OhmiGod, SU, that's awful! You know, that's why I say always always when you are in Rome and Florence you must have your pickpocketing radar on at all times. Did Seashell have a lot of money stolen? Credit cards? And was her passport in her purse as well? That is a rotten way to start out your vacation. Although I had my wallet stolen in Florence ten years ago, and the thief ran up my credit cards immediately, so I know what it's like.

Oh, I hope only cash went missing, not the cards or passport!

The cards and cash were in the same wallet but she picked out only the cash. It is amazing how she did all of this so fast, Seashell's purse was high across her chest as she boarded the train so she would have her hands free to lift the luggage. After this I convinced her to wear a security wallet, she had never been targeted before and this time she did lose 500 euro.

Some more:

We arrived in Rapallo and found a taxi to our hotel. What a lovely place! It reminded me
of the French Riviera. We checked into our hotel, the Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita and met the family owners, very nice people, very pleasant and accommodating during our whole trip. They went out of their way to serve nice breakfasts with eggs and in giving us various directions and advice. We were shown the annex, I had the room with the balcony and Seashell had the garden room, both on the same floor and very nice for the money. The next morning Seashell said, Oh I woke up to birds singing in the garden and I said Oh I woke up to delivery men at the grocery. But that only happened that first day, thankfully.

During this stay of almost two weeks in this area, we visited some interesting places. In Porto Fino, we dined at the restaurant named Puny’s because who could pass up a place with that name. Food was very good to excellent and excellent service. The only small downside was that the waiter whispered that the tip is not included when he delivered the check.

At Puny’s, we sat near some Spanish yachtsters who had one of the largest yachts in the harbour (!) and we joined their group (at their request). The strolling guitarist strolled by and one of the ladies of the group asked him for his guitar and she started playing the most beautiful music and sang the most beautiful songs. Even the paid musician sat with us to listen to her. It was just such a wonderful moment in time, here we were in Portofino, a place I have heard about all my life and never visited, having wonderful food and wine, sitting outdoors with the most friendly and joyous group of people and listening to this Spanish ángel canta and play the guitar. Heaven on Earth. It was sunny and warm with gentle breezes from the bay. If it wouldn’t have left a bruise I would have pinched myself.

We went by ferry to the abbey of San Fruttuoso (15th Century) and thought we were going to see the statue of Christ under the water, but they were charging 17 euro to see it and more euro to go into the abbey and it was hot that day, we were hungry so we got back on the ferry. I guess we should have paid for the experience in hindsight. I took a photo of the water and it did look like a statue underwater but not in the place where it really is.

We went to Cinque Terre and walked the trails. We were told by Christine at our hotel that there are often robbers on the trains and trails there and not to take more money than we needed and not to wear flashy jewelry and not to take the last train back. I was surprised at this, but she said she only knows because she has to help so many patrons cancel their credit cards, etc. Interesting.

We walked between Manarola and Riomaggiore on the Amore/Lover’s Lane trail. It is a nice strolling trail. We stopped at the best place for wine along the route, I think it is called Café Amore, we had wine, caffe and Nona’s torte, very good, sitting right on the edge of the trail with only an iron mesh below us.

In Riomaggiore we stopped and spent a long time on the cliffside bar named Bar & Vini.
It has the best views ever! We watched the sun set and just enjoyed a relaxing day in the life. The local wines were very good to excellent whites. Good thing I started sampling after the walk. I liked Forlini Cappellini Cinque Terre the best. I could have stayed here for days.

SeaUrchin -

I am very much enjoying your trip report. Please continue . . .

500 EURO!!! How terrible! That's a huge amount of money to lose, but at least she didn't lose her passport and credit cards also.

I love trains, but as your experience shows, just getting onto the train itself can be quite a feat. That train worker was quite a character huh - I probably would have thought he was messing up the board also :)

Seaurchin, I just caught up with your trip report, so I did have a couple of questions from your earlier entries:

1. You mentioned water in a gallon plastic bag for the plane - did you mean bottled water?

2. Do you remember the name of the gelateria on Via Cononari? I love that they use all natural ingredients - did you guys try any other flavors?

