Seeking Diverse Experiences in Western France – Please Critique Itinerary!
Dec 22nd, 2010, 10:23 AM
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Again, thank you all for this incredible feedback!
Re: maps -
I’m currently planning to get the Michelin spiral-bound atlas. I also hope to rent a car with a decent GPS system, because I admit finding it difficult to drive and navigate at the same time. I’ve read some of the posts about bizarre GPS instructions for the areas I plan to visit, but am hoping that I can use the combination of the Michelin atlas and GPS to good effect. Does that make sense?
Re: megaliths -
I definitely hope to visit some, and not just in Carnac! The chance to see some around Ploumanach is another very good reason to spend the night there, rather than trying to move on to Morlaix.
Re: Mont St. Michel -
I’m so glad that most of you believe that a half-day will be enough! I am planning to spend the night there and am confident that I will love every overpriced minute. If I’m ready to move on after a half day, great — and I will continue to make plans assuming that I will be ready. But if I’m not ready, that’ll be fine, too.
FrenchMystiqueTours –
> you've done a great job researching and picking a really interesting and varied itinerary
Thanks so much! I love to research my journeys and I like to plan trips with a lot of variety. I realize that I still have a great deal to learn about the places I hope to visit on this trip, but I think I'm slowing getting there. And if the plan turns out well, it will be in large part because of all the information that you and others have provided on this board.
> maybe you could hold off on booking a room to allow yourself the flexibility of seeing what you want to see and not feeling rushed to reach a destination
I did that for my first two trips abroad, as well as for my last one, and I find it much more stressful to go without reservations! But having a reservation doesn’t mean that I need to rush to get there: Although I wouldn’t like to pay twice for a single night’s lodging, I realize that it is sometimes an option worth considering.
> you might consider is that perhaps in your Dordogne and Lot visit you pick a place to stay as a base for a few days and use it to make day trips
I do plan to spend at least a few nights in one location, most likely Domme or thereabouts. But I don’t plan to spend all my time in that area at one hotel – I’ve been persuaded by Stu’s arguments to stay in a few different locations if one is willing, as I am.
> On your days 11 and 12 I've got a few ideas.
Intriguing! I will definitely give your suggestions some thought. Thanks so much!
> You could have light until after 9:00 or 10:00 depending on what time in May you'll be here
Isn’t that wonderful? Sunsets should be between 9 and 9:30 almost everywhere I plan to visit, so if anyone wants to recommend particular places to catch them, feel free!
Underhill –
> As for the castle, the best thing about it is the formal gardens in the moat.
Are you referring to Angers?
StCirq –
> I wouldn't miss the tapestries in Angers. But I'd also make time to go see the Musée Jean Lurçat there to see HIS take on the tapestries. Both very impressive. His other museum is outside St-Céré in the Lot
Thanks for encouraging me to visit this museum – I admit that I had been debating whether to skip it.
> I would definitely not skip Beynac or La Roque-Gageac . . . you want to visit both Beynac and Castelnaud châteaux
If I add a day to this part of the country, which I’m currently inclined to do, then I could visit the Saturday market in Sarlat instead of the Sunday market in St. Cyprien. Would that free up enough time on Day 18 (Sunday) to see my whole wish list for the day, namely, to take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, visit the villages and chateau of Beynac and Castelnaud, visit Les Milandes including its falconry show (there should be shows at 3:00 and 4:30 while I’m there, and the castle is open afterwards), and La Roque Gageac?
> Le Village Troglodytique de la Madeleine is an easy skip.
Good to know!
> Far more interesting, if you have the time for it (unlikely) is the walk up into the hills over St. Léon-sur-Vézere to the "hidden" door where you can enter and walk into an abri much like the one at La Roque-St-Christophe, but smaller - and usually have the place all to yourself.
You’ve made tantalizing references to this secret door in so many posts, StCirq! By adding a day, I might actually have time – but the how and where (specifically) remain obscure to me.
