Sempre Diritto: A few notes about my Southern Italy low budget trip (Campania & Sicily)
Dec 10th, 2008, 02:13 AM
#21
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Hi again and I'm glad that you guys are enjoying my "notes".
I didn't know about the Rome-Siracusa train being loaded onto the ferry, Thurdaysd. I took the Eurostar down to Reggio Calabria because I thought it would've saved me time, but, in the end, I think it took me the same. I saw buses going all the way up to Taormina from the train station, but it was already becoming dark and since I knew that the B&B wasn't in the historic center, I just wanted to get there the easiest way.
I agree with you, Caroline. Taormina might not be excatly the most sicilian place in Sicily, but the views and the greek theater are a must in my opinion.
This is my Cefalù part of the trip:
CEFALÙ
After Taormina, I headed to Cefalù. I stayed at www.conventisicilia.it for 02 nights. I found this convent on www.cefaluonline.com. I tried to find an inexpensive B&B to stay in Cefalù, but they were all kind of expensive. I paid 80 Euros (credit cards aren’t accepted) for a double room, but, unlike other convents I’ve stayed, breakfast wasn’t included. However, it was right on the tip of the historic center, on the intersection between via Ortolano di Bordonaro and via Vittorio Emanuele, (I took picture # 112 from its terrace) and my room had a view over the sea. The room didn’t have AC, like other convents I’ve stayed, but the weather was still mild so that wasn’t a problem. I loved going to bed listening to the sea gently crashing against the town’s breakwater. Cefalù was absolutely charming in my opinion. It is touristy, but, unlike Taormina, it had a strong Sicilian atmosphere. I really enjoyed sitting on Piazza del Duomo and watching the local seniors gathered together talking unaware of tourism in the evening. One evening, while my mother and I were talking, a senior man heard us talking in Spanish and he immediately asked us where we were from and started talking. It was funny how he explained that he spoke some Spanish too because he’d lived in Switzerland, which, unless he took a course there, is not spoken in that country. Ever since we arrived at the town, we noticed how locals spoke mostly dialect among them and when my mother asked him about that he said that depending on the area of Sicily, the dialect changed. Cefalù is tiny. It’s also made up a few main streets filled with all kinds of shops: clothing stores, grocery stores, restaurants, ice-cream parlors, bakeries, etc. I thought that the amber-stoned Duomo was fascinating because of its Moorish flavor (I’m not an art scholar so, perhaps, I’m using the wrong term to describe it) and the apse mosaic a highlight. However, my favorite thing about Cefalù was the hike up to the promontory right behind the town. This promontory along with Monte Solaro, in Capri, was one of the highlights of my trip. Beautiful views among pine trees and an atmosphere of calmness. I think I’d go back to Cefalù just to do this hike again. I also loved the beach. Still, crystal waters and fine sandy beach were a nice break from the pebbly beaches of Taormina and the Amalfi Coast. In terms of food, the “impepata di cozze” (mussels seasoned with pepper) at a restaurant on Corso Ruggero was a highlight along with cannolo filled with ice-cream at one of bars on Piazza del Duomo. To sum it up, Cefalù might be tiny and very easy to visit as a day trip from Palermo, but spending a few nights was totally worth it because, after the day trippers are gone, it becomes magically sleepy.
Coming up next: Palermo.
I didn't know about the Rome-Siracusa train being loaded onto the ferry, Thurdaysd. I took the Eurostar down to Reggio Calabria because I thought it would've saved me time, but, in the end, I think it took me the same. I saw buses going all the way up to Taormina from the train station, but it was already becoming dark and since I knew that the B&B wasn't in the historic center, I just wanted to get there the easiest way.
I agree with you, Caroline. Taormina might not be excatly the most sicilian place in Sicily, but the views and the greek theater are a must in my opinion.
