scotland trip
 

I'm in the midst of planning my and my husband's trip to Scotland for late March. We've made one trip to the UK so far-this last March-and fell in love. Also, I'm a huge medieval/middle ages history buff, which is what I based our trip to England and Wales on, and am attempting to do the same with Scotland. Obviously Mary Queen of Scots is a big contributor to our locales. Simply-we have 11.5 days when subtracting travel time. WE have booked the first 2 nights in Edin. planning on spending at least another day there prior to departing. I've picked places such as a drive to Alnwick, then over to the border abbeys and surrounding areas, wanting to go South to Threave, sweetheart abbey, and surrounding areas (not necessarily in any order), wanting to also go to Trossachs, Loch Awe, Eilean Donan, Grantown-on-Spey and the area to Aberdeen and the area south back to Edinburgh, also conisidering a night in castle stuart. I realize this is quite a question, but I'm getting a bit nervous trying to figure out where to book B&B's and which route to take (as in North from Edi after our 1st 2 nights or South etc etc). ANY input would be greatly appreciated! Keep in mind we're trying to get in as much of the 1200's-1650's as possible! Thanks!

I've been to Edinburgh three times in March (during Tattoo) and two of the three it was freezing and it was a blessing when it started snowing. We've always had a wonderful time! We are pretty brave and have "winged" it for our accommodations for most of the trips. We found it was a good idea to get your B/B or Farmhouse before 5 pm. (Though that time of year you shouldn't have any problems.) Then your new hostess can direct you to the best place to eat. :) As far as directions I always try to plan a "circular route" covering the places we want to see and bringing us back to our departure point. The nice thing is if weather is a problem you can reverse the circle. Personally I would prefer a clockwise approach starting out South.<BR>Eleven days is a good amount and I'm sure you will have a wonderful time. I do suggest getting a really good large scale "map book" of Scotland that shows lots of detail and is locally made. I've discovered lots of fantastic places off the beaten path with local maps.

Pam,<BR><BR>I'm confused. I thought the Edinburgh Tattoo was in August. Is there another one in March? If so, I assume it would be significantly less crowded?<BR><BR>I hope to go someday, but so far haven't been able to plan far enough in advance to assure tickets/lodging.<BR><BR>Dave

I think Pam is so wrong. Would not put too much faith in her suggestions if she thinks the Military Tattoo is in March.

Ok-i'm going to top this for myself b/c now I'm just confused! Although we were thinking of a clockwise trip starting south. Any more help?

Ani - all of the places you mention are great. But you only have 11+ days. The trip down through the Borders and to Alnwick would take a MINIMUM of 3+ days because there is so much you would want to see. Alnwick, Holy Island, St Abbs head, the fabulous border abbeys, Traquair house, neidpath castle etc, etc, etc.<BR><BR>So, as much as you want to visit Sweetheart Abbey - I would skip the SW. It is a lovely area but the 2 days you would need down there would not leave you enough time to get to the other places on your wish list.<BR><BR>You could squeeze Edinburgh, the Borders, the Trossachs, Speyside, and Aberdeenshire / the castle trail in to 11 days but going all the way to Dumfries/Galloway would make it tough.

and yes - the Tattoo is in August . . .

JAnis...Funny-thinking about the SW is actually what prompted me to post. I had originally counted it out of our travels but, after looking at my map (i've begun to circle the places, castles etc that we wish to visit) there were so many circles down there that i thought maybe we should make it more of a priority. We were actually only planning on having one night spent near the border abbeys-and only visiting Alnwick, jedburgh, dryburgh, melrose and traquair. I don't have a whole lot of places so far in the North-not going to the distilleries, not going to St. Abbs-just things we've already counted out. Anyway I will definately consider not doing the SW now as well. Any more advice is greatly appreciated!

...and don't forget Linlithgow Palace. <BR><BR>Between Glasgow and Edinburrgh it is well worth a visit. Information at:-<BR><BR>http://www.marie-stuart.co.uk/Castles/Linlithgow.htm

Oh yes, Rob-already have that on our list!! And that website I've spent a lot of time on already-thanks though! Any others you can think of?

