Scotland travel
 

We are planning a trip to Scotland in August 2014. I would like feedback on what it would be like to drive to some specific areas if we staying in a lodge in Dunkeld, Perthshire along the River Tay for 4 to 7 days. I understand the lodge is 50 miles from Edinburgh. We want to visit Edinburgh, St. Andrews, Perth, Auchterarder and maybe Loch Lomond. What are the roads like and are the distances reasonable for these trips? Are there any other places you would recommend seeing that are within a reasonable distance from our base? Thanks for sharing your perspective.

Edinburgh is an easy run on good roads. Try to avoid crossing the Forth Road Bridge at rush hour.

St Andrews is slightly more complicated, but only because it's not a straight line. Maybe an hour and a quarter?

Perth is 20 minutes away, mostly on dual carriageways. Auchterarder, 15 minutes past Perth, the extra bit all on dual carriageways. (Why Auchterarder) (Actually, there are scenic routes as well. It depends what you are up for.)

Loch Lomond is long and thin, and it really depends where on Loch Lomond you mean, but you can do it in 2 hours.

There is a lot to see in the immediate vicinity. It very much depends on what you like? Walking? Fishing? Scenery? History? Castles? Give us more insight and I can give more feedback. I did a huge long thing for a lady staying about 6 miles away. Just let me know if you want me to post of email it.

Thank you. Sounds like all the places are reasonable by car. Auchterarder is a choice because my grandfather grew up on a farm there and we want to see the farm and area. (He is no longer alive.) We like scenery, history, castles, museums, the arts, walking and golf - a wide variety of interests. Hope to attend the Military Tatoo in Edinburgh. If you could post the information you referenced, that would be great!

I want to know more about your grandfather!. My dad grew up on a farm between Auchterarder and Blackford. He went to Auchterarder Secondary school. Did yours? Which farm? What surname?

As I re-read this, it was clearly intended for people who walked. But there's good stuff for non walkers too, and some of the walks are mere strolls.

Starting at Dunkeld, you will find nearby the Loch of the Lowes which is a wildlife reserve owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. It's one of the osprey sites and they should be there when you are going, so you should visit. Dunkeld itself is a very pretty town. the square is owned by the National Trust. There's a very good bookshop, a very good deli and a few good antique shops. If you're tempted to buy, they're all a bit on the pricey side, so you should not pay what they are asking. Talk them down a bit. The cathedral is worth a visit, and a the pub along from the Atholl Hotel (the taybank)used to be owned by Dougie McLean, a very famous (at least in Scotland) local folk singer. If you don't know his work go and get an album called "Indigenous" and listen before you go. It still does lots of folk stuff.

There are nice walks along the river from the town. On the west side of the A9, at Birnam, you can walk up Birnam Hill from behind the station (it's signposted, or "waymarked" as they say in the fancy mags) You know the stuff about "When Birnam wood shall come to Dunsinane" from Macbeth? Well, that's where's it's from.

Further north a couple of miles, at Inver, is the Hermitage, also owned by the National Trust, a lovely place to walk in the trees along by the river Braan. There's also a nice walk up the hill above Dunkeld.

Next Aberfeldy. the obvious place is the Birks. Do you know your Burns?
"Bonnie lassie, will ye go
will ye go
will ye go
Bonnie lassie, will ye go
tae the Birks o Aberfeldy?"

Mm, I think it loses something in the non-singing.

Nice walks along the riverside. There's a pub in Aberfeldy called the Black Watch. It's just at the junction of the Weem Road and the main road through the town. The Weem Hotel used to be great and it still has some character and is worth a visit, but we had a meal there a couple of years ago and it was a disaster.

Nearby, you have Castle Menzies, which is open to the public and is worth a visit. Lastly on this bit is the Ailean Craggan which has a horrible modern appearance but excellent food, good beer and good crack and company. There's also a small posh eating/shopping place called House of Menzies, which I like a lot.

