caseyhen

We're in the early planning stages for our 2-week trip to Ireland from August 18 - September 1. When we visited Paris and Italy two summers ago, the Fodor's forums were indispensable, and judging from the posts in the Ireland section I've read here, I know that those who post here will have equally as sage advice for us this time around.

We fly into and out of Shannon and aren't particularly interested in Dublin or environs. Here's what we'd like to get to, but not necessarily in this order. Our dilemma at this point is how best to cover this large circle without doing too much unnecessary doubling back -

Ennis/The Burren/Doolin and Lisdoonvarna/Cliffs of Moher/LoopHead

Dingle Peninsula - Tralee, Camp, Dingle

Ring of Kerry, but not Killarney according to many - Kenmare and "the Ring"

Cork, primarily Kinsale and Cobh

Maybe Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny - this will depend on how much time we have left and whether we can make it make sense in our driving route

In the other direction

Galway/Aran Islands/Westport-Connemara loop drive/

Essential visit to Sligo, Tubbercurry, Grange area - my husband's parents were from there and came to NY in the 30's, lots of cousins, etc., to be visited. Would like to include trips to Belleek, Donegal, and Derry as able.

So...I'd like to stay in central locations at least 2 nights at a time. We'll be renting a car - my husband thinks that it would be a good idea for us to take a bus from Shannon to Galway, do what we can there by public transportation (boat to Aran Islands, traveling around Galway) then rent a car when we're ready to leave. I'm guessing that renting at Shannon for the 2 weeks will probably be about the same amount of money as rates are better by the week. We'll see what our research tells us, but it's all dependent on the itinerary we can settle upon.

Specific questions:

*It seems like we would either begin or end with the Ennis/Burren/Doolin/LoopHead portion of the trip. Not sure if we should head north first or south.

*I'm thinking that we could begin with Ennis, etc., head to Sligo and the North, then spend one long driving day traveling to Kilkenny/Cashel region and work our way via Cork region back up to Kerry and Dingle, ending back at Shannon. Is two weeks a reasonable amount of time in which to do this? Any better route ideas that would make more sense?

Sorry this is so long - Thanks in advance, and thanks to everyone who's posted for all the great guidance I've gotten so far.

Casey

caseyhen

I'm reposting this morning since there have been no responses yet. Maybe my questions were too broad, so I'm going to try to narrow things down.

Specifically, does anyone have advice for a route that lets us see much of Western and Southern Ireland, excluding Dublin and surroundings, arriving and departing from Shannon? (See above post for details). We're not down to specific B&B's yet, just trying to set the broad itinerary before honing in on the details.

Thanks!

beach_dweller

caseyhen,

I think your basic plan is great. But I suggest starting in the north and ending in the south (Kilkenny/Cahir/Rock of Cashel).

If you have a fairly early arrival, you can make it from SNN to Sligo in about 4 hours (maybe a little longer as it will be the high season). Then you can drive down to Galway (although I would stay in County Mayo--the beautiful town of Westport--or Connemara, perhaps Clifden, rather than Galway City; but that's just my personal preference for smaller places, lots of folks love Galway City). Then continue your counterclockwise journey as indicated, ending up in either Cork or near the Rock of Cashel for an easy drive back to SNN. Or make it really easy and stay in Bunratty just below the airport for your last night--it's a 10 minute drive to the airport.

By my count you have 14 nights. Using your home base idea, you could spend 3 nights in Sligo (with day trips into Donegal, and cousins to visit). Then 2 in the West, as per above. Then perhaps 2 nights in County Clare to take in the Cliffs, the Burren, the Aran Isles. Then 2 in Dingle Town. With the last 5 days, I'd choose 2 nights each in any two of Kenmare, Cork/Cobh, or Kilkenny, and the last night in Bunratty.

wojazz3

My first impression is that you are looking at a lot of driving. Personally, I would not make a trip to Sligo from SNN on the first day. That is a lot of driving to do with jet lag. I would stay much closer.

Other than the first day, I think beachdweller has given you a doable itinerary, but I think making it to Kilkenny is too much. Personally, I like slower, but I have to admit, I've taken some hectic trips too.

Bill

caseyhen

Thanks beach_dweller and wojazz3 for all the great information. the projections for number of nights in each place will be a great guideline. My first reaction was also that driving 4 hours to Sligo on jet-lag-day is probably not a good idea for us, based on the fact that this is my first time driving in the UK and on my memories of serious jetlag upon arriving in Paris. I remember very little of the first day other than being dog-tired and wanting desperately to go to bed.

So...I'm thinking maybe a night in Ennis, with some driving around the region but nothing pressing, then getting up the next morning to head to Sligo. This is still somewhat fuzzy for me, but my thought is that we could do the Cliffs and some other County Clare things as we feel energized and motivated, knowing that we'll hit the region again on the way back down after the North, and that time around we could stay in Doolin.