This is my Cefalù part of the trip:
CEFALÙ
After Taormina, I headed to Cefalù. I stayed at www.conventisicilia.it for 02 nights. I found this convent on www.cefaluonline.com. I tried to find an inexpensive B&B to stay in Cefalù, but they were all kind of expensive. I paid 80 Euros (credit cards aren’t accepted) for a double room, but, unlike other convents I’ve stayed, breakfast wasn’t included. However, it was right on the tip of the historic center, on the intersection between via Ortolano di Bordonaro and via Vittorio Emanuele, (I took picture # 112 from its terrace) and my room had a view over the sea. The room didn’t have AC, like other convents I’ve stayed, but the weather was still mild so that wasn’t a problem. I loved going to bed listening to the sea gently crashing against the town’s breakwater. Cefalù was absolutely charming in my opinion. It is touristy, but, unlike Taormina, it had a strong Sicilian atmosphere. I really enjoyed sitting on Piazza del Duomo and watching the local seniors gathered together talking unaware of tourism in the evening. One evening, while my mother and I were talking, a senior man heard us talking in Spanish and he immediately asked us where we were from and started talking. It was funny how he explained that he spoke some Spanish too because he’d lived in Switzerland, which, unless he took a course there, is not spoken in that country. Ever since we arrived at the town, we noticed how locals spoke mostly dialect among them and when my mother asked him about that he said that depending on the area of Sicily, the dialect changed. Cefalù is tiny. It’s also made up a few main streets filled with all kinds of shops: clothing stores, grocery stores, restaurants, ice-cream parlors, bakeries, etc. I thought that the amber-stoned Duomo was fascinating because of its Moorish flavor (I’m not an art scholar so, perhaps, I’m using the wrong term to describe it) and the apse mosaic a highlight. However, my favorite thing about Cefalù was the hike up to the promontory right behind the town. This promontory along with Monte Solaro, in Capri, was one of the highlights of my trip. Beautiful views among pine trees and an atmosphere of calmness. I think I’d go back to Cefalù just to do this hike again. I also loved the beach. Still, crystal waters and fine sandy beach were a nice break from the pebbly beaches of Taormina and the Amalfi Coast. In terms of food, the “impepata di cozze” (mussels seasoned with pepper) at a restaurant on Corso Ruggero was a highlight along with cannolo filled with ice-cream at one of bars on Piazza del Duomo. To sum it up, Cefalù might be tiny and very easy to visit as a day trip from Palermo, but spending a few nights was totally worth it because, after the day trippers are gone, it becomes magically sleepy.
Coming up next: Palermo.
Dec 14th, 2008, 03:50 AM
#23
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Hi again,
Sorry it took me so long to post my last part of the trip but this was my last week of work and I was insanely busy.
Yes Caroline, the cannolo filled with ice-cream was the best. it wasn't regular ice-cream, though. It was ice-cream made with the filling regular cannoli are made of.
This is my Palermo part of the trip:
PALERMO
After hiking up again the Cefalù promontory early in the morning, I picked up my luggage at the convent and boarded the 45 minute train to Palermo. The day was rather hot, and, as I came out of the train station, I thought: “this is Hell”. It was absolute chaos, and, after being in Taormina and Cefalù, I somehow felt that I was going to hate it. I asked a bus driver where I could take a taxi and, after learning where I was headed, he said he could take me but I had to wait a few minutes until it was time to leave. I bought the bus tickets and a few minutes later, we were on out way (just the bus driver, my mother and I) to via Alloro, in la Kalsa. We were dropped off at the northern end of via Alloro, and, to be honest, I felt a little bit intimidated. My book guide describes it as the main artery of this historic quarter and it was so seedy and lonely that I couldn’t imagine walking it late at night. We walked down the whole street because the B&B turned out to be at the southern end of it, near via Roma, and while many buildings were undergoing restoration, it seems that there’s still a lot to be done. I stayed at www.bandbilmezzaninodelgattopardo.it for 04 nights. I found it recommended here on Fodor’s, and it’s located on the second floor of a historic building. I paid 80 Euros for a double room with breakfast included. It’s actually an apartment with two rooms and since there were no other guests at the moment, we had the whole place to ourselves. The ceiling was a little low and the apartment is a little dark so it gives you a slight sense of oppression. However, after settling down, we discovered how pleasant it was. It’s tastefully decorated and I didn’t feel as if we were staying at somebody else’s house; we simply felt home. There were only two things I didn’t like about it: there was something about it that tells you that it’s not cleaned very often, and while the breakfast was abundant, it was boring. It consisted of all kinds of sweet dough and, by the second day, I already hated it and wanted to have breakfast somewhere else. I didn’t like Palermo at first. Its historic center is quite seedy and nostalgic and, at some parts, it gives you the feeling of being in a ghost city, but as the days passed, it became one of my favorite cities in Italy. San Cataldo and la Martorana were my favorite churches and Ballarò and IL Capo my favorite markets. I was amazed not only by the wonderful products being sold but mostly by their colorful vendors and the hundreds of religious images and statuettes kept as signs of devotion and faith. I had an excellent lunch at a diner in IL Capo Market. They have a sort of fixed menu from which you can choose an appetizer, a first course and a second course. The whole place was crowded with locals and we were the only tourists having lunch because when the waitress (the cook’s daughter) asked for whom the food we ordered was, the cook answered: “per i turisti!”