Ani,<BR><BR>Craigmillar Castle, in suburban Edinburgh (south of Arthur's Seat), also has a connection to Mary, QofS. Craigmillar is often overlooked but quite impressive (on a par with Linlithgow).<BR><BR>Craigmillar can be reached by E'burgh city bus plus a 1/2mile walk.<BR><BR>You can find background info and photos at <BR>www.marie-stuart.co.uk/Castles/craigmillar.htm<BR>www.caledoniancastles.co.uk/castles/lothian/craigmillar.htm<BR><BR>Dave

Last summer I went on a 5 day budget oriented travel bus tour called MacBackPackers. The driver/tour guide was incredibaly well versed on history and stopped frequently at sites where he whent into incredible detail about history. All the accomodations are pre-arranged. Hostel type lodging. Lots of fun. They have a web site.

Ani<BR><BR>I'm particularly fond of the area surrounding Aberfoyle. Closeby is the Lake of Monteith (the only lake in Scotland!). There is a small island there called Inchmahome (accessible by ferry from port of Monteith) that has the ruins of the 13th century Inchmahome Priory where Mary lived for a short time when a child.

Ani - you really cannot visit Alnwick, Jedburgh (and Queen Mary's House), Dryburgh, Melrose and Traquair in 1+ days.<BR><BR>The trip down to and visit of Alnwick will take at least 1/2 a day. Just visiting Jedburgh Abbey and Mary's House will take maybe 3 hours (plus a 2 hour drive from Alnwick). There is no direct route from Alnwick to jedburgh (they look close on a map but it is almost 60 miles by road)<BR><BR>Overnight in/near Jedburgh and then Melrose, Dryburgh and Traquair would be another very full day. And you would have a three hour drive to Newton Stewart or Kircudbright.

rob's suggestion of the Lake of Mentieth is a MUST for mary followers, as is Loch Leven Castle - both are accessible by motor launch.

Ani... I'm the SW Scotland one woman tourist booster! I'm so glad to read afew messages above that the SW had the most marks on your map. Galloway is an amazing place. West of Sweetheart abbey is one of the finest places to visit and most don't. This is great for those of us who love it and visit, but too bad for those who go on the the path more often traveled. Castle Douglas, Dumfries, Kirkudbright (the finest town!), Logan Garden, Port Logan, Port Patrick, Gatehouse on Fleet, the Rhins, Wigtown, Creetown... I'd suggest you forget the Borders and head straight southwest! Trust your dots! Have a grand time!

All of Danna's points are good. Your only problem is only having 11 days total. You have some tough decisions. I love the SW and the Borders and especially the Trossachs. I will get slammed for this - but if you definitely want to see the SW and because of your interest in Mary, etc I recommend you forget about going north. The Highlands and Aberdeenshire are fabulous but you simply do not have enough time to see it all.<BR><BR>Concentrate on the Borders, SW, Trossachs, East Lothian (Lintithgow), and Edinburgh. You can then see enough Mary sites to fill your wildest dreams.<BR><BR>Remember - except on the few motorways you will average less than 40 miles mph so you cannot cover as much territory as you'd like.

Just to give you some perspective for the borders this was one day of our trip last year.<BR><BR>Night spent just outside Jedburgh<BR>Jedburgh Abbey<BR>Melrose Abbey<BR>Dryburgh Abbey via Scott's View<BR>Edinburgh<BR><BR>We had plenty of time in each plus pull over and take picture time and still got to Edinburgh with plenty of time to find the guest house (one of Rick Steve's recommended) and have dinner.

WOW! What fabulous and helpful responses! Thank you so much...I have much to consider...and will think about not doing the North and being able to see more of the SW. If I were to do this, how far North should we be able to travel in our time frame (ie what would be our cutting off point?-my husband, not being a history buff, is basically going where I lead, and of course wants to see Loch Ness!).Also, Inchmahome has been on my list from day one! <BR>

Ani...Husband I were in Scotland for 6 days in May,'01...we were not rushed, did St.Andrews, Perth, Callander (Trossachs), Glencoe, Ft.William, Loch Ness, Inverness (Culloden Battlefield, Cawdor Castle, Clava Cairns, Ft. George), Mallaig, Glenfinnan, Oban, then Glasgow...Wonderful BandB in Glencoe area (Ardno House, Mrs Pam Weir,([email protected]) awesome house on Loch Linnhe, wonderful hostess!...in Callander,Trossachs-Knowe Guesthouse,a 5 min.walk to town, and Rob Roy Museum, website is(www.smoothhound.co.uk/hotels/knowe.html)...hope this is of some help...Helen

Ani... may I suggest that this planning is for "A" visit, not "THE" visit. In which case you can utilize all of these wonderful tips. Thanks Janis for your approval of my list, I haven't seen all of them, but they and many more, are on my "must see" list of the Southwest of Scotland.

