Seven days in Poland
 

It was just a few weeks ago that I boarded a Lufthansa flight from JFK to Munich and thence to Krakow, for a University sponsored week's trip to Poland. Many people had asked, "why would you go to Poland?" I didn't have an answer then, but I do now. It is contained in the story of the trip itself, and not in any high-fallutin' self knowledge gained en route. If you can indulge me just to tell you my impressions of the trip, I think you will pick up whatever insight or knowledge you need.

I went to Poland to visit with my college roommate. Now, please be advised that we were roommates more than 55 years ago, and that we have remained friends ever since, and that we had traveled together several times prior to this trip. We needed a "roommate fix" after a 5 year hiatus, and I thought maybe an Iceland trip would do it, but thank goodness for Priscilla, who said, "no, too expensive, let's go to Poland, which is currently much cheaper." Ok, I said, a fall guy ( fall person?) for any whim of hers, just wanting to reconnect. Also, unlike DH, she does NOT snore.

We signed up for a Brown University (AHI) trip to Poland - Sept. 30 thru Oct. 8. Now, I don't usually do group trips, but this one promised a Brown Professor and all the concomitant lectures - and of course, the always adorable Priscilla from Evanston, so what could I do but say an enthusiastic "Yes!"

Lufthansa was just fine. We arrived in Munich to a FIVE hour layover (Yikes! Munich airport is just superior, so they say, if you are in a hurry between planes, but five hours? GRRRR!)

We whiled away the time by guessing who else in that big waiting room was also on "OUR" trip??? We chose all the people we would NOT want to be on a trip with - (of course, as has happened to us on prior trips, they turned out to be our Best Friends within days of our arrival.)

When we arrived from Munich to Krakow, we were met by the sainted Beata, who never left our sides (36 sides, by the way.)(not my usual mode, in which DH and I travel alone) and off we went to the unusual Hotel Farmona on the outskirts of Krakow. (this was a glitch which turned out OK) Farmona, a newish spa hotel, in a lovely park like setting, with great food, great rooms, and a huge panoply of cream and lotion samples in our rooms. We spent two nights here before we ended up in our REAL destination, Andel's Hotel, very near the Medieval Center of Krakow.

Consider this page one of my travel report. After all, it had been a long day, and night.

Looking forward to hearing more! I am Polish by descent and would love to visit again after 17 years!

Reading with interest. Looking forward to more. Thanks for posting.

Beata: I'll get to more of the trip tomorrow, but had to tell you that our Tour Director was named Beata, a lovely person, very intelligent and most attractive, and such a great help thoughout the trip. We kept called her "the blessed one" you are fortunate to have to name!

I will be very interested to read your report. I had to cancel a solo Poland trip in September, but am still eager to get there, especially to Krakow.

Good afternoon, all: here is more of my trip.

But first, I must tell you all that we found a little book at the second hotel we stayed in, called "Krakow in Your Pocket" and it was a gem! Full of great history, ideas, etc. and HILARIOUS as well - you can't beat that. I later learned there is one for Warsaw, and that there in an "In Your Pocket" website and guides for other European countries. Don't miss it. I have no idea who does it, but I've never seen a better guide - and it was free.

So -- here we were at Andel's Hotel, after two nights at the Farmona. (see previous post)By the way,our dinner at Farmona, (porcini soup, goulash, lemon ice,)was one of our better meals.

I forgot to say we traveled on Lufthansa through Munich, to Krakow, on an Airbus 600-340, which had the restrooms downstairs!! a first for me - I liked that! We had good food, and all the wine and booze you could ever want, no, MORE than you'd ever want. I have a feeling they wanted everyone to pass out, or else the Germans drink a lot. There was a long wait in Munich, just boring, but Munich airport is quite nice.

By the time we got to Andel's Hotel, we had had a couple of wonderful lectures about Polish history, a real plus for such a visit. This history is fascinating, and I can recommend a text book (not what most people want, probably, but for the terminally Planning types:) It's called The Polish Way, by a Prof. Zamoyski. I read a lot of the middle parts, on suggestion of Brown Professor Duncan Smith, our lecturer, before we traveled.

A tour of the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow is a must in my opinion, and here I really got a visual on what it was to live there, and I could only imagine the horror of being there during WWII.