If, instead of going east to Ben Lawers you go west, you come onto the Tarmachan ridge, which is well worth following. It's a linear walk that takes you down to Killin, so either do the first peak and come back or get a taxi back to your car from Killin. GET A MAP- assuming you can map read. Don't go if you can't. It's reputed to be a relatively easy walk except in winter. There are 3 Munros on the ridge I think. Killin is a strange mixture of awful tourist tat and outdoor shops. There's a lovely view at the Falls of Dochart, at the top end of the town.

On the south side of the Loch you will find the Ardeonaig Hotel- lovely from the outside and reputed to have very good food. It was recently taken over and is meant to be still excellent. There's a nice walk into the hills to the south above it.

Further east you will come to the Crannog centre- well worth a visit; then Kenmore itself. Kenmore is a beautiful planned 18th Century village, with a very old hotel- reputed to be the oldest in Scotland. The food is good without being excellent. Burns is supposed to have stayed here. There's a super craft shop, in a converted Church between the beach at the bottom of the loch and the Hotel, which does soup and sandwiches for a
quick and nutritious lunch.

From the village there are a number of nice walks. You can go through the arch into Taymouth Castle estate- golf course for partners- and wander along the riverside. You can go over the river and turn left into what was the old policies and walk along the loch side and through the old gardens.

It's quite wild when you get past the time share stuff; and you can climb Drummond Hill above the north side of the loch. There are a range of waymarked paths.

Another quite nice linear walk is to come over the hill from Amulree to Kenmore. It's all tarmaced now. I first did it when I was at school and most of the road was a track. But very few people do it. Problem is, you have to leave your car at Amulree. You could arrange to have supper at the Hotel in Kenmore in return for them taking you back for your car, I suppose.

One last walk and pub. Above Pitlochry (Tourist trap warning!) there's a hill called Ben Vrackie, which is a very nice walk. The Moulin Inn would be a lovely place to finish off that walk.

Glen Lyon. Driving west from Weem you come to Fortingall (if you don't take the turn off for Kenmore.)It's a pretty but dull village with a row of thatched cottages. It's famous for 2 things- in the churchyard is a 300 year old Yew tree which is meant to be the oldest tree in Britain; and legend has it that Pontius Pilate was born here. Yes, really! His Da' was meant to have been a legionnaire here when he was born. I haven't been in the hotel for years but it has character and used to do great afternoon teas.

Just past Fortingall you get into the Glen proper. Some people think it's one of the most beautiful in Scotland. I certainly think it's very special. There are lots of lovely walks. There are Munros (mountains over 3000 feet high) on both sides of the Glen. At the top you come first to the hamlet of Brig of Balgie. The Post Office has a tea room. If you go down to the side of the river here you can walk up as far as Meggernie and then come back to the road and home again. Or drive on up to the dam. Lots of places to walk here.

The drive from Brig of Balgie over the hill past Ben Lawers to Loch Tay side is beautiful. Ben Lawers is owned by the National Trust and there is a very good visitor centre which is worth a visit. They own the mountain for the alpine flora. You should be there at a good time to see it. It's a deceptively easy looking mountain. Do have a go; but be careful of the weather. It can be treacherous if it changes on you.

A good day out would be... 8am, leave-drive straight up the A9, passing Killiecrankie and the soldier's leap; House of Bruar (the Harrods of the north), Dalwhinnie (distillery); Kingussie (Ruthven Barracks) Aviemore (architectural nightmare, but good for Cairngorm- you can take the chair lift to the top if you like) Inverness (don't stop- it's not worth it! Lunch on Loch Ness side; stop at castle Urquart; down the Great Glen to Spean Bridge (Commando Monument) then Fort William (armpit of the west) passing Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis; 12 miles south along Loch Linnhe to Ballachulish, over the Bridge and up to Glen Coe- through the Glen of Weeping (National Trust)to Tyndrum(Green Welly shop because you just HAVE to) past Crianlarich and along Glen Dochart to Lix- down to Killin at the other end of Loch Tay- along the south side of the Loch, stopping for dinner at the Ardeonaig and then12 miles to home. Tired but happy.