> I also agree you could skip Fougères, though I do like that town (as well as Vitré).
I had a difficult time choosing between Fougeres and Vitre, and finally chose Fougeres because it isn’t quite so far off my planned route. But I keep feeling drawn to Vitre, and it actually shouldn’t take me that much longer to reach. So if I do try to visit one of these places (and I’m still rethinking this part of my trip), does anyone want to recommend one over the other?
Stu –
> Mere Poulard is now firmly crossed off my list of dining options on Mont St. Michel!
Again, thank you all so much! You are helping me put together a really exciting itinerary!
Re: maps -
I’m currently planning to get the Michelin spiral-bound atlas. I also hope to rent a car with a decent GPS system, because I admit finding it difficult to drive and navigate at the same time. I’ve read some of the posts about bizarre GPS instructions for the areas I plan to visit, but am hoping that I can use the combination of the Michelin atlas and GPS to good effect. Does that make sense?
Re: megaliths -
I definitely hope to visit some, and not just in Carnac! The chance to see some around Ploumanach is another very good reason to spend the night there, rather than trying to move on to Morlaix.
Re: Mont St. Michel -
I’m so glad that most of you believe that a half-day will be enough! I am planning to spend the night there and am confident that I will love every overpriced minute. If I’m ready to move on after a half day, great — and I will continue to make plans assuming that I will be ready. But if I’m not ready, that’ll be fine, too.
FrenchMystiqueTours –
> you've done a great job researching and picking a really interesting and varied itinerary
Thanks so much! I love to research my journeys and I like to plan trips with a lot of variety. I realize that I still have a great deal to learn about the places I hope to visit on this trip, but I think I'm slowing getting there. And if the plan turns out well, it will be in large part because of all the information that you and others have provided on this board.
> maybe you could hold off on booking a room to allow yourself the flexibility of seeing what you want to see and not feeling rushed to reach a destination
I did that for my first two trips abroad, as well as for my last one, and I find it much more stressful to go without reservations! But having a reservation doesn’t mean that I need to rush to get there: Although I wouldn’t like to pay twice for a single night’s lodging, I realize that it is sometimes an option worth considering.
> you might consider is that perhaps in your Dordogne and Lot visit you pick a place to stay as a base for a few days and use it to make day trips
I do plan to spend at least a few nights in one location, most likely Domme or thereabouts. But I don’t plan to spend all my time in that area at one hotel – I’ve been persuaded by Stu’s arguments to stay in a few different locations if one is willing, as I am.
> On your days 11 and 12 I've got a few ideas.
Intriguing! I will definitely give your suggestions some thought. Thanks so much!
> You could have light until after 9:00 or 10:00 depending on what time in May you'll be here
Isn’t that wonderful? Sunsets should be between 9 and 9:30 almost everywhere I plan to visit, so if anyone wants to recommend particular places to catch them, feel free!
Underhill –
> As for the castle, the best thing about it is the formal gardens in the moat.
Are you referring to Angers?
StCirq –
> I wouldn't miss the tapestries in Angers. But I'd also make time to go see the Musée Jean Lurçat there to see HIS take on the tapestries. Both very impressive. His other museum is outside St-Céré in the Lot
Thanks for encouraging me to visit this museum – I admit that I had been debating whether to skip it.
> I would definitely not skip Beynac or La Roque-Gageac . . . you want to visit both Beynac and Castelnaud châteaux
If I add a day to this part of the country, which I’m currently inclined to do, then I could visit the Saturday market in Sarlat instead of the Sunday market in St. Cyprien. Would that free up enough time on Day 18 (Sunday) to see my whole wish list for the day, namely, to take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, visit the villages and chateau of Beynac and Castelnaud, visit Les Milandes including its falconry show (there should be shows at 3:00 and 4:30 while I’m there, and the castle is open afterwards), and La Roque Gageac?
> Le Village Troglodytique de la Madeleine is an easy skip.