Ani, I think what you're trying to do can be done, but I think you are slightly scarping the surface by doing it. You could split your 9 days into 3 in teh Borders, 3 in Dumfries and Galloway (and I'm sorry, Danna, but I would be struggling to justify that in the context of what Ani is trying to do) and then three further north. You might be better to take two (or none) in D&G and then 4 or 6 further north.<BR><BR>A good way south out of Edinburgh would be to drive east from the city and follow the coast road past North Berwick to Tantallon; stay on the coast past Dunbar and when you get to Reston take a left and go down to St Abb’s, then follow the little road round to Eyemouth. From Eyemouth go inland to Manderston just outside Duns, then stay west to Mellerstain, then south to Floors at Kelso,then take your south diversion to Alnwick. I'd probably stay overnight tere somewhere then come north west again to Dryburgh Abbey, past Melrose to Abbotsford and then Traquhair, then come north past Peebles and Neidpath Castle. At this point make up your mind if you'r going south west. If you do, go and see the stuff on Danna's list. <BR>If we make the ssumption taht you do, and you've crammed my tour of the Borders into two days as well, that gives you five days to come north.<BR><BR>Head out of the south west and just before Stirling head north to Callendar, and on to Aberfoyle, taking in Inchmaholm. See the Rob Roy stuff at Balquhidder, then probably go due south past Doune and Dunbalne to Stirling.<BR><BR>Next day do Stirling and Linlithgow, and maybe also Loch Leven. Then go up through Perth, Dunkeld, Blair Atholl, and Kingussie to Inverness and Loch Ness (tho' why you would defeats me:)) On the way back take the east coast route, taking in Culloden,(OK, not mediaeval, but how can you go past it?) Brodie, Cawdor, Elgin, over to Deeside, and batter down Deeside, aiming to stay, perhaps in Stonehaven. Day 5 go due south (side shoot to Glamis) and take in Fife and the coastal villages.<BR><BR>One of the problems of what you're trying to do is that Scotland has an immense amount of history in the period you're talking about and almost all of it is in the lowlands; and outside Scotland most people will only know of the high points.<BR><BR>Flodden, for instance was probably far more important in Scots history than Bannockburn. More power to you for trying to do/see the less known stuff.<BR><BR>What are you reading?

Thanks again for the responses-Sheila I actually have 11.5 days (i've already subtracted travel time). I will definately take your route into consideration-very helpful!! I also asked my husband last night how attached he was to Loch Ness andhe said no prob if we skip it...so we probably will-its the northern most point so far besids Eilean Donan. Anyway thanks again!

Sheila-realized just after posting my last message that you had subtracted our Edinburgh days...oops!

Ani... listen to Sheila...(Sheila, you never have to apologize to me, I trust your insights! one of these days I'll venture north!) Ani, wherever you and your hubby are in Scotland, just the being there will be worth a trip. Although Galloway is fine!

Ani, I feel silly adding to such great thoughts as you have really obtained some gold here.<BR><BR>Mostly I wanted to add my vote to missing the north. Maybe you could go up to aberdeen but no more than that given all the other great things you want. One of my highlights in terms of royal building things was actually scone palace which wasn't on my list of things to see (there is another one nearby that is relevant to the current queen's mother but the name escapes me). <BR>As for lake mentieth, try and hit it about lunch time. It'll be a great picnic for you two on the island. It was a highlight for my wife and I. <BR><BR>I agree witht he circular driving idea and from lake mentieth you can see the things on the way up to the highlands that sheila and others said but add in queen elizabeth park forest if you can and go into the depth of it for some walks or do lunch there if you do lake mentieth before lunch. <BR><BR>Oh yeah, and we stayed at a haunted castle called Airth Castle which is sort of between edingurgh and Stirling for GBP 80 per couple (B & B). I think its near falkirk from memory. Don't worry too much about booking every B&B but if you do try and stay outside of the towns. When we were heading to a city (eg PErth or edinburgh) as a over night destination, we actually started to stop in at farmhouse B&B's along the way from about 4 or 5pm latest. We always found something before hitting town and always at good prices (mostly less than GBP 40 per couple). <BR><BR>For mary stuff I liked Stirling castle since they did a little play about her history there. A bit corny, but I liked it.