. We had Peperonata (a typical Sicilian appetizer) and Spaghetti alle Vongole, and we spent around 15 Euros for everything. In the new part of the city, we had dinner several times at a diner called “Renna” near Via Roma and Via Principe di Belmonte. There’s absolutely no atmosphere, but it’s not tourist-oriented at all, which means that you’ll eat excellent food at an excellent price. My only disappointment was Pasta con le Sarde (another typical Sicilian dish), but I must admit that it was because I’ve never liked sardines. The risottos were excellent and the pasta with eggplant pesto was a highlight. We never spent more than 20 Euros for an appetizer, a first course and a second course and, unlike the diner at IL Capo Market, credit cards are accepted. I spent a day touring the historic center and another day doing some shopping in the new part of the city. I liked the shopping in Palermo better than in Naples. There’s a wide range of shops equal to northern cities such a Turin, which is my favorite city in Italy. Two things I will remember about Palermo concerning its people? I was looking for a supermarket on Piazza Marina, but I got lost. When I asked a couple of ladies talking on a square right in front of a residential building, they immediately asked a couple of ladies sitting on the balcony of the first floor, and these two asked another couple of ladies who were sitting on the second floor and these two another couple on the third floor. It was funny to see how “the whole building” was concerned and eager to help me find the supermarket that I was talking about. Another anecdote happened on my way back from Monreale to Palermo. We’d decided to take the bus and after a middle-aged man heard us talking in Italian this time, he asked us if we were from Switzerland (he reminded me of the man in Cefalù who spoke Spanish because he’d been in Switzerland) and after we started talking he talked to me about Sicilians all the way down to Palermo. He told me about how palermitans inherited the fact of being a bit showy, in terms of what they are and what they have, because of their Spanish inheritance and that, unlike northern Italians, they paid a lot of attention to what other people thought of them. I don’t know whether he’s right or not but I must admit that even though the B&B owner was a nice and talkative guy, he certainly was a bit showy because, the day I met him, he let me know how he was kind of an important architect in Palermo.
MONREALE & MONDELLO
After visiting the fascinating capuchin catacombs on my third day in Palermo, I decided to go to Monreale. We decided to take the bus rather than taking a taxi how we’d previously planned. We waited and we waited and after a while, we asked a fruit vendor whether or not that was the right bus stop and he said that, in summer, bus up to Monreale are limited to one every hour because there is no more school and the rest of the buses are used to service Mondello. After almost an hour of waiting, we decided to go to a bar to buy a couple of panini for lunch and when we finally came out, the bus was just leaving and missed it. We, then, decided to walk towards Monreale so that when another hour had passed, we could take the bus at another bus stop and, somehow, be closer. After a while, my mother decided to get into a shop and when we came out, once again the bus was leaving and we missed it! I’d read that Monreale was at less than 10 km away from Palermo and, since we love walking, we decided to go on foot. I’d read in my book guide that Monreale was surrounded by Palermo’s unpleasant suburbs, but I think that statement was a bit exagerated; they’re just suburbs. When we got to the foot of the hill on which Monreale is, we went into another bar from refreshments and a snack. We tried a cassata and it was very good. We couldn’t believe we’d waited that long to try it. Afterwards, we then decided to go all the way up to Monreale. My only complain would be weather which was hot, but I seriously thought it was going to be a steeper climb. After having some refreshments at a bar in Monreale, we headed for the cathedral. All I’m going to say is that the cathedral along with St. Mark’s Basilica is Venice, is so far my favorite church in Italy. The rest of the town is nothing to make a fuss about but I liked the fact that, cathedral apart, it was a real town where common Sicilians live. The following day, I headed to Mondello for my last day of beach. I really liked it. It is a white and sandy beach with quiet and crystal waters. It was crowded with local teenagers, but it was a nice beach break before going home.