Good to know!
> Far more interesting, if you have the time for it (unlikely) is the walk up into the hills over St. Léon-sur-Vézere to the "hidden" door where you can enter and walk into an abri much like the one at La Roque-St-Christophe, but smaller - and usually have the place all to yourself.
You’ve made tantalizing references to this secret door in so many posts, StCirq! By adding a day, I might actually have time – but the how and where (specifically) remain obscure to me.
> I also agree you could skip Fougères, though I do like that town (as well as Vitré).
I had a difficult time choosing between Fougeres and Vitre, and finally chose Fougeres because it isn’t quite so far off my planned route. But I keep feeling drawn to Vitre, and it actually shouldn’t take me that much longer to reach. So if I do try to visit one of these places (and I’m still rethinking this part of my trip), does anyone want to recommend one over the other?
Stu –
> Mere Poulard is now firmly crossed off my list of dining options on Mont St. Michel!
Again, thank you all so much! You are helping me put together a really exciting itinerary!
Dec 22nd, 2010, 10:50 AM
#22
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<<But I don’t plan to spend all my time in that area at one hotel – I’ve been persuaded by Stu’s arguments to stay in a few different locations if one is willing, as I am.>>
I haven't gone back to re-read, but I really doubt Stu recommended you move around much in the Périgord. Everything's so close together there it would be monumentally wasteful to keep changing hotels. Just park yourself somewhere near Sarlat and plan your daily routes accordingly.
I don't think switching from the St-Cyprien to the Sarlat market makes that day any easier. Parking's harder in Sarlat, and they'll both be crowded.
I assume Underhill was talking about Fougères - it's a huge castle with a moat with gardens - Vitré is much more compact.
About the private door near St-Léon-sur-Vézère...just ask someone in town. From town, you'll need to cross the river on the little bridge, turn left, and hike along the river until you come to a path leading up into the hills. It's probably a half-hour walk. The door's on your right. Wear sturdy shoes. It might take too much time out of your already rather hectic schedule, though.
I haven't gone back to re-read, but I really doubt Stu recommended you move around much in the Périgord. Everything's so close together there it would be monumentally wasteful to keep changing hotels. Just park yourself somewhere near Sarlat and plan your daily routes accordingly.
I don't think switching from the St-Cyprien to the Sarlat market makes that day any easier. Parking's harder in Sarlat, and they'll both be crowded.
I assume Underhill was talking about Fougères - it's a huge castle with a moat with gardens - Vitré is much more compact.
About the private door near St-Léon-sur-Vézère...just ask someone in town. From town, you'll need to cross the river on the little bridge, turn left, and hike along the river until you come to a path leading up into the hills. It's probably a half-hour walk. The door's on your right. Wear sturdy shoes. It might take too much time out of your already rather hectic schedule, though.
Dec 22nd, 2010, 10:58 AM
#23
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I've got just a few more ideas for you. On day 13 you are reaching Vannes in the evening. I love Vannes and I'm sure you will too. The interesting part that is worth exploring is the old downtown and along the harbor. These areas aren't that big and can be explored on foot quite easily. Unless there are museums or other sites you plan on visiting there you might be able to see everything you need to see that evening. That would leave you free in the morning to start your journey and give ample time to the things you want to see along the way before reaching Fontevraud (which is lovely as well as very interesting).
Unless you are super fixed on the idea of going there I would trade Josselin for a visit to Rochefort-en-Terre. It has the official designations of a "small city of character", "one of the most beautiful villages in France" as well as being a 4 star "flowered village". It certainly deserves all of these designations and is often referred to as the most charming village in Brittany. I've been to Josselin and it is a lovely, wonderful town but even though Rochefort en Terre is smaller it is higher on the charm scale. It also has the advantage of being more on your direct route from Vannes to Angers whereas Josselin will take you further out from that route.