Thanks, I will have to wait until tommorow to add more! Glad you are enjoying it.

I pull out a gallon bag from my carryon that has my snacks and things already packed in it and then use it as sort of a pocket to keep all my everything together. I add the water bottle after security of course. I put it in the seat pocket and after the flight I zip it back up with what is left and put it back in the carryon.

I will have to look for the name of the gelateria, I know I kept a napkin! We tried the best natural vanilla and some other of the fruits. The counterman was so nice and patient with some loud tourists. We waited until they left and then he graciously gave us some samples.

Hi SeaUrchin, Italy is an adventure is it not? And Rome is more and more a workout. I am so enjoying your trip report!

A question; what does a Hindu vegetarian meal consist of?

SU, Yeahhhhhhhhhhhh I've been waiting to read your post about Italy. I am so enjoying it.

I checked out the pillow. It looks very comfy. I am a pillow freak. I carry my (cancun) pillow everywhere, always. I put on several layers of pillow cases and peel them off after each use. Works out perfect.

Keep them funny stuff coming.

Theresa in Detroit.

I found the name of the Gelateria. It is Gelateria del Teatro Ai Coronari at vua di S. Simone 70. Phone 0645474880. Enjoy!

The Hindu meal is vegetables, garbanza beans in a light curry sauce served over basmati rice, salad, naan and fruit. Lufthansa doesn't add meat and Swiss seems to, but I pushed it aside.

Mamaw, I always enjoy your reports too, in fact I have looked for Henry Cow and never found it.

The rest of the trip:

One evening at dusk on that Cinque Terre train, a crazed man entered and started screaming and leaping around the seats near us. There were a few more people, an African vendor and a British couple, in the car with us and we all sat in hushed silence waiting for something to happen. Well, not the African, he was chuckling and shaking his head. No one else moved. I said to Seashell of course he got into our car and she said of course. See how we are? So negative in our train dramas we probably attract the oddballs. He started taking off his clothes. OK lets get out of here. We went to another car and could see through the doors that he did take off his clothes, bundled them up and then got off the train at the next exit and ran down the street. Okey dokey.

Another day we took the train to La Spezia because of my happy memories there. Well, the city is much seedier now than when I was there over 25 years ago, we had lunch at Ristorante Trittico Pizzeria on via Cavallotti 62 which was very good and inexpensive in innovative décor, then we left the town.

In SML we enjoyed Emilios right in town on P. Martiri della Liberta. The best best best pasta!! Great service and excellent fish dishes in a cute setting on the bay.

Gennaros in the same area was good one night and then served a horrible frozen-like pizza the next night.

Ristorante da Michele on Amendola 17, was soo good and consistantly so. We ate there a few times. It has an upscale feeing about it with indoor and outdoor dining, but still affordable. Everything we had here was excellent. Try the pesto and the shellfish.

Ristorante a Lampara on Via Maraglilano 33 was another excellent restaurant. The soup was delicious, the pasta and fish dishes excellent too. Try the poached pear for dessert! OMG. Great family owned and run restaurant on a side street. Many locals enjoying the quality food.

We spent each evening, when we were back in town on time, in the park by the sea for the passiagiata. After a few days we started to recognize people and they in return acknowledged us. We met quite a few people and petted their dogs and talked with them as the sun set. After a while we were on a first name basis with people such as Nora the Dog and her owner Mario. It was funny but at exactly 6:45 they would all return to their homes and we sat on until the full sunset before we freshened up for dinner.

Such good restaurants there, we only had the one bad meal. Fresh fish was brought ashore every afternoon and the restaurateurs would be there to pick out their evening’s fare. We laughed at ourselves when we started going over to the dock when we saw the ship came in, Seashell said do you realize we are coming over here every day to look at dead fish. Yes, I guess so, funny.

My birthday lunch was at the Imperiale Palace Hotel, lovely grounds, food and service.

We met a sweet sincere lady who ran one of the stores in town and we had happy times talking about the area and how it “used to be” She is at Al Castello, a cute little souvenir shop. I could be friends with her in real life.

