TravelTrio

My kids, who are both excellent independent travelers (England, France, China, Japan, etc.), and I will be in Italy from June 3 through 16, 2006. From my preliminary research and because my 12-year-old son is absolutely obsessed with Roman history and, really, history in general, we are planning to fly into/out of Rome (that can't change -- FF tix). Here are some of my questions:

1. It looks like we could spend 4 or 5 days, easily, in Rome and not run out of fabulous things to see and do. We are most interested in historical sights, ruins, etc. than religious ones, except to the extent they have some particular and unique historical significance. Because they're kids, we tend to appreciate things we can walk through, climb on, and actively see, as opposed to too many museums. We will, however, hit top museums for a couple of hours. What would you all suggest as a good 4 or 5 days worth of the best and most varied sights in/near Rome.

2. Where to stay in Rome? Convenience to public transportation is key for us. My son has mastered metro, tube etc. in many cities, including Tokyo (most confusing I've seen) and we prefer trains. Safety is issue, too, of course. Any accommodations with particular historical significance or otherwise unique would warrant busting the budget, but we'd like to remain in moderate to high (not luxury) range otherwise.

3. Assuming a train from Rome to Naples, then it looks like Sorrento might be a good spot from which to hit Pompei, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, Amalfi boat cruise, Capri, Naples sights, etc. Although Positano looks lovely, I'm gathering it would add much time to all sightseeing -- correct me if I'm wrong here. Again, suggestions on best sights would be appreciated.

4. Hotel in Sorrento? We'd definitely want to be convenient to public transportation again. Please, please tell me we won't need a car. I think a pool would also be key for us, to please my daughter mostly. Is it possible to get a hotel with a pool overlooking the ocean for less than $250-300 a night or am I just kidding myself?

5. Would a couple of days in Sardinia be worthwhile? The only guidebook I've seen doesn't go much into the historical sights and, given that we won't pay for an ultra-luxury hotel and don't have our own yacht, I'm wondering if we'd be able to capture the experience. Alternatively, are there any short, like one or two night cruises around those Islands that have fairly nice accommodations?

6. We're passing on Florence and Venice on this trip because we're assuming we'll return to Italy and I thought those sights would appeal to the kids more when they're older. I welcome other opinions on this, as well as any thoughts about other truly special historical sights in Italy that I'm overlooking.

Thank you all, in advance, for your input on the above or any other matter that might help in my preliminary planning.

Henry

TravelTrio,
My trip report with my grandson may give you ideas for Rome http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34494897
See my trip report for Sorrento and Amalfi http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34416016

AP6380

I'd leave Sardinia out this trip, it is easily worth 13 days in itself. Here's my Sardinia trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34526714

And Rome:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34449517

eliztrav

In Rome, be sure to see Castel Sant'Angelo. Your son should really enjoy this one with his interests, and you can climb to the top for terrific views of Rome and of the Vatican.

Nikki

For the Roman history-obsessed son, I recommend the Domus Aurea, Nero's house, for which you need reservations. For me the cool part of this was envisioning that the Colosseum was built on the site of the lake that formerly sat in Nero's front yard, which was filled in when the Romans attempted to obliterate Nero's memory.

Nearby is the San Clemente church, which is built on top of two (three?) earlier churches and you can descend through the layers and go back in time.

Both these sites involve descending rather than climbing and give a fascinating glimpse into the changing cityscape of Rome.

jgg

Here is a link to our trip report last March. We did Rome, Florence and Venice with our kids age 9 and 12 at the time: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34599242.

In addition to the sites mentioned by others above, I would also include the Museo Criminologico, Via Galfoone 29. It is a museum that spans the history of crimes and punishment in Italy. Very interesting and a lot of fascinating objects. A smaller museum, we were the only ones there when we went.
I would also highly recommend going to the Catacombs, one or our personal highlights. In addition, when doing ancient Rome be sure and see the Mammertime Prison, a short visit right near the Forum.

There is definitely plenty to do in Rome for 4-5 days, we spent 6 nights there. Our last day, the night before I asked if everyone wanted to go to Ostia Antica or spend our last day in Rome. Everyone was in agreement that we spend it in Rome. We went to the Campo dei Fiori, Museo Criminologico, the Jewish Ghetto and Synagogue, Bocca De la Veritas (the Mouth of Truth) and just enjoyed another day wandering through Rome.