If you've got the time and interest I wrote a trip report about my vacation in Brittany this summer and there are hundreds of photos in it, including Fougères, Carnac (and Gulf of Morbihan vicinity), Josselin and Rochefort-en-Terre. Here is the link:
http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...ad=4366&page=1
I haven't been to Vitré so I can't compare to Fougères but I would make the drive from Dinan to Ploumanach a higher priority than I would a visit to Fougères/Vitré or a visit to Saint-Malo/Dinard/Cap Frehel. That northern part of Brittany is especially gorgeous and certainly the coastline there will rival or beat Cap Frehel in terms of beauty (well at least for me, maybe not for others).
Oh, great idea on just buying the whole Michelin Atlas of France. It may be a bit big and bulky to travel with but once you are here you'll be glad you have it.
Unless you are super fixed on the idea of going there I would trade Josselin for a visit to Rochefort-en-Terre. It has the official designations of a "small city of character", "one of the most beautiful villages in France" as well as being a 4 star "flowered village". It certainly deserves all of these designations and is often referred to as the most charming village in Brittany. I've been to Josselin and it is a lovely, wonderful town but even though Rochefort en Terre is smaller it is higher on the charm scale. It also has the advantage of being more on your direct route from Vannes to Angers whereas Josselin will take you further out from that route.
If you've got the time and interest I wrote a trip report about my vacation in Brittany this summer and there are hundreds of photos in it, including Fougères, Carnac (and Gulf of Morbihan vicinity), Josselin and Rochefort-en-Terre. Here is the link:
http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...ad=4366&page=1
I haven't been to Vitré so I can't compare to Fougères but I would make the drive from Dinan to Ploumanach a higher priority than I would a visit to Fougères/Vitré or a visit to Saint-Malo/Dinard/Cap Frehel. That northern part of Brittany is especially gorgeous and certainly the coastline there will rival or beat Cap Frehel in terms of beauty (well at least for me, maybe not for others).
Oh, great idea on just buying the whole Michelin Atlas of France. It may be a bit big and bulky to travel with but once you are here you'll be glad you have it.
Dec 22nd, 2010, 11:40 AM
#24
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Rochefort en Terre is an outstanding little town on a hill. It was FrenchMystiqueTours' recommendation that sent us there. Wow! It's geared to tourism, and they load on the charm--flowers, shops, a chateau, restaurants and bakeries, old stone buildings, an ancient church, a little park.... There are a lot of visitors at any given time but it's worth braving the crowd.
If you're visiting Dinan, the nearby village of Lehon is another small charmer, old stone buildings, tons of flowers, but without the shops and restaurants of Rochefort en Terre.
If you have to choose between Fougeres and Vitre, I would drop Vitre. It's smaller than Fougeres, and while interesting, it doesn't take long to visit. You can spend a day or two in Fougeres but if you don't have that much time, it's easy to hit the high spots.
If you're visiting Dinan, the nearby village of Lehon is another small charmer, old stone buildings, tons of flowers, but without the shops and restaurants of Rochefort en Terre.
If you have to choose between Fougeres and Vitre, I would drop Vitre. It's smaller than Fougeres, and while interesting, it doesn't take long to visit. You can spend a day or two in Fougeres but if you don't have that much time, it's easy to hit the high spots.
Dec 22nd, 2010, 02:47 PM
#26
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StCirq -
> I really doubt Stu recommended...
Oh, dear! I fear I have misrepresented Stu’s recommendation! In his Dordogne itinerary (which he kindly shared with me) and in some replies he’s written in response to other posters, I’ve understood him to recommend staying in/around the Sarlat area (including Domme, Beynac, and Roque-Gageac) to see most of the Dordogne, but for those who don’t mind changing hotels and who wish to see some of the more distant sites, such as Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour, Castelnau, Martel, and Carennac, I understood him to note some advantages to relocating. My apologies to Stu, to you, and to anyone who reads this post if I have misrepresented his recommendation!
