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nalemma May 22nd, 2015 05:52 AM

Scottish Highlands For Two Days
 
Hello,
We are visiting the Scottish Highlands for the first time with our three children: 10, 15, and 17. We will have two nights. We plan to take the sleeper train from London to Glasgow and from there launch into two nights in the Highlands. Does anyone have any suggestions? We were thinking of taking the Jacobite train north and then going to Isle of Skye and on to Inverness.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

PalenQ May 22nd, 2015 05:58 AM

that Jacobite special train runs over the West Highland railway - one of the most scenic in the U K and Europe - take it to Maillag - then you can take a ferry over to Skye - spend however many days there then drive or bus to northern Skye and take the bus or drive to Kyle of Lochlash - to catch another really scenic train to Inverness - you need no car for that portion.

For lots of info on Caledonian sleeper trains and trains in general in Britain check www.seat61.cm - great advice on discounted tickets; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com. Be sure to book those sleeper trains early to get the lowest rates - walk up fares much much higher.

RM67 May 22nd, 2015 06:08 AM

I would suggest getting a daytime train London to Glasgow (it only takes 4.5 hours or thereabouts from Euston). If you travel up in the morning and check into a hotel around lunchtime then you can have the afternoon and evening in the city, then travel on to the highlands the following day. Also, I'd try to spend more than 2 nights in the highlands if you possibly can as its a long way to go for such a short time.

janisj May 22nd, 2015 06:23 AM

The Jacobite will essentially take an entire day (if you go out and back), and to visit Skye and Inverness you'd want a car - so it seriously complicates things. You can't rent a car on Skye and drop it somewhere else. There are a couple of small local rental agents but they don't allow one way rentals so you could use one to explore Skye but you'd have to take public transport to go back to the mainland/Inverness or anywhere else.

2 days simply isn't enough time for the Jacobite, Skye, and anything else. In Fact 2 nights (which really only nets you 1.5 days) is barely enough for just Skye. To do the Jacobite, explore Skye, and tour around more of the Highlands you are really talking 4 or 5 days. You need to decide <i>which</i> you want • the Jacobite, or • touring the highlands for 2 days.

You say you have 2 nights -- where are you going after that? To Edinburgh? Back to Glasgow? To Edinburgh? Somewhere else?

We can give you better advice if we know the whole itinerary . . .

PalenQ May 22nd, 2015 09:07 AM

Of course in addition to the Jacobite steam train you also have regular trains that roll thru the same Harry Potter venues and scenery - peerhaps quicker than the special excursion train.

janisj May 22nd, 2015 09:10 AM

>> peerhaps quicker than the special excursion train.<<

no -- they take the same route and in about the same duration.

nalemma May 27th, 2015 09:00 AM

Thank your for all of the input. We are spending three nights in London, then overnight train to Fort William. We have several hours there for walking and then on to the Jacobite train to Mallaig. We thought we'd spend the night somewhere around there and then on to Inverness the next day for a night. We finish the trip with three nights in Edinburgh. We have a student interested in going to University there. I realize that this is really pushing a lot in to our time up north. If we have to spend the night somewhere near Mallaig do you have any recommendations and should we even try to get over to Skye?
Thank you for all of your help - we really appreciate it!

janisj May 27th, 2015 09:25 AM

>>We thought we'd spend the night somewhere around there <<

There really isn't much 'there' there. Mallaig is interesting for an hour or two but not for an overnight stay. Without a car Mallaig is really you only 'nearby' option -- this is very VERY rural territory. And taking the ferry across to Skye would only be to tick a box -- you wouldn't have time to see <i>any</i> of the island if you intend to go to Inverness.

But one option: It would be complicated -- but train to Mallaig, ferry to Skye, local buses back off the Isle to the Kyle of Lochalsh, train to Inverness. Staying in Kyleakin or Kyle of Lochalsh would be best for transport reasons

https://www.stagecoachbus.com/getTim...25%2f05%2f2015

Or - As much as I dislike Ft William itself (the area is great - the town not so much) -- consider taking the Jacobite out and back and spend that night in Ft William.

Then you'd end up in Inverness the next day -- which again is in a terrific area but the city itself is meh.

The Jacobite and no car does complicate your VERY short time in the area.