In Rome we stayed at the Albergo Cesari. Great central location, we had a nice sized quad room and good breakfast. We have booked again for our return trip this June.

I don't know much about Sardinia so can't comment on that, but I do think your kids are a good age to enjoy Venice. Our kids thoroughly enjoyed their stay there. It is very different from Rome due to the lack of cars and scooters, all the water, etc. I think it gives a nice balance.

Since your son in particular is so interested in history I would strongly suggest you get a tour guide for Ancient Rome (Forum, Colesseum, etc.) as well as the Vatican. We did tours with Context Rome and really enjoyed them.

P.S. Remember that many of the religious sites (churches) in Italy have a lot of historical signficance. Oh, be sure and go to Santa Maria Concezione, Via Veneto 27 (The capuchin monk church. The bones of some 4000 capuchin monks have been "artfully" arranged.)

TravelTrio

Thank you all for your replies!

Henry, we are also from Chicago. Enjoyed your reports, especially of Rome with your grandson.

AP6380, we are taking your advice and saving Sardinia for another time. Your Rome report was helpful. Thanks.

eliztrav and nikki, thanks for the suggestions on history sites. All are noted and we'll make it happen. If you think of any more, please pass them on.

jgg, your report was so helpful and inspiring. Thank you for your input and if you think of any additional suggestions, please pass them on.

We have booked flights into Rome on June 3 and out of Naples on June 15, so here is what I'm tentatively thinking:

June 3-8 Rome, at apartment or hotel in Piazza Navonna area

June 8-15 Sorrento [need hotel with pool!] from which we will take trips to Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum, Capri, Amalfi/Positano, etc. May stay at same place throughout or might split nights -- seeking input on that.

Questions:

1. Hotel in Sorrento with a pool?
2. Need overnight in Capri or daytrip?
3. Paestum -- private tour? How?

I appreciate your suggestions.

ira

Hi TT,

> Paestum -- private tour? How?

No need for a private tour of Paestum. It is small, all in the open and has a good museum and information.

You can combine it with your boat ride.

See the Amalfi Coast part of my trip report for details.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34451044

caroline_edinburgh

With only 13 days I'd have 6/7 in Rome and 6/7 in Sorrento. There's more than enough to do in Rome for a week, and you mention 6 places you want to daytrip to from Sorrento. Do you need any relaxation time in Sorrento too ? If so, add a couple of days to Sorrento and take them from Rome. Bear in mind it will almost certainly be hot and so quite tiring to walk around all day, every day.

In Rome you can walk to most places if you stay in the Centro Storico. Buses are the most useful form of transportation for anywhere further away, like the Vatican. They are very easy to work out, with good info at the bus stops. Buy day tickets from the newspaper kiosks and validate (stamp) them when you get on the first bus of the day. The underground rail system is not so useful as it is a problem tunnelling through the historic areas without disturbing anything.

Yes, Sorrento is the best place for connections around the Amalfi coast.

ms_go

We (also from Chicago) spent two weeks this past June in Naples/Capri/Positano with our 12-year-old daughter. You might find our trip report helpful for things of interest to the kids.

http://www.onelittleworld.com/campania_1.html

We also spent a week in Rome several years prior, when our daughter was eight - trip report for that is on the same site.

bill_boy

In Sorrento, we atayed at Hotel Ambasciatorri. Quiet, very clean, pool, private beach, daily hot breakfasts, 15-minute walk to downtown Sorrento, about Euro 245/night.

tcreath

Because your son is so interested in history, I would recommend the Scavi tour. If you are unaware of it, the tour takes you below St. Peters. You can see remnents of the previous basillica that St. Peters was built over, and you get to see what is believed to be the final resting place of St. Peter. My husband and I went to Rome with my two younger brothers (ages 18 and 21) and they loved the Scavi tour. However, reservations must be requested several months in advance. For more info, do a fodors search for "scavi tour" or see http://www.vatican.va/roman_curia/in...040112_en.html.