>various golf courses.
There's masses for the non-golfer at Gleneagles for the non-golfer. The King's course is a killer. Don't settle for second best 9 ie the Queen's or the Prince's. But every town and most villages in Scotland have a golf course- you'll be spoiled for choice. If you want the BEST local golf, go across to
Rosemount outside Blairgowrie and play there.

Sheila will be a GREAT resource. I love Dunkeld and it is a nice area for a base. Are you by any chance staying at the Hilton resort?

While Dunkeld is a good base for touring around -- I personally would NOT drive to Edinburgh. Driving in and out of Edinburgh is a total zoo. You can easily take the train from Dunkeld & Birnam station into the city for a day trip -- and get off at Waverly station directly below Edinburgh castle w/o having to hassle the car/roadworks/diversions/general mess. Taking the train would be much MUCH easier!

Absolutely agree with Janis about not driving into Edinburgh. According to family, it remains a nightmare. Waverly Station is in the middle of anything one would want to see, so train is the way to go.

I agree with that. Should have thought of it. Although I think you have to either change trains or go the long way round by Stirling

Thank you all for the advice to take the train rather than drive to and from and in Edinburgh. Then maybe after flying into Edinburgh, we should take the train to Dunkeld and get a rental car there instead of in Edinburgh?

Yes, we are considering staying at the Hilton resort in Dunkeld. If you have been there, what do you think of it?

Thanks, Sheila, for many suggestions you have made. To answer your question, his family name is Stewart. And your dad's? Don't know the name of the school. The farm was called Mosshead. He worked at Gleneagles golf course as a landscape architect so I would like to go there too. (Coincidentally, I read the 2014 Ryder Cup will be held at Gleneagles Sept. 26-28, 2014.)

>>Then maybe after flying into Edinburgh, we should take the train to Dunkeld and get a rental car there instead of in Edinburgh? <<

Uh - probably not. Dunkeld is a very small place. I f you don't want to rent at EDI (which is easiest) maybe rent a car in Perth.


I haven't stayed at the Hilton but know it pretty well. Haven't been in any of the bedrooms/timeshare units. The grounds/public rooms are very nice.

Do get a night's sleep before renting a car - and remember that Edinburgh in August will be heaving as it's peak tourist time due to a couple of festivals.

Why not have a couple of nights in Edinburgh first (which would mean booking NOW) then hire a car for the drive to Dunkeld via the Fife coast & St Andrews

I agree w/ alanRow -- it would be best (perfect actually) if you flew in to Edinburgh and stayed two nights car-less. That lets you see a lot of the city and get over the jet lag. Then public transport out to EDI to collect a rental car and easy drive up to Dunkeld.

(If you aren't flying in long haul -- ignore the jet lag bit, but 2 days in Edinburgh car-less is still a good idea)

Mmm... would you believe the name is Stewart? But our family farm is Drumlochy. It backs onto the Kings Course at Gleneagles. I'm seeing a Mosshead at dunning? Would that be it? When was this?

It's an easy drive from Edinburgh to Dunkeld. The airport is on the right side to town, so you don't have to drive through.

I know Dunkeld House well, and have stayed in both the hotel and one of the timeshares. It's very nice (unless there's a big conference on, in which case it's a PITA)

Thanks to all for your suggestions and comments. Sorry I did not reply sooner - busy month - but I do appreciate all of it.

Sheila, our family is not related to the Stewarts in Drumlochy. My dad has traced our roots back into the 1800's so I am going by what he said. Lots of Stewarts, right?

Having some trouble getting things booked with the festivals and the Ryder Cup going on in August/September. Continuing to try. Thanks again.