Andel's Hotel is everything they say about it on TripAdvisor, and I guess I've heard it here also. Great location, very good service, lovely rooms, super buffet breakfast. The reason we didn't stay there for four nights, however, was THEIR mistake. This is my own conclusion, after reading that a few people have complained on websites about Andel's overbooking mistakes. (And they gave us each a bottle of very nice wine, with a note of apology.) Our room was contemporary, with great pillows and duvets (big deal for me) and a fab. bathroom, large, with huge shower. And there we were between a huge new shopping center and the beckoning medieval town!

However, as soon as we arrived (in the early morning) we were whisked off on a day trip.

The day trip was to Ojcow National park (pronounced "oit-soof") and Pieskowa Scala, a charming castle/musuem within the park. This was a very good day out in the country - where we could walk and visit the garden, and see what Polish families might do on a Sunday. It is about one hour northwest of Krakow. Lunch was available at the castle, which we ejoyed after visiting the families' collection throughout the castle. Food was more than adequate, but not high class gourmet. Still, when you're hungry.....

I know most of you are not "tour" joiners, and neither am I for the most part - but this was really good as tours go - we did have to break away a couple of times, though --- more later. thanks for reading thus far.

Hi there: Is anybody interested in any more about this trip? I don't want to bore people. Maybe I should just answer questions about Poland. I have a feeling that lack of response just proves my point that people do not know enough about Poland, and I found it such a fascinating place, (not always in a good way, but fascinating nevertheless.)

I'm still reading. :)

Please keep posting. I am enjoying it. My son is interested in going to Krakow in the spring and I will forward your trip report to him. He wants to go to the ghetto, for sure. He is interested in learning about Poland.

I am very interested in reading more! Poland, especially Krakow, is one of the places we're considering for our Sept. '08 trip!

Thanks for posting this; I've enjoyed it!

Please do post. I'm another who continues to be interested. And really, one thing I've learned about Fodor's: lack of response doesn't mean people aren't reading. A further thing to consider is how useful your report will be to future people who pull it up in the course of a search.

lucy d, caitlinO, Virgogirl, and Noe847 - thanks for your input. I'll keep posting the report.
I realize now that I haven't actually posted a Trip Report before, though I have sent some small answers and comments, (as "betsyS" - changed my email address and my Fodor name.) It's nice to know that others do what I now realize I've been doing, (bookmarking for future trips, without actually posting a "reply.")

I am reading your report and enjoying it. Please keep it coming. I have been to Poland and loved it, so am enjoying revisiting parts where I was and looking for ideas for my next trip there.

By the way, if your screen name has anything to do with where you live, we might be neighbors in a manner of speaking. I live just over the Mass. line.

I encourage you to keep posting! I love learning about the country of my heritage! Will definitely reference this when I go back to visit after almost 20 years!

Well then, irishface (and maybe taconictraveler), I was in your neck of the woods last week (and have a few glorious foliage shots to prove it!)

Well, Irishface and Noe847 - I live near the Taconic Parkway, in New York state, but on the edge of Connecticut, (my beloved home state) - and the foliage has been terrific this year! Also, all my family heritage is Irish, and I have been told I have an Irishface. (Remember: "six degrees of separation.") We met several people on our trip with whom we found connections very rapidly. It's fun.
More trip report tomorrow, when my calendar is free. Thanks for all the encouragement, everyone.

Here's Part 3 of my trip:
About the Ojcow National Park, it is really a nice change from the cities we visited, and for those who like nature and walking, I really recommend it. It's huge and there are many limestone towers carved from the cliffs by the centuries of storms, making it a very romantic place.

Lunch at the Pieskows Castle in the park was much like others we'd had (this was not a gourmet trip, but food always interests me.) It was first course: three salads: red cabbage, regular cole slaw, and carrots, all separately shredded, followed by turkey cutlets and roasted potatoes (roasted potatoes were excellent everywhere we went) and that was followed by a deliciious (Polish) tiramisu. (I never can pass up anyone's tiramisu.

That evening back in Krakow, we were escorted to, sadly, a tourist trap, called Hawelka, on the giant Ryneck Glowny, where we had indifferent food, except for the porcini soup served in a bread bowl, followed by Polish costumed dancing.