PalenQ May 27th, 2015 09:26 AM

But one option: It would be complicated -- but train to Mallaig, ferry to Skye, local buses back off the Isle to the Kyle of Lochalsh, train to Inverness.>

tis what I did and not complicated at all - know schedules for trains - ferries go frequently - buses link each port on Skye.

janisj May 27th, 2015 10:14 AM

Complicated for less than one day on Skye . . .

But PQ -- you need to explain where you are coming from - that for you the train/ferries/buses are just about the most important/enjoyable part of the travel experience. Not necessarily <i>being</i> anywhere, but the <i>transport</i>

>>buses link each port on Skye<<

In this case the only port that matters is Armadale since there is no time to get to the other end of the island.

historytraveler May 27th, 2015 11:02 AM

Be aware that the buses from Armadale to Kyle of Lochalsh where you'll catch the train to Inverness are not always timely. Don't expect the bus to be waiting for you as you depart from the ferry and don't expect the bus to depart on time either. They might or they might not. Life on the Isles is at a different pace and buses are primarily for locals, not tourists.

Honestly on Skye all you'll see is the drive along the Sleat Penisula and without being able to stop at the Clan Donald Centre, Armadale Castle/Gardens, take the scenic loop up through Tarskavaig, Tokavaig and Ord, or see Isle of Ornsay, it's hardly worth the time. I love the Isle of Skye, but you really won't see enough to make the trip worthwhile. I will say that the train from Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness is a very scenic route.

PalenQ May 27th, 2015 11:19 AM

>>buses link each port on Skye<<>

Oops I meant to the bridge for buses over to Kyle and train. I did it in reverse and yes I was on a whirlwind rail trip for research purposes without time to linger in a kind of place that is novel but to me would seem rather boring (not saying that it is - just what I thought - my time could be spent better elsewhere) - I had to change buses after coming over the bridge..So yes I took the Caledonian Sleeper train from London to Inverness - looked around that plain blah town and took the next train to Kyle - crossed and got the bus to Armadale, which seemed like a cute enough town and area and then hopped the boat to Maillag, which you IME have pegged correctly - a transit town at best and took the West Highlands train thru the GORGEOUS RANNOCH MOORS - to me the highlight of any British train trip I've taken - to Glasgow to hop the night train back to London.

I was younger than than now and would never do such a whirlwind trip but the connections were all very simple.

PalenQ May 27th, 2015 11:56 AM

If I redall correctly the bus from Armadale did not go right to the ferry port but I had to walk a fair distance - so that could be a problem for folks with large luggage.

historytraveler May 27th, 2015 01:14 PM

The buses arriving and departing form Armadale are very close to where one disembarks from the ferry. I do not know where they stop in Kyle of Lochalsh.

janisj May 27th, 2015 01:57 PM

PQ: you likely haven't been on Skye in a generation (or two) so your memory may be a bit foggy. The buses stop RIGHT there.

>>to Armadale, which seemed like a cute enough town <<

There is no 'Town' - it is barely a hamlet w/ a harbor/ferry slip.

BUT --- the OP has children including a 10yo. I would not try it.

nalemma May 27th, 2015 03:23 PM

You have all been most helpful. I have much to think about and I was wondering if any of you have hired a driver to take you up the coast to the Kyle of Lochalsh. Perhaps we could spend the night there.
Thank you all very much for helping me figure out this puzzle!

nalemma May 27th, 2015 03:24 PM

Here is another thought....Should we skip a night in Inverness and have another night in Skye?

janisj May 27th, 2015 04:13 PM

>>Should we skip a night in Inverness and have another night in Skye?<<

Not if you won't have a car IMO. A single backbacker can manage w/ local buses and hitchhiking but a family of 5 -- nope.

Skye is fabulous (much better than Inverness) . . . but not when you are stuck on foot in the sometimes (often) inclement weather. Now, you could rent a local car on Skye -- but you'd have to return it on the island and take the train to Edinburgh the next day -- a VERY long journey. Kyle of Lochalsh to Edinburgh takes two changes and 6.5 to 8 hours depending on which train you catch. From Mallaig it takes 6.5-7 hrs w/ one change. So basically ALL day lomg.

You have sort of painted yourselves into a corner w/ the Jacobite and not having a car. The train is fun -- but it will determine what else is possible.

To be practical and w/ just 2 days -- take the Jacobite out and back and stay both nights. The Jacobite returns to Ft William at 4PM. You can't "see/do" Scotland in one day so just use this time for your Jacobite excursion and then go enjoy Edinburgh.