> About the private door near St-Léon-sur-Vézère...
Thanks so much for the additional information! If I do add a day to my time in the Dordogne, I will definitely consider trying to find time to visit this place - it sounds special.
FrenchMystiqueTours –
> I would trade Josselin for a visit to Rochefort-en-Terre...
Thanks so much for mentioning this village – it sounds and looks wonderful! And as you note, it actually suits my itinerary better than Josselin. I also appreciate your estimate of the time it will take me to visit Vannes – it gives me hope that I can see what I would most like to see between Vannes and Fontevraud.
> I wrote a trip report...
Loved it! Wonderful descriptions, amazing pictures – quite an inspiration! I loved learning about and seeing Gavrinis and the other megaliths you visited on that vacation. I am even more motivated than before to be sure to visit several along my journey through Brittany. Thanks for sharing!
Coquelicot –
> If you're visiting Dinan, the nearby village of Lehon...
That’s another great looking little village, and so close to Dinan! Thanks for mentioning it, as well as for seconding FrenchMystiqueTours’s recommendation to visit Rochefort-en-Terre.
> If you have to choose between Fougeres and Vitre, I would drop Vitre.
Thanks for the advice and your rationale – very helpful!
I'm having a great time looking up the places you are all mentioning and honing my plans. What a great place Fodor's Forum is!
> I really doubt Stu recommended...
Oh, dear! I fear I have misrepresented Stu’s recommendation! In his Dordogne itinerary (which he kindly shared with me) and in some replies he’s written in response to other posters, I’ve understood him to recommend staying in/around the Sarlat area (including Domme, Beynac, and Roque-Gageac) to see most of the Dordogne, but for those who don’t mind changing hotels and who wish to see some of the more distant sites, such as Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour, Castelnau, Martel, and Carennac, I understood him to note some advantages to relocating. My apologies to Stu, to you, and to anyone who reads this post if I have misrepresented his recommendation!
> About the private door near St-Léon-sur-Vézère...
Thanks so much for the additional information! If I do add a day to my time in the Dordogne, I will definitely consider trying to find time to visit this place - it sounds special.
FrenchMystiqueTours –
> I would trade Josselin for a visit to Rochefort-en-Terre...
Thanks so much for mentioning this village – it sounds and looks wonderful! And as you note, it actually suits my itinerary better than Josselin. I also appreciate your estimate of the time it will take me to visit Vannes – it gives me hope that I can see what I would most like to see between Vannes and Fontevraud.
> I wrote a trip report...
Loved it! Wonderful descriptions, amazing pictures – quite an inspiration! I loved learning about and seeing Gavrinis and the other megaliths you visited on that vacation. I am even more motivated than before to be sure to visit several along my journey through Brittany. Thanks for sharing!
Coquelicot –
> If you're visiting Dinan, the nearby village of Lehon...
That’s another great looking little village, and so close to Dinan! Thanks for mentioning it, as well as for seconding FrenchMystiqueTours’s recommendation to visit Rochefort-en-Terre.
> If you have to choose between Fougeres and Vitre, I would drop Vitre.
Thanks for the advice and your rationale – very helpful!
I'm having a great time looking up the places you are all mentioning and honing my plans. What a great place Fodor's Forum is!
Dec 22nd, 2010, 03:24 PM
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>>Oh, dear! I fear I have misrepresented Stu’s recommendation<,
Nope - that's what I've recommended if you want to visit some/several sites east of the A20 - Martel, Rocamadour, Padirac, Carennac, Castelnau/Brentoux, Collonges la Rouge, Turenne, St Cere, etc. That's too many places to try to visit on 1 trip, and 2 trips would eat up a lot of travel time. Also, as you get close to Souillac, it is not scenic at all. So I've recommended that visitors stay overnight in the St Cere/Rocamadour area - especially if you don't mind changing hotels, and certainly if your next destination is Figeac.