Prior to dinner, Priscilla and I raced over to the Czartoryski Museum, (not on the tour) cuz we just HAD to see Leonardo's Lady With The Ermine. It was a free day (every Wednesday, I guess) and worth every penny!! Rembrandt's Good Samaritan is also there, not as arresting, but worth a look. Also worth a look are all the military memorabilia there. The Poles have a very distinguished military history, especially important for the military gear both for men and horses, which added to the historic fearlessness and bravery of their troops. (cf. the Kosciusko Squadron in WWII) This is very important to Poles. We saw a whole floor devoted to military costumes and weapons at the National Museum, but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Another important aside: COPERNICUS

The fact that Copernicus actually changed the entire view of the universe is very important to Polish identity - as he was born in Torun, always part of Poland, (tho apparently the Germans claimed him for a while.)AND Copernicus thrived where Galileo was hunted by the church, and this, our lecturer claimed, was because the Poles, though thoroughly Catholic, defied the Pope on a regular basis.

Sorry for historic digression, but it was all part of the fascination for me.

On Thursday, Priscilla and I once again jumped ship, having no desire for a 4 hour bus ride to Torun and back. (I figure I've lived many decates without seeing the birthplace of Copernicus, and I can probably carry on in the same way.)

We were glad we set off for the National Museum. (I am a total museum freak, including museum shops, and restaurants) We took a cab, as it was a little out of the way, so we learned how easy it was and how cheap (around $3. as I recall.

The Museum has an entire floor devoted to Polish painters of the turn of the century, known as the Art Deco or (in Germany) the Jugendstil period. These painters, unknown to me, are every bit as good as any others I've seen (Klimt, now so popular, comes to mind) This was a treasure house, and we stayed a long time, drinking in the beauty and the thrill of discovering something we had not known existed.

The National Museum building itself, outside the Planty (the park surrounding the medieval center) and near the Cracovia Hotel, is an Art Deco masterpiece.There were NO tourists in the museum, a mystery to me.

Next, on our day off, was lunch at Pod Aniolami, (thanks to all on Fodors who mentioned it, otherwise I would have passed it by.) where we had a wonderful mixed salad, with ewe cheese (a personal favorite)The bread was the BEST we'd had and the Sauvignon from Santa Rita, the best white wine I'd had. Of course we planned to go back, because, not only was it charming, but they had a lot of vegetarian dishes on the menu, but we never got there. It was more expensive than other meals, but still much cheaper than NYC let's say.

We stopped to look at the Hotel Copernicus, (where Skatedancer stayed, so I knew it must be good) and indeed, this is probably the premier hotel in Krakow, near the castle, Relais & Chateaux, charming public rooms, well-touted restaurant, prob. about $250 double. That would be a lot for Krakow, cuz you can get really charming, clean, pleasant hotels in the medieval section for MUCH less.

People watching in the Ryneck Glowny is probably the local national pastime (is that an oxymoron?) and we succumbed every time we passed thru. This time we photographed 6 or 7 young Polish guys in khaki pants and red T-shirts who were break dancing. (and doing a great job of it!!)

I'm giving you too much detail I guess, but I'm re-living every moment, and loving it. Will try to get more brief.

Yes, please keep writing. The lack of responses does not always mean lack of interest in reading it.
I visited Poland a year ago, we found it facinating and I posted a comprehensive trip report under Amazing Poland because it was and I thought others planning a trip to Poland could use the information, just like I have from other reports. The report generated few responses but perhaps many did read it.
Poland just does not get that many "hits" but if anyone justs visits Krakow, for example, they'll know about Poland.

Ok, another post of the KRAKOW part of my trip: (it's a day off for me - my birthday! - and I have no commitments!)

Here are some of the more superficial but pleasant parts of Krakow, enjoyed by my roommate and myself away from the tour group:

1. GALLERIA KRAKOWSKA - gigantic shopping center, filled with shoppers, mostly young people, with lots of food and coffee places.

There is an English Bookstore on the second floor - look for it, it's worthwhile

2. CHIMERA: I haven't read about this restaurant on this forum - but I spotted it while on a walking tour earlier. I knew from my trusty small map that it was on the way to our concert that evening. (we skipped dinner with the group for the concert) It is in the old town, at Sw. Anny #3. I found it later written up as "one of the best places in Krakow for fresh fruit and salad and vegetables." It seems like a lot of students go there. It is downstairs in a rabbit warren of basement rooms, like many others. We entered and the sweet young hostess knew she had real neophytes on her hands. We didn't know food was served cafeteria style. She finally went and got us food, taking pity on these two little old ladies who spoke no Polish! We had a SUPERB beet, cabbage, horseradish soup - with what I have to call a mushroom/cabbage "empanada" (nothing like the pierogies we had been served)The soup was CLEAR like bouillon, but had such an intense depth of flavor I could hardly believe it. We each had that each had a glass of (just OK) wine,some brown bread, and a delicious plum cake, with meringue, all served by this darling young woman, cost us a grand total of $10.00 including the tip. I would go back in a flash for that soup.