All in all, Palermo isn’t exactly the right place to visit if you’re looking for sublime beauty. However, it’s the right place if you’re looking for a vibrant, real Italian city with colorful people, picturesque street markets and decadent, nostalgic architecture and a strong sense of religion. They’re definitely two extremely different cities, but Palermo and Turin are so far my two favorite non-touristy cities in Italy.
These are my short notes about my low-budget trip to southern Italy. I can’t wait to visit Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria.
Thank you guys and I'm glad you've enjoyed it!
Sorry it took me so long to post my last part of the trip but this was my last week of work and I was insanely busy.
Yes Caroline, the cannolo filled with ice-cream was the best. it wasn't regular ice-cream, though. It was ice-cream made with the filling regular cannoli are made of.
This is my Palermo part of the trip:
PALERMO
After hiking up again the Cefalù promontory early in the morning, I picked up my luggage at the convent and boarded the 45 minute train to Palermo. The day was rather hot, and, as I came out of the train station, I thought: “this is Hell”. It was absolute chaos, and, after being in Taormina and Cefalù, I somehow felt that I was going to hate it. I asked a bus driver where I could take a taxi and, after learning where I was headed, he said he could take me but I had to wait a few minutes until it was time to leave. I bought the bus tickets and a few minutes later, we were on out way (just the bus driver, my mother and I) to via Alloro, in la Kalsa. We were dropped off at the northern end of via Alloro, and, to be honest, I felt a little bit intimidated. My book guide describes it as the main artery of this historic quarter and it was so seedy and lonely that I couldn’t imagine walking it late at night. We walked down the whole street because the B&B turned out to be at the southern end of it, near via Roma, and while many buildings were undergoing restoration, it seems that there’s still a lot to be done. I stayed at www.bandbilmezzaninodelgattopardo.it for 04 nights. I found it recommended here on Fodor’s, and it’s located on the second floor of a historic building. I paid 80 Euros for a double room with breakfast included. It’s actually an apartment with two rooms and since there were no other guests at the moment, we had the whole place to ourselves. The ceiling was a little low and the apartment is a little dark so it gives you a slight sense of oppression. However, after settling down, we discovered how pleasant it was. It’s tastefully decorated and I didn’t feel as if we were staying at somebody else’s house; we simply felt home. There were only two things I didn’t like about it: there was something about it that tells you that it’s not cleaned very often, and while the breakfast was abundant, it was boring. It consisted of all kinds of sweet dough and, by the second day, I already hated it and wanted to have breakfast somewhere else. I didn’t like Palermo at first. Its historic center is quite seedy and nostalgic and, at some parts, it gives you the feeling of being in a ghost city, but as the days passed, it became one of my favorite cities in Italy. San Cataldo and la Martorana were my favorite churches and Ballarò and IL Capo my favorite markets. I was amazed not only by the wonderful products being sold but mostly by their colorful vendors and the hundreds of religious images and statuettes kept as signs of devotion and faith. I had an excellent lunch at a diner in IL Capo Market. They have a sort of fixed menu from which you can choose an appetizer, a first course and a second course. The whole place was crowded with locals and we were the only tourists having lunch because when the waitress (the cook’s daughter) asked for whom the food we ordered was, the cook answered: “per i turisti!”. We had Peperonata (a typical Sicilian appetizer) and Spaghetti alle Vongole, and we spent around 15 Euros for everything. In the new part of the city, we had dinner several times at a diner called “Renna” near Via Roma and Via Principe di Belmonte. There’s absolutely no atmosphere, but it’s not tourist-oriented at all, which means that you’ll eat excellent food at an excellent price. My only disappointment was Pasta con le Sarde (another typical Sicilian dish), but I must admit that it was because I’ve never liked sardines. The risottos were excellent and the pasta with eggplant pesto was a highlight. We never spent more than 20 Euros for an appetizer, a first course and a second course and, unlike the diner at IL Capo Market, credit cards are accepted. I spent a day touring the historic center and another day doing some