You'll see plenty of gorgeous scenery out and back

PalenQ May 28th, 2015 04:17 AM

Base in Fort William - convenient for hopping on the train - yes and take the Jacobite train one way and a regular train back. No luggage to deal with on a day trip and if you have little time for Skye then it would not be worth unless you could spend a few days.

nalemma May 28th, 2015 06:32 AM

Thank you for all of your input. I have reconsidered (and spoken to the Harry Potter fan in our family) and I think we will cancel our Jacobite train ride. It looks like a good option to go to Oban and use that as a base for a couple of nights and explore the Isle of Iona.
You have all saved us a couple of frustrating days and we know that we just need to plan another longer trip to the Highlands!

janisj May 28th, 2015 07:09 AM

>> . . . we just need to plan another longer trip to the Highlands!<<

Great idea! :)

Plan on about 5 or 6 days for the Jacobite/Skye/the Inverness area

PalenQ May 28th, 2015 10:41 AM

janis - let me tap into your obvious expertise on what are IYO the highlights of Skye - you know I just went from the bridge to the port on a bus and what I saw was a fairly ordinary landscape - I assume there are rugged coastlines, cute villages, etc. Please, sincerely, clue me in!!!

Thanks.

nalemma May 28th, 2015 11:11 AM

I would love to tap in to your expertise about traveling from Fort William to Oban. I believe that we would need to hire a rather large vehicle to accomodate 5 people. Any suggestions in how to find a company?
Thank you!

janisj May 28th, 2015 05:18 PM

<B>PQ:</B> Sorry if this sounds snarky -- but if you only ever rode a bus and that only from Kyleakin to Armadale (which covers less than 1% of Skye) why do you post about how to visit Skye?

Google is your friend . . . https://www.google.com/search?q=isle...w&ved=0CDQQsAQ

<B>nalemma:</B> You don't need a particularly large vehicle - any people mover (mini van) or large-ish saloon (sedan) or estate (station wagon) would work as long as you aren't taking a boatload of luggage.

AFAIK there isn't anyplace in Ft William that allows one way rentals (One does allow pick up in Ft William and drop off in Inverness but that's it). Like I said - this is a very rural part of the country and there aren't a lot of city services like full service car rental.

You need to decide if you want to return the car to Ft William and then take a train to Edinburgh . . . or just stay in Ft William and take the train to Edinburgh.


BUT . . . have you already purchased the train tickets from London to Ft William? If not, book London to Glasgow instead (or if you <i>have</i> booked to Ft William -- just get off in Glasgow). There are tons of rental agencies in Glasgow and you could pick up a car here and drop it at Edinburgh no problem.

On arrival at central Glasgow, take the bus to GLA (the airport). Every international/national brand is represented there (Hertz, Avis, Budget and several British brands). Drive to Oban and stay your two nights (or you could go any number of other places). Then drive to EDI (the airport) and take a cab or the tram into the city.

PalenQ May 29th, 2015 04:06 AM

PQ: Sorry if this sounds snarky -- but if you only ever rode a bus and that only from Kyleakin to Armadale (which covers less than 1% of Skye) why do you post about how to visit Skye?>

for my information and why not ask Fodor's foremost Scottish/British expert (from a tourist's point of view) - just why do you think so highly of Skye - and that Google link I see a steam train - I did not know there were any railways on Skye - even a tourist one - now that may be a reason to go back formore time there. Is there really a steam train on Skye?

Cheers and go Warriors!

janisj May 29th, 2015 06:38 AM

oh for pete's sakes -- that was just a google link that shows SOME photos that google and some sites associate w/ Skye.

But you know VERY well that train pic is the Jacobite -- look at any google images links and you will find some shots that are not applicable. There are also photos of Eilean Donan and other things not not Skye but 99+% of them are ON Skye.

Since you aren't planning a trip to Skye . . . and IF you are curious what is there - do your own research.

PalenQ May 29th, 2015 09:49 AM

I just thought I'd like your take on Skye's highlights as you are so familiar with it - why do you push it so much - in my research it is nice but not spectacular - I'd spend more time on the Scottish mainland rather than Skye - anything you see on Skye you see on the mainland - coastlines, etc. I think the Scottish isles are quaint maybe but a bit too ballyhooed. Fine for folks who have done the Scottish Highlands, the Edinburgh area, the Borders Abbeys; Loch Ness and Loch Lomand and the awesome West Highlands Railway but on a first visit is it worth it to pop over to Skye and if so why.

just thought I'd like your input on if it is so exceptional as sincerely you know so much from a personal standpoint than does Google.