Josselin vs Rochefort-en-Terre. We've visited both places on seperate visits to Brittany. We enjoyed each, but comparing the two is like apples & oranges - one is a cute village decked out with lots of flowers, & the other's main draw is the castle. So if you want to visit a castle, then hit Josselin. If not, then see Rochefort. However, if you need to save some time, remember that the tour at Josselin is guided (and probably in French), and will most likely consume 1 1/4 hrs to 1 3/4 hrs (some "wait for the next tour to start" time). I think you can visit Rochefort in 1 hr.
Stu Dudley
Nope - that's what I've recommended if you want to visit some/several sites east of the A20 - Martel, Rocamadour, Padirac, Carennac, Castelnau/Brentoux, Collonges la Rouge, Turenne, St Cere, etc. That's too many places to try to visit on 1 trip, and 2 trips would eat up a lot of travel time. Also, as you get close to Souillac, it is not scenic at all. So I've recommended that visitors stay overnight in the St Cere/Rocamadour area - especially if you don't mind changing hotels, and certainly if your next destination is Figeac.
Josselin vs Rochefort-en-Terre. We've visited both places on seperate visits to Brittany. We enjoyed each, but comparing the two is like apples & oranges - one is a cute village decked out with lots of flowers, & the other's main draw is the castle. So if you want to visit a castle, then hit Josselin. If not, then see Rochefort. However, if you need to save some time, remember that the tour at Josselin is guided (and probably in French), and will most likely consume 1 1/4 hrs to 1 3/4 hrs (some "wait for the next tour to start" time). I think you can visit Rochefort in 1 hr.
Stu Dudley
Dec 22nd, 2010, 03:47 PM
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PS
St Cyprien market vs Sarlat market.
IMO, markets in France often distract from your enjoyment of the town itself. Visitors have a tendency to keep their eyes on the vendors & their wares - and not on the architecture of the town. Sarlat is a beautiful town architecturally. We usually visit it in the very early morning, just before or after dinner, or on Sundays or Mondays, when there are fewer stores open so they don't have their umbrellas set up outside to hide all the architecture. St Cyprien does not have much to hide - it is not a particularly attractive village - especially compared to Sarlat (few villages in France are as attractive as Sarlat). Therefore, I would visit the market in St Cyprien (get there early - 8:30 June thru Sept) and visit Sarlat on Monday.
Wait!!!!! you didn't have Sarlat on your list of places you wanted to visit. I'll assume that's a careless mistake on your part.
Stu Dudley
St Cyprien market vs Sarlat market.
IMO, markets in France often distract from your enjoyment of the town itself. Visitors have a tendency to keep their eyes on the vendors & their wares - and not on the architecture of the town. Sarlat is a beautiful town architecturally. We usually visit it in the very early morning, just before or after dinner, or on Sundays or Mondays, when there are fewer stores open so they don't have their umbrellas set up outside to hide all the architecture. St Cyprien does not have much to hide - it is not a particularly attractive village - especially compared to Sarlat (few villages in France are as attractive as Sarlat). Therefore, I would visit the market in St Cyprien (get there early - 8:30 June thru Sept) and visit Sarlat on Monday.
Wait!!!!! you didn't have Sarlat on your list of places you wanted to visit. I'll assume that's a careless mistake on your part.
Stu Dudley
Dec 22nd, 2010, 05:02 PM
#31
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My view of the Sarlat market is the opposite. It adds color to the main square, but most of the town is not affected by it anyway.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7623164797649/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7623164797649/
Dec 23rd, 2010, 08:50 AM
#32
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Stu –
I’m so glad I didn’t misrepresent you! Thanks for assuring me I had understood your correctly.
And thanks for your helpful comments about the differences between Josselin and Rochefort-en-Terre.