Ostia Antica is also very interesting. Its a ruined and excavated town, similar to Pompeii but much less crowded, and an easy 30 minutes from Rome by public transportation (pick up the train at the Piramide station in Rome). Ostia is quite large and there is a lot to see. We have been to both Pompeii and Ostia and both are fabulous and worth visiting.

There is also an interesting museum near the Piramide (if you go to the Piramide station, get out and check out the piramide...my brothers loved this) in the old city wall. It is privatly owned, I believe, and doesn't appear to be very well known (we were the only americans to sign the guest book in months). We just walked around the piramid and came to the entrance. There are many pictures and some historical information on Rome.

I would definitely stay in a central area in Rome, such as Piazza Navona, Campo di Fiori, or the area around the Pantheon or Spanish Steps. Rome's metro isn't the best; its extremely crowded (and both times we were there were off-peak months; I can imagine how it is in June!) and, due to constant archaeological digs in Rome, not very extensive. Staying in a more central area would allow you to walk to most places, perhaps with the exception of the Vatican.

Unfortunately I can't help you with the Sorrento portion of your trip, as we haven't yet visited.

Sounds like you have a terrific trip planned...you will have a great time!

Tracy

vetralla

Having been a prof. of history at Rome's int'l schools and taken hundreds of kids on field trips around Rome and other parts of Italy , I agree with Castle Sant'Angelo and Ostia Antica as great kids' history places for your son's age group. The Scavi tour under St. Peter's has an age limit (either 12 or 15 I dont remember) and is more religiously-oriented.
I think he'd love to visit some Etruscan sites as well...Tarquinia's painted tombs, the rock cliff tombs at Norchia and Grotta Porcina near Vetralla.
www.elegantetruria.com

TravelTrio

Thank you all so much for your input. Any suggestions on a hotel in Sorrento, with a great pool?

SusanMargaret

We stayed at Hotel Settimo Cielo in Sorrento in August (www.hotelsettimocielo.com) It is very reasonable (E140). Get a room with a terrace (we did) and the view is fabulous. The staff are great and there is a pool overlooking the water. It is about an 8 or 10 minute walk downhill to the centre of Sorrento. Breakfast in a pleasant dining room /terrace - again overlooking the water - was included. We thought the hotel and location excellent. In case you need a recommendation for Rome, we stayed at Hotel Teatro di Pompeo, which is 1 minute from Campo di Fiori, and including breakfast cost us E150. The staff are friendly and helpful and our room, though not large was great.

lpurvis

1. Every time we go to Rome one of our favorite stops is the cat sanctuary in the Torre Argentina ruins. From the street you peer down onto Roman ruins, and as your eyes become accustomed, you begin to see cats -- hundreds of them, mostly feral -- wandering among the ruins. There is a group that feeds, spays, and otherwise cares for them. It only takes a few minutes and is located very centrally near the Parthenon and Forum, but you will never see anything like it anywhere else. The Catacombs are also marvelous for kids, if a bit creepy.
Our last trip we stayed at the Santa Chiara, literally a stone's throw from the Parthenon. The best location of any hotel I've stayed in for sightseeing, and a bargain (Rome is expensive, a decent hotel will run you at least $300-$400 a night per room, and this is not for a five star.) Not fancy but spotless and very nice, and a great neighborhood - walk to the Forum and Coliseum, the Piazza Navona, everywhere except the Vatican.
I prefer Amalfi, Positano and Ravello to Sorrento, but all are breathtakingly beautiful. Once you get off the peninsula, it's not that much extra time, and these small towns have such a wonderful feel about them. We always stay at the Luna Convento hotel in Amalfi, which is a four star restored convent (I think from the 1200s) right on the bay of Naples with a pool and a lovely breakfast. Ask for a superior room with a view of the bay -- you are in heaven. Herculaneum and Pompeii are too much for one day, so choose one. Paestum is in another direction altogether, but worth a trip. Quite small, easily done in an afternoon. The signs for the buffalo mozzarella factory are well worth following. We thought not, but decided on a lark one day to go, and the fresh cheese is to die for.
And it's a good idea to pass on Sardinia. It's worth a trip by itself.
L