shopping in the new part of the city. I liked the shopping in Palermo better than in Naples. There’s a wide range of shops equal to northern cities such a Turin, which is my favorite city in Italy. Two things I will remember about Palermo concerning its people? I was looking for a supermarket on Piazza Marina, but I got lost. When I asked a couple of ladies talking on a square right in front of a residential building, they immediately asked a couple of ladies sitting on the balcony of the first floor, and these two asked another couple of ladies who were sitting on the second floor and these two another couple on the third floor. It was funny to see how “the whole building” was concerned and eager to help me find the supermarket that I was talking about. Another anecdote happened on my way back from Monreale to Palermo. We’d decided to take the bus and after a middle-aged man heard us talking in Italian this time, he asked us if we were from Switzerland (he reminded me of the man in Cefalù who spoke Spanish because he’d been in Switzerland) and after we started talking he talked to me about Sicilians all the way down to Palermo. He told me about how palermitans inherited the fact of being a bit showy, in terms of what they are and what they have, because of their Spanish inheritance and that, unlike northern Italians, they paid a lot of attention to what other people thought of them. I don’t know whether he’s right or not but I must admit that even though the B&B owner was a nice and talkative guy, he certainly was a bit showy because, the day I met him, he let me know how he was kind of an important architect in Palermo.
MONREALE & MONDELLO
After visiting the fascinating capuchin catacombs on my third day in Palermo, I decided to go to Monreale. We decided to take the bus rather than taking a taxi how we’d previously planned. We waited and we waited and after a while, we asked a fruit vendor whether or not that was the right bus stop and he said that, in summer, bus up to Monreale are limited to one every hour because there is no more school and the rest of the buses are used to service Mondello. After almost an hour of waiting, we decided to go to a bar to buy a couple of panini for lunch and when we finally came out, the bus was just leaving and missed it. We, then, decided to walk towards Monreale so that when another hour had passed, we could take the bus at another bus stop and, somehow, be closer. After a while, my mother decided to get into a shop and when we came out, once again the bus was leaving and we missed it! I’d read that Monreale was at less than 10 km away from Palermo and, since we love walking, we decided to go on foot. I’d read in my book guide that Monreale was surrounded by Palermo’s unpleasant suburbs, but I think that statement was a bit exagerated; they’re just suburbs. When we got to the foot of the hill on which Monreale is, we went into another bar from refreshments and a snack. We tried a cassata and it was very good. We couldn’t believe we’d waited that long to try it. Afterwards, we then decided to go all the way up to Monreale. My only complain would be weather which was hot, but I seriously thought it was going to be a steeper climb. After having some refreshments at a bar in Monreale, we headed for the cathedral. All I’m going to say is that the cathedral along with St. Mark’s Basilica is Venice, is so far my favorite church in Italy. The rest of the town is nothing to make a fuss about but I liked the fact that, cathedral apart, it was a real town where common Sicilians live. The following day, I headed to Mondello for my last day of beach. I really liked it. It is a white and sandy beach with quiet and crystal waters. It was crowded with local teenagers, but it was a nice beach break before going home.
All in all, Palermo isn’t exactly the right place to visit if you’re looking for sublime beauty. However, it’s the right place if you’re looking for a vibrant, real Italian city with colorful people, picturesque street markets and decadent, nostalgic architecture and a strong sense of religion. They’re definitely two extremely different cities, but Palermo and Turin are so far my two favorite non-touristy cities in Italy.
These are my short notes about my low-budget trip to southern Italy. I can’t wait to visit Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria.
Thank you guys and I'm glad you've enjoyed it!
Dec 14th, 2008, 07:51 AM
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Castellanese, I enjoyed the rest of the report. When I get to Sicily, I won't want to rent a car, so I like to read about getting around on public transportation. I'm also interested in Turin. Have you done a report on visiting Turin?