We went to a classical guitar concert at the Villa Durazzo which is right in town on a hill in its 17 century park grounds. The music was exquisite, so serene and professionally played. It was Goran Krivokapic from Belgrad playing and I loved his musical choices.

The next day we went to the park grounds and to celebrate being alive (we both had our birthdays on this trip), we posed in silent screen era poses by some of the statues, just to be silly. We stopped, though, when we saw what we thought was a werewolf sunning himself on a bench, his hair was perfect. I have to say it is a good thing we saw him in the daylight as we had walked these same grounds the night before, after midnight. Although, it was probably just a man with that condition, it is not something you see everyday in a wooded park!

The last day in SML we ordered a limo to take us over to Rapallo for the train back to Roma. The nicest man drove us, we laughed and talked the whole time, so long that he
took our luggage to the tracks and waited with us until the train came. I gave him my card and we have kept in touch. I have been playing a CD of this excellent singer we heard in his car, Biagio Antonacci, titled Vicky Love. If you like a good looking Italian singing love songs this is for you.

We got back to Roma Termini late and took a taxi over to the Hilton at the airport, we had a late snack and drinks, talking to some other tourists from Seattle. We all laughed and talked about our experiences, they were on their second honeymoon and their first trip to Europe. It was interesting to get their takes on Italy. We experience the good and the bad with open minds and humor after visiting all these years but they had different views as first time visitors..

We rearranged our luggage, called in an early wake up call and toddled over to the Swiss check in early the next morning.

On the plane I kept up another game with another passenger and the time flew. Seashell’s luggage didn’t arrive with her, it stayed in Zurich for a few days and then caught back up with her at her home. All in all another wonderful trip!

Here is the guitarist's website, if you love guitar you will love him:

http://www.gorankrivokapic.net/website.php

SeaUrchin,

I know we were friends in another life! My best friend and I did silly poses with the statues at the Palazzo in SML too! We missed Warewolf Man, though! What a great trip you had and I love the mini-adventures. Just remind me NOT to get on a train with you, bella!

You always have the most wonderful and interesting trip reports SeaUrchin! And you know how special SML is to me. And the man disrobing on the train..OMG...too funny!

SU-sounds like a great trip-funny, I've never had any train adventures like you've had-that was pretty hilarious about the man taking off his clothes and then getting off the train! Hope Seashell had a good time in spite of the awful beginning!

Seaurchin,

Thanks so much for looking for the gelateria address! I just told my DS your hilarious train story, and we couldn't stop laughing - although I'm sure it was funnier after said crazy man wasn't near you :)

Glad you enjoyed the report!

Dayle, I think the statues are just begging for someone to interact with them! Good for you, sometimes being silly is half the fun!

Seashell said she would just have to let it go if she was going to enjoy the rest of the trip, and, thankfully she was able to.

We saw the guy on the platform as we pulled up in the train, I could have bet right then that he would get into our car. He was hopping around and waving his arms wildly.
He was going beyond silly! Waay beyond.

SeaUrchin, glad you decided to write the report. Wow, you do have interesting times on trains! Sorry Seashell lost so much to the thief. I'll have to check out that gelato in February. Always nice to get new suggestions for eating and shopping! Sounds like a great trip.

SeaUrchin;

I was so bummed to read the last of your post, I just want it to go on and on. I live through your trips. And get cheecky all you want baby!

I rummaged through my Italy stuff and found the card from Henry Cow (not that's italian) I am drooling thinking about that meat sauce. And smiling thinking of the Waitress U, she said just call her hey U. Not on my soil sweetie.

Henry Cow
via flavia 59/61
fax 06484823

It's a small street that runs in the same direction as Via XX Settembre. It's right around the corner from that lovely Hotel we stayed at Empire Palace Hotel.

Have a great night. I have been staying at my Daughter's house. My Grandbaby has strep (?) and she's been so sick. I'd do anything to be sick and not her :(

Thanks for all the laughs.

Your friend in Detroit, Theresa

Oh SeaUrchin, how I do so love your trip report, just reread this one. Had already made note of most of your restaurants from your previous trip. We depart in 12 days.

Cheers, love. And thank you again for your always entertaining ways.