The other option would be to drive to Galway, see it and spend the night there before heading to Sligo. Maybe that would be wiser as there'd be more to do right in the city itself and a second stay there wouldn't necessarily be redundant.

Can't wait to hear what others think.

Also, I've been reading 12perfectdays'(not sure if I have that right)travellogue - wow, I feel like I was there! Thanks for all your time and the gorgeous photos...

wojazz3

Hi Casey:

If you are an insomniac, I may have a cure. Here are my three travelogues from Ireland:

http://www.geocities.com/obeirne_ireland_2005_1/

http://www.geocities.com/obeirne_ireland_2003/

http://www.geocities.com/obeirne_ireland_2002/index.htm

Here are a couple of more thoughts. Perhaps spend your 1st night around Galway, perhaps somewhere like Oranmore. I too prefer Westport to Galway, but if you want to visit the Arans, you may be better served staying near Galway. That said, I don't consider the Aran's essential to a successful Irish visit. At that time of year, Inishmore will be packed with tourism if you take the standard modes of transportation. You might consider flying from the airport at Inverin which isn't much more expensive, it's A LOT quicker and there are more arrival and departire options. Personally, I would suggest one of the other two islands which are far less traveled. The Arans will fill a full day though and you might want to consider something else. You could certainly leave from Doolin Pier if the winds permit. If you decide on that route, consider staying at the Atlantic View in Doolin. Most of the rooms look out on the Cliffs (one looks out on both the cliffs and the Arans) and it is owned by the people who own the major ferry service out of Doolin. The other popular place to stay in Doolin is the Seaview which sits on the hill and is in walking distance of Gus O'Connors. Don't just go to Oconnor's though. There are two other fine pubs inthe village.

I would consider, just a bit farther north, something near Galway for your 1st night. There are a couple of nice B&Bs that look out over Galway Bay in Oranmore. From there, yoou could have a beautiful ride through Connemara to Westport for two nights, then Sligo and then head back south. You could certainly reverse the order and do Sligo first though I managed to spend a full day getting from Claregalway to Westport. OK, I stopped a lot and took the beautiful Doo Lough Pass road. Doing Sligo 1st would make for a shorter drive back to Clare to continue the loop, but the N17 moves pretty well by Irish standards.

From there. again you could use beachdwellers plan. Personally, I would leave out Kinsale and add days on the west coast. Kinsale will be mobbed at that time of year and it is a lovely coastal town, but Ireland is full of lovely coastal towns. Cobh will be equally crazy.

Bill

StLSusan

The amount of time seems good to me...you will be a convert (Irish) by the time you leave.(g)
One mention...the most fun of all, for sure, are the side roads. Yes you can "make good time" on some superhiways but think of all you will be missing. My druthers always are to avoid the big road all possible.
That means sometimes 100 miles in a day is a stretch! Not like in US where avg. of 70 gets you a long way in a few hours.

beach_dweller

Caseyhen,

you are probably best following Bill's advice about SNN to Sligo being too much for you first day, given this is your first time driving on the correct side of the road

Counterpoint is: I was gently and not-so-gently advised not to try to drive too far on the first day, but we made it from SNN to Donegal Town (nearly an hour past Sligo) with a lunch break and a bit of sight-seeing. It was a fine drive, mostly motorway, overall an easy 5-6 hours.

caseyhen

ttt

wojazz3

Hi Casey:

Beachdweller provides excellent info here and yes, it's possible to make long drives on the first day. I actually made it from London to York once but it was painful. Unless there have been some massive improvements since May, I'm pretty sure the only motorway type road that you experience between Shannon (N18/16/17) and Sligo is a short distance between Shannon and Ennis and just before you reach Sligo. A bypass is being built at Sligo which may or may not be complete by now. Michelin shows only .3 mile on Motorway, but it's a bit more than that I believe.

Bill

beach_dweller

Trust Bill on the motorway info between SNN and Sligo.

I may be mangling the terminology. To me, in Ireland, any road I can go more than 35 MPH on and actually pass other vehicles safely is a motorway!

wojazz3

Agree with that. It's nice to find a road that you can bump it up to 50ish. It took me a while to figure the speed limit philosophy in Ireland and the UK. I've found roads that have speed limits of 60 when a sane person wouldn't want to drive faster than 30. In the States, we look at the limit as something you SHOULD drive and in fact, virtually a requirement. Anyone driving 38 in a 40 should get out of the way. On the other side of the pond, it seems like the speed limit on some of the smaller roads is a bit of a challenge. "OK, lets see if you can make it to 60 on this road" It may very well be that there is a spot somewhere on the 40 miles that this road extends that it's possible to get the speed up to 60, so that's the speed limit. I love driving over there.

Bill