3. The Philharmonic Hall. We got lost going two blocks, which is a wonder, but I took a wrong turn out of the restaurant. Anyway we were on time to investigate this lovely hall, and find our ($8.00) seats for the Prague Philharmonic, a fairly new orchestra which played a perfect concert of Smetana's Bartered Bride Overture, a Chopin Piano Concerto, and Dvorak's New World Symphony. Couldn't have been a better evening.

NEXT - OFF TO CZECHTOCHOWA AND WARSAW.

hi, betsy,

I've jsut found your trip report and I'm hooked - keep it coming, please.

we're hoping to make it to Poland in 2008/9 as krakov is one of my DH's must dos so the detail on where to go [and NOT to go] is very welcome.

regards, ann

I'm just home from work and discovering another installment about Poland...fascinating! And Happy Birthday!

Thanks, all for the encouragement. I'm going to try to finsih up maybe tomorrow, but birthday celebrations are continuing, (the more the merrier, at my age)

So glad a lot more people are interested in Poland. I haven't been so interested in a country in a long time. I have loved France and Italy and Ireland and Portugal for a long, long time, but this is a new and unexpected infatuation ( a mature love affair, I guess)

This is the fourth section of my Poland Trip Report:

CZECHTOCHOWA

I hope this spelling is correct.

First, let me say, I am not a fan of religious pilgrimage sites. I find it depressing that people give up a lot to go because they hope for cures. I do not, however, wish to denigrate anyone's belief.

Here goes:
As we left Krakow on the bus, our dear tour director, Beata, said: "Krakow is crying because you are leaving." (A really sweet way to pass off a little rain. Probably been used before but I liked it)

There were many surprising things about this pilgrimage site. I was not surprised to see gigantic parking lots, but I was surprised to see a beautiful slim graceful Cathedral spire, of what looked like the spire of a stunning 18th Century Congregational church in Litchfield, Conn!!

We were led directly into this basilica, and to the chapel of the Black Madonna, where a mass was being celebrated to a standing room only audience of pilgrims. I have to say, that it was all conducted in a most quiet and courteous way, and I was very impressed by the quiet devotion that I saw, as well as the way the whole place is organized.

Now that I have been there, I would not hesitate to suggest that tourists go to the place, so revered by the Poles, 98% of whom are Catholic. It is very much a part of the culture of this higly Catholic country.

We lunched, along with hundreds of pilgrims, in one of the many restaurants down town that cater to the busloads of people who come every day. (Ours was a fairly light day, we were told.)

WARSAW

Our bus motored on to Warsaw, where we arrived in the very late afternoon, and checked in to the Intercontinental Hotel, right in the center of the city, near the train station, a huge new shopping center, and most of all, across the street from the Cultural Center, a terminally ugly high rise building which was a gift of Russia to Poland. (Think University of Moscow) The Poles say that the best view of Warsaw is from the top of the Cultural Center, because you can't see the Cultural Center from there!!

The Intercontinental Hotel occupies 20 or so of the highest floors in a brand new building. Our 25th floor room was extremely lovely, perfectly outfitted, and featured a staggering view over at least one-half of Warsaw.

All around us we saw new skyscrapers, a testament to the new economic advances in Warsaw.

I liked the location of the Interconental very much, and the service was first class in all ways. Breakfasts were buffet style, with every known breakfast food, and a few unknown choices. There is a marvelous health club way up on the 42nd and 43rd floors,with 360 degree views, and all of the best state of the art equipment you could possibly imagine - also a charming little cafe, with free apples and lemon water and orange water and newspapers and CNN. The pool looked mighty inviting, but of course I left the bathing suit at home.

Thanks so much for taking the time to post about your trip to Poland. I think the University sponsored program sounded great- a good combination of history, culture, and experts to guide you, then time to do your own thing. You've inspired me to start planning a trip there....

Ok, all those who are STILL reading - for the benefit of POLAND, I'll finish my trip report. (That is to say, that this country deserves many more visitors,in fact, we hope to go back with Dutch friends in the spring.)

WARSAW, (cont.)We were fortunate to meet with a young Polish student who had spent a year in Syracuse studying, and a much older gentleman, who was a survivor of the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. It was mesmerizing to hear him reminisce, even tho he spoke only Polish. The young man was shy but charming, and gave us a glimpse of what Poland could become.