> you didn't have Sarlat on your list of places you wanted to visit
Having been convinced to drop Bourges from my itinerary, I have an extra day to play with and am leaning toward adding it to my time in the Dordogne. That would mean that I arrive a day earlier (in the evening of day 16, a Friday). I’m thinking of spending that night in Sarlat so I can see the town in its evening splendor (you do paint a charming picture of it!) and visit its market the next morning. By adding a day to the Dordogne, I could also spread the things I hoped to see on days 18 and 19 over three days instead of two, and maybe add a stop at Eyrignac. I’m pretty sure that’s what I’m going to do, but am still weighing my options.
Michael –
Again, thanks for sharing your pictures! You have a wonderful eye.
I’m so glad I didn’t misrepresent you! Thanks for assuring me I had understood your correctly.
And thanks for your helpful comments about the differences between Josselin and Rochefort-en-Terre.
> you didn't have Sarlat on your list of places you wanted to visit
Having been convinced to drop Bourges from my itinerary, I have an extra day to play with and am leaning toward adding it to my time in the Dordogne. That would mean that I arrive a day earlier (in the evening of day 16, a Friday). I’m thinking of spending that night in Sarlat so I can see the town in its evening splendor (you do paint a charming picture of it!) and visit its market the next morning. By adding a day to the Dordogne, I could also spread the things I hoped to see on days 18 and 19 over three days instead of two, and maybe add a stop at Eyrignac. I’m pretty sure that’s what I’m going to do, but am still weighing my options.
Michael –
Again, thanks for sharing your pictures! You have a wonderful eye.
Dec 23rd, 2010, 09:20 AM
#33
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Bookmarking for StCirq's tip re: St-Léon-sur-Vézère.
kja: This looks like a great trip you're developing. Please do a TR when you get back -- which will be just before I leave to see some of the same.
kja: This looks like a great trip you're developing. Please do a TR when you get back -- which will be just before I leave to see some of the same.
Dec 23rd, 2010, 10:46 AM
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sap -
> This looks like a great trip you're developing
Thanks! I'm very excited about it. I learned a lot from the threads you started while planning your trip, which also sounds great.
hpluss1 -
> Mont St. Michel is amazing. It is a day trip from Rennes or Rouen (I can't remember), though. Why are you staying overnight there?
Because I hear that it is magical at night and because I'd prefer to keep the time that I share it with other tourists (it gets many day trippers) to a minimum.
BTW, I just realized that by adjusting my itinerary a bit, I can visit Mont St. Michel during a spring tide. How cool!
> This looks like a great trip you're developing
Thanks! I'm very excited about it. I learned a lot from the threads you started while planning your trip, which also sounds great.
hpluss1 -
> Mont St. Michel is amazing. It is a day trip from Rennes or Rouen (I can't remember), though. Why are you staying overnight there?
Because I hear that it is magical at night and because I'd prefer to keep the time that I share it with other tourists (it gets many day trippers) to a minimum.
BTW, I just realized that by adjusting my itinerary a bit, I can visit Mont St. Michel during a spring tide. How cool!
Mar 1st, 2011, 08:35 AM
#36
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Hello again! I’ve taken your much appreciated advice into consideration and am back with a revised plan. I should note two quirks based on some timing issues that are out of my control: (a) although I prefer open-jaw flights, I’ll be starting and ending in Paris and (b) I’m planning on visiting Mont St. Michel and St. Malo in what seems like the wrong order to maximize my experience of the spring tide at each.
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Mar 1st, 2011, 08:35 AM
#37
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Hello again! I’ve taken your much appreciated advice into consideration and am back with a revised plan. I should note two quirks based on some timing issues that are out of my control: (a) although I prefer open-jaw flights, I’ll be starting and ending in Paris and (b) I’m planning on visiting Mont St. Michel and St. Malo in what seems like the wrong order to maximize my experience of the spring tide at each.
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Mar 1st, 2011, 08:36 AM
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,116
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Received 0 Likes
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Hello again! I’ve taken your much appreciated advice into consideration and am back with a revised plan. I should note two quirks based on some timing issues that are out of my control: (a) although I prefer open-jaw flights, I’ll be starting and ending in Paris and (b) I’m planning on visiting Mont St. Michel and St. Malo in what seems like the wrong order to maximize my experience of the spring tide at each.
