every last person, be it a hotel worker, a pedestrian on the street who I stopped for directions..etc etc....they were just so warm and friendly and just plain NICE. I know this reads pretty silly but it's how I felt. Maybe an "older" woman alone gets special treatment (??). I'm sure it has a lot to do with the fact that I speak Spanish but I also feel this in italy,, so.. Do you all have similar feelings?

I'll come back and write a little wrap up and for now, 'm just dreaming of the next trip!! I really do feel as if I have to cover a lot of ground while I still can.

I spent a night in Jerez at the end (I drove there from Vejer and dropped my car at the airport, then took taxi into the city for one night)
Next day, I had a flight to Madrid from Jerez with a connection to the US of 1 hour 5 minutes. I knew about that connection time all along but I guess I put it out of my mind until the day before, so by the time I got to Jerez airport, I'm very nervous. I tell the flight attendant I have a very short connection and when I tell her just how short, she frowns and agrees that this is very tight.

Well, can you imagine that I not only made that flight but I had time to spare to go to the lounge and have two slices of a fantastic baked vegetable dish encased in pastry...with spinach and cheese..AND time to use the facilities!!!

There was no extra security check before boarding the flight to Miami....I was sure I'd have to go through another one but no! So the only security check was in Jerez, before boarding the flight to MAD. Once in Madrid it was only through immigration and then onto the plane.

I'm still in a fog but this was absolutely a DREAM trip, and I already booked my stay for next March I the hotel outside Vejer.

Also, I seemed to have gained 6 pounds in three weeks. But I will weigh myself again later..I wonder if flying swells your tissues a little (??).

Yes, perhaps 7 Euro for a large cup.of gelato. I never had that size! 😁
Great to hear that everyone was so kind.