Of course, one of the highlights of WARSAW was the Old Town, "the newest medieval city in the world" (it really did look a bit like a movie set, since its all been rebuilt from old photos, etc.) where we had a really good meal at a place just off the square, called TARTUFFE, where we had a delicious beef strogonoff and REALLY good white wine.

That evening in the pouring rain (it only rained for 20 minutes the whole time I was in Poland, but this had to be it, when I put on my best shoes.) we walked thru Lazienski Park past the Chopin Monument to a lovely palace for a thoroughly enjoyable Chopin piano concert, by the head of the Music Dept. of Warsaw Univ.

On our last day, we drove out of the city to WILANOW, pronounced "veelanov" called the Versailles of Poland. An elegant sprawling palace, this was fun, even though it was another tour through another castle, because we had the chance to see lovely gardens there, plus a view of the "suburbs" on the way. Even better, our bus got "stuck" in traffic on the way back, for, guess what, a MARATHON!

Lunch at CARPE DIEM (near the hotel) was quite good stuffed rolled chicken, roasted potatoes, cole slaw, and apple cake.

In the afternoon we went to the new WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM. This museum is all the rage, and is certainly done with all the most contemporary ways of exhibiting, it is really full of interactive stuff, appeals to children, but is rather confusing. That is not to say one should not go there. I think it is one of the MUSTS.

Our final meal was at the FRENCH BRASSERIE , in an office tower, between the Intercontinental Hotel and the new Golden Circle (or Golden something) shopping center, but I can't remember an exact address. Too bad, cuz it was a pretty good meal - that is to say that everything but the beef roulandes themselves was excellent, lots of veggies served, which I love, and a frozen chocolate mousse for dessert, and lots of good wine.

My impressions of Poland were excellent all the way, with the possible exception of food, about which I have talked earlier. I found it charming, much of it beautiful, enigmatic in its history, sad yet full of promise.

There is a lot more to see in Warsaw, and I would want to go to the mountains at Zakopane, as well as to Gdansk and Torun, and especially out in to the countryside more.

For further information re hotels:

The Sheraton is in a very upmarket part of the city, (you can tell by all the shops around it, like Escada) in the embassy district.

There is a new Hilton, which is near the Museum of the Warsaw Uprising, that those who love contemporary architecture would really dig.

And finally, there is a new Courtyard By Marriott right at Warsaw Airport, always good to know.

hi, betsy,

thanks for posting this. Although our intinerary doesn't include Warsaw, you still convey an excellent flavour of the country which is always valuable.

Regards, ann

We also dined at Chimera in Krakow and had an excellent meal. It was cozy and warm (we were there in cold, snowy March 06) and both the food and service got thumbs up.

Betsy, I'm so glad you pointed me to your report! I never noticed it before. It looks like you didn't click on "Poland" when you originally posted it; I wonder if you can get it filed there now, so that when people are searching Poland, it will come right up.

You busted me on my hotel -- not sure it's the most expensive, in Krakow, but yes, it was more than many.... To me, the location, the pool and the rooftop terrace of the Copernicus were really worth it. And, compared to many other destinations, luxury hotels are a relative bargain!

The two museums I really regret not making it to were the one in Krakow with the DaVinci and the Uprising in Warsaw, but it was hard to fit everything in as it was!

The "In Your Pocket" guides are all available online, at, surprisingly enough, inyourpocket.com :) They have a list of cities to choose from.

Great report, of course, Taconic Traveler!

Skatedancer: Thanks for the kind words. Not intending to bust you, but to inform people that staying in a Relais & Chateaux in places like Poland is a real travel "coup." Something one should look for, why not??? You have good taste, or at least you have similar taste to mine, and if I go back to Krakow with DH, he's most likely want to stop at Hotel Copernicus. (though I must say, Andel's Hotel was superduper.)

Thanks Betsy, your report is helpful to me, I'll be there in a couple weeks!

Though I'm still somewhat confused, I thank you all for trying to help. Eventually I'll figure it out. just want to get info to people who are traveling to Poland, as it hasn't been as popular as it should be.

Lucky you, FIDEL, that you're going in a couple of weeks.

I realize, in reviewing my overlong report, that I didn't go in to much detail about Krakow's sites - and I just want to say there is much to see and do, easily found, once there, and most things are accessible on site. (e.g. not like the Scavi tour in Rome.) Enjoy.