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Day 1 – overnight flight from the U.S. (east coast)
Day 2 – arrive in Paris mid-day
Days 3 – Paris
Day 4 – Pick up a rental car in either Paris or Vernon and then visit Giverny and the Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys; overnight in Rouen
Day 5 – Visit Rouen, then stop briefly at the Abbeye de Jumieges on my way to Honfleur
Day 6 – Visit Honfleur and Bayeux (primarily for the tapestry); reach St. Malo in time to walk the wall during the evening high tide
Day 7 – If I’m ready to leave St. Malo early enough, visit Dinan; make sure that I reach Mont St. Michel in plenty of time to watch the tide come in
Day 8 – When I’m finished visiting Mont St. Michel, head to Rennes (stopping briefly in Vitre if time permits). Overnight in Rennes
Day 9 – Head west, with stops in Cap Frehel, Paimpol, and Treguier before reaching Ploumanach, making sure I get there in plenty of time for a long walk along the coast before sunset.
Day 10 – Get up early for a long day: Visit St. Thegonnec, then drive to the area around Carnac. Visit the museum and see the alignments there (if open) or in Kerzerho if not. (Can any of you confirm that the Kerzerho alignments are still fully accessible at all times?) Then visit Locmariaquer. Stop briefly at the Ponte Arradon before reaching Vannes in the early evening.
Day 11 – Visit Vannes, then head to Angers (stopping in Rochefort-en-Terre if time permits). In Angers, visit the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean Lovcat, and cathedral. Head to Fontevraud for the night.
Day 12 – Visit the Abbey in Fontevraud, then the Chateau de Chenonceau, Langeais (if time permits), and the gardens (only) at Villandry. Move on to Poitiers for the night.
Day 13 – Visit Poitiers and St. Savin; reach Sarlat-en-Canada by early evening
Days 14-16 – Explore the prehistoric sites of the Vezere Valley, the towns and castels and gardens along the Dordogne, Sarlat’s market, take a gabarre ride along the Dordogne, etc., as time permits
Day 17 – Visit Martel and Carennac on my way to Rocamadour (where I will stay the night)
Day 18 – Gouffre de Padirac, Figeac, drive along Cele River, overnight in (the controversial) St. Cirq Lapopie
Day 19 – Pech Merle, St. Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Cordes sur Ciel, and Castelnau de Montmiral; reach Albi by early evening
Day 20 – Visit Albi, go on to Toulouse when ready and spend the night there
Day 21 – Spend the day in Toulouse; overnight train to Paris
Days 22 – 25 – Paris
Day 26 – afternoon flight home
I think it's an ambitious plan, but I hope it's doable! I welcome any and all thoughts and reactions. Thanks in advance!
Mar 1st, 2011, 10:06 AM
#39
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Skip Rennes. It's a nice town, but not that important touristically. It makes more sense to head west from the Mont St. Michel than to go south toward Rennes.
Carnac has enough alignments to satisfy anyone. I must admit that Kerzerho does not ring a bell.
I doubt that you will be able to see Fontevraud, Langeais, Chenonceau and the garden of Villandry in one day. In your mind these represent quick connections, but with a lunch stop, looking for parking, getting stuck in traffic, or slowing down through villages, etc. 2 stops at a major sight, maybe 3 stops is the maximum that will be doable.
Carnac has enough alignments to satisfy anyone. I must admit that Kerzerho does not ring a bell.
I doubt that you will be able to see Fontevraud, Langeais, Chenonceau and the garden of Villandry in one day. In your mind these represent quick connections, but with a lunch stop, looking for parking, getting stuck in traffic, or slowing down through villages, etc. 2 stops at a major sight, maybe 3 stops is the maximum that will be doable.