Dec 15th, 2008, 05:54 AM
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Thanks Susan, I used public transportation during the whole trip, so I think it is totally feasible. I only used a taxi on my departure day because I had to be early at Palermo's Airport, but I even used public transportation in order to get from Naples' Airport to the B&B on my arrival day. This is the link to my trip report to Turin & Lake Orta:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35079430
Thanks Fra_Diavolo, I'm pleased that you found it entertaining, detailed and readable.
Thanks Caroline, I loved Palermo and I hope that I can visit it again soon. I definitely want to go back in order to visit Syracuse & the Aeolian Islands.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35079430
Thanks Fra_Diavolo, I'm pleased that you found it entertaining, detailed and readable.
Thanks Caroline, I loved Palermo and I hope that I can visit it again soon. I definitely want to go back in order to visit Syracuse & the Aeolian Islands.
Dec 18th, 2008, 02:45 AM
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Actually, at first, I was going to do a whole trip focused on Sicily including Syracuse with Noto & Ragusa and the Aeolian Islands, but, since I also wanted to do Campania, I ended up not including them. I didn't include them not because I thought they were less interesting, but because of logistics. At first, I was going to base in Syracuse and day trip to Taormina, but I don't like a trip with a lot of day trips and the whole train ride from Salerno to Syracuse seemed endless. On the other hand, the Aeolian Islands seem to be a place where one must spend more than a few nights. That said, I have the perfect excuse to want to back to Sicily and I still haven't mentioned Segesta, Agrigento and Selinunte!
Looking back at my trip, the only thing I would've done differently was visit Procida as a day trip and spend more time in Sicily.
Looking back at my trip, the only thing I would've done differently was visit Procida as a day trip and spend more time in Sicily.
Dec 22nd, 2008, 03:49 AM
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In case it gives you any ideas, here's what I've done on each Sicily trip :-
1) 7 nights Taormina, 1 night Siracusa, 1 night Piazza Armerina, 1 night Agrigento, 2 nights Cefalu (was going to stay 4 but didn't like it), 2 nights back in Taormina.
2) (Honeymoon) 3 nights Taormina, 8 nights Panarea, 3 nights Taormina.
3) 4 nights Taormina, 2 nights Siracusa, 1 night near Ragusa, 2 nights near Agrigento, 5 nights Palermo.
I regretted not just visiting Ragusa en route to somewhere else.
As well as revisiting Taormina & Palermo, I'd like to see more of the other Aeolian islands plus Selinunte, Segesta & Marsala on any future trip(s).
1) 7 nights Taormina, 1 night Siracusa, 1 night Piazza Armerina, 1 night Agrigento, 2 nights Cefalu (was going to stay 4 but didn't like it), 2 nights back in Taormina.
2) (Honeymoon) 3 nights Taormina, 8 nights Panarea, 3 nights Taormina.
3) 4 nights Taormina, 2 nights Siracusa, 1 night near Ragusa, 2 nights near Agrigento, 5 nights Palermo.
I regretted not just visiting Ragusa en route to somewhere else.
As well as revisiting Taormina & Palermo, I'd like to see more of the other Aeolian islands plus Selinunte, Segesta & Marsala on any future trip(s).
Dec 22nd, 2008, 05:54 AM
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I really like Siracusa but have found one full day, to explore the archaeological park and the catacombs during the day and wander round Ortygia at night, enough to spend in there each time as part of a touring holiday. Of course it would be a lovely place to go back for longer, once I've seen all the other main sights on Sicily. Last time we did note how cheap property was, but didn't think a place requiring 3 flights was really a go-er as a holiday home 
We did like our hotel there (the Grand on Ortygia) a lot too, though, but if we'd spent an extra day we'd probably just have used their boat to go to the beach.
We do always like to spend some time just relaxing on holiday - all our main summer holidays include at least one period where we just sunbathe, swim, read, eat & drink, & I think Taormina is better than Siracusa for that, with its beautiful setting and lots of nice restaurants.
We did like our hotel there (the Grand on Ortygia) a lot too, though, but if we'd spent an extra day we'd probably just have used their boat to go to the beach.We do always like to spend some time just relaxing on holiday - all our main summer holidays include at least one period where we just sunbathe, swim, read, eat & drink, & I think Taormina is better than Siracusa for that, with its beautiful setting and lots of nice restaurants.