But sorry to bother you.

Cheers!

historytraveler May 29th, 2015 01:08 PM

Pal, it is irrational to make comments in regard to Skye such as "not spectacular" and " a bit too ballyhooed" if you have only spent the 40 minutes it takes to cross the Sleat Peninsula from Kyle of Lochalsh to Armadale. I alluded to the fact ( in an earlier post ) that one needs to get off the main road, the A851, to appreciate the sights and beauty of the Sleat Peninsula. As janisj has said, this is only a small portion of Isle of Skye. BTW, the Sleat Peninsula is known as the "Garden of Skye". As someone who has spent considerable time on Skye and has also visited the other places in Scotland you mentioned, I can easily say that Skye holds its own in regard to spectacular scenery.

PalenQ May 29th, 2015 01:50 PM

historytraveler - that's just what I wanted to know - someone I know knows what they are talking about - my comments were reflecting on my research - casual at best - I had never heard of those nice aspects and makes me want to go - you words weigh well on me and should on others - that Skye is not just a novel because it's one of the iconic Scottish islands but is exceptional if you have to chose between them.

Thanks for taking the time.

janisj May 29th, 2015 01:55 PM

You are just trying to be provocative/engage in debates and frankly I don't have any interest in playing your game. I'll spend my time responding to/helping folks who have legitimate questions.

historytraveler May 29th, 2015 02:20 PM

I agree. I'm done on this particular topic. I just couldn't let senseless comments pass without comment.

nalemma Jul 14th, 2015 05:42 PM

janise thank you for the info on car rentals in Fort Williams. I am indeed finding it difficult to rent a car there. I think we will follow your advice and rent a car in Glasgow. Thank you for the specific info on buses to the Glasgow airport to get a car. One last question that I have for you is does the Caledonian definitely stop in Glasgow? I have been searching for a list of the stops and am having a hard time finding one. Perhaps you could send me a link.
Thank you for all of your invaluable help! We have decided on two nights in Oban and taking a ferry over to the Isle of Mull to get a sense of the highlands.
Nalisa

janisj Jul 14th, 2015 06:10 PM

>>One last question that I have for you is does the Caledonian definitely stop in Glasgow? I have been searching for a list of the stops and am having a hard time finding one. Perhaps you could send me a link.<<

Yes it does. I've only taken it once but as I remember -- your are assigned carriage by destination and the train splits in the VERY early AM. Half going to Edinburgh and half going to Glasgow. . . . I'll look to see what I can find schedule-wise.

janisj Jul 14th, 2015 06:13 PM

OK found it . . . . from https://www.sleeper.scot

>>Caledonian Sleeper - Lowland Route

Travelling northbound the Caledonian Sleeper Lowland route sets off at 23.50 five nights a week and at 23.27 on Sundays. The train splits into two portions at Carstairs with arrivals to Glasgow Central at 07.20 and Edinburgh Waverley at 07.20.<<

nalemma Jul 14th, 2015 06:40 PM

Thank you for the link. It appears to me that we are on the highlands route and the train splits in three at Edinburgh with our leg ending in Fort William. It looks like it does make a stop in Glasgow. Do you see the same info janise?
Thank you so much. I will also call them in the morning to verify.

janisj Jul 14th, 2015 06:41 PM

one more thing -- just to confuse things more ;) . . . >>We have decided on two nights in Oban and taking a ferry over to the Isle of Mull to get a sense of the highlands.<<

Have you considered staying ON Mull either one or both nights? If you drive to/stay in Fionnphort you can take the foot ferry over to Iona plus explore a lot of Mull too.

nalemma Jul 14th, 2015 06:45 PM

I don't mind you throwing ideas out there - you've gotten me this far! We do have a guest house reserved for two nights in Oban and I was surprised at how quickly they book up. I suppose it is a rural area and it is high season for tourism. We planned to take the ferry over and spend the day in Mull. Our friend recommended renting a car to drive to Tobermory. Have you been there? How has driving in the UK been for you?
Thanks once again!


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