Ani: If you are going to be in the area of Elgin and the Culloden Battlefield, do yourself a favor and stop at Pluscarden Abbey. Started in 1230 by the Scottish King, Alexander II, it is an amazingly beautiful site and the interior is exquisite, serene beyond belief. It is the only medieval monastery in Britain still in use for the purpose for which it was created. Brothers tend the fields and you can see them in prayer through a glass wall. We were made aware of this very special place by good friends in Largs and stop by on every trip to Scotland (the Abbey is also at the top of the Whisky Trail which brings us to this area).

Joe! They are trying to convince Ani she doesn't have time to do everything and you go and throw in another suggestion for something hundreds of miles from where her interests are concentrated. There is nothing wrong with Pluscarden Abbey but there is no way they can add Elgin and Pluscarden to this trip. Read the thread before you add useless stuff!

Sheesh may be on the rude side - but I basically agree w/ him (her?)<BR><BR>Ani is refining her itinerary and limiting the areas they are visiting and then Joe muddies the water by plugging someplace all the way up near Elgin.

I just wanted to chime in by suggesting that in late March you might want to restrict yourselves somewhat to the eastern side of the country, and the southern edge of Scotland to boot, in order to avoid the worst of what will probably be a mixed bag (charitable) of weather. Spring may or may not yet be making itself felt, and spending a lot of time in the wetter west and/or colder north will be pressing your luck.<BR><BR>Fortunately there are plenty of places in the east and Borders that will more than fill your appetites for medieval sights and relics; not to mention Edinburgh itself. You've gotten a ton of good recommendations already. If you like historical fiction/romance books, you can stoke your anticipation with Dorothy Dunnet's Lymond Chronicles, set in Edinburgh in the 1500s, and of course you should read everything by Walter Scott (good luck) before you head out.<BR><BR>I'd also suggest that you include a bit more of Northumberland in your itinerary - Alnwick Castle is good, but so are Bamburgh Castle, the Holy Isle, and (not Northumberland but not that much farther) Durham Cathedral, which exerted so much influence over this part of Britain in the middle ages. Plus it's IMO the single greatest medieval structure in Britain.

Thanks again! Even for the Pluscarden Abbey suggestion! Funnily enough I just finished my first in the Lymond Chronicles...good stuff...also a huge fan of Margaret George. Mary Queen of Scotland and the Isles and also Henry VIII were fantastic books. Anyway-thanks again keep em coming!

Sheesh, Janis: Perhaps you need to reread my suggestion. I start with "if you are going to be in the area of...". Sheila's suggested itinerary clearly makes room for Culloden and Elgin in her fourth paragraph. Given her interest in places medieval, Pluscaden Abbey would be a worthwhile stop if, again, "IF" she is going to be in the area. Pluscarden Abbey is six miles from Elgin.

Joe,<BR><BR>I like to read these posts, but I quit responding - except when I see something that makes me cranky - because, although they can be very helpful, janis and sheila tend to be pretty dogmatic that the "only way" is "their way".<BR><BR>Ani said she was considering Grantown-on-Spey as a destination . . . about 40 minutes tops from Elgin. Hello, janis?? Do you know where Grantown-on-Spey is? It's "all the way up there near Elgin".<BR><BR>Ani, the drive from Elgin to Loch Awe COULD take you back to Inverness (Castle Stuart) and along the north shore of Loch Ness which is scenic, and past Ben Nevis . . . which puts you more or less en route to Loch Awe.<BR><BR>Im sure sheila and janis can rip this idea to shreds.

Sorry, Joe commiserator, I don't try to be dogmatic. I try to give options.<BR><BR>There are thousands of permutations. Where did I asy mine was best?

hey a joe commiserator in case you didn't notice about half way down the thread ani decided to drop loch ness and grantown on spey. janis and sheila always seem to give the most useful suggestions about scotland. what is dogmatic about that. huh? so what if you don't agree. i don't see you adding anything of value to the discussion.

UhOH! This is getting melee-ish! Just to clarify-I'm not entirely certain of anything just yet...most likely will not be going to Loch Ness...but damn I'd like to do the castle trail...anyway anything truly is helpful-there are a couple of things I've counted out already-and I'm sure I'll get poor reviews for doing so but they are just not priority for us so far (ie Abbs Head and Holy Isle)...we'll be back for those someday. Everyone really has been helpful!

Sorry. Had a fight with my dog and my wife pooped on the carpet yesterday. I guess I was looking for trouble.

Smoothound.co.uk is very helpful for finding all price ranges of accomodations in Scotland. I am planning a 2nd trip myself and will be posting a question. All you so helpful people please take a look!