"Secret" Jews of Belmonte
 

Just visited the "Secret" Jews of Belmonte, Portugal, on an Elderhostel trip. What a wonderful experience. Any questions?

Dave, please share. Where specifically is Belmonte, Portugal? What is the story behind the " Secret Jews of Belmonte"? Where else did you go in Portugal?

Hi, Dave, <BR>Dave, please describe your visit. How accessible were the folks, and how did you communicate? Last I heard they were the object of considerable attention from Israel, a little controversial? <BR>Maira, it's in central Portugal east of Coimbra. if you're interested in so-called "secret" Jews in Iberia (or in New Mexico, for that matter) there's an indespensible and drop-dead fascinating book by Trudi Alexey called "The Mezuzah in the Madonna's Foot." Highly recommended.

Maira: Briefly, there were Jews who practiced Judiasm in secret away from the Inquisition, in the mountains of Portugal, for 500 years. As there were no books or Rabbis, the tradition and prayers changed considerably, but the feelings were passed from generation to generation. A synagogue was built about five years ago. We went to a Shabbat service and kosher dinner with them, which was thrilling. If you want more, e-mail me at AOL. <BR> <BR>The Elderhostel program, "Jewish Heritage in Iberia", started in Lisbon, went to Tomar, Belmonte, and Castelo de Vide in Portugal, then went to Spain for 2 weeks. <BR> <BR>John: The people were very nice and appreciative of the visit. They spoke only a little English, but we had Portugese speakers with Elderhostel. <BR>They practice Orthodoxy, as there have been only two Orthodox rabbis from Isreal to visit (for a few months)and teach them.

David, what a fascinating trip. Did they speak Ladino, the language of Sephardic Jews?

I don't know. There was no mention of it, so I suspect not.

I almost did the biggest 'duh' by asking "why don't we know about this?", thereby pointing out the "secret" part of all this.... <BR> <BR>I am off to the bookstore after work for the book you mentioned. <BR> <BR>Thanks for sharing, Dave, this is fascinating! Dead serious questions: would it be okay for a group of Gentile women to visit? Can someone just 'drop in', or must there be arrangements made ahead through a tour company? How did you learn about them?

My sincere compliments to all the posters on this thread. It's dialogs like this one that makes the Fodor's Forum the best, most helpful travel website, especially the European section! <BR>My added compliments to Elvira for posing some great questions!

Elvira: <BR> <BR>The way we got to them was by Elderhostel arrangements. This was the 11th time they were visited by Elderhostel in the past few years. <BR> <BR>Were it not for the astonishing history, it would be like a small synagogue with the usual service which you can see in any small town in the US. They have services at certain times, but I am not sure when. I imagine anyone can go to see the synagogue or the service, but most likely arrangements should be made beforehand. <BR> <BR>For the record, the address is: Comunidade Judaica de Belmonte, Apartado 18, 6250-000 Belmonte, Portugal.

Read half the book last night, and it IS fascinating - I had seen (and have on tape) "Weapons of the Spirit" and plan a trip to that part of France at some point; I can loop it in with a trip to Belmonte now. <BR> <BR>Just when you think you know it all...

Hi Dave, <BR> Thanks for the info. My fiance and I are going to Portugal in July for our honeymoon. A Portuguese friend of ours said we should visit the Berias area which includes Belmonte. Did you get to visit other towns in the area? He mentioned Sortelha which is a fortified town. We are wondering about a place to stay for a couple of nights. Any ideas would be helpful. <BR>Thanks, <BR>Marilyn

Marilyn: <BR> <BR>We stayed at the Hotel Bel Sol in Belmonte, which was OK. <BR> <BR>Sortelha is near there, but we did not see it. There are many fortified towns in Portugal, all of which come with their own history. <BR> <BR>Sorry I can't help you more.

Belmonte is a small very picturesque town in the mountainous hinterland of Portugal's Beira province, it is famous for its very old Jewish community and traditions and, also very important, because it is the birthplace of Pedro Alvares Cabral, the discoverer of Brazil whose discovery was exactly now five hundred years ago (1500-2000). For lodging, I recommend one of the wonderful Pousadas or manor houses dotted around Portugal. Tomar, declared world heritage by UNESCO, about 100Km north of Lisbon, is an enchanting town with Portugal's oldest surviving synagogue (15th cent.) and an interesting Portuguese-Jewish Museum (Museu Luso-Hebraico Abraão Zacuto). Castelo de Vide is also a must for its intact beauty and Jewish heritage.

Dave, <BR>Was interested in your Elderhostel tour of Portugal & Spain. Two years ago, I went on one of their tours. One week in Estoril. Had an ocean view from the hotel, and it was convenient to Lisbon. Saw a lot of that whole area. It was wonderful, and the people were so nice. Spent 6 days in Madrid and 6 days in Barcelona and a night each in Toledo, Zaragoza and Merida. Have looked at the tour you went on and wondered what the topography was like. Thanks for sharing

We saw the ocean in Lisbon and Barcelona (one day each). Otherwise it was mostly mountains. As you mentioned, the people and countries were very nice.

Dave, and all others interested in this topic. In the Nov. 2000 issue of Hadassah magazine (ask a member) the overall theme is the uncrypting of crypto-Jews, and there is an article specifically about the community of Belmonte, mentioning the elderhostle visitors. The monthly column called The Jewish Traveler is about Portugal. A third article is a photo essay on the crypto-Jews of New Mexico. The whole issue is a must for anyone interested in this topic.

Really interesting.