Dec 22nd, 2008, 06:12 AM
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Castellanese: Please add me to the chorus of posters who have complimented you on this excellent report.
It is interesting to learn the experience of one (enthusiastic walker) who does not follow the well-trod path!
I also thought Ravello, while beautiful, was less than lively-even in late April, most of the people we saw there were fellow tourists. And I did not realize, before you pointed it out, that the most striking viewpoints require payment of an entry fee.
I have enjoyed your Piedmont report and will be referencing it again before my own trip to Alba and Turin in early spring..
Where are you off to next?
Muchas gracias!!
It is interesting to learn the experience of one (enthusiastic walker) who does not follow the well-trod path!
I also thought Ravello, while beautiful, was less than lively-even in late April, most of the people we saw there were fellow tourists. And I did not realize, before you pointed it out, that the most striking viewpoints require payment of an entry fee.
I have enjoyed your Piedmont report and will be referencing it again before my own trip to Alba and Turin in early spring..
Where are you off to next?
Muchas gracias!!
Dec 22nd, 2008, 01:22 PM
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Thanks Caroline for sharing your itineraries! The 8 nights on Panarea (being in love in the middle of the Mediterranean) must've been like paradise on earth! In my imagination, the Aeolian Islands are like the most exotic islands in the mediterranean. Of course, I've not been to the Greek Islands or the Balearic Islands yet, but somehow I think of them as an off-the-beaten-path destination which not everybody knows of.
Gracias Ekscrunchy! I'm glad that you liked it. I too enjoyed your Campania trip report earlier this year. In fact, when I was writing mine, I remembered yours, and I even thought: "Well, compared to Ekscrunchy's trip report, mine would be like the brochure of it". As for Piedmont, Turin and Lake Orta were sublime for me. I wanted to visit Le Langhe or Asti, but I didn't have time. I don't know where I'll go next, but I hope Italy is involved along with another destination, because I just can't get enough of it!
Gracias Ekscrunchy! I'm glad that you liked it. I too enjoyed your Campania trip report earlier this year. In fact, when I was writing mine, I remembered yours, and I even thought: "Well, compared to Ekscrunchy's trip report, mine would be like the brochure of it". As for Piedmont, Turin and Lake Orta were sublime for me. I wanted to visit Le Langhe or Asti, but I didn't have time. I don't know where I'll go next, but I hope Italy is involved along with another destination, because I just can't get enough of it!
Dec 23rd, 2008, 02:11 AM
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Panarea was idyllic, Castallanese, but I get the impression that 8 days doing nothing isn't your style ! It was really quiet - early in the season, late April/early May, and after the first few days we actually had the hotel (Raya) to ourselves. There was no pressure at all from the staff, we just wandered down for pre-dinner Negronis when we felt like it, sipped them while watching it get dark and the Stromboli light show begin, then had 3 courses of fantastic fresh seafood every night (with the menu of 3 or 4 choices per course, different every day, recited by the waiter). We also enjoyed the 2 breakfasts every day, which were there whenever we felt like it
In between breakfast & dinner we just lazed around, and sometimes walked to one of the beaches (I swam, DH thought it was too cold). Never hired a boat, never visited another island. Just looked at the scenery, really.
Sigh...
I'd be afraid to go back, though, as I'm sure it wouldn't be the same. Friernds stayed at the same hotel in summer a couple of years later and it didn't sound as nice. I believe Panarea is quite a trendy place in high season.
In between breakfast & dinner we just lazed around, and sometimes walked to one of the beaches (I swam, DH thought it was too cold). Never hired a boat, never visited another island. Just looked at the scenery, really.
Sigh...
I'd be afraid to go back, though, as I'm sure it wouldn't be the same. Friernds stayed at the same hotel in summer a couple of years later and it didn't sound as nice. I believe Panarea is quite a trendy place in high season.
Dec 24th, 2008, 05:27 AM
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Speaking of Ortygia, and other parts of the island, here is an article from the new Conde Nast Traveller magazine, slanted toward those with generous budgets:
http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